ozzyo Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Hello all, I got the primer on the tender on Mon. or Tus. But when I looked at it the coal raves were misshaped, so it has been standing in a bath of cellulose thinners for about 24hrs. To try and remove the etch primer, when I looked at it this morning about 8 o'clock some of the primer had come off but not all of it, so it's out with a stiff brush and give it a scrub. I'm going to replace the ones in the kit with some scratch built ones out of N/S. Then fit them on as I would do on a J.L.T.R.T. kit. That is with small up-stands, like in this photo. The up-stands will be made out of N/S. I think that some of the problems could have been caused by having to solder two long thin lengths of brass together (IIRC 10 thou.). All will be sorted before it's delivered to the customer, by next week I hope! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 I sometimes wonder why we as modellers get so picky about having the flat bits straight and smooth. As when you look a tender or loco, many of the so called flat parts are dished dented or bowed, anything but straight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Ah yes, the perennial question: HOW do we make it look real, not just badly modelled? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Hello all, in one of my last posts I said that I was not happy with the coal raves. So when OzzyO is not happy with something drastic measures are called for and this is what happened. When I was looking at my N/S stock I though that I had some that would be about right for the job, but bu99er me it was 1mm too low. So an order has been sent off to Eileen's Emporium for some 10 X 0.3mm N/S. I may get the up-stands in place later today, but they can be a bit prone to damage without the coal raves to go in place, after they are fitted. To get the etch primer off the tender it was left to soak in cellulose thinners for about 2 days and it still needed a scrub to remove some of it. At least I didn't have to remove it all. To help disguise the joint between the new and old I'm going to grit blast the edge to get it to a feather edge and hope that will work. Then it's going to be sorting out any ripples in the tender sides. Onwards and upwards, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Ouch! That's nearly a rebuild!!! still, if you don't like it, get it off and start again. I have added the boiler and firebox (round-topped, so all one peice) and the smokebox to the Loch. I am impressed with the design of the boiler etch using curved slots and tabs for alignment between the smoke box and cab front. I'll post some pictures soon on the 'Loch' thread. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Hello all, well I did fit the up-stands. The up-stands as first fitted. Then bent up to vertical. All I now have to do is wait for the N/S from Eileen's, so I'll be getting on with the backhead or priming the loco body next. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hello all, while waiting for the filler primer and N/S, I had been thinking about how to make sure that I kept the sides flat when rubbing the filler primer down. Two cheap nail emery boards glued to lolly sticks and some 400 grit wet'n'dry. Then I thought how am I going to hold them and keep them flat. What I came up with was this, a nice straight lolly stick stuck along it's back, this should also help keep them flat. While all this was setting I decided to grit-blast the loco body again as all the bits are on, or so I thought. I've still to fit some small bits in the cab. I have now started on the backhead. I have had to file two rebates to clear the inside square splashers. When I got it to fit, it turns out the the backhead is tailer than the outside firebox. You can see what I'm going to take off the bottom, this is still not enough but I can't take any more off, as the pivot for the fire hole doors would have been removed. I would have put some more photos up but the batters have run down and are on charge. The photo may look a bit odd as I took it with the bottom to the left. OzzyO. EDIT for PS. This is how the photo should look. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Hello all, the filler primer and the N/S turned up today. So it's back onto the tender. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hello all, I decided to get most of the brass castings onto the backhead before I started on the coal raves. When I came to drill out the steam fountain for the pipes (wires) , found these pips where the drilled holes should be on three of the fittings. The two blanks soldered together and the template for the coal raves. Getting ready to solder them all together and soldered together. One end cut out and one end cleaned up. All three now separated, on the middle one I wanted to get as much 145 deg. solder off one side as poss. This I did by getting a short length hot then wiping on my jeans (don't do this on any thing but cotton), then a bit more and so on until I had got most of it off. Adding the beading, first the top edge, starting from the middle and working out (this is a tip that I picked up in the M.R.C. when Guy William's [R.I.P.] was doing a series on scratch building), Then the top curves. Then the middle curves. After a bit of a clean up this is what you should have. I am now thinking about adding some beading around the top flat bit of the tender so the beading on the raves won't stand out as much. Now that could be fun. If (when) I do it I will start at the back and work my way around the tender. The front of the tender should be a lot of fun! