steve fay Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Very nice OzzyO.How is the Turntable coming on any updates?As the turntable is not needed for a while Ozzy is finishing a few other projects. He has been waiting for some bits to complete them for a long time and they have now arrived. I'm sure he will post some pictures of them on here in the near future. I seen the turn table in the flesh just before Christmas and it looks very good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 ok Steve thank you see you next week. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 Hello all, as Steve has said I'm going back to some loco building for a while. But first this. I was talking to Grasshopper last week about drills and reamers, that got me thinking that I could do with some more, so I had a look around and came up with this site "uk drills.co.uk" It looks like they have a nice selection of drills. I was after some bigger drills 2.4 - 3mm and spotted these at approx £2.50 for ten. I've not given them a go yet, but at 12.5p per drill end????????? But back to the modelling. I'm doing two bogies, one for a Mod. Hall and one for a County. The top etch is as received before all the rivets are punched out and the bottom set with the rivets punched out (note the two sizes or rivets). All of the castings laid out for one bogie. The four horn-guides in place, with the front and rear stretchers along side. The front and rear stretchers in place on one side of the frames. The basic S.D.K. bogie assembled on the left and the fully etched one on the right. The one on the left has only the bolster just placed in place to check for fit. The next job is to get all the axle-box's to fit and then check the ride hight of the bogie. I'm also thinking about fitting side control spring to these as well. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Good to see the work bench back in full swing. only problem I wish they were both for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Good to see the work bench back in full swing. only problem I wish they were both for me. Seconded Steve, it's good to have the Master Back, looking forward to seeing your progress OzzyO. ATB. Grasshopper John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Hello all, thanks for the welcome backs. One of the first things after a while from not doing much soldering was I found that my flux brush had decided to give up the ghost. It's one of them things that just happens. The flux eats the metal away, but the bristles are OK. I just get cheap artist ones from Rymans, The Works etc. about £2 for ten different sizes. I did try the ones for kids with the plastic handles and Nylon bristles, a wast of money, they don't hold the flux and if you get them anywhere near any heat the bristles melt. OK for the kids but not us. When I came to check the ride hight of the bogie with the bearings in place the right way up (ie. with the sockets for the spring at the top) the top of the frame is about 1.5mm to high, as you can see by the marked line on the frame in the second photo. This is sorted out by turning the bearings upside down. Something that I had forgotten about. To give the working springs somewhere to live. All I did was drill a hole in the non working springs, but don't drill right through them. The first of the non-working springs in place. All four of them now in place. Modifying the bolster for the A.T.C. pick up, all this is, is a length of 1/16" brass to bring the pick up down to approx 1.5mm above the rail head. This may seem close but it can not go any lower than this (it could be set lower) as this is is governed by the ride hight of the bogie. Checking the hight (or should that be the drop) of the A.T.C. pick up. The large hole in the middle of the side is for the side control spring to live in. The bolsters now in place. You can see the holes that have been drilled for the side control springs that will be fitted later. Not much more work to do now, then it's a clean up and slap some paint on them. In the next fun filled episode I'll be starting on the frames for the County, or trying the bogie under the Mod. Hall frames. Or do you want to see me painting some more wheels? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 " Or do you want to see me painting some more wheels ? " You just crack on and do whatever floats your boat matey, we are all sitting back and enjoying the topic whatever you decide to put up on here . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 What ever you do will be good for me Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Hello all, I'm waiting for a new radiator to turn up for the bathroom, so I thought that I'd do an update for you (some times I don't hear the front door when I'm in the workshop). So what do you get for your money? I would say quit a lot. First the Nickel Silver etches. As you can see there are two sets of cylinder formers, I'm going to have to have a good look at them! The Brass etches. The castings for the cab. The casting for the body / frames. The white metal castings. The resin boiler. The super detailing kit (S.D.K.), this also has the etches and casting for the bogie in it. I have bee asked a few time is it worth spending the extra money on it? I would always say YES. The main frames cut from the etch. As you can see the frames have a bit of a curve to them, this is down to how the metal is rolled in the mill. You can also get this when the metal has a lot of half etching on one side. After a couple of passes through the rolling bars this is what I had, nice flat frames. Getting ready to solder the two of them together. I use the axle holes with top hat bearings in them to make sure that they are lined up. Looking at the black spring clamps I think that I may have to get some new ones. About £2.00 for six off a small tool stall in the market. Soldered together. You can see that I've soldered them with the half etched springs to the inside, I have done it this way so that I can see the half etched lines for the horn-guides when I come to cut them out. The next jobs will be to drill the frames for the pick-ups, brake pivots and a few other things. After that it's cutting the springs off and opening out the horn guide gaps. OzzyO. PS. anyone going to Kendal show tomorrow? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Fascinating to see the changes you make. