Crabster Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) 6 signals installed now on 9v DC/500ma power supply (regulated), but, as I said before, have a master switch between the supply and the signals, which I make sure is in the OFF position before I power up the layout, just in case...... All still working... David Crabtree Edited February 22, 2017 by Crabster 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crabster Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 (edited) I have now wired up 10 signals using 9V DC/500ma regulated supply with the master switch in the circuit successfully. But you must have the signals off when the layout is powered up, just to be on the safe side.... I hope this helps.. Edited March 6, 2017 by Crabster 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ghost of IKB Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 I take it all back! In the space of four days all three have failed, interestingly and annoyingly all three failed in different ways,but with the end result being that none of them now work as they should. Very annoyed and now rather less keen on buying the bracket signals, luckily not something to worry too much about as I will probably be at least 90 before they ever get released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hailstone Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 having come back from my club's open day where I had been exhibiting my N gauge layout Tremierten I decided to try and do something about the Dapol home signal which although lit, was not working. I removed it from the layout and opened it up, carefully unscrewing the circuit board. using a 9V battery I connected power to the signal and connected the 2 yellow wires to simulate a button being pressed. one of the components on the circuit board got hot very quickly, so I assumed that this was the cause of the failure. as an experiment, I then transplanted an unused circuit board from a distant signal that I did not need into the home signal which is not an easy job, and then reassembled the home signal. it worked a little and required several disassembly/adjustment/reassembly processes before it worked satisfactorily. I can understand why DCC supplies will not do repairs to these as it took me 2 to 3 hours to get it right, even having to re solder one wire from the motor which broke off. I am currently running it on 9V dc using a Maplins power unit, making sure that the power unit is plugged in before connecting to the signal, and so far it appears to be fine - watch this space... Regards, Alex 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TravisM Posted May 6, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 6, 2017 I read with increasing dismay as I wanted to use these signals for my N gauge Ais Gill layout. I have already bought one LMS home signal and had planned to get several others but are they really as bad as people are posting on here or have they improved? The layout is DCC and I had planned to operate them using a decoder but as I'm not very good with or understanding electrics or electronics, any help would be most useful. Julian Sprott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D826 Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 I read with increasing dismay as I wanted to use these signals for my N gauge Ais Gill layout. I have already bought one LMS home signal and had planned to get several others but are they really as bad as people are posting on here or have they improved? The layout is DCC and I had planned to operate them using a decoder but as I'm not very good with or understanding electrics or electronics, any help would be most useful. Julian Sprott Julian - I have purchased 8 in the past 24 months - only 1 still works. Lots of Anglo Saxon invective at Wood Towers over these I can tell you. Very frustrating and if it related to a model loco there would be howls of protest. I'm waiting for further reporting by others - now the wiring/power source instructions have been changed. My own straw poll sample leads me to the conclusion continued expenditure by yours truly cannot be justified. After all, they aren't particularly cheap. Kind regards Matt Wood 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TravisM Posted May 6, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 6, 2017 (edited) Julian - I have purchased 8 in the past 24 months - only 1 still works. Lots of Anglo Saxon invective at Wood Towers over these I can tell you. Very frustrating and if it related to a model loco there would be howls of protest. I'm waiting for further reporting by others - now the wiring/power source instructions have been changed. My own straw poll sample leads me to the conclusion continued expenditure by yours truly cannot be justified. After all, they aren't particularly cheap. Kind regards Matt Wood Hi Matt, At £30 a pop, no there not cheap but as I wanted the layout to possibly go on the exhibition circuit, I thought working signals would be a added draw. I'm just frustrated that Dapol must know about these unreliability issues but seem to have done next to nothing to resolve them. I'm thinking of writing to Dapol to ask what their policy is regarding reliability issues on these signals? Julian Sprott Edited May 6, 2017 by jools1959 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaym481 Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 I doubt Dapol have done nothing, as the bad press isn't doing them any favours. I do have a feeling they may be having trouble understanding exactly what the issue is, though they may be coming to grips with that given the new power/wiring instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenL Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Having bought a few of these a while ago and having yet to install them, please could someone pass on the new power and wiring instructions Dapol have reportedly issued? I've had a look on the Dapol website but can't find them. Many thanks in advance for any guidance anyone is able to provide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 7, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 7, 2017 Here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/122179-Dapol-signals-new-wiring-instructions/?fromsearch=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 (edited) As I posted prev. I have had around 20 Dapol signals since launch approx 75% were returned to retailer as failed and refunds given no problem! However since the recent change to instructions ie use DC power , I have purchased a couple more one of which has been installed on a layout under construction and powered by a 6volt DC power source, ( actually an old charger ) The signal has functioned perfectly for around 6 weeks, when I am working on the layout I keep 'pressing the signal's control push button' occasionally to make sure it is still working, As a plus point on 6 volt DC the signal lamp is less bright! ( than on those used on 16vAC) PS they will work from a PP9 type 9 volt battery if required. Another previously posted tip , but new users may find it helpful, if the actual sound of the signal's mechanism when working is annoying, wrap the motor section under the base board with a couple of layers or so of thin foam ( sometimes found in loco boxes) I find this muffles the sound considerably. Edited May 7, 2017 by Stevelewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Budgie Posted May 7, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 7, 2017 I still don't understand why they don't change the operating mechanism to use a two-way switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 I still don't understand why they don't change the operating mechanism to use a two-way switch. Hardly likely they would alter the system now after several years of availability, as it would mean a complete revision of the system at a cost, and it has to be said that given the revised power input info, the system does work fine just 2 wires to a simple push button or perhaps a couple of track sited reed switches if automatic working is required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzie Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 I still don't understand why they don't change the operating mechanism to use a two-way switch. It is quite easy to change the way it works to be both push-button and 2-way as well with virtually zero cost (just a simple firmware upgrade that will probably involve an hour of work from a software developer), but they think the current offering is perfect. Adding an integrated DCC decoder is primarily a firmware change with less than 10p worth of components but they are not interested in doing that either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris M Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 I have five N gauge lower quadrant signals. Initially I connected them to a standard AC supply from my transformer. They worked fine for a number of exhibitions but during the course of on exhibition they all failed, one by one, over the course of the day. Having thought about it I realised that my cdu is on the same power supply as my signals and I had installed a new cdu just before the exhibition where the signals failed. Not being an electronics expert the only explanation I can come up with is that the new cdu caused some spikes in the power supply that blew either the voltage regulator or diode in the signals. I would expect the signals will be fine if the new voltage instructions are followed and there is nothing else in the circuit that might cause a spike. It seems to me that the very small electronic components that have to be used can't cope with large currents and so long as you take reasonable precautions to ensure the voltage is within the new instructions they will be reliable. The mechanisms of my signals have coped with me pulling them apart, fiddling about and reassembling them remarkably well. I decided to make mine work connected to (on)-off-(on) switches. I also decided not to connect the lamp because it is very fiddly and you can't see a light on real signals during daylight. I fiddled about with resistors in the 12 volt power supply until I got the arm to move at a speed I liked. A number of exhibitions later they are all still working fine and I have every confidence in them. One issue is that using manual control they can go off the end of the gearing and get stuck. This is rare and is down to operator error. I have a little override button which will blast 12 volts through the motor. This makes it scream a bit but usually brings the signal back into use. A couple of times I have had to pull a signal off the layout and take it apart to reset it. This suggests that the internal mechanism would require quite a rework to enable these signals to be sold with this type of control. Fitting a servo to move the arm is probably a better solution if you have a means to control a servo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ghost of IKB Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) There definately needs to be an upgrade to the mechanics of these signals. All my failures have been mechanical not electrical. Edited July 26, 2017 by The Ghost of IKB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy100 Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 I recently asked Richard of DCC Concepts whether I could wire a Dapol Signal into a DCC Concepts Cobalt iP point motor. Suzie answered first said no and Richard gave a very cautious yes. Richard then set up a 24/7 test rig, and later replied saying yes it could be done and the test rig at the time of answering had changed the point and signal 1700 times with no problems. I have followed the instructions, and the signal works, but only on every other throw of the toggle switch. My Cobalts are wired for DCC (Hornby Elite) and toggle switch operation. The signal has it's own 9v 500ma supply and the yellow wires are placed one in terminal 6 (common) on the Cobalt and the other in 4 and linked to 5 (left and right). I had assumed the signal would operate together with the point on every movement, but as I said at the moment it's every other movement - but it does work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy100 Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 I can confirm that all is now working as I wanted. The link wire on terminals 4 and 5 on the DCC Concepts Cobalt iP was obviously not making contact somewhere - it is now. So now when I throw the toggle switch the point and the signal operate at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 There definately needs to be an upgrade to the mechanics of these signals. All my failures have been mechanical not electrical. I have purchased in excess of 20 signals I have had no mechanical failures all my failures were electrical, all satisfactorily sorted by Hattons, Since the change of instructions to Use DC Not AC I have had no failures at all. I am powering them from a 9volt DC transformer ( PS they also work on PP9 batteries as well!) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hailstone Posted July 31, 2017 Share Posted July 31, 2017 I have just powered up the home signal on my portable layout, using a 9v DC power supply after 2 months away and it worked perfectly. Regards, Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les1952 Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 (edited) I have one lower quadrant GWR home signal on Hawthorn Dene, repainted white with the finial cut off masquerading as an ex-NER slotted post. It is the nearest type I could find and it looks convincing. It has been in place since the layout was completed, and up to this weekend worked perfectly every time, though a couple (and ONLY a couple) of viewers have commented on the lack of bounce. The layout is often stored on end for a couple of months between shows while I work on other projects. This weekend it started by not returning to the horiziontal, drooping by about 30 degrees. It was fixed by blowing air down it from above. Les Edited August 1, 2017 by Les1952 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted August 2, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 2, 2017 This weekend it started by not returning to the horiziontal, drooping by about 30 degrees. It was fixed by blowing air down it from above. Tell us more!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted August 2, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 2, 2017 Sounds like a piece of fluff or a stray ballast chip has found its way into the mechanism and has been blown clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xm607 Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Has any one managed to repair the printed circuit board in one of these signals after a failure, I wondered what components were failing and could they be changed. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon H Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 Better to replace the circuit board with one that operates the signal in a sensible manner. MERG have a kit which does that job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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