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hopefully they will remain straught enough for you this time. The backhead castings look very nice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hopefully they will remain straught enough for you this time. The backhead castings look very nice. Hello N15, they better had bl00dy do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hello all, in one of my last posts I said that I may put some beading around the top of the flat part of the tender, as some of you will know when I get an idea like that, it normally happens and so it did. This length of the beading is about 14" long. I use tinned copper wire for jobs like these. As the wire comes on a drum the first job is to straighten it, this I do by pulling it with two pairs of pliers. The job then is not bend it. I started in the middle of the back. To help keep the wire in line with the top of the side, I have a very sophisticated tool, a lolly stick. Does any one know if Eileen's have got the spare pair of hands in stock yet? From the side, you can see that some bits need a bit of tidying up. You can make out the dips & highs in this photo. The front end has yet to be finished. The same as above but with flash. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Metalsmiths now do some lovely half round wire. I have .7 and .8mm but I think there are others too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Half-round brass wire is also available from Eileen's. ISTR a discussion a couple of years ago about using wire drawing plates to make you own half-round, square, etc. sections from normal round brass. Trouble was, though, that I never could find a source of plates with small enough sizes for my needs (0.5mm and below). Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hello Pete & Nick, one of the problems of using half round is that you have to keep the flat face flat to the body. That creates it's own problems when you have to form a tight bend. Like at the top of the coal raves. Another one is that the brass will have been drawn so will be work hardened. So to get it to bend you would have to anneal the brass, that could make it so soft that working with it would have it's own problems. At the front of the tender it has it's own problem, you start with a 90deg. bend going onto the top of the flare that has a curve going to the body this also has a curve running to the front of the tender. So at the moment I think that I will stick to the copper wire. If I find a cheap draw plate for small half round I may give it a go. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Half round drawplates are either expensive or useless. The 'cheapskate' way of producing half round wire is to solder (silver solder preferred) two round wires together and draw the pair through a round drawplate together. You may have to hold a blade on the feed side of the plate to stop the wires twisting together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I think I'll stick with clamping a piece of round wire to a length of hardwood with a shallow cut in it then filing one side flat... Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Half-round brass wire is also available from Eileen's. ISTR a discussion a couple of years ago about using wire drawing plates to make you own half-round, square, etc. sections from normal round brass. Trouble was, though, that I never could find a source of plates with small enough sizes for my needs (0.5mm and below). You are going to like this, but not a lot.......... http://www.hswalsh.com/itemdetail.aspx?i=TD951&c=392 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I think I'll stick with clamping a piece of round wire to a length of hardwood with a shallow cut in it then filing one side flat... Nick Good way of doing handrail knobs and pipe support brackets. Something I have used for many years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 You are going to like this, but not a lot.......... http://www.hswalsh.c...x?i=TD951&c=392 A snip at just over £10 per hole Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 You are going to like this, but not a lot.......... http://www.hswalsh.c...x?i=TD951&c=392 Hello Bill, and that for the round ones. In the size that would be about the best for us about £45, but how much would a half round one be?????? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 £48.90 + VAT, but it only goes down to 1mm http://www.hswalsh.com/Drawplate-Half-Round-20-Hole-3mm-to-1mm-.aspx?i=TD421&c=393 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 £48.90 + VAT, but it only goes down to 1mm http://www.hswalsh.c...x?i=TD421&c=393 Thanks Bill, well that's not much use to us. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Thats why I suggested using two wires in a round plate..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 Thats why I suggested using two wires in a round plate..... Hello Bill, well done on been the 700th reply to the thread. It may 701 on your reply but it doesn't count the first post. Maybe I'm being thick today, but how would that give you a half round wire, as you would still have the round bit where the two wires are soldered together. Could you do a quick sketch for us? I can see that the inside rad. will be different to the out side, so would you use a larger wire than what you want to end up with and pull it through the plate a few times getting smaller all the time? Or are you saying to use square wire to start with, as in mess# 693 you did say to solder two round wires together. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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