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 OzzyO What is your method for soldering the two parts together, do you tin the parts first the sweat them together or do you you coat them in solder and use a gentle heat from a blow torch to evenly heat the two sheets until they are together? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 OzzyO What is your method for soldering the two parts together, do you tin the parts first the sweat them together or do you you coat them in solder and use a gentle heat from a blow torch to evenly heat the two sheets until they are together? Pete Hello Pete, all I do is to seam solder along the edges. As all I want to do is clean up the edges and get any holes etc. in the same place on both frames. With the horn guide slots it just means that all I have to do is six cuts instead of twelve cuts. If you sweat them together across the whole of the frames it can be a bit of a bu99er to unsolder them, so in this case less is more. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 ok thanks OzzyO So will you be un soldering and re fitting the parts to the correct sides later each on the correct hand? I can see how this will make a laborious job easier. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 ok thanks OzzyO So will you be un soldering and re fitting the parts to the correct sides later each on the correct hand? I can see how this will make a laborious job easier. Pete Hello Pete, when I have finished the frames both of them on this loco will the same, until I start soldering them together again! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Good to see you back Oz...a 7mm county, yummy. I think I must by pass some stuff on this forum, either that or I was at the back of the class not paying attention again! I appear to have missed who's kit this is? The resin boiler looks good. I always think that with the proportions of the boiler and firebox the County always looks a bit bulldog-ish. Hunckered down and ready to pull anything - obviously not the case - but it does look as though it was ready for trouble. Which County is this to be? Really looking forward to this. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Hello Mike, all, sorry I had missed off on the title that both kits are from J.L.T.R.T.. IIRC the Mod Hall is going to be 7912? and the County is I think 1019? But I'll check the numbers when I get back in to the work shop later. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Yea hay, new radiator fitted in bathroom, with a bit of luck that will mean that my 7mm bits will not shrink down to 2mm bits! As they have done for a week or two. OzzyO. PS. more snow now. About 1/2" at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 OzzyO We had the snow last week it's only fair that you should get some as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Why is it that out of the Four Railway Companies after grouping the GWR is the only one that the Engines did not use Smoke Deflectors on the smoke boxes? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Why is it that out of the Four Railway Companies after grouping the GWR is the only one that the Engines did not use Smoke Deflectors on the smoke boxes? Pete This isn't really my area of expertise, but presumably the blast from the chimney on GWR engines was great enough blow the smoke up clear of the engine and not hinder the drivers vision. All down to how they were designed i suppose. The difference between the A4 and the Manor on this clip (from the favourite railway sounds thread) is very noticable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Hi Pete and Kev, The strong blast on a Western loco is indeed strong enough to lift it clear of the drivers vision more often than not so there was never a requirement for deflectors - well done Kev! Can you imagine a Castle with deflectors? Yuck! A nasty thought indeed...* All the best, Castle * I'll bet someone is reaching for the photoshop as we speak! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Maybe it would look as good as the streamlined King......... LOL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gateman49 Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Explosive blast on the Manors was(is) to do with taking away the jumper top from the blast pipe and reducing the orifice in the early 50's as they were poor steamers originally. Also when starting, big GWR locos have no trailing truck doing nothing but carrying weight so drivers could start in full forward gear without much risk of slipping, could be to with Stephenson link motion too on the GW two cylinder locos. Sharper exhaust also means more back pressure in the cylinders so it's a trade off against efficiency Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hello all, another thing about ex G.W.R. locos was that the chimneys were quit tall, which gave a lot of free air around the chimney. When you look at most classes that were fitted with deflectors (forget most of the ex S.R. locos) the chimney is quit short, so it does not have as much free air around it and most of them were three or four cylinder locos. Where the blast is not as sharp as a two cylinder loco. Back onto the build. You are supplied with two sets of frame spacers, one set for O gauge fine (I'm using these at 25.4mm) and some for scale seven. At about 26mm. The holes drilled and the dummy springs removed. I have not drilled the 0.5mm holes for the fixing points for the safety chains just yet as the ping factor on small drills is quit high when drilling through two thickness's of N/S. The two front horn guide cut outs cut out. I like to leave the rear axle hole as a datum for setting the hight of the frames and to make sure about the position of the axles from one fixed datum. The two frames now split. As you can see in some parts the solder has run the full depth of the frames and in other parts it has just stayed around the edges. The frames with the rear top hats in place and the four main spacers formed to shape and laid out. The frames with the spacers in place from above and below. In the below shot you can see the 0.4mm brass wire that I will attach the safety chain to. The same as above but with a set of cylinder formers in place. In the kit you get two types of these, these are for the fully etched slide bars, as I will be using the cast slide bars I will not be using this set of formers. The next job will be sorting out the horn guides and fitting them. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 What are "safety chains"? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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