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Hi Cav,

 

The extension is really comming along, I do like the look of the pointwork, did you mention what make they were as it does'nt look like there is too much soldering to do. I have been thinking I might give a point kit a go for a future project.

 

 

Cheers Peter.

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Hi peter its not a kit its just seperate componants bought from C and L. I prefer to build them this way as it is a lot cheaper and I can build to any geometry i like. You can build them without any copper clad but i like to have strength and rigidity at the crossing and where the switch rails butt upto the wing rails. plus its far easier to make the crossing v this way rather than trying to make it seperately. A premade v will set you back about £13 i think so saves a bit.

 

Cheers

Cav

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Thanks Cav,

 

It could be worth me buying a C and L kit to give it a go. then go your way and just buy the bits.(I like cheaper):D The idea of having the copper clad sleepers for the crossing area it makes sence strength wise.

 

 

Cheers Peter.

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The kits are so expensive as they include preformed v's and switch blades. There is not copperclad and all is glued chairs to sleepers. looks the biz but expensive i feel at £30 a point. prices for componants varies on size of points of course (longer points more sleepers and chairs) but i managed to get all the kit for these two points which are much longer than usual and enough rail for another 2 for about £32 all in so less than half the price.

 

Cav

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Thanks Stewert much apprieciated. the sidings were ballasted with aquarium sand and the bit between with various shades of brown sawdust. worked well I thought once the grasses were added.

 

Cav

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Hi Cav,

 

Great work on the points. The C&L components are very good. I have made one of their point kits myself and as you mention can be quite expensive, but do include everything that you need to build your first point. I would then suggest buying the components separately. I've yet to have a go at my second point!

 

Keep up the good work.

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I would imagine the kits with all the awkward bit pre made are a bit easier. I have never done a kit though so you are probably more knowledgable on those mate. Ive nearly finished the crossover now. I would have finished it if I hadnt discovered late on that I put the stock rail on the wrong way round meaning that the wheel flanges hit the chairs grr. had to cut them off and rethread another 20 or so before regluing and soldering the right way round. perils of late night modelling i feel.

 

Cav

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The kits are so expensive as they include preformed v's and switch blades. There is not copperclad and all is glued chairs to sleepers. looks the biz but expensive i feel at £30 a point. prices for componants varies on size of points of course (longer points more sleepers and chairs) but i managed to get all the kit for these two points which are much longer than usual and enough rail for another 2 for about £32 all in so less than half the price.

 

Cav

 

 

Thanks again Cav,

30 quid for a point is a bit expensive, I had a look at their website and noticed that I can buy templates which I think would help me out a fair bit on my first. i am pretty sure I could solder up a v if I have something to go on. Making my first point is all a while off but feel a lot happier about doing one now.:D

 

Cheers Peter.

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Tbh i think the vs are pretty easy peter if you do then as i do built directly onto the copper clad. the tip angle doesnt even need to be acurate as long as its finer than the point angle the difference is then filled with solder when the other side is soldered on. I now have enough rail to make another 3 or 4 average size points. id just need to top up on standard chairs which would probably cost me about another 4 or 5 quid. once you have the materials in they cost virtually nothing to make.

 

Cav

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All track now laid. all thats left is to wire it up and align the tracks at the edge of the board with the existing layouts tracks. The next on the list is working out where the ohle portals and masts need to go and add some pads that will represent the concrete pads of the prototype. I can then ballast around these without risk of damage to the scratch built ohle. The goo bit now awaits! heres some of where we're at.

 

post-6894-0-19166700-1309546870_thumb.jpg

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post-6894-0-97392300-1309546940_thumb.jpg

post-6894-0-22509200-1309546954_thumb.jpg

 

Cav

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Tbh i think the vs are pretty easy peter if you do then as i do built directly onto the copper clad. the tip angle doesnt even need to be acurate as long as its finer than the point angle the difference is then filled with solder when the other side is soldered on. I now have enough rail to make another 3 or 4 average size points. id just need to top up on standard chairs which would probably cost me about another 4 or 5 quid. once you have the materials in they cost virtually nothing to make.

 

Cav

 

 

Hi Cav,

I see what you mean re the v and building straight onto the copper clad sleepers seems to be the go. Do you glue them onto the template or hold them another way while you are soldering?

 

The pic of the completed trackwork looks great, I was wondering how you were going to cross over from the track on the main, being as it is on a cant, but noticed the crossover is on the other board.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Hi peter. I glue all of the sleepers to the template before I start with an impact adesive such as evo stik or bostik. once thats dried its going nowhere soon. then you can solder and glue til yourhearts content.

 

Cav

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Hi Cav,

 

The track looks great - nice sweeping curve. Certainly a massive improvement over ready-to-lay track, plus you can build the correct formation to fit rather than comprimising on radii etc

Great work and inspiring. There does seem to be a slow shift towards hand-built track and not nearly as difficult as some people make out.

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Guest jim s-w

As i said to you earlier mate you could actually get 3 of those 08s in a row just on the blades!

 

Cav

 

I Cav

 

I'll see your 3 08's and raise you a 47 and several coaches! ;)

 

storageyard930april09co.jpg

 

Good work on the point, I have a few observations that I hope will be helpful.

 

First one is the tip of your crossing is unsupported. It must always be over a sleeper and the second is the tips of your filed rails that form the vee shouldnt meet at the end of the vee. The main route (the straightest one) should form the tip of the vee while the second rail should be spliced onto the main rail at the end of the plaining.

 

building%20a%20vee%205.jpg

 

If it works though I wouldn't change it now but I hope that helps

 

Cheers

 

Jim

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Cheers Tom. I probably wasnt driving anyway as like usual i spent more time nattering than running the layout haha. The layout was exemplary today though.

 

As for the extension maybe I should do a 'how to build better points the easy way' (not for the rivet counters though I may add)

 

Cav

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Cheers for the info Jim that is a big point you have there though mate. I wouldnt change my point for the world now it works a treat. I actually think I did splice my originals thinking about it but it maka no difference to the running of the v. the whole thing is now a soldered up pointy lump that supports the wheels just fine. Maybe its more critical in P4 I dont know. I will however plan my sleepers a little better next time though.

 

Cav

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Guest jim s-w

Hi Cav

 

the unsupported vee wont make any difference to a model, its just not how the real ones are constructed. (I have ended up with one myself on a 3 way)

 

You realise that you will never go back to RTR track geometry now though dont you? :drinks:

 

Cheers

 

Jim

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Hi Cav, thanks for a fantastic day, really was a pleasure to run such a stunning layout that like you said ran faultless, except my colour signal blindness laugh.gif, but thank you very much, and thank you for introducing me to wheel Squeel, sound for Deeping Lane it is then yes.gifyes.gif

 

great day, great conversation and great friends

 

Cheers

 

Neil

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Hi Cav

 

the unsupported vee wont make any difference to a model, its just not how the real ones are constructed. (I have ended up with one myself on a 3 way)

 

You realise that you will never go back to RTR track geometry now though dont you? :drinks:

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 

Ive already decided that Jim. I was hooked after the first lot I did for phase 1, they were a bit of a feeler but so much nicer and more prototypical than peco stuff. These last lot have converted me for life.

 

Mason, no probs your help was invaluable. For such a small layout it keeps one person far too busy. Its more fun with two or 3 operators anyway!

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