blueeighties Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 May aswell buy a sound fitted one. They quoted me £150 for a Bachmann 47 with the sound removed not long ago. I didn't buy it ! lol, I was waiting for that. Olivias do seem a tad pricey. I have just sold some of them for £90 and they went like hotcakes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 May aswell buy a sound fitted one. They quoted me £150 for a Bachmann 47 with the sound removed not long ago. I didn't buy it ! Rip-off comes to mind !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffwba Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 How does one remove the bogie frame on this loco. In Andy Y's pictures posted 27 Feb 2014, it says they are just unclipped but I can't fathom out how they are unclipped. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 How does one remove the bogie frame on this loco. In Andy Y's pictures posted 27 Feb 2014, it says they are just unclipped but I can't fathom out how they are unclipped. Like most Bachmann diesels the bogie frames are a clip-fit, on the Class 40 they're a tighter fit than normal. It may prove easier to take off the body and remove the top mounting screws that hold each bogie in the chassis, the complete bogie will then drop out. Using a small flat bladed screwdriver between the frame and one end of the the main bogie moulding, carefully lever the frame off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted March 5, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2015 The frames are VERY tight on the bogie. The clip on one of mine (sound fitted D211) was already broken when I went to give it a clean out - can only have occurred when Bachmann did the same clean up before the models were released. The good news is that the frame will still sit firmly in place even with the clip broken. Other thing to note doing this is that you will have to disconnect the drive shafts (easy) and then re connect them (more awkward) when you've finished. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Market65 Posted March 5, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Hi. Regarding re-fitting the drive- shafts. When doing that on any Bachmann diesel, not just the 40's, I always make sure that the end of the shaft that is to fit into the ''cup'' (either the one at the end of the motor, or the one at the end of the gear tower) is orientated so that it is at ''six o'clock'', along with the ''cup''. By going about it this way, I find that I can refit them in about two to three seconds without any tears! I, should also add that I make good use of a magnifying-lamp, which further helps. Just about all my Bachmann bogie frames are an incredibly tight fit, and I've had several breakages. All the best, Market65. Edited March 5, 2015 by Market65 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffwba Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Thanks for the replies folks. I have removed the bogies from the body but still cannot remove the bogie frame- it's just too tight, so I've restricted myself to cleaning the axles with a bit of isopropyl alcohol. No problem in refitting the bogies and the loco appears to run OK. I have had recent problems with the loco "stuttering" but it may just be the track. If it persists I shall return it to Bachmann and let them sort it out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted March 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2015 Any loco that picks up on the outer axles only of a 3 axle bogie is likely to have problems - fundamental design flaw! Have given in here and gone for the additional pick-ups on backs of wheels approach - all 3 axles per bogie Also hard wired bogies to chassis. If that doesn't fix it then I give up! Phil 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUNFOS Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Any recomendations for the best replacement buffers to use? Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted April 1, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 1, 2015 Any loco that picks up on the outer axles only of a 3 axle bogie is likely to have problems - fundamental design flaw! Have given in here and gone for the additional pick-ups on backs of wheels approach - all 3 axles per bogie Also hard wired bogies to chassis. If that doesn't fix it then I give up! Phil And that has fixed it - D200 is now a fully functional fleet member after trials on abbotswood at the weekend Pierre Le Brun turned up with another he has purchased - will have to give it the same treatemnt! Many thanks to those up thread who posted this advice - its a quick and easy fix Phil 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamiel Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) Bachmann are shuffling the liveries of the various headcode types of the 40s. Examples of a couple of them were on show at the Bachmann stand at the York show this weekend. The split headcode, with small yellow panel looks very nice. They are showing on the Bachmann website and for pre-order at Hattons, and other retailers no doubt. Edited April 5, 2015 by Jamiel 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DropTheTap Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Although "Aureol" in her 97xxx end of life number looks great, I would have preferred a more run of the mill disk headcode example that I could have run in mid- 1970s guise... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted April 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2015 Bachmann are shuffling the liveries of the various headcode types of the 40s. Examples of a couple of them were on show at the Bachmann stand at the York show this weekend. The split headcode, with small yellow panel looks very nice. They are showing on the Bachmann website and for pre-order at Hattons, and other retailers no doubt. There was a noticeable lip where the nose joined the body on the sample in the Bachmann display cabinet - hopefully not repeated on the production versions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 There was a noticeable lip where the nose joined the body on the sample in the Bachmann display cabinet - hopefully not repeated on the production versions. They are separately fitted noses...the joins are always visible, especially on the same body/nose colour. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted April 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2015 They are separately fitted noses...the joins are always visible, especially on the same body/nose colour. I know - I've got D211 - but it was much more pronounced on the display sample. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Maybes a slight difference with paint finishes as it is a display sample? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted April 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2015 Maybes a slight difference with paint finishes as it is a display sample? Possible. I reckon a poorly assembled preproduction model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimbamoss Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Hi, Got a question, Just working on my 40141, replaced all of the sliding connection for soldered wires, runs great now. I have also removed the switches in the tanks as I have fitted a speaker and a "Biffosound" V4 chip. Now then can any one answer a question about the new circuit board? My eyes have nearly gone loopy looking at the tracks on it! Can I modify it to use the 2 spare outputs to be the front and rear tail lights? I have a poor picture of the card attached, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUNFOS Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Although "Aureol" in her 97xxx end of life number looks great, I would have preferred a more run of the mill disk headcode example that I could have run in mid- 1970s guise... A bit like this? Thanks to Leeslocos. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUNFOS Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Hi, Got a question, Just working on my 40141, replaced all of the sliding connection for soldered wires, runs great now. I have also removed the switches in the tanks as I have fitted a speaker and a "Biffosound" V4 chip. Now then can any one answer a question about the new circuit board? My eyes have nearly gone loopy looking at the tracks on it! Can I modify it to use the 2 spare outputs to be the front and rear tail lights? I have a poor picture of the card attached,Ian Have you tried the DCC question section in the forum? Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holmesfeldian Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I'm still waiting for a 4mm multiple working bogie detail, not 7mm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DropTheTap Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I'm still waiting for a 4mm multiple working bogie detail, not 7mm Fair point but if that's your biggest issue... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Hi, Got a question, Just working on my 40141, replaced all of the sliding connection for soldered wires, runs great now. I have also removed the switches in the tanks as I have fitted a speaker and a "Biffosound" V4 chip. Now then can any one answer a question about the new circuit board? My eyes have nearly gone loopy looking at the tracks on it! Can I modify it to use the 2 spare outputs to be the front and rear tail lights? I have a poor picture of the card attached, Ian Maybe's a slightly drastic option, but I replace the board completely. I had to do it with this example as the board was actually faulty. You can see pictures on my workbench thread here... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64736-my-detailingrepainting-projects/page-62 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimbamoss Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Hi Lee, Thanks for the link, question for you, did you add any 1k resistors onto the output of the auxiliaries of the 51968? Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Hi Lee, Thanks for the link, question for you, did you add any 1k resistors onto the output of the auxiliaries of the 51968? Ian Hi Ian. I know for definite that the lighting boards in the nose ends have built in resistors so didn't add anything else inline with the power feeds to them. However, the cab lights only seem to have a capacitor on their tiny pcb and no resistor,so rather than take the risk I wired a resistor into their feeds just in case. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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