Bachmann Class 40 32-475DC and 32-480DS

[tinsley-toton]

Are any of them mine Lee?

I'll be sending you a green D369 very shortly to convert to 40060 in blue, after I've removed the oversized MW fittings on the bogies as 060 didn't have them, It will give me great pleasure to remove them !!

 

T-T

 

They are looking very good by the way.

Edited April 4, 2014 by tinsley-toton

[blueeighties]

Hi Mr Tinsley. Yes, yours are in this batch :-) I know what you mean about the oversize jumpers, it would be good if some enterprising manufacturer could offer a scale replacement. Mr Harvey?

[GordonC]

It was on an email explaining the reasons for the cancellation of 40145 (I had preordered it). For info the 37's are DRS 402 & 405, 37418 LL Blue, 37418 EW&S, and 37901 in Rf, Trainload Metals and Transrail.

 

37418 in LL Blue? Isn't that the one pictured in the Bachmann Highlander train pack with 2 Kyle line Mk 2 coaches that are due this year? Would be an odd choice to commission unless they're adding to Bachmanns planned production so it'd be sold generally in the train pack or exclusively on its own from Olivias

[Heavyhaul]

I still have two of them

Andy,

 

I have a brand new one of these, is it possible to fit RP25 wheels to these?

 

Pete.

[Heavyhaul]

I have just completed a few hours' cleaning out some residual pink grease and any other grease in both bogies of D211. If it is useful, the process used is below. Try not to wince when you read my description of materials used!

 

I do anything with locos in a large deep wooden tray about 14 x 18 inches, and 2 inches deep. (Raid the kitchen or cut a piece of ply and fit a 2x1 softwood surround). Nothing escapes or slides off it. Screws are put on a piece of sellotape stuck to the side of the tray.

 

Remove the 8 body screws. For replacing later, note that the main fan on the roof is at the end nearest the white "DCC Sound" label on the underside of the fuel tank.

 

Put the loco on a table and remove the top pivot screw to the bogie. When you lift up the main bulk of the loco the released bogie will remain, complete with its carden drive shaft which simply comes away from the the flywheel. Put all the main bulk of the loco to one side.

 

Turning to the released bogie, unscrew the front pony wheel and its sprung plate. Note how the sprung plate fits (there is a right way up, but you can always confirm in your mind by looking at the other bogie when you do the rebuild).

Then unclip the bogie detailed outer moulding from the main bogie structure.

 

Pop out the wheels sets. The first popping of an axle is a bit eye-watering, but having done one carefully, you will be confident enough to see that it's not difficult. Once everything is down to component items, it is ready to set about the clean up. My cleaning agents (believe me, they worked) were an eggcup with some malt vinegar, and another into which I sprayed some Cillit Bang "Power Clean Grease and Sparkle" (purple bottle) kitchen cleaner (The label says don't use it on wood, and a test on plastic proved all was well - after all, it comes in a plastic bottle). 

 

I then used a small modelling paintbrush to apply the Cillit Bang all over the gear sets (Note: Once the wheels are out you are left with 2 sub-sets of 3 small white plastic/polyurethane gears in the base of the bogie moulding. One set is gear-locked to the gearbox, but they can be turned for cleaning by revolving the carden shaft manually. The other sub-set of 3 gears are free turning once the wheels are out.). I then gently prodded and scraped variously with a cocktail stick, cotton buds and patted with a paper tissue to get off the worst of the excess. Make sure to get into the recesses of the teeth of the gears I then gave it a brushing over with Cillit Bang to dilute the remaining greasiness and repeated the prodding and patting. Next, another brushing over with vinegar and then, holding it in a paper tissue, I used an empty airbrush running at 65psi to blow out any stuff I couldn't get at under the gears. This residue was airbrushed into corners of the plastic moulding of the bogie and then, with a bit more vinegar brushed on, it helped to push the final bits into a tissue held up close to the area. This might take a bit of time if you do a couple of repeats, but as the worst of the grease goes, you can see what is grease and what is just the shine of the plastic moulding.   

 

The wheels were liberally brushed with Cillit Bang, sloshed with vinegar and then dealt with using the cocktail sticks, cotton buds and tissues. Once it looked grease-free, I rewashed it in vinegar and airbrushed it onto a tissue held on the inside of the wheel, and tucked under the gear. Then a final wipe over with a piece of tissue, and the wheels were done.

