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Tetleys Mills 3


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Tuvak,

 

You are a star. great links and now they are part of this post I can refer to them in the future, I can see I'm probably going to have to start modelling in red brick and I can certainly make good use of the various station pictures to create something appropriate when the time comes.

 

Meanwhile I have had a couple of afternoons pottering about in the railway room and today it's pouring with rain, just the sort of weather I like to get me working indoors. As promised or should it be as threatened? a few images, forget F stops and lighting and photo shopping more 'happy snaps' just to keep folks up to date.

 

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Is it me or does everybody's lap top keyboard refuse to cooperate?

A general view of the carnage that was a delightful new railway room.

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I have started fixing the supports for the high level country section, the MDF back board will eventually be cut down to follow the profile of the embankment and I'll just hope not to have an expensive de-railment. I have bent a strip of 6mm ply between screws to form a sweeping curve for the lower line but it is apparent that I need to reduce the disparity in height.

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A view from the opposite end with all the profiles fixed. I really do recommend an air brad nail gun and PVA, once squared for height and horizontal a few brads to secure it and next day it's going nowhere, no crawling underneath to screw. Really speedy but I am having to saw by hand, too much dust for the power chop saw upstairs these days.

You can just make out the mock up of the tunnel mouth for the lower level, the upper level will be 4' radius so I'll leave more exposed and scenic'd with maybe the odd over-bridge to break up the vista into smaller cameo scenes.

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I have now fixed the 6mm ply track base and planed a 45 chmfer to follow the profile of the embankment. I will eventually lay cork floor tiles with a further chamfer to represent the ballast shoulder. The ply strip standing against the bottom of the embankment will be the height of the lower track bed 50mm plus 6mm of ply and I'll have a low retaining wall against the embankment which will rise in height towards the far end which will be another tunnel entrance.

Must press on there's a railway waiting to be built.

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Thanks but ur the star of this thread and modeling world.

 

yes its bit strange about the red brick. Since most buildings and viaducts ( except of course some of the viaducts coming into leeds and the dark arches supporting leeds station) are stone built.

 

Nearly every old building/house in morley/batley, dewsbury area was stone built except when came to GN buildings.

 

I love height you got the for the embankment, they get pretty high round here,

 

The one on the huddesfield line i over look must be at 50ft in places and the viaduct at end road is certainly that if not higher.

 

I wish i could work that quick, when will be finished then next weekend :)

 

 

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I have looked desperately for brick buildings in Bacup but so far, for the period I am modelling, have found none which is a real shame as I have sheets and sheets of Slaters and SE Finecast Embossed Brick. Think yourself lucky, brick is easier to paint and weather, I reckon.

 

As others are on here, I am waiting with anticipation to see your new creation and know I won't be disappointed. Tetley Mills, as well as Dewsbury Midland, are the benchmarks I am desperately trying to reach. Seeing your previous layout made me think 'must try harder' and I know this one will make me realise I need to step up another notch.

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Seems like this part of the West Riding is a popular place to live and my oldest mate Martin lives off Teal Street Ossett, still think it's a shame Tetleys went all 'Southern Smooth Flow'. I might actually enjoy doing a few brick buildings for a change so Upper Batley may be built in that medium.

 

I managed another afternoon in the railway room yesterday and I feel another afternoon's work in the offing today, I've got some more images to post later showing the country section 'ground work' virtually completed. I'm running low on 9mm Birch ply and I need to order it so I may have to move across to the storage sidings boards soon.

 

A quick trip to Tescos to off-load some cash and then I'll up-load those images.

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I've added some profiles to carry the track bed for the lower level cutting but since I wasn't happy with the excessive height differential I'm lifting the track by about 50mm so I set the table saw fence at 41mm so all the profiles should be identical and the track bed will therefore be level. (I've checked it with my 6' spirit level and it is).

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I've added the curved track bed from 9mm birch ply, glue'd and brad nailed, all this construction will actually increase the strength and rigidity of the layout, now you know why I don't build exhibition layouts, I'd need a fork lift to move them!

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I have now fixed 6mm ply retaining walls to each side of the cutting and they are canted back 2 degrees from vertical to resist lateral ground thrust. I shall face these with plasticard or may cast the masonary from plaster. watch this space.

