barry_yardley Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Make that 5 - I look for updates everyday - I must be sad :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Me 6! Well actually there's 34 members who've clicked the "Follow this topic" button and plus probably many others who look in. Keep up the great work Ozzy. Here's to the next 37000 hits! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_t Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 I hope you don't mind a little diversion. I'm on the verge of getting a grit blasting cabinet and I wondered what type/source of grit you use? On machine mart's website there are various grades and types, but not really an indication on what to use on brass. I'll need to get a better compressor than I have as well, as the one I have for my airbrush isn't up to the job. Grrr.. Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 I hope you don't mind a little diversion. I'm on the verge of getting a grit blasting cabinet and I wondered what type/source of grit you use? On machine mart's website there are various grades and types, but not really an indication on what to use on brass. I'll need to get a better compressor than I have as well, as the one I have for my airbrush isn't up to the job. Grrr.. Thanks in advance. Not a problem Richard, I'm using aluminum oxide that I got off Ebay, IIRC its 180 grit.Keep a eye out at Aldi they do a compressor for about £100 that is spot on for the job. You will need one that will deliver ten cubic feet of air per minute. HTH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_t Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Thanks for all that. The cabinet I'm planning on getting is from Chester Tools, as it's on special at the mo. They state that the compressor needs 5cfm, so I was looking at the Ranger 24 from Machine Mart - which is oil free, which would suit a spray gun, should I ever get one. I was looking at more "powerful" ones (not sure that's the right word), but they don't seem to be oil free. I'll keep an eye for the Aldi ones (I think there was one on special recently) I'm an avid Aldi special watcher - I'm especially after a table saw! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 Hello Richard, forgot to mention in my last post to get a water trap and fit it as close as possible to the cabinet as seen in this photo, as liquid is one thing that gritblasting does not like, this one came from Machine Mart and as the pressure drops auto drains its self, I run mine at about 60psi. But if you start at about 45psi to see how it performs and work from there. It also helps if the compressor has a reservoir tank As you can see I'm getting a bit of oil carried over but the traps doing it's job and keeping it out of the cabinet. For what it's worth I would make sure about the cabinet air requirements as 5cfm is half of what mine needs. Once you've got it going you will be surprised at what it will do. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Another loyal follower here! That black primer is fantastic and the link to eBay very useful indeed. Keep up the marvellous work and very helpful hints. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 Hello all, thanks for the replies it's nice to know that this thread is appreciated. Back onto the build. Forming the water scoop and handbrake support brackets Formed to shape, spot what I have done wrong. In the end it didn't matter as the black hole opened up and nicked one out of the tweezers. So do I fit one, I reckoned that would look wrong so I didn't fit any if it starts to jar I will have to get out the piercing saw I'm not fitting the sandbox's but wanted to see how they looked Onto the steps now, as these are half and full etches I like to score the folds with a Stanley knife, one of the scores may look a bit out but in real life it's OK. To give yous an idea of the size the squares on the cutting mat are 10mm The first folds done and the last two OzzyO. PS. I'm thinking of installing lead shielding to the workshop to try and stop the black holes. Do yous think it may work? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 PS. I'm thinking of installing lead shielding to the workshop to try and stop the black holes. Do yous think it may work? I do not think anything will stop attraction of nickel and brass into a black hole. I think it is an anti matter problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 The order for the 25 tons of lead has now been canceled, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 That black primer is fantastic and the link to eBay very useful indeed. I ordered some at the weekend and am awaiting it's arrival. I need the weather to improve again though because I have to spray outside. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 The order for the 25 tons of lead has now been canceled, I know brass kits tend to be lightweight, but I think that is overdoing it just a little. As a guess was the fold up wrong? For once one of those annoying folds that are with the half-etch on the outside? The workshop carpet is a veritable mine of spare parts which usually can easily be found by the sound of them rattling up the nozzle of the hoover. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 The workshop carpet is a veritable mine of spare parts which usually can easily be found by the sound of them rattling up the nozzle of the hoover. The parts are always easy to find on the floor or in the carpet, just look for it after fitting the replacement you have just made!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted April 4, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 4, 2012 I'm really looking forward to dropping something on the newly laid light beige laminate flooring in the study, the plan is a quick sweep with a broom and errant part should be located ...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 As a guess was the fold up wrong? For once one of those annoying folds that are with the half-etch on the outside? Hello Kenton, all, I reckon that I got the top of the bracket to the bottom, as I think that the small blank thats on one side of the etch should go to the top. Anyhow back to the build. Most of the fittings on the back of the tender, just the handrails to go on. Starting on the flared corners. I like to solder a length of 0.5mm copper wire around the top corner, this I find help the solder to flow to the ends of the fingers. The corner now filled with solder and the top trued up. The first side of the copper wire filed off, the next job will be to file off the other leg. The outside of the flare getting cleaned up, the next jobs will be to cleanup the inside of the flares and fit the hand rails. