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Guest Max Stafford

Looks like an unusual high-sided Carflat variant Roy. Never seen that one before, can you tell us more about them?

 

Dave.

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post-4469-0-21459600-1338062264_thumb.jpg

 

After a few evenings at my workbench, here is the outcome, a couple of Carflats complete with Anglia loads, forming part of a Northbound freight.

 

Please don't look too closely, they are as representative as I could get form photos I had to hand!

 

Roy

 

 

in relation to carflats (and other wagons etc) i found the following page quite useful, i model 00 myself but it is still useful for liveries and other info. http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/gansg/4-rstock/04arstock5.htm

 

kingfisher

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Looks like an unusual high-sided Carflat variant Roy. Never seen that one before, can you tell us more about them?

 

Dave.

 

Hi Dave

 

Thanks for your honest observations, Yes, now I look again at the pics on here I see what you mean. I should have maybe checked fidelity to prototype a little more thoroughly before posting the pics on here given the levels of knowledge that I know exist amongst posters here:-(

 

I scoured the Web for kits or drawings, the only kits I could find were for the much later "Motorail" Flats which were anyway unavailable and drawings were a "no no" anywhere I looked. I therfore resorted to approximation from photos, Some from the other threads on the WR topic here, but also the one on the WRHA site Homepage which is here (The pics scroll through) and elsewhere. It was the WHRA one that finally tempted me to have a go, given the less than trainload aspect and the A3 pulling the train!

 

http://wrha.org.uk/

 

The basis for the models is old Mike Howarth kit Stanier 57ft underframes, My admittedly only partially successful research led me to conclude that this kind of underframe along with BR Mk1 Suburbans (I have some but they are too expensive to steal chassis parts from) formed the usual platforms.

 

The sides are 4mm platikard strips, That makes them all but 2ft high in N. Allowing for the depth of the Underframes and floor, they came just below the level of the top of Anglia's wheels when fitted which appeared to be approximately right from the photos.

 

The ends are larger because that is what pics appeared to depict and I had assumed that like Motorail Flats they folded down over buffers/drawgear to allow vehcles to be driven along trains rather than needing to be loaded on individual wagons. Have I got this wrong?

 

Maybe I should have another try!

 

Regards

 

Roy

Edited by Roy L S
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in relation to carflats (and other wagons etc) i found the following page quite useful, i model 00 myself but it is still useful for liveries and other info. http://myweb.tiscali.../04arstock5.htm

 

kingfisher

 

Hi Kingfisher

 

Thank you for the link, it contains a lot of useful information.

 

The first of the two drawings of the Carflat is very interesting and does show hardly any sides.

 

That said the RMWEB link below does sem to show sides more built up; -

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/42292-the-famous-car-trains/page__pid__462636&do=findComment&comment=462636

 

But I am reaching the conclusion that in due course I do need to have another go.

 

Regards

 

Roy

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  • 3 weeks later...

post-10572-0-42338000-1339685428_thumb.jpg

my club has made a video of newcastleton that was taken at the glenrothes show this year. please try to ignore my derailing of my j39 in the goods yard when the frieght moves off, the guard, ie me, didnt set the points correctly.

 

anyway here is the link

 

 

hope you like what you see.

 

on newcatleton's next outing there should be a completed car train also.

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i posted this before but managed to put it up on the layout notions page when it was ment for here........anyway.......

 

here is another waverley route loco seen on this thread already but, in differant livery.

 

ex LNER A10 E68 Sir Visto in the later style apple green with yellow lettering, this loco was made from one of the new Hornby Gresley A1 loco's and has turned out quite well with a new chimney, a repaint and extra detailing and a light weathering. now all i need to do is make up a train to go behind it as all my stock apart from this loco is early/late BR era. this loco was the last A10 and was rebuilt in late 1948/49 if i remember correctly and with some modellers licence could run with some blood and custard stock at a push.

 

i do not usually model locos in apple green but, it was a nice change to make something differant, when lining out the loco i stopped shirt of lining out the chassis/freames below the running plate as it would drive me mad (some say i am already) and as the loco is weathered anyway, it would be a waste of time as the red liining would be covered again.

