Kernow Adams O2

[Oldddudders]

Removing the body is going to allow me to determine the best configuration. For example, removing the circuit board, hardwiring the decoder and adding a "stay alive" can best be done with the body off, as it will allow shortening all the wires to make more space in the boiler. Alternatively, putting the chip and "stay alive" in the bunker also requires removal of the body as many wires need to be re-routed. One benefit of this option would be to free some space for a slug of lead which would improve adhesion. I have experienced no problems with the loco on my track - a "stay alive" is merely an insurance policy and i fit them in every loco I can.   Right now I am puzzled by the wiring colours to the circuit board which look like three blacks, an orange and a red!   And no wiring diagram supplied......  So that's another question - which wire is which?

 

Since the model is manufactured for Kernow by DJM, and DJ himself is extremely visible on RMweb, perhaps an enquiry offline via PM might help you?

[Peter Bedding]

Since the model is manufactured for Kernow by DJM, and DJ himself is extremely visible on RMweb, perhaps an enquiry offline via PM might help you?

 

I received an immediate reply from Dave, to a very noddy technical question, on Dec 25. That is commitment to one's customer base well over the normal call of duty. What's more, the answer proved valid, and my K2015 completed my Christmas chip-fixing task without further ado. So my first brace of O2s became fully operational. With tongue in cheek I then enquired about the gate-stock, and DJ's sense of humour was un-dented.

 

PB

[ChrisG]

I received an immediate reply from Dave, to a very noddy technical question, on Dec 25. That is commitment to one's customer base well over the normal call of duty. What's more, the answer proved valid, and my K2015 completed my Christmas chip-fixing task without further ado. So my first brace of O2s became fully operational. With tongue in cheek I then enquired about the gate-stock, and DJ's sense of humour was un-dented.

 

PB

 

 

Since the model is manufactured for Kernow by DJM, and DJ himself is extremely visible on RMweb, perhaps an enquiry offline via PM might help you?

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I had the same idea,  wrote this morning  and received a helpful and prompt reply. Marvellous service beyond what one normally expects..

 

 

Chris  

[JimHearne]

Thanks for the suggestion. I had the same idea,  wrote this morning  and received a helpful and prompt reply. Marvellous service beyond what one normally expects..

 

 

Chris  

 

Hi Chris,

Would you be able to share the reply incase others (including myself) have the same problem ?

 

Many thanks,

 

Jim

[AJ'S]

I asked him the same question and the reply was as per the instructions and why do you want to get the body off.

I want to do something similar to you but can't get the body off. Also what happens if it goes wrong you cannot get inside to fix it. I have had no reply from Kernow.

[ChrisG]

I asked him the same question and the reply was as per the instructions and why do you want to get the body off.

I want to do something similar to you but can't get the body off. Also what happens if it goes wrong you cannot get inside to fix it. I have had no reply from Kernow.

 

It can be done: there is a photo on the YouChoos website showing a body removed (see link below). From what I can make out from the photo, the smokebox is held in place by a couple of lugs right at the front. This however does not explain the degree of resistance I was experiencing when attempting to remove the body. The instructions by the way, do say you can do it, but be careful. Based on my experience with locos of this wheel arrangement you need as much weight as you can get into the front of the loco, for which body removal and re-wiring is a pre-requisite. Whilst most people will no doubt be happy to do nothing more than plug and play, this is a little bit disappointing for someone who wants to do things differently:- 

 

http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Resource.asp?L1=Guides&Item=KernowO2

[paulr1949]

Further to earlier posts about back to back problems, I am currently experiencing some issues with my model of 30182. When I ran it in on the rolling road with DC power it seemed to be ok, just a few jitters in 30 mins each way. I have since fitted it with DCC.

Having put it on the layout today to check that the S&W coupling bars I have fitted were ok, I found that the loco would go for a bit, hesitate, go again, hesitate, go again and then in most cases stop. Both directions.

 

I checked the back to backs and they were very close to 14.5mm - possibly 14.6 and managed to adjust them a little. I then put the loco in my "wheel cleaning cradle" and tried a cleaning brush - this worked fine as long as the brush was held to the pony-truck wheels, but it exhibited similar problems when touching the drivers. There is (as has been mentioned) an awful lot of slop in the axles.