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Hello Kenton, all, I reckon that I got the top of the bracket to the bottom, as I think that the small blank thats on one side of the etch should go to the top. Anyhow back to the build. Most of the fittings on the back of the tender, just the handrails to go on. Starting on the flared corners. I like to solder a length of 0.5mm copper wire around the top corner, this I find help the solder to flow to the ends of the fingers. The corner now filled with solder and the top trued up. The first side of the copper wire filed off, the next job will be to file off the other leg. The outside of the flare getting cleaned up, the next jobs will be to cleanup the inside of the flares and fit the hand rails. OzzyO. Flares are always a nightmare to do. Even when suppied with cast corners. I did read somewhere about the way to make them as a seperate piece so that they bend as one. It gave you all the calculations to work out the shape. Then it was soldered on, I have not tried this yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 I like to solder a length  of 0.5mm copper wire around the top corner, this I find help the solder to flow to the ends of the fingers. An interesting idea and worth filing away in a tiny corner of my brain for next time. Though with all that solder flowing there appears to be a loss of rivet detail - difficult. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 An interesting idea and worth filing away in a tiny corner of my brain for next time. Though with all that solder flowing there appears to be a loss of rivet detail - difficult. Hello Kenton, the photo was taken before the inside was cleaned up. I'll post a photo of the cleaned up inside in a day or two. I don't mind losing a few rivets in the back corners as long as the outside corners look OK. The other thing is that the gritblasting will remove some as well, but I have to be a bit careful not to take the solder out of the corners, as the solder is only about 10thou thick. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Hello all, this is going to be a long post so get the kettle on. The inside of the flair after the fist clean up, still a bit of cleaning up to do. The finished rear of the tender, the buffer heads and coupling will be added after the primer has gone on. Side view of the tender. Front view of the tender, I think that I can live without the stanchion supports. Inside view . When I came to fit the frames they didn't want to sit down fully. So after a bit of head scratching I realised that the top beam of the support bracket was a bit to wide. This was the answer, it may look a bit drastic but it had to be done. All back together now, along with a small length of 3X2? L brass. Sorry about the quality of the second photo. Result. Onto the draw bar. You have three options for this, as normal none of them were the length that I wanted. So I used the longest one. When I cut it out I left the two tabs holding the two draw bars together and folded them over, as the loco has a 6BA screw for the draw bar I soldered two 8BA washers over the hole and drilled them out 6BA clear. The next job was to measure the centres of the draw bar screws and drill the second hole. This also had two 8BA washers soldered over it. The finished job. The etches before and after, you do end up with a lot of spares, all will go into the spares box. The next jobs are, to check that I've fitted all the parts then a quick wash in Cillit Bang (red top), gritblasting, ultrasonic cleaning and then get the primer on. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Hello all, two posts in one day, is OzzyO going mad? As you know I'm going to start gritblasting the tender. So I thought that I'd have a look at the grit-blaster gun as I have not checked it for a while. When I did this is what I found. It may not be much, but the drill shank is 4.5mm. When the ceramic nozzle was fitted to the gun it was 4mm, This is only after about two years of use. The front end of the nozzle showing even more worn away this is with the same 4.5mm drill. So it looks like I'm going to have to get some more nozzles. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Worn, maybe, but does it make much difference to the ability of the gun to work? Perhaps not so fine a shot and perhaps higher pressure required? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Hello Kenton, all, it has seemed to take more time to do the same jobs, the finish is still the same. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Flares are always a nightmare to do. Even when suppied with cast corners. I did read somewhere about the way to make them as a seperate piece so that they bend as one. It gave you all the calculations to work out the shape. Then it was soldered on, I have not tried this yet. I don't have any experience of doing flares but I do know a clockmaker and I asked him how he would do it. He said he would make a press-tool out of two pieces of hardwood, anneal the brass and form the corner using the tool. This would give him the corner but with a lot of surplus material; this surplus would be then cut away leaving just the corner. Sorry if this is irrelevant. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 You don't need to two pieces of wood for the press tool. You have one piece of wood and a length of steel rod slightly smaller in diameter than the flare. Then you hammer the rod into the wood to form a grove and finish by hammering the annealed brass into the grove using the rod as a former. Care is needed to ensure the flare is even, but it is impossible to over bend the brass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Yes, all that would be fine if you were scratchbuilding but not exactly "normal" practice for the kit build. I think the suggested addition of wire as described above is far more appropriate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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