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Bachmann Class 40 32-475DC and 32-480DS


GaryHN
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With all the reported problem I wonder how many folk have been put off buying the new version and are sticking with their older version for now........

I'm sticking with modified LIMA if that helps :mosking:

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After a bit of experimentation I am currently using the following CV settings with D211 Mauretania:      CV2  11   CV3  97   CV4   135   CV5  200   CV6   64    CV29   34    CV54   48   and CV55  10.  This combination seems to be working very well with the right engine notes.

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I'm sticking with modified LIMA if that helps :mosking:

What problems !!

 

It sounds to me that somebody on the production line used the wrong grease for lubrication as not all models were affected.

 

The new one does look better and runs better.

 

I believe that D369 is due in the shops early April.

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After a bit of experimentation I am currently using the following CV settings with D211 Mauretania:      CV2  11   CV3  97   CV4   135   CV5  200   CV6   64    CV29   34    CV54   48   and CV55  10.  This combination seems to be working very well with the right engine notes.

Thanks. The basic CVs are not far off one permutation I have tried, so I'll try those once I have put mine back together. The running has been good but I thought it might be worth having a poke around after a bit of use, whereupon I found myself removing small amounts of residual pink gunge from the gearing inside the bogies and the motor end of the carden shafts. 

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I'm sticking with modified LIMA if that helps :mosking:

 

What problems !!

 

It sounds to me that somebody on the production line used the wrong grease for lubrication as not all models were affected.

 

The new one does look better and runs better.

 

I believe that D369 is due in the shops early April.

Not sure why you quoted my post in your reply........ :scratchhead:

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I'm still sticking with the Lima ones at the moment. The old Bachmann wasn't much of an improvement and the new one I would want only comes with sound which I don't want.

I would probably still have do the pickup mods if I do get one anyway, If a bit of non conductive grease can give problems now what's going to happen when the non conductive fluff builds up in the same place.

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I'm still sticking with the Lima ones at the moment. The old Bachmann wasn't much of an improvement and the new one I would want only comes with sound which I don't want.

I would probably still have do the pickup mods if I do get one anyway, If a bit of non conductive grease can give problems now what's going to happen when the non conductive fluff builds up in the same place.

 

TMC are selling a weathered D211 as DCC fitted (i.e. without sound) http://www.themodelcentre.com/32-480dc-tmc-weathered-Bachmann-class-40-d211-mauretania-br-green-dcc-fitted/

 

You could ask if they'll sell one the same but unweathered.

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TMC are selling a weathered D211 as DCC fitted (i.e. without sound) http://www.themodelcentre.com/32-480dc-tmc-weathered-Bachmann-class-40-d211-mauretania-br-green-dcc-fitted/

 

You could ask if they'll sell one the same but unweathered.

 

I heard some retailers are swapping the bodies on the blue and green versions.

 

the original chassis for green versions are not plagued by the lube connectivity issues (AFAIK).

 

Were there any bogie/underframe differences between the 1960s and 1970s/80s locos, assuming they had the same braking/boiler specs ?  Bogie ends painted red ?

 

cheers

D

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Email from Olivia's indicating they have commissioned D333 (split box) in BR green. No mention whether it'll have yellow panel though...

 

Also some 37/4's and 37/9's...

 

is this a newsletter email ?  i cant see owt on their website..apart from 40145 being cancelled

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Thanks. The basic CVs are not far off one permutation I have tried, so I'll try those once I have put mine back together. The running has been good but I thought it might be worth having a poke around after a bit of use, whereupon I found myself removing small amounts of residual pink gunge from the gearing inside the bogies and the motor end of the carden shafts. 

 

I have just completed a few hours' cleaning out some residual pink grease and any other grease in both bogies of D211. If it is useful, the process used is below. Try not to wince when you read my description of materials used!

 

I do anything with locos in a large deep wooden tray about 14 x 18 inches, and 2 inches deep. (Raid the kitchen or cut a piece of ply and fit a 2x1 softwood surround). Nothing escapes or slides off it. Screws are put on a piece of sellotape stuck to the side of the tray.

 

Remove the 8 body screws. For replacing later, note that the main fan on the roof is at the end nearest the white "DCC Sound" label on the underside of the fuel tank.

 

Put the loco on a table and remove the top pivot screw to the bogie. When you lift up the main bulk of the loco the released bogie will remain, complete with its carden drive shaft which simply comes away from the the flywheel. Put all the main bulk of the loco to one side.

 

Turning to the released bogie, unscrew the front pony wheel and its sprung plate. Note how the sprung plate fits (there is a right way up, but you can always confirm in your mind by looking at the other bogie when you do the rebuild).

Then unclip the bogie detailed outer moulding from the main bogie structure.

 

Pop out the wheels sets. The first popping of an axle is a bit eye-watering, but having done one carefully, you will be confident enough to see that it's not difficult. Once everything is down to component items, it is ready to set about the clean up. My cleaning agents (believe me, they worked) were an eggcup with some malt vinegar, and another into which I sprayed some Cillit Bang "Power Clean Grease and Sparkle" (purple bottle) kitchen cleaner (The label says don't use it on wood, and a test on plastic proved all was well - after all, it comes in a plastic bottle). 