 

(Un)fortunately, my layout is at an exhibition this coming weekend, and at the moment there is no way I can use the O2. Does anybody have any suggestions for anything else I can try?

 

Thanks in advance

[tender]

It can be done: there is a photo on the YouChoos website showing a body removed (see link below). From what I can make out from the photo, the smokebox is held in place by a couple of lugs right at the front. This however does not explain the degree of resistance I was experiencing when attempting to remove the body. The instructions by the way, do say you can do it, but be careful. Based on my experience with locos of this wheel arrangement you need as much weight as you can get into the front of the loco, for which body removal and re-wiring is a pre-requisite. Whilst most people will no doubt be happy to do nothing more than plug and play, this is a little bit disappointing for someone who wants to do things differently:- 

 

http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Resource.asp?L1=Guides&Item=KernowO2

 

It can be done: there is a photo on the YouChoos website showing a body removed (see link below). From what I can make out from the photo, the smokebox is held in place by a couple of lugs right at the front. This however does not explain the degree of resistance I was experiencing when attempting to remove the body. The instructions by the way, do say you can do it, but be careful. Based on my experience with locos of this wheel arrangement you need as much weight as you can get into the front of the loco, for which body removal and re-wiring is a pre-requisite. Whilst most people will no doubt be happy to do nothing more than plug and play, this is a little bit disappointing for someone who wants to do things differently:- 

 

http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Resource.asp?L1=Guides&Item=KernowO2

 

The YouChoos link shows a SugarCube 7 being fitted but theres room for the next size up (SugarCube9 equivalent) with still space to spare. Given time i hope to get in the same Zimo 25x15 that I've fitted to my BWT.

 

I've not found any additional weight necessary for my current coaching stock of up to 4 Hornby Maunsel's, just as well as the boiler space is filled with a Zimo Sound decoder (MX649N 6pin direct plugin).

 

Further to earlier posts about back to back problems, I am currently experiencing some issues with my model of 30182. When I ran it in on the rolling road with DC power it seemed to be ok, just a few jitters in 30 mins each way. I have since fitted it with DCC.

Having put it on the layout today to check that the S&W coupling bars I have fitted were ok, I found that the loco would go for a bit, hesitate, go again, hesitate, go again and then in most cases stop. Both directions.

 

I checked the back to backs and they were very close to 14.5mm - possibly 14.6 and managed to adjust them a little. I then put the loco in my "wheel cleaning cradle" and tried a cleaning brush - this worked fine as long as the brush was held to the pony-truck wheels, but it exhibited similar problems when touching the drivers. There is (as has been mentioned) an awful lot of slop in the axles.

 

(Un)fortunately, my layout is at an exhibition this coming weekend, and at the moment there is no way I can use the O2. Does anybody have any suggestions for anything else I can try?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Did it hesitate, go, hesitate from the moment you fitted the DCC decoder or has that recently developed? Does it do this at all speeds or just at low speed? I found quite a bit of CV tweeking was necessary to get it to run smoothly at slow/very slow speeds, something to do with the coreless motor I suspect.

[colney123]

Pleased to say 207 turned up yesterday and runs well , just wondered what chips people are using ?.

[tender]

Pleased to say 207 turned up yesterday and runs well , just wondered what chips people are using ?.

 

 

Zimo MX649N for sound and Zimo MX621N for non-sound. Both 6pin pluggable.

[DJM Dave]

Hi Chris,

And in fact everyone else with an O2  model.

 

I've spoken to China about the body removal, and as is the norm with these things, i have an answer to the body removal issue from them and i paste here.................

 

In production, the body is not glued to the chassis while the pipes are.  After removing the screws, the body can be tilted slightly, before breaking the pipes (but is less than 45 degrees).  Actually, this model is not designed for opening the body.  If for any reasons it has to be opened (e.g. repairing, or replacing parts inside), the two pipes will have to be cut (at where they meet the chassis).  After repairing, if preferred, these can be glued with a drop of super glue.  On mass production, just one point will glue may be easy lose off.

 

So there we have it. the pipes are glued, and the body is not designed to be easily removed, because doing so would invalidate warranty and require the cutting of the glued joint on the pipes.

 

I also attach the pdf of the wiring diagram for this loco for those that need it.