 

Once everything was degreased, the rebuild was straightforward. However, check the brass bearings on the (main wheel) wheelset axles. Two axles have bearings with a broad channel that sits on the bogie, and also a very narrow channel that takes the phosphor bronze pickup strip. The other wheel has only the broad channel for mounting on the bogie. This is the MIDDLE set of the three main wheels and does not pick up current. On the outer wheels you must make sure the pickup strip fits inside the narrow channel. All but one of my pickups fell into place automatically, but it was easy to lightly ease the other strip outwards a very tiny amount and then it all fell into place as the axle was push-fitted back onto the bogie moulding.

 

Once the first bogie was done and re-fitted, only then did the second one get removed to repeat the process.

Once done, the body fitted back on like a dream and the loco went on the track.

 

Does it work? Perfectly. At speedstep 1 of 128 it took 53 seconds to move 5 feet fault-free including crossing 4 points. There is no stuttering or hunting. A good indication of this is that a Bachmann coach, with the sprung extender couplings which they carry, doesn't judder along behind the loco. This is simply D211 out of the box, but now minus grease.

 

I hope this is of use. It was a very worthwhile exercise. If you do it, just take your time.

Very interesting procedure, but does this not invalidate the warranty?

[Heavyhaul]

Just had my 141 back from Lee,blueeighties on here,

WOW!!!!

What a transformation I had it weathered while it was in the North East but the quality in running since the pick up mods have been done is amazing.

I cannot get it to stall anywhere on my layout even at speed step 3 it just crawls around without a problem.

Lee have you fitted slow speed control or something as the 40's did not have them!!!!! :wink:

 

I've also just received D211 from Hattons & that seems to be a lot better runner than 141 it will loose sound on bad track (occasionally) but the radon stalling has not been a problem with this model (fingers crossed the problem does not return when muck gets in the pickups).

 

In due course it will end up in the North East for the mod & dirtying up...

 

Steve,

My D211 also shot off at speed when I first put it on my track with the horn sounding, I put this down to Bachmann testing it before it left them and just taking it off the track without letting loco spool down like we would normally do.

I did notice a slight stutter at slow speed which I stopped by that black art of setting CV54 to 0 (I think) then pressing F1 and watching the loco shoot off and sort its own motor control out. I Googled this and found it on here but best check first as not all chips are the same.

 

Two other slight problems I had, was the headlights would only work in one direction but tailamps were ok, I slackened the screws off at that end of the loco and it seems to work fine since.

Also I cannot fit a blanking headcode disc over the middle lower led as there is no hole to push disc into. Has anyone else had this problem?

 

cheers

 

Stu

Stu,

 

Mine had the blank middle lower holes also, it appears to be just 'casting flash'. I Poked a 0.5mm drill in a pin vice into the holes very carefully and the flashing pushed out thus allowing the fitting of the discs.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Pete.

[P.C.M]

Hi Mr Tinsley. Yes, yours are in this batch :-) I know what you mean about the oversize jumpers, it would be good if some enterprising manufacturer could offer a scale replacement. Mr Harvey?

Hi Lee,

I have used some jumpers from an old Craftsman class 40 detail kit. They are not that much smaller to be honest and I think if you filed down the top rounded section on the Bachmann ones and file back the raised pad on the bogie that they sit on it would look a lot better.

 

Cheers Peter. 

[P.C.M]

I was just having a look at the centre headcode loco on the  Rails of Sheffield website and I am not sure the headcode box looks right. It's hard to tell from just looking at the pictures but it looks a bit big.

 

Cheers Peter.

[geoffwba]

The rear lights on D211 look a bit on the bright side to me.  Does anyone know which CV/CVs I need to alter on the Loksound 4.0 to alter the brightness?  I have looked at the manual which talks about index CVs and such like but I must confess to not understanding the part relating to lighting!

[tractor_37260]

I was just having a look at the centre headcode loco on the  Rails of Sheffield website and I am not sure the headcode box looks right. It's hard to tell from just looking at the pictures but it looks a bit big.

 

Cheers Peter.

Good head on comparison photo here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/84231-latest-Bachmann-class-40-32-481/  - see post 6  - draw your own conclusions ! 

Edited April 5, 2014 by tractor_37260

[P.C.M]

Good head on comparison photo here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/84231-latest-Bachmann-class-40-32-481/  - see post 6  - draw your own conclusions ! 

Thanks Ken,

I think the width is ok but it looks a bit to deep to me, having compared it with pics of the real thing.

I would like to know for sure though, anyone want to measure a real one. 40145 is alive and well.

 

Cheers Peter.

[aac]

Very interesting procedure, but does this not invalidate the warranty?

