RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted June 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 9, 2014 Absolutely! Totally agree with your comments - one of the reasons why I go down this road You will fool any sound chip if you drive inappropriately - but far less likely with a properly tuned installation. Sound chips do force driving discipline in my experience - if we want them to sound prototypical then our driving has to match those aspirations! Kind regards Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PjKing1 Posted June 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 11, 2014 Hi, this isn't the new Bachmann 40, but whilst were onto sound decoders, here's two short clips of mine with Biffs sound chip in it, sorry the quality of the video isn't the best, but gives an idea of how it sounds if driven properly like previously said. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vIMxfFTI-Eo http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8w-Z07WEnZo Cheers, Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted July 2, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 2, 2014 We tried to feature D200 in our latest Abbotswood video but just too erratic! Can I ask please - has anyone running on DCC tried adding a stay-alive device such as ESU power pack to overcome the problems? Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted July 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2014 (edited) See post 35 in http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83923-d200-from-Bachmann-d211/page-2 for experiences with the ESU power pack as possible cure for erratic running on DCC with pick up problems - initial vibes very positive! Cheers Phil Edited July 12, 2014 by Phil Bullock Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted July 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2014 Got to say that my D211 has been a reliable and positive runner straight from the box, in fact it is better than average even over the few dead frogs that remain in the shed sidings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Market65 Posted July 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2014 Hi. Just to add that my D285 from D211 with the extra pick-ups is a really good performer. All the best, Market65. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted July 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2014 Think I must have some residual non conductive grease! P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drgj Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Hi, this isn't the new Bachmann 40, but whilst were onto sound decoders, here's two short clips of mine with Biffs sound chip in it, sorry the quality of the video isn't the best, but gives an idea of how it sounds if driven properly like previously said. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vIMxfFTI-Eo http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8w-Z07WEnZo Cheers, Paul In North Wales in the 70s there was a driver who used to put the locomotive from idle straight to full power starting from a station. I remember his second man saying how he didn't mess about with gradual power increases. Can you do this with your loco? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PjKing1 Posted July 13, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 13, 2014 In North Wales in the 70s there was a driver who used to put the locomotive from idle straight to full power starting from a station. I remember his second man saying how he didn't mess about with gradual power increases. Can you do this with your loco? Hi drgj Yes mate you can, you can open the throttle from idle to full thrash, I'll have a look and see if I've got a video of it, if so I'll try and upload it tonight, if not I'll try and get one done this week. Hope that helps Cheers, Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PjKing1 Posted July 13, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 13, 2014 In North Wales in the 70s there was a driver who used to put the locomotive from idle straight to full power starting from a station. I remember his second man saying how he didn't mess about with gradual power increases. Can you do this with your loco? Hi here's the link, hope this gives you an idea of what it can do. Cheers, Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Not sure about the model version, but I have had the privelage of driving D335 on a driver experience course and can confirm it is great fun leaving Bury towards Heyward and, having traversed the sharp curve just by the box, one is left with, "ahem", no option but notch 10 for the steep gradient over the Tram link line. Cheers. Sean. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIRTY DIESEL Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 In North Wales in the 70s there was a driver who used to put the locomotive from idle straight to full power starting from a station. I remember his second man saying how he didn't mess about with gradual power increases. Can you do this with your loco? That might be Mad Raymond, when the Amlwch Tanks had a 40 on it he would always get a run in front of the London's from the Junction. The guard would call the box and I would ask who's your driver? I use to always gee him up as he set off,as if he needed it!!!!! The noise was ace but the poor guard would hang on for dear life as the brake van would rattle though 55 points and though Junction platform. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted July 25, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2014 The stay alive in D200 has solved the erratic running - was performing very nicely at Toddington last night. Now just need to sort the derailments, where is that back to back gauge? Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crisis Rail Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Not sure about the model version, but I have had the privelage of driving D335 on a driver experience course and can confirm it is great fun leaving Bury towards Heyward and, having traversed the sharp curve just by the box, one is left with, "ahem", no option but notch 10 for the steep gradient over the Tram link line. Cheers. Sean. Yes! - done it myself Sean - all good isn't it? - apart from nearly mowing down a couple of line trespassers near Summerseat. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