 

Hope this helps?

cheers

Dave

Adams O2 circuit diagram.pdf

[ChrisG]

Hi Chris,

And in fact everyone else with an O2  model.

 

I've spoken to China about the body removal, and as is the norm with these things, i have an answer to the body removal issue from them and i paste here.................

 

In production, the body is not glued to the chassis while the pipes are.  After removing the screws, the body can be tilted slightly, before breaking the pipes (but is less than 45 degrees).  Actually, this model is not designed for opening the body.  If for any reasons it has to be opened (e.g. repairing, or replacing parts inside), the two pipes will have to be cut (at where they meet the chassis).  After repairing, if preferred, these can be glued with a drop of super glue.  On mass production, just one point will glue may be easy lose off.

 

So there we have it. the pipes are glued, and the body is not designed to be easily removed, because doing so would invalidate warranty and require the cutting of the glued joint on the pipes.

 

I also attach the pdf of the wiring diagram for this loco for those that need it.

 

Hope this helps?

cheers

Dave

 

Thanks Dave, this is indeed extremely helpful. I can achieve most of what I wanted to do without removal of the body. Just a small comment that  removing the circuit board for the purposes of hard wiring (in order to get more or bigger "stuff" inside the boiler) would be straightforward if the loco had been wired used the normal DCC colours - red/black to wheels, grey/orange to motor, yellow/white (?I think) to the sound module (though I'm no expert on sound).  Thank you again for the excellent and prompt service on this matter! 

 

Chris

[Butler Henderson]

Thanks Dave, this is indeed extremely helpful. I can achieve most of what I wanted to do without removal of the body. Just a small comment that  removing the circuit board for the purposes of hard wiring (in order to get more or bigger "stuff" inside the boiler) would be straightforward if the loco had been wired used the normal DCC colours - red/black to wheels, grey/orange to motor, yellow/white (?I think) to the sound module (though I'm no expert on sound).  Thank you again for the excellent and prompt service on this matter! 

 

Chris

If you are wanting to keep the smokebox clear then a TCS M1 will just fit elsewhere; see my postings of 15 Nov.

[St Enodoc]

Pleased to say 207 turned up yesterday and runs well , just wondered what chips people are using ?.

TCS EUN 651 (no sound).

[AJ'S]

Hi Chris,

And in fact everyone else with an O2  model.

 

I've spoken to China about the body removal, and as is the norm with these things, i have an answer to the body removal issue from them and i paste here.................

 

In production, the body is not glued to the chassis while the pipes are.  After removing the screws, the body can be tilted slightly, before breaking the pipes (but is less than 45 degrees).  Actually, this model is not designed for opening the body.  If for any reasons it has to be opened (e.g. repairing, or replacing parts inside), the two pipes will have to be cut (at where they meet the chassis).  After repairing, if preferred, these can be glued with a drop of super glue.  On mass production, just one point will glue may be easy lose off.[/size]

 

So there we have it. the pipes are glued, and the body is not designed to be easily removed, because doing so would invalidate warranty and require the cutting of the glued joint on the pipes.

 

I also attach the pdf of the wiring diagram for this loco for those that need it.

 

Hope this helps?

cheers

Dave

I'm sorry Dave but there is no way that it is just those thin pipes stopping me removing the body.

When I lift the rear of the body up the splashers and footplate all come up as well.

I assume there must have been a very good reason why you did not design the body and footplate to come off as one assembly?

As it is these loco appear to be sealed units.

[ChrisG]

If you are wanting to keep the smokebox clear then a TCS M1 will just fit elsewhere; see my postings of 15 Nov.

If you are wanting to keep the smokebox clear then a TCS M1 will just fit elsewhere; see my postings of 15 Nov.

Ah - and I can see you got the body off, seemingly without cutting any of the pipe work, and you have a gloriously empty boiler to boot! Do you have any insight into how the body was removed because it is flooring a number of us!

 

Chris

[tender]

Ah - and I can see you got the body off, seemingly without cutting any of the pipe work, and you have a gloriously empty boiler to boot! Do you have any insight into how the body was removed because it is flooring a number of us!

 

Chris

 

I think the O2 shown in Butler Henderson's post is one without the 'pull/push' gear fitted so theres no pipe work to cut.