 

I then used a small modelling paintbrush to apply the Cillit Bang all over the gear sets (Note: Once the wheels are out you are left with 2 sub-sets of 3 small white plastic/polyurethane gears in the base of the bogie moulding. One set is gear-locked to the gearbox, but they can be turned for cleaning by revolving the carden shaft manually. The other sub-set of 3 gears are free turning once the wheels are out.). I then gently prodded and scraped variously with a cocktail stick, cotton buds and patted with a paper tissue to get off the worst of the excess. Make sure to get into the recesses of the teeth of the gears I then gave it a brushing over with Cillit Bang to dilute the remaining greasiness and repeated the prodding and patting. Next, another brushing over with vinegar and then, holding it in a paper tissue, I used an empty airbrush running at 65psi to blow out any stuff I couldn't get at under the gears. This residue was airbrushed into corners of the plastic moulding of the bogie and then, with a bit more vinegar brushed on, it helped to push the final bits into a tissue held up close to the area. This might take a bit of time if you do a couple of repeats, but as the worst of the grease goes, you can see what is grease and what is just the shine of the plastic moulding.   

 

The wheels were liberally brushed with Cillit Bang, sloshed with vinegar and then dealt with using the cocktail sticks, cotton buds and tissues. Once it looked grease-free, I rewashed it in vinegar and airbrushed it onto a tissue held on the inside of the wheel, and tucked under the gear. Then a final wipe over with a piece of tissue, and the wheels were done.

 

Once everything was degreased, the rebuild was straightforward. However, check the brass bearings on the (main wheel) wheelset axles. Two axles have bearings with a broad channel that sits on the bogie, and also a very narrow channel that takes the phosphor bronze pickup strip. The other wheel has only the broad channel for mounting on the bogie. This is the MIDDLE set of the three main wheels and does not pick up current. On the outer wheels you must make sure the pickup strip fits inside the narrow channel. All but one of my pickups fell into place automatically, but it was easy to lightly ease the other strip outwards a very tiny amount and then it all fell into place as the axle was push-fitted back onto the bogie moulding.

 

Once the first bogie was done and re-fitted, only then did the second one get removed to repeat the process.

Once done, the body fitted back on like a dream and the loco went on the track.

 

Does it work? Perfectly. At speedstep 1 of 128 it took 53 seconds to move 5 feet fault-free including crossing 4 points. There is no stuttering or hunting. A good indication of this is that a Bachmann coach, with the sprung extender couplings which they carry, doesn't judder along behind the loco. This is simply D211 out of the box, but now minus grease.

 

I hope this is of use. It was a very worthwhile exercise. If you do it, just take your time.

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TMC are selling a weathered D211 as DCC fitted (i.e. without sound) http://www.themodelcentre.com/32-480dc-tmc-weathered-Bachmann-class-40-d211-mauretania-br-green-dcc-fitted/

 

You could ask if they'll sell one the same but unweathered.

Thanks but I'm not actually gagging for one, If Bacahmann couldn't be bothered to make it without sound I'll pass until they do.

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If anyone wants to follow the atrocities I am committing to D211 in the name of getting a GSYP D200 you can follow at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83923-d200-from-Bachmann-d211/

 

Started a new thread to avoid hijacking this one - theres plenty of my woffle on the subject back up this thread

 

Cheers

 

Phil

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is this a newsletter email ?  i cant see owt on their website..apart from 40145 being cancelled

It was on an email explaining the reasons for the cancellation of 40145 (I had preordered it). For info the 37's are DRS 402 & 405, 37418 LL Blue, 37418 EW&S, and 37901 in Rf, Trainload Metals and Transrail.

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Were there any bogie/underframe differences between the 1960s and 1970s/80s locos, assuming they had the same braking/boiler specs ?  Bogie ends painted red ?

 

cheers

D

only thing I can think of that should be on green era ones and was taken off later was the drive off one of the axles that had a plate over it on the step, Im not sure if the green Bachmann one even has this however. this is a 7mm one.

 

post-27-0-21562000-1396272735.jpg

Edited by Michael Delamar
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It was on an email explaining the reasons for the cancellation of 40145 (I had preordered it). For info the 37's are DRS 402 & 405, 37418 LL Blue, 37418 EW&S, and 37901 in Rf, Trainload Metals and Transrail.

 

Because we haven't had enough 37/4s from various manufacturers in recent years... ;)

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A few green ones I have been repainting into blue. Have removed lamp brackets, added new handrails, removed grabs as necessary from the nose ends depending on what loco is being modelled. Finished and weathered these are going to be beasts  :sungum:

13619419055_de03b5b6b5.jpg

 

13619441593_f68935c612_o.jpg

 

 

13619421175_7994ac2d2d_b.jpg

Edited by blueeighties
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