southernelectric Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 So did Bachmann sort out the problems that a lot of the blue models had, with the model for the green non-sound (D369) version? Sorry if it's already covered in the thread somewhere... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted August 18, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 18, 2014 Got to say that my D211 has been a reliable and positive runner straight from the box, in fact it is better than average even over the few dead frogs that remain in the shed sidings. I wish mine was... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Market65 Posted August 18, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 18, 2014 Hi, southernelectric and Gilbert. I've just done a search of this thread and found the following: Page 25 shows how you go about fitting extra wiper-type pick-ups, by-passing the non-conductive grease problems. Page30 shows you Bachmann's modifications, by removing the non-conductive grease etc., I hope that this is of some help. All the best, Market65. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wirey33 Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 I'm thinking of grabbing a D369 from Hattons at £77 and repainting it Rail blue, probably going to be 40160. Has anyone updated the headcode box version to include the outer nose front handrails ? Apart from the handrails are there any other changes that would need to be included ? These 40 detail differences really are a minefield !! (Sorry if this has been covered in the previous 39 pages, but I couldn't find any info despite searching.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 I'm thinking of grabbing a D369 from Hattons at £77 and repainting it Rail blue, probably going to be 40160. Has anyone updated the headcode box version to include the outer nose front handrails ? Apart from the handrails are there any other changes that would need to be included ? These 40 detail differences really are a minefield !! (Sorry if this has been covered in the previous 39 pages, but I couldn't find any info despite searching.) Done quite a few of them now, pictures on my workbench thread. They are fairly straightforward to add. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45059 Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 I'm thinking of grabbing a D369 from Hattons at £77 and repainting it Rail blue, probably going to be 40160. Has anyone updated the headcode box version to include the outer nose front handrails ? Apart from the handrails are there any other changes that would need to be included ? These 40 detail differences really are a minefield !! (Sorry if this has been covered in the previous 39 pages, but I couldn't find any info despite searching.) You could always turn you green 369 into 40180, as it didn't have the outer hand rails. Problem solved! I'm going for 40181 with my D369. A former Springs Branch machine and one of the last to be withdrawn. (1/85) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wirey33 Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 I want a Scottish one and until I pluck up the courage to do the square boxed 40063, 40160 will do nicely. Looks like a fairly simple job, just wanted to know if anyone else had done it and come across any problems. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted August 23, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) Hi, southernelectric and Gilbert. I've just done a search of this thread and found the following: Page 25 shows how you go about fitting extra wiper-type pick-ups, by-passing the non-conductive grease problems. Page30 shows you Bachmann's modifications, by removing the non-conductive grease etc., I hope that this is of some help. All the best, Market65. Hi M65 - done both - mine seems to have a basic problem whereby decoder seems to get no juice at all at certain times- which suggests that even a stay alive may not work . Even though I've added extra pickups to the centre axles my local shop have had it back to have a look at. - I await developments Chris Edited August 23, 2014 by Gilbert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ghost of IKB Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Anybody converted a new spec 40 to EM gauge yet? Although it's easy to space the wheels/stub axles out further from the plastic gear it isn't a very stable arrangement. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted August 23, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 23, 2014 Hi M65 - done both - mine seems to have a basic problem whereby decoder seems to get no juice at all at certain times- which suggests that even a stay alive may not work . Even though I've added extra pickups to the centre axles my local shop have had it back to have a look at. - I await developments Chris My D211(now D200) was erratic but a stay alive has solved that Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted August 23, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 23, 2014 I want a Scottish one and until I pluck up the courage to do the square boxed 40063, 40160 will do nicely. Looks like a fairly simple job, just wanted to know if anyone else had done it and come across any problems. I'm hoping for a 40062 sometime; it was my last cl 40. One of my friends phoned my one night from Scotland, long after I'd gone to bed telling me it was on Haymarket depot - 300 miles from where I was. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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