 

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A final picture of the finished cutting and hey! somebody has dumped a pint of home brew on the track bed, all the recent chat about Tetleys and Theakstones Old Peculiar I thought I'd introduce some 'Shakey's Sad Old Wierdo'! Second thoughts the beer was on the previous images, the 'sad old Wierdo' had already drunk it by this stage.

 

Unfortunately the barrel is now empty so my inspiration may be lacking for a week or two but so far I'm happy with the progress and I can visualise a WD hauling a coal train through this cutting between the two tunnel portals.

 

We are grandkid sitting on Monday so the teachers can have a training day so I'll probably update on Tuesday or just maybe, Sunday's work later on Monday.

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This is a snap shot of what I'm trying to achieve, sweeping curves amidst heavy engineering the visible length of track at this point is about 3m between tunnel portals that will hide the sharp curves at each end. The high level line being on the outside will enjoy a 4' radius curve so it will be scenic'd but may have some over bridges to disguise the severity.

 

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The result from Sunday afternoon's work, the high level line has received it's track bed glued and brad nailed to the bearers fixed some weeks ago when I posted the curved baseboard construction methods. Rather than cut a full semi-circle from one 8 x 4 sheet I use smaller off cuts to cut a series of segments and cut these to length to coincide with a join in the bearers. Beneath the high level circuit can be seen the various segments already cut for the lower level which as previously mentioned is raised on 50mm bearers that will continue the height through the main station after which it will drop down to a lower level beneath the proposed 13 feet viaduct.

 

Work is now on hold for a few days due to other commitments.

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Guest Linthorpe

Having seen the earlier variant in the mags, you often wonder exactly how long a project like this takes. I guess I am in the ideal position to find out now. Great thread so far, good luck with the rest of the project

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A reminder as to how the curved baseboard was made and a reminder to myself that progress is being made.

Sadly I attended 'yet another' funeral of a colleague today which is always a reminder to live every day and also justification in not having a 'retirement project that will take fifteen years to complete'. Each to his or her own but I'm going to get this layout finished just as soon as I can without compromising the quality.

 

With that thought in mind I'm back on the layout tomorrow and hopefully during Friday, Saturday will see me venturing down to Spalding for my only visit to an exhibition but probably the best and certainly more enjoyable than the rugby scrummage that is Warley.

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Having seen the earlier variant in the mags, you often wonder exactly how long a project like this takes. I guess I am in the ideal position to find out now. Great thread so far, good luck with the rest of the project

 

linthorpe,

 

Welcome to RMWeb. I'll try and keep you and other interested parties up to speed on the build now that my other building project has finished, in the meantime don't hesitate to ask if my ramblings don't make my methods clear or my reasons for doing things a certain way.

 

Dave

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Hi Dave

 

Looking very good so far. Way things are going it won't be long before we hear the beat of hard-working steam echoing off those Yorkshire hillsides.

 

A question for you! I'm currently looking for ways to get away from the usual plasticard stone for my new buildings and, given your expertise with Das, I was wondering if you have uploaded any of your techniques here on RMWeb. I recall an article you did for one of the magazines but like most of my books that has long gone! Regards!

 

Bill

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Hi Dave

 

Looking very good so far. Way things are going it won't be long before we hear the beat of hard-working steam echoing off those Yorkshire hillsides.

 

A question for you! I'm currently looking for ways to get away from the usual plasticard stone for my new buildings and, given your expertise with Das, I was wondering if you have uploaded any of your techniques here on RMWeb. I recall an article you did for one of the magazines but like most of my books that has long gone! Regards!

 

Bill

Bill,

 

I'll reply on the post rather than a PM in case anybody else is interested and please excuse the quality of photography, I had to find suitable examples from where everything is packed away and snap a few images in less than perfecr conditions but better than nothing.

Firstly I used Southeast Finecast 7mm English bond plasticard for a lot of my most recent buildings because a lot of stone buildings in Yorkshire featured semi-dressed stone of equal size in equal depth courses and the 7mm size bricks replicate this very nicely.

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This is a nice little piece I used to fill a small corner and then later added a bit more baseboard so I had to re-develop the back as a demolition site.This uses Southeast finecast plastic.

 

DAS

I still use this very versatle modeling clay but I don't profess to have cornered the market in it's use but this is my own technique.