I would hope not. I re-lubricated in the right places with the right lubricant. The problem had been  excess pink stuff still in the system. That has now gone. With some bedding in it's now managed 5 feet with 4 points in 71 seconds.

[Ian Hargrave]

Good head on comparison photo here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/84231-latest-Bachmann-class-40-32-481/  - see post 6  - draw your own conclusions !

 

Go to the thread for 32-481.I have posted the link for two colour head shots of the fullbox prototypes .That should ease your mind.Bachmann have it correct.

[NERBOB]

Awaiting my 32-481 - D369, and a bit worried after reading through the last 36 pages! Hopefully these issues will be sorted, perhaps not, but there's enough information now to help if there's an issue. Will be fitting Locsound's 21 pin sound decoder. Haven't had any problems with the 37s or 47s, so here's hoping. 

I'll post on the Class37 pages but does anyone think the later Class 37 (Green) has a high ride height?

[stovepipe]

Got my D369 at the weekend, it's a seriously good bit of kit. Really smooth runner and no problems in negotiating my RTR trackwork. The only slight negative is the white handrails on the nose, but I will sort those out in time.

[Ian Hargrave]

Got my D369 at the weekend, it's a seriously good bit of kit. Really smooth runner and no problems in negotiating my RTR trackwork. The only slight negative is the white handrails on the nose, but I will sort those out in time.

They ARE correct,believe it or not.See the separate topic on 32-481.On the front cover of Gavin Morrison's  "The Power Of The 40's" colour pic.of D369 with white handrails !

[stovepipe]

True enough, I just don't like them that much!

[Leander]

I've just had to exchange my D211 at Rails this morning. It ran, but only intermittently. The sound and lights worked perfectly however. Tapping the chip (when the body was off) or on the roof with the body on got it going but whether it moved or not became something of a lottery. The Laird and I tried a different chip (non-sound out of a Bachmann Peak) and it ran perfectly. Therefore it seems that the fault was in the chip, possibly a dry joint.

[Phil Bullock]

A few green ones I have been repainting into blue. Have removed lamp brackets, added new handrails, removed grabs as necessary from the nose ends depending on what loco is being modelled. Finished and weathered these are going to be beasts 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice one!!!

 

Here she is a few years earlier

 

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[blueeighties]

Lovely that Phil!

[John Tomlinson]

True enough, I just don't like them that much!

 

      You might like to read my post today on the other 40 thread - I wouldn't regard the photo referred to as definitive on this matter. Incidentally I think this colour shot is on IA's "The Heyday of the 40's", not "The Power of the 40's" as stated.

 

John,   with snaps on www.flickr.com/photos/51265696@N03

Edited April 9, 2014 by John Tomlinson

[tractor_37260]

The rear lights on D211 look a bit on the bright side to me.  Does anyone know which CV/CVs I need to alter on the Loksound 4.0 to alter the brightness?  I have looked at the manual which talks about index CVs and such like but I must confess to not understanding the part relating to lighting!

It's not possible to dim the tail lights only on the model as supplied. The markers at one end and the tails on the opposite end are linked to the same circuit. The wiring would require altering to separate the tail lights from the markers and then use Aux 1& 2 to control them. On a standard model Aux 1 is already used for the cab lights, so they would no longer work.

 

However if your happy to dim both markers and tail lights together at opposite ends proceed as follows:

Firstly set the Index CV's - CV31=16  CV32=0

CV262 controls one pair of marker and tail lights - Range 0 to 31 Default setting = 16  To dim try setting to 8 and view the results and adjust to suit etc

CV270 controls the other pair  "       "         "         - Range 0 to 31 Default setting = 16   "         "           "              "         "              "              "              "

CV278 controls the cab lights                               - Range 0 to 31     "           "      = 16    "        "            "             "          "              "              "              "

Once happy with the results re-set CV31 to 0 

 

If possible, use POM as you can view the results instantly.

 

HTH

Ken

Edited April 9, 2014 by tractor_37260

[aac]

It's not possible to dim the tail lights only on the model as supplied. The markers at one end and the tails on the opposite end are linked to the same circuit. The wiring would require altering to separate the tail lights from the markers and then use Aux 1& 2 to control them. On a standard model Aux 1 is already used for the cab lights, so they would no longer work.