 

i think a nice long fitted freight will be going behind this loco for Newcastleton (thats if i can manage to sneak it in as the layout is set in the late 50's-early 60's). i can but try and it will hopefully provide a nice splash of colour on the layout.

 

I just wanted to pop by and say what an exquisite model of Sir Visto this is. Could you relate please, exactly what you did to achieve this superb result? I can see a new chimney, lamp brackets, front coupling and handrails - is there anything else besides?

 

I was slightly gobsmacked that it has come from the new Railroad Scotsman model - aside from the difference in the cab side sheets and the buffers, I honestly couldn't tell from that last photograph it wasn't one in the super detail range!

 

It does make me wonder if that model at anywhere between £55 and £65 online may be a better bet for getting the A3s I want for Copley Hill than buying up the rather more expensive Hornby top of the range A3s online.

 

On a separate note, can I say chaps - superb thread. Tons of brilliant modelling and awesome ideas. More please. :)

Edited by S.A.C Martin
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Is this going to appear down south at all?

 

and the was a V2 in some of the opening sequences Bachmann or a kit?

 

The V2 in the opening sequence is a Bachmann one [the same loco is seen backing its train into the siding later on] as is the one on the cement train. The example on the last goods in the film is a Nu-Cast Kit built as 60813 the V2 fitted with a stove pipe chimney and 'shovel' deflector.

 

Jeremy

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I just wanted to pop by and say what an exquisite model of Sir Visto this is. Could you relate please, exactly what you did to achieve this superb result? I can see a new chimney, lamp brackets, front coupling and handrails - is there anything else besides?

 

I was slightly gobsmacked that it has come from the new Railroad Scotsman model - aside from the difference in the cab side sheets and the buffers, I honestly couldn't tell from that last photograph it wasn't one in the super detail range!

 

It does make me wonder if that model at anywhere between £55 and £65 online may be a better bet for getting the A3s I want for Copley Hill than buying up the rather more expensive Hornby top of the range A3s online.

 

On a separate note, can I say chaps - superb thread. Tons of brilliant modelling and awesome ideas. More please. :)

 

 

thanks for the comment. other than changing the chimney the main change was the tender body, i looked around for a Hornby non-corridor tender body but had no luck but, i did manage to find a dave alexander white-metal nody kit for the tender which, although heavier and not so well detailed, still looks good enough in my eyes.

 

the model is in some ways better than the finer version. the chassis is heavier and fly wheel fitted. the rear truck is a metal casting as opposed to a plastic moulding which helps with haulage capacity. and at less than seventy pounds is a very reasonable starting point for converting. in my gallery there are pictures showing how i did the conversion.

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  • 3 weeks later...

After many months with no success, at last, thanks to Alan Cox At "Etched Pixels" I finally have nameplates for my N Gauge A2 "Blue Peter".

 

A couple of pics attached. They are not brillaint as I was rushing because the camera batteries were giving up!

 

I am reasonably happy with how the loco has turned out overall, albeit I know it is not perfect.

 

Roy

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Her is a pic of my recently (nearly completed) Clayton.

 

The model is a Parkwood resin body on a scratchbuilt dummy chassis. The bogies are old Farish coach bogies with new plastikard representations of the Clayton's bogies stuck over the filed down sides.

 

It is early on in the somewhat chequered career of the Clatyon, as yet no yellow warning panels have been applied..

 

I do hope that one day I can source the Kato DD13 chassis for it, but in the meantime it will do what Claytons did best...be a failed engine under tow!

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Heres a link to my Flickr Set 'Locos of Cruikglen' showing work in progress on a bunch of locos. More in the pipeline.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ngaugewaverley/sets/72157630179976888/

 

If anyone can help, I'd like to know if it is possible to link to the flickr images directly so they appear in-line in a post?

