Bachmann Class 40 32-475DC and 32-480DS

[DIRTY DIESEL]

Here is a pic of a  class 40 (40 010) I took at Rhyl in the 70s. You can see  a group of children beginning to climb into the cab. Busy on the platform beyond, too.

That looks like Ernie Hughes (beard) who worked on Rhyl platform (coach or Merv???)

[tractionman]

The first batch of 40s came out a few months before Bachmann price increases and were real bargains at less than £90 each.

 

This model is outstanding, I was inspired by the magazine reviews.

 

I suspect the next batch will be at least £140.

 

for those still looking: 

 

32-481        D369  in BR GREEN.         DCC Ready.                    £82.80               Now in Stock

 

 

plus, purchasing here http://www.cfps.co.uk/models.htmfurther benefits the preservation of these lovely machines!

 

 

cheers,

 

Keith

 

 

(CFPS member)

 

 

 

[Brian Hawkins]

An update on my earlier post (1027) I have received back from Bachmann my 32-480DS this afternoon via AC Models,they have fitted a new speaker, both bogies have been degreased and relubricated with electrolube,I have yet to test the locomotive as I'm rather busy this afternoon drinking copius amounts of carlsberg, all being well I'll give D211 a test run when I come round in the morning. :-)

[Brian Hawkins]

Happy to report that D211 is running perfectly this morning, very pleased with the repair work carried out by Bachmann.

[drgj]

Here is another pic I took, this time it looks like Sheffield. This was the Three Ways rail tour  relief and this loco is 40 018. It had a mad itenary and ran from Marylebone to Sheffield, manchester and was supposed to go to Harwich and then Liverpool street but had to turn  before Harwich as it was really late and was still hours late back. 40 067 did the last bit from March, I think. There was a 31 and 25 from Marylebone and some 76s on the 1500 volt Great Central line

Edited June 25, 2015 by drgj

[Pete22]

Well,

I read the concerns on this thread about Bachmann Mauretania, so I tried mine again recently and it runs very badly indeed. I have now taken the body off and firstly tried tightening the top bogey screws, 1 tightens up well & seems ok, but the other (on the non-driver end) does not, as the screw just seems to go further & further into the body of the loco / bogey ! is this normal ?

 

Anyway I removed the driver end bogey and unclipped the bottom gear cover. It appears that there is still far too much grease on the gear cogs and wheel axles, so I intend to try submerging this in meths to hopefully dissolve the grease...

I may also try adding some extra pickups, but I only have Romford 3/64th wide PB strips to hand, is this not too narrow for a reliable pickup ?

 

Will let you know how I get on..

 

Thanks,

Peter

[Market65]

Whatever you do, do not tighten those screws! That will not only ''thread'' them, but make the bogies prone to frequent and frustrating derailments. If anything, slacken the screws, just a little.

Then do seriously think about the pick-ups. On mine I added the extra pick-ups, as detailed earlier in this thread, and the change in performance is most startling! Not more stuttering, or stopping and starting, and the lights stay on all the time. Well worth the time and effort to get it all  done.

 

With regards,

 

Rob.

[Phil Bullock]

Andi Dell also pointed out at the weekend that a bit of float in the centre axle of the Co wheels helps - makes sense, makes the loco less prone to derailments - just extend the centre axle slot upwards slightly with a few strokes of a 3mm round file

 

Solved derailments with Pierre's D211 so shall be doing likewise with D200

 

Phil

[JSpencer]

My 40 (BR blue one from the last batch) is an outstanding runner and best DCC sound fitted loco in the fleet and I have about 30 DCC sound fitted locos, mostly diesels.

 

This model is really reliable, powerful and purposeful. Aside the DCC sound fitting and a very good running in when new prior to fitting, there are no changes made to the model.

 

I am not saying others have not had issues, just saying you can get this model to perform really well as is without needing to resort to drastic measures.

 

As a 1Co-Co1 model, it beats the old Lima hands down when it comes to staying on the track and pulling loads. It is vastly superior on any track work compared to Bachmann,s first effort with a class 46 from the mid 90s. It is generally better than the recent class. 45.

[Market65]

I will try and have a go at extending upwards the centre axle holes, for on a crossover my D285 consistently derails.

 

With regards,

 

Rob.

[Pete22]

Hi Rob,

No I won't over tighten the screws. When I took the body off, both bogeys seemed very loose, so starting with the driver end I was able to turn the screw 2 or 3 turns before I felt it nip. However when I tried to tighten the other bogey (it was very loose also), I was able to turn the screw 4 or 5 turns !, so on inspection I noticed that the screw head was disappearing / screwing itself down into the screw hole in metal body of the loco. It appears that there is no machined lip in the metal body that will contact with the underside of the screw head...i.e. the body screw hole is just a vertical hole with nothing to stop the whole screw going up & down in it.

I have yet to remove this 2nd bogey, spent the evening cleaning the 1st one, what a mess, Bachmann did not spend much time cleaning the gears/cogs out of old grease.

The drive shaft - someone mentioned in this long thread, that to ensure easy re-connection, they turn the shaft (and presumably the motor end coupling) to be at 6 / 12 o'clock. Unfortunately my motor & drive shaft have separated almost horizontally, so I am worried about re-connection. Any ideas on how to turn the motor to the 6/12 vertical position ?