 

However if your happy to dim both markers and tail lights together at opposite ends proceed as follows:

Firstly set the Index CV's - CV31=16  CV32=0

CV262 controls one pair of marker and tail lights - Range 0 to 31 Default setting = 16  To dim try setting to 8 and view the results and adjust to suit etc

CV270 controls the other pair  "       "         "         - Range 0 to 31 Default setting = 16   "         "           "              "         "              "              "              "

CV278 controls the cab lights                               - Range 0 to 31     "           "      = 16    "        "            "             "          "              "              "              "

Once happy with the results re-set CV31 to 0 

 

If possible, use POM as you can view the results instantly.

 

HTH

Ken

I'm interested in this too, but do you have to re-set CV 32 as well once the changes are done? Thanks.

[NERBOB]

(Might be on the wrong thread but seeing as I've read all this here goes:

Well, it's here! D369 - Bachmann's 32-481.

Gave her a try on dc, beautiful and what a cracking model. Then it was time for a dismantle and get prepared for DCC.

The 8 screws in the chassis were difficult to remove. I've got all the right tools but boy were they tight. Fearing the worst, I was pleasantly surprised when the body lifted off easily. The inside is very neat with everything tidily finished. I fitted a Loksound decoder (55478) from SWD. Had to cut off the oval speaker as supplied (!) and fit a 28mm circular but this fits exactly into the housing beneath the roof fan. Perfect fit and wow! What a sound. Have had to turn it down as nearly deafened me. Absolutely stunning.

However - and there had to be one, it runs like a bag of the proverbial!

Oh, disappointment rules at the moment but I won't worry at this stage after having read the contributions on this topic/thread.

Slow (shunting/creep) is very jerky. As if it's running over the sleepers (it's not), but that's what the jerking is like. On a 128 speed step 1 to 4 is terrible. 5 onwards is smooth as a baby's bum.

I actually think, first off, that the loco is too heavy for the gearing. Weighing in at 640g she is heavy! It seems as if the cogs are struggling to tick over until some momentum is reached and then she's fine.

Pitched against the Class 45 (at 580g), the 45 being really smooth throughout the speed range from a crawl to prototypical mid range, it seems to have a much finer gear to weight ratio, which the 40 doesn't.

Tomorrow will be CV checking and adjusting, (then maybe a tweak at the gearboxes if there's no improvement).

Other than that she is stunning. Recommended and very exciting to add to the fleet!

 

If anyone wishes to comment, or advise, please do so as I'm sure it's a mechanical issue (gear ratio) at the moment, but will accept any advice. Cheers, Rob

[tractor_37260]

(Might be on the wrong thread but seeing as I've read all this here goes:

Well, it's here! D369 - Bachmann's 32-481.

Gave her a try on dc, beautiful and what a cracking model. Then it was time for a dismantle and get prepared for DCC.

The 8 screws in the chassis were difficult to remove. I've got all the right tools but boy were they tight. Fearing the worst, I was pleasantly surprised when the body lifted off easily. The inside is very neat with everything tidily finished. I fitted a Loksound decoder (55478) from SWD. Had to cut off the oval speaker as supplied (!) and fit a 28mm circular but this fits exactly into the housing beneath the roof fan. Perfect fit and wow! What a sound. Have had to turn it down as nearly deafened me. Absolutely stunning.

However - and there had to be one, it runs like a bag of the proverbial!

Oh, disappointment rules at the moment but I won't worry at this stage after having read the contributions on this topic/thread.

Slow (shunting/creep) is very jerky. As if it's running over the sleepers (it's not), but that's what the jerking is like. On a 128 speed step 1 to 4 is terrible. 5 onwards is smooth as a baby's bum.

I actually think, first off, that the loco is too heavy for the gearing. Weighing in at 640g she is heavy! It seems as if the cogs are struggling to tick over until some momentum is reached and then she's fine.

Pitched against the Class 45 (at 580g), the 45 being really smooth throughout the speed range from a crawl to prototypical mid range, it seems to have a much finer gear to weight ratio, which the 40 doesn't.

Tomorrow will be CV checking and adjusting, (then maybe a tweak at the gearboxes if there's no improvement).

Other than that she is stunning. Recommended and very exciting to add to the fleet!

 

If anyone wishes to comment, or advise, please do so as I'm sure it's a mechanical issue (gear ratio) at the moment, but will accept any advice. Cheers, Rob

Try the Loksound 4 auto tune feature - you'll need at least 4-6ft of clear track - ensure you know which direction the loco is set to travel, then set CV54 = 0 press F1 the loco will shoot off at speed and then stop on it's own, this should help improve slow speed running. It's always worthwhile running-in a new loco in both directions, preferably on DC, only fitting DCC once happy with its running qualities.

 

HTH 

Ken