ozzyo Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 Wonderful! Almost makes me wish I modeled in 7mm. You can start, the first thing is to clear out your joint account and make it all your own. Then explain that away, Ebay, got robbed, lost card, Etc. But don't let the boss see any big packets arriving at the house. Then you may? get away with it??????????????? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 You enter lots of railway raffles and when they arrive you say "Look what I won in the raffle dear!!!" She might smell a rat after a while though!! Good luck Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 Hello Sandy, so you win piles of stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Hello all, a few mess. back I was asked about how I do my wheels, the first part is to metal black the rims and the back of the rims, after that I just spray the wheels with a black etching paint. The first job is to remove the paint off the wheel tread, for this I use a piece of tool steel that has been ground to the approx. shape of the wheel tread. This is held in the hand just below the centre line of the wheel to remove most of the paint. After this the wheel tread is cleaned up with a Gearixflex (it's a bit like a track rubber) block, this just cleans up the surface of the wheel tread and puts a bit of a shine on them. For safety I took the two photos above with the lathe stopped, this shows what the wheel looks like at approx. 750rpm. So you may understand why the above photos were taken with the lathe stopped. Yes I do work with my hands near to the lathe chuck at these speeds. But if your not confident and competent to do this DON'T. I have been working with M/Cs for over 25 years but you still have to be very careful when working like this. If in doubt DON'T DO IT. If you're going to have a go, REMOVE ALL YOUR RINGS AND WATCHES. It's also a good idea not to have a long sleeved shirt on as well. Getting back to fitting the vac. pump, the first job is to sort out it's position. To do this I loose fit the pump rod in the cross head and then find out how far back this will travel. Then lock the pump in position. This is what it looks like after the pump is in position. the front of the pump rod has still to be cut to length. After cutting to length, you can also see how close the rear of the cross head pump bracket comes to the front of the pump body. This is showing how far out the cross head goes. This is at about mid stoke, the bottom of the pump shows that some cleaning up will have to be done. Who has nicked my pump? Front and two back views of the pump before cleaning up. The back has to be cleaned up a bit to clear the front crank-pin nut. I'm not sure if I have a photo of this, If not all you have to do is to remove anything from the bracket below the centre line of the pump. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Ozzy0 You have added oil boxes to the front of your modified hall's footplate. Most photos I have looked at don't seem to have them. Is there any lists or timescales to which ones had or did not have the, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Hello Sandy, so you win piles of stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. That's what she thinks! No good with the lottery though. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Hello all, For safety I took the two photos above with the lathe stopped, this shows what the wheel looks like at approx. 750rpm. So you may understand why the above photos were taken with the lathe stopped. Yes I do work with my hands near to the lathe chuck at these speeds. But if your not confident and competent to do this DON'T. I have been working with M/Cs for over 25 years but you still have to be very careful when working like this. If in doubt DON'T DO IT. If you're going to have a go, REMOVE ALL YOUR RINGS AND WATCHES. It's also a good idea not to have a long sleeved shirt on as well. OzzyO. And do not forget to remove the chuck key !! . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
asa Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Your work never fails to amaze me Ozzy,if I could build locos half as good I'd be happy.And as far as lathes go I could probably manage to wrap myself round a turntable never mind a lathe! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Ozzy0 You have added oil boxes to the front of your modified hall's footplate. Most photos I have looked at don't seem to have them. Is there any lists or timescales to which ones had or did not have the, Hello all, to reply to N15class the mec. Lub. box's were introduced on 7910 so the last 20 locos of the class received them from new. IIRC two or three locos had them fitted as an experiment in the 1930s / 40s? I'm not sure about the numbers but I'm sure that someone on here will let us know. Going back to the lathe, I remember going to the Manchester shows and the late Sid Stubbs would be demonstrating lathe work etc. shirt sleeves rolled up but he would have a bl00dy tie hanging loose. It my have been a clip on one but not the best example to set. asa, you may not have realised what you have said about wrapping yourself around a turntable. As there is a type of lathe that is known as a turntable (we called them roundabouts) lathe. The chuck (more correctly table) is mounted horizontal to the floor so that the turning axis is vertical, one of the big ones in the (ship) yard had interchangeable tables from about 6' up to about 30' (foot) in dia. IIRC it's max. hight was about 12'. At times when the machine was in use you would see the men walking around on the table to keep an eye on the M/c tool. Even at this size the jobs would still be clamped down (poss. 50 or 60 tons). The M/C would still work down to a couple of thou. The job could expand more than this due to the temp. changes between the day and night shifts. OzzyO. PS. best of luck Wales today and best of luck for England tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 That reminds me of when I went to buy my little Emco Compact 5 and the milling machine from a machine tool seller in the centre of Gainsborough, where is now Marshall's yard. Nettleham Machine Tools? He showed me lathes bigger than my house, milling maqchines you could drive a lorry under, and he even asked if I wanted to see his helicopter? I said yes,...expecting a little two man job, and walked through a door to find a Sea King being renovated....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Hello all, just back in from the MRC after a night of wood butchery. So I thought I'd give you a quick up date on the build. The coupling rods that I'm going to be using, please don't ask who makes them as I don't know. The outside of the rods at the top and inside at the bottom. The same again showing the forked joint. The forked joint pined together, the only down side to these rods is that no connecting pin is supplied with them. From above top and below bottom. Fitted to the frames for the first time, one very small tight spot to sort out. A bit of running should sort this out. Checking for clearance behind the con rod. It's a bit tight at the moment but for these test fits I'm using 10BA full nuts, which are a bit thicker that the scale nuts I will be using later. The drive for the speedo, this is driven by a small crank with a pin that engages in the slot. How the real thing is driven. The front sand pipes in place. These are a bit of a compromise as the real ones run straight from the sand box to just in front of the wheel. But on the model you end having to do some thing like this to miss the rear bogie wheels, or not fit them at all. The mounting bracket for the P.C.B. that all the pick-up wires will run to. As this loco is to be D.C.C. fitted, the chip will also fit on this bracket. One thing about fitting the chip to this is that it gives it a nice amount of air around it as well. I hope to have the loco finished for the weekend! So work for tomorrow, clean the frames and bogie, clean up the wheel treads, mask and paint the frames and bogie, cab fittings and get the boiler mounted to the footplate. So it maybe a long day. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 So work for tomorrow, clean the frames and bogie, clean up the wheel treads, mask and paint the frames and bogie, cab fittings and get the boiler mounted to the footplate. So it maybe a long day. OzzyO. And last but not least, lots of photos for us . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 OzzyO How much side slop to use a better word is there in the rods to allow for running over curved sections of track? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 The second pic, of the rods jointed, taken from the top, would seem to show a reasonable amount. They really do look the business, they look as if they have been milled? SLIGHTLY off topic, has anyone used Laurie Griffin cast n/s rods? They aren't cheap at £40 a set, but do they look better than the etched ones supplied in most kits? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Hello all, Martyn, I hope this lot will do for you. Pete, I don't leave a lot of play on the rods, only about 6 thou on the end of the bushes. JeffP, the rods have been milled and a very nice job has been made of them. But back onto the build, a couple of photos of the loco wheels, axles and rods, I'm putting two photos up one with no flash and one with flash. Getting ready to start masking the frames, these are some of the tools etc. that I will use. Forgot these from the last photo, all I use these for is to blank off the inside of the axle holes. The frames after there last clean and before masking off, And after masking off, I tend to use the red "plastic" masking tape for a lot of the jobs as it tends to leave a nice clean line with no bled under. The frames in the spray booth, I do tend to keep some cans of paint in the booth as it tends to keep them at the right temperature for spraying. The only heat in the booth is provide by the lights. The bogie all painted up and wheeled up. You may notice that some parts of the rear spring has gone missing, this is due to this part of the spring catching on the vac. cylinder between the frames. As it looks now you may think that you will notice that these parts are missing. You do not see these parts are missing when the bogie is fitted to the frames. Most of the last parts fitted into the cab. I would have fitted these parts before the roof was fitted but I had no option but fit them now. About the only parts to fit now are the backhead and the fall-plate. The fall-plate will be fun! as I'll have to drill some holes for the wires that the fall-plate will pivot on. Getting the backhead in place is always good fun as well. Do you want to see me putting all the fittings on the backhead? Yahoo, the boiler is now in place. Just a bit of cleaning up to do now. I screw and glue the boiler in place using epoxy at the cab end and at the saddle. For this I tend to use a type that sets in about 30 minutes as this gives a bit of time to get all the pipes and other bits in place. Fitting the front top lamp bracket, for some reason this was a right pain n the ar$e. All I normally do is super glue in place and then drill and pin it in place. After about an hour I got to this stage. You can see that the top pin is cut close to the bracket but the lower one has to be cut back. The next fun part is going to get the pins flush to the bracket. I would normally do this before the handrail is in place. I think that I'll use a big grinding wheel and the Dremmel, or more like the Dremmel and a small diamond point all I will have to watch out for is keeping the heat down so as not to brake the super glued joint. This side of the loco looks so plain compared to the drivers side. What am I doing tomorrow, some more painting and getting the pick-ups sorted out. The motor will need the second end shaft removed, after that it should just be some test running. I hope. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 This is looking good, do you paint the inside of the frames red? I was hoping I would have mine hall ready for the later part of March so my daughter could take it to the UK for me. But I am still waiting for castings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Very Nice OzzyO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Hello Matey, Very nice and thanks for all the tips, you never know when they might come in handy. I would like a blow by blow on the backhead as most GWR cabs were similar ( he said tongue in cheek ) well right hand drive anyway. And I know it's only a small but fiddly thing, but can you show how you go about fitting the fall-plate. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Hello all, N15class, I don't paint the inside of the frames red on most of my builds as it can help show up things like pick-ups , wires etc. it also highlights if there is no valve gear fitted. On a lot of G.W.R. locos there is so little of it on view it's just not worth the effort to fit it. Martyn, fitting the fail-plate is the next job on the loco body so I'll try and get some good photos for you. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Coming on a treat mate. Can't wait to see it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Superb stuff as ever OzzyO! Particularly like the little brackets for the front numberplate. So many people just glue the numberplate on to the smokebox and it just doesn't look right to me. Are these soldered or SG'd on? Jon F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
asa Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Looking great Ozzy,the level of detail on these kits is stunning. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 I just love reading these builds. If anyone can motivate me to start a build, it will be one of these threads. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 I just love reading these builds. If anyone can motivate me to start a build, it will be one of these threads. Jeff, I am confused ( no change there ) but i've seen all ( well a lot ) of your informative posts not just on this thread, am i to believe you you do not build these marvelous pieces of Engineering magnificence. Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted February 13, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2013 Superb stuff as ever OzzyO! Particularly like the little brackets for the front numberplate. So many people just glue the numberplate on to the smokebox and it just doesn't look right to me. Are these soldered or SG'd on? Jon F. Yes - they impressed me as well. Not quite so easy in 4mm scale mind you but something akin to them can be done and they make the numberplates look far better Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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