 

Thanks,

Peter

[Phil Bullock]

Hi Peter

 

Its a bit of a faff isn't it but you should be ok with a flat bladed screw driver - it doesn't take much load to rotate the motor, just be careful not to damage the slots the pins on the cardan engage in

 

Phil

[Market65]

Hi, Pete22. First of all, the screws should not be as slack as that. I can see that you have had to tighten them up in the way you have. The screw which would seem to have no where to tighten up into needs one of those things (I have forgotten the name of them!) that is missing, to be put into place so that the screw can then be tightened up into it.

 

That was me trying to explain how I reconnect the cardan shafts on all Bachmann diesel and electric loco and multi-unit models. You do not need to turn the actual motor, just the ''cup'' that the shaft connects into. I just find it much easier if the ''cup'' is in that 6 and 12 position, however, 9 and 3 will also achieve the same result, so that the cardan shaft will then, with the ''wings'' on the cardan shaft turned the ''right way'', the shaft should just ''push'' into place into the ''cup'' on the end of the motor. I hope that I helped to clarify things here. If not please let me know, and I will try to further help you as much as I can.

 

With regards,

 

Rob.

[Pete22]

Hi Rob,

Thanks for your help & advice. I removed the 2nd bogey tonight and it all seems ok, just that the screw was not nearly turned into the hole enough.

I experimented with using meths as a solvent to clean the grease out, then I tried Isopropanol, but it is not a good solvent for the grease, so I ended up using some industrial liquid hand cleanser with a stiff model paint brush - this worked a treat and has dissolved the grease, just needed to rinse in warm water & dry afterwards..

I am now soldering extra wheel contacts (bit of a job) and I hope to finish it all in a couple of days time.

What a great shame that all this extra work is required to make the model run correctly............Bachmann should be paying me for my time !

 

Cheers ,

Peter.

[MikeParkin65]

Hi Rob,

Thanks for your help & advice. I removed the 2nd bogey tonight and it all seems ok, just that the screw was not nearly turned into the hole enough.

I experimented with using meths as a solvent to clean the grease out, then I tried Isopropanol, but it is not a good solvent for the grease, so I ended up using some industrial liquid hand cleanser with a stiff model paint brush - this worked a treat and has dissolved the grease, just needed to rinse in warm water & dry afterwards..

I am now soldering extra wheel contacts (bit of a job) and I hope to finish it all in a couple of days time.

What a great shame that all this extra work is required to make the model run correctly............Bachmann should be paying me for my time !

 

Cheers ,

Peter.

It must vary by each example. As I said earlier in this thread mine was initially fine, then started playing up so I cleaned up as recommended and is now fine again. I found Iso alcohol worked well in conjunction with a thin screwdriver and some kitchen roll. Overall I still think the original contact pick up method is better than the new and should be applied to all driven wheels.

[Market65]

Unfortunately Bachmann are applying the new pick ups to, as far I can see, all new models.

It makes me a bit hesitant to make further purchases...

 

With regards,

 

Rob.

[Phil Bullock]

Unfortunately Bachmann are applying the new pick ups to, as far I can see, all new models.

It makes me a bit hesitant to make further purchases...

 

With regards,

 

Rob.

Yes the warship has them too and requires the same medicine....how about the new peak?

 

Phil

 

[Gilbert]

Unfortunately Bachmann are applying the new pick ups to, as far I can see, all new models.

It makes me a bit hesitant to make further purchases...

 

With regards,

 

Rob.

I completely agree - my 40 was a nightmare til a stay alive fit by Digitrains

[JSpencer]

Yes the warship has them too and requires the same medicine....how about the new peak?

 

Phil

 

The class 85 also uses the same set up, but no issues there it would seem.

[DIRTY DIESEL]

The class 85 also uses the same set up, but no issues there it would seem.

My class 85 was a pain until all the grease was cleaned out, it's now run okay for the past few years.

[Pete22]

Well , If Bachmann are indeed fitting all their new diesel locos with this type of pickup, than I will not be buying any more, if I can help it.

I have spent hours cleaning the grease out, degreasing all the electrical parts & contacts, making new pickups and soldering them, fiddling with alignment & tension of the said pickups...........enough !!

 

Peter.

[brushman47544]

Don't forget there were in effect two separate issues with the Class 40s; the pickups and the grease. As far as I am aware only the Class 40s had the "wrong" grease that prevented electrical conductivity, which needed to be cleaned off and replaced with Electrolube or similar. The pickup arrangement has indeed be repeated on later Bachmann diesel releases but with the correct factory lubrication has not been an issue for me at least.

[Market65]

I must add that when cleaning out the grease, don't forget to clean the wheels.

 

Also, on examining the grease, it seems, in appearance, at least, to be the same as the grease applied to most other models. So clean it off them anyway.

 

I had to do all this with the class 85, 10000, various DMU's, and 37's. Also fitted them out with extra pickups.

 

Their steam loco's also have the grease applied in copious quantities.

 

 

With regards,

 

Rob.

[Pete22]

Hi,

Yes wheels / everything is very clean now...rebuilt it today and going to test it soon. Here is a pic of my new pickups (also an excuse to see if I can upload a photo !)

 

Peter...

[Market65]

That looks good to me. Just be careful when re assembling it. As I stated earlier, you have to get the "wings" on the cardan shaft to align with slots in the "cup" on the end of the motor.Once you have done that you should have a perfect runner.

 

With regards,

 

Rob.