 

Cheers

Dave

Edited by DaveArkley
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Following on from my posting the other day, I have tidied my Clayton's paintwork up a tad and applied yellow panels plus a spot of weathering to the underframe. I could go on trying to "improve" it but think I will call if finished now.

 

It is destined to a life of being "dragged" as a failure until (if) I ever find a Micro-Ace DD13 chassis for it.

 

Roy

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With 2mm B1's being on the agenda I've got to jump at that chance

 

A recent purchase, originally the hugely inappropriate 61251 Oliver Bury , has underwent an identity change and is now operating as the wholly more appropriate 61244 Strang Steel.

 

 

various290111001.jpg

 

This particular conversion had the added complexity that I also wanted to replicate the front buffer beam markings for such a loco based on a picture from t'web (the excellent BarkingBill from memory).

 

A onerous task in 2mm and requiring custom decals from the excellent Cambridge Custom Transfers.

Legibility is borderline for both the B1 and St Margarets text but I wanted something rather than nothing there, the front smokebox number was still to be applied at this stage.

Sadly smokebox shedplates, to the best of my knowledge, are beyond 2mm decals at the moment

various290111003.jpg

 

I'm looking to do a similar renumbering but i've never renumbered any kettles before- just dozens of diesels! Whats the best method for removing the bodyside numbers? I've gently (and successfully) scraped numbers off on modern locos without leaving a trace but these numbers are much bigger and a naff job will show up much more! Any advice would be appreciated!

 

Ian B

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I'm looking to do a similar renumbering but i've never renumbered any kettles before- just dozens of diesels! Whats the best method for removing the bodyside numbers? I've gently (and successfully) scraped numbers off on modern locos without leaving a trace but these numbers are much bigger and a naff job will show up much more! Any advice would be appreciated!

 

Ian B

 

I use a fibreglass pencil with very gentle strokes to get the bulk off then a Faber hard erasor to finish off.

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I use a fibreglass pencil with very gentle strokes to get the bulk off then a Faber hard erasor to finish off.

 

Hi Ian

 

I have renumbered quite a few Hornby and Bachmann A1's, A3's, and A4's in 00 scale and I just use a cocktail stick, just slightly blunt the end and rub the decal gently and it comes off fine.

 

Apply a coat of Johnson's Klear before and after you apply any new transfers and that should be all you need to do.

 

I would recommend that you try this method on an old loco first.

 

Regards

 

David

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bagged a bargain- Bayardo for £75 on ebay! Thought it had gone pear shaped when it arrived and did nothing but spark and hum with no movement at all, luckily the guy had a second and it runs beautifully. Now i'm amassing a bit of a WR stud (26, 27, 4mt, Black 5, B1, A3, A4) I think its about time to start a layout thread showing my new setup. All being well i'll get one started in the next few days. in the meantime on with convincing the Mrs that a green Peak is a perfect anniversary present to ask for from the parents...

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I'm looking to do a similar renumbering but i've never renumbered any kettles before- just dozens of diesels! Whats the best method for removing the bodyside numbers? I've gently (and successfully) scraped numbers off on modern locos without leaving a trace but these numbers are much bigger and a naff job will show up much more! Any advice would be appreciated!

 

Ian B

 

Ian

Some good replies already, and for sure there are many different ways to skin a cat regarding this task.

 

I posted on another thread my own approach and a particular eraser pencil that I like to use, I've done a load of renumbers using this technique and I always find it works cleanly.

 

Here's the link

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/55404-best-way-to-re-number-a-farish-57/#entry684858

 

 

 

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Bagged a bargain- Bayardo for £75 on ebay! Thought it had gone pear shaped when it arrived and did nothing but spark and hum with no movement at all, luckily the guy had a second and it runs beautifully. Now i'm amassing a bit of a WR stud (26, 27, 4mt, Black 5, B1, A3, A4) I think its about time to start a layout thread showing my new setup. All being well i'll get one started in the next few days. in the meantime on with convincing the Mrs that a green Peak is a perfect anniversary present to ask for from the parents...

 

Only right to start a layout thread, :-) and let us see what you've been up to.

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