Although it can be applied directly to wood or card structures I tend to use laminates on my buildings, a strong accurate 'box' of ply forms the basic shape. I then cut 2mm mounting card to cover the various faces cutting out any window and door openings, I do not detail interiors and in fact windows are often no more than clear plastic over a black painted back ground although frame details are later added from plasticard.

Prime the card on both sides to equalise surface tension using neat PVA allow to dry.

Smear DAS onto the card quite thin, you can get it down to about 1mm or even less, do not spread it on in flat sheets as I once saw some guy demonstrating, it is expensive, too heavy and would take an age to dry, I use a round plastic tube /plumbing wast pipe.

If you want rough stone now scribe horizontal courses, I use a sharpened old mini screwdriver and the vertical 'perts' / joints I use a flat dental probe which is also handy to shape individual stones.

Once dry I clean out the joints with the sharpened mini screwdriver and brush out the dust with a fine brass wire seude brush which gives a nice matt finish and slightly roughened face.

If you prefer finer dressed stone allow the DAS to dry before scribing as above but use the scribe / screwdriver for horizontal and vertical joints but brush out the joints as above.Any DAS that falls off just re-prime and replace.

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An early model and I spread the DAS directly onto a primed hardboard shell and scribed dry.

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I must get out more! This shot is of the approach ramp which I really want to use on the new layout but shows some of the over 12000 yes, twelve thousand cobbles I scribed for the station area and Yorkshire flagstone pavement all using DAS! others may and probably will disagree but plasticard cobbles and regular paving stones just don't look right for Yorkshire and regardless of the mind numbing repetition and aching fingers I will have to use this method on the new layout.

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Another alternative for impressive larger retaining walls is Slaters 7mm rough stone plasticard which I really like and will be using again, Gordon S used the same methods to very good effect on his Eastwood layout but note the wall is canted backwards to resist ground thrust and the pillars are vertical, a bit more work but so much better than a sheet stuck to a vertical hardboard back board.

Somewhere in this post I show my latest methods where I have made a master silicone mould of this particular wall and made several plaster castings reinforced with plaster's scrim mesh and I shall be using them in various sizes on the new layout to save time and the not inconsiderable expense of a sheet of plasticard these days.

A lengthy reply but I need to de-stress after a surprise visit from a brace of grandkids we were told of their visit but old age and memory and all that.

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Hi Dave

 

Many thanks for your comprehensive information. I've just got back from town with 5 Kg of Das (£3.99 a pack at our local discount book shop! Result!) plus a stack of mounting card so plenty to experiment with. A new venture for me as I usually build with laminated plasticard. As they say, the only way to improve is get out of your comfort zone. I recall the posts about your moulding system. A big improvement on plasticard for retaining walls, especially where they are curved as most of mine will be. The thought crossed my mind that this could also be a useful way of producing cobbles. Surely easier than scribing it all, especially if you plan to include prototypical camber!

 

Grandkids! Don't you just love 'em? I have three girls who have a girl each aged 5 and 3 years and 18 months old. Trouble is living at the seaside results in frequent visits. Not that I'm complaining mind. I just wish they would'nt keep trying to bury me on the beach!

 

Regards

 

Bill

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You really don't want to be buried on Morecambe beach Bill :)

 

Mounting Card is the way forward, cheaper than Plastikard, easier to cut, easier to glue, etc., etc. I too have a load of DAS but haven't used it yet.

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You really don't want to be buried on Morecambe beach Bill :)

 

Mounting Card is the way forward, cheaper than Plastikard, easier to cut, easier to glue, etc., etc. I too have a load of DAS but haven't used it yet.

 

I keep telling the gremlins that but they ignore me unless I bribe them with ice-cream!

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Take them to see the Eric Morecambe statue. Tell them that his grandkids buried him in the sand and he has been like that ever since, frozen solid and therefore unable to buy ice creams

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I'm pleased to add a new dimension to members modelling but I'll be using all these and any other techniques that present themselves, keep an open mind and use all of the mediums.

 

I've been working on the high level station area for Upper Batley but have run out of suitable plywood, that's always a problem, not the expense of materials but being impatient and cracking on with what's on site which is not always suitable rather than waiting for a delivery. Anyway, I'm now seriously in the groove so I'll find work somewhere and hopefully post the result with potographs albeit of questionable quality.

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