[Adams442T]

Just had an email from Kernow to let me know my O2 in Southern green is on its way!    Once I'm sure it's well run in I'll do some low-key 'working engine' weathering and post some photos. 

[Richard Lee]

Have been running mine in (I have to run it from one end to the other repeatedly).  At first, it gave a lot of trouble.  Luckily, I happened to have a 14.5 gauge to help me sort out the driving wheels.  I also found a couple of places on my layout where the small wheels did not like my ballasting.  After sorting out the places with the clumsy ballasting, it seems to be running nicely.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

...So there we have it. the pipes are glued, and the body is not designed to be easily removed...

That statement is helpful, and it generates a follow up question.

 

While realising that this model was a commission, is this approach to construction likely to be the normal method on DJM product?

[DJM Dave]

That statement is helpful, and it generates a follow up question.

 

While realising that this model was a commission, is this approach to construction likely to be the normal method on DJM product?

I have nothing planned at the moment that would require this huge amount of piping and security of parts not falling off.

Cheers

Dave

Ah - and I can see you got the body off, seemingly without cutting any of the pipe work, and you have a gloriously empty boiler to boot! Do you have any insight into how the body was removed because it is flooring a number of us!

Chris

Forgive the dumb question Chris, but you've unscrewed the rear of the loco?

 

If so I'm are a loss.

[ChrisG]

I have nothing planned at the moment that would require this huge amount of piping and security of parts not falling off.

Cheers

Dave

 

Forgive the dumb question Chris, but you've unscrewed the rear of the loco?

 

If so I'm are a loss.

 

Yes - I unscrewed the two screws in the bunker, removed the roof, and then raised the back of the loco. I chickened out before getting to the 45 degrees mentioned in the instructions. About half way there I was meeting a fair amount of resistance, and could not be sure what was causing it. That's when I abandoned ship and posted on this forum and then messaged you in person.

 

I had imagined the boiler would separate from the splashers but the splashers came up with the boiler, which is what made me nervous. Now that I've seen a picture of the loco with the body removed it is clear that the splashers are integral with the rest of the body, so maybe my courage will return. In any event, I have now hardwired a chip and added a stay-alive in the bunker to No.16 Ventnor, which was what I wanted to do. I have two more IOW models in boxes and I will try removing the body on one of those in due course.

 

It's impossible to get everything perfect for everyone I know, but another suggestion, along with using standard DCC wiring colours, is the provision of an exploded drawing of the whole model. Other manufacturers provide this and it  provides useful guidance for the process of dismantling, which, however perfect the model may be, some people are going to want to achieve, for whatever reason! For me the ambition is to get the electronics in the bunker and a lead weight in the boiler. My coaches are heavier and stiffer than most (brass, kitbuilt) so comments like "pulls 6 Hornby coaches with ease" do not apply to my set up!

 

Thanks for all you help

 

 

Chris

[DJM Dave]

Hi Chris,

No problem and glad your ok at the moment.

 

I'll look to exploded diagrams and perhaps u tube 'how too's' for each model from now on, as it might help quite a few people I think.

Cheers

Dave

[paulr1949]

 

Did it hesitate, go, hesitate from the moment you fitted the DCC decoder or has that recently developed? Does it do this at all speeds or just at low speed? I found quite a bit of CV tweeking was necessary to get it to run smoothly at slow/very slow speeds, something to do with the coreless motor I suspect.

Not sure, as I ran it in on DC on the rolling road in (I think) November, fitted the chip and made sure it worked, then put it away for a while, bringing it out to weather it and add S&W coupling bars.

I tried it last night on a single new length of Peco track at the club, and it certainly ran better. I have cleaned my track again, and then went over some of it with a graphite pencil and it has made a difference - not perfect, but much better. I'll have to give the CV settings some thought - I'm fairly new to DCC.

 

Thanks

Edited January 7, 2016 by paulr1949

[DJM Dave]

on the very few beatties that were returned to me from Kernow for rectification, I found that the majority needed some oil immediately on the gears and the con rod screws.

With this done and the loco on a rolling road at moderate speed each way for 10 minutes, they settled down and ran perfectly after then.

This might be worth a try with your stutterer?

 

Sincerely hope this helps?

Cheers

Dave