Kirkby Luneside (Original): End of the line....

[Physicsman]

Hi Jeff,

 

Re: Weathering. I got a good tip a few weeks ago, "don't try it with acrylics until you are confident as they are near impossible to remove, keep to the enamels." Anyone got any suggestions or experience with these?

 

Mike, I know virtually nothing about weathering. But I'd have thought water-based acrylics would be easier to remove than oil-based enamels.

 

So come on - someone in the know, please enlighten the two of us.

 

For general paintwork - such as when I paint the bridge - I always use acrylics (Tamiya, by choice).

 

Jeff

Edited April 21, 2013 by Physicsman

[Peter Kazmierczak]

Progress has been a little slower than expected. Just about to start work on the walling and copings at the top of the bridge.

 

Here is where I stand at the moment...

 

100_2994.JPG

 

100_2996.JPG

 

100_2998.JPG

 

Jeff

Nice photo of your infamous coffee jar.....

Are you going to model the internal arch of the structure, or leave it as it is?

[ChrisN]

Just managed to catch up.  I do like the cuttings and the bridges.  As ever a work of art and encouraging to see it step by step which gives you ideas for the structures that you are thinking about.,

 

I will be interested in how you get on with your stone wall.  Perhaps if you can sort out a simple method we will all have to make a couple of hundred and send them to you.    If you start now then you can spread it out over the next couple of years of layout construction then it will not be one big chore, just a job to fill in between others.  As to what came first, the g**** or the wall.  You could grass up most places and perhaps leave lines of plain earth because whatever you do you will have to go along the bottom with longer stuff anyway, so the order is probably immterial.

 

Looking at the two bridges, not being a civil engineer, or even an uncivil one, it would appear that the one you are building is higher and therefore can afford to have a simple archereas the other one is lower and needs a complex arch to clear the trains.  Not sure what is easier to build.

[Andrew P]

Nice bridge pics mate, you are putting us all to shame with your skills. WOW :sungum: :sungum: :sungum:

 

NO IT IS WORTH ANOTHER SMILEY :sungum: OR THREE

 

Bodgit

[emt_911]

Mike, I know virtually nothing about weathering. But I'd have thought water-based acrylics would be easier to remove than oil-based enamels.

 

So come on - someone in the know, please enlighten the two of us.

 

For general paintwork - such as when I paint the bridge - I always use acrylics (Tamiya, by choice).

 

Jeff

Jeff

 

Try your ideas for weathering on a piece of scrap first and just do a little at a time.

 

The one person who probably gave me the best advice for the water tower was Polly.

 

Duncan

[Physicsman]

A further update.

 

Here's a comparison of the main line bridge and the 12mm ply base for the branch.

 

Those of you who are paying attention will have noticed that the main line bridge has received its stone walling above the road deck since the last pics.

 

When the walling has stuck properly, the Slaters will be levelled and copings - made from 80thou plastikard - added. Tomorrow!

 

 

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Nice photo of your infamous coffee jar.....

Are you going to model the internal arch of the structure, or leave it as it is?

 

Good question!! I was tempted to leave it be - but NO!

 

I'm going to measure out the arch liner using card, then cut a "proper one" using 20thou plastikard. I'll stick the same dressed stone Slaters onto this as I used elsewhere and slide the arch liner into place.

 

Of course, it won't go in as easily as that. Well, maybe.

 

I only decided on this course of action this morning, as I'm quite pleased with the way the bridge has worked out.

 

Cheers Peter.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Jeff

 

Try your ideas for weathering on a piece of scrap first and just do a little at a time.

 

The one person who probably gave me the best advice for the water tower was Polly.

 

Duncan

 

Hi Duncan.

 

It was Mike who raised the question of weathering. I'm quite happy messing with my acrylics on the bridge.

 

I'll certainly do what you suggest. For the viaducts I messed up a couple of sheets of Slaters before arriving at a method I was happy with.

 

Jeff

[Peter Kazmierczak]

Good question!! I was tempted to leave it be - but NO!

Good man!

[ChrisN]

Hi Jeff,

 

Re: Weathering. I got a good tip a few weeks ago, "don't try it with acrylics until you are confident as they are near impossible to remove, keep to the enamels." Anyone got any suggestions or experience with these?

 

I have had a little experience with acrylics.  I thought as they were water based and I was dry brushing they could be washed off if I did not like what I had done.  They dried hard very quickly and I could not get them off.  Fortunately I had not put overly much on so I managed to get away with it.  This was on a building rather than rolling stock.

[emt_911]

Mike

 

Looks like I might be doing EVERYTHING wrong with my weathering. I only use acrylics.     Oh well.

 

Duncan

[ChrisN]

Mike

 

Looks like I might be doing EVERYTHING wrong with my weathering. I only use acrylics.     Oh well.

 

Duncan

 

Duncan,

Well if it works for you, it can't be wrong. 

[emt_911]

I'll probably try something different next time.

 

Duncan

[Andrew P]

I have had a little experience with acrylics.  I thought as they were water based and I was dry brushing they could be washed off if I did not like what I had done.  They dried hard very quickly and I could not get them off.  Fortunately I had not put overly much on so I managed to get away with it.  This was on a building rather than rolling stock.

Hi Chris, to remove Acrylic I use either Acrylic Thinner or Enamel Thinner, On the van on the previous page that was sprayed with Tamyia  Acrylic and then used their thinner and a tissue to wipe it off but it will always leave paint in the recesses.

 

Bodgit

[Andrew P]

Hi Jeff, re the arch under the bridge, I am glad you are going to fill that in as otherwise you will curse every time you want a nice low level moody shot of the 8F coming through the arch.

 

Bodgit

[Physicsman]

Hi Jeff, re the arch under the bridge, I am glad you are going to fill that in as otherwise you will curse every time you want a nice low level moody shot of the 8F coming through the arch.

 

Bodgit

 

Funny you should say that. I was in the bunker this morning, checking up on the space available for rock faces in the cutting. I looked at the cutting from different angles and it was the low angle - I've still got the 40 and 45 in there - that made me think about the liner.

 

It's not going to be totally straightforward as I haven't built-in enough overhang on the arch rings. But I'll fit something, one way or another!

 

Jeff

Edited April 21, 2013 by Physicsman

[uax6]

Your liner may have to be skewed Jeff. Ie put it on the diagonal, sho that the stones go from the right side of the front of the bridge, to the left side of the rear......

 

 

Andy G

[Andrew P]

 

Funny you should say that. I was in the bunker this morning, checking up on the space available for rock faces in the cutting. I looked at the cutting from different angles and it was the low angle - I've still got the 40 and 45 in there - that made me think about the liner.

 

It's not going to be totally straightforward as I haven't built-in enough overhang on the arch rings. But I'll fit something, one way or another!

 

Jeff

 

 

You will need to borrow my HOT GLUE GUN then Jeff, hahaaaaa :dancing: :dancing: :dancing:

 

Bodgit :shout:

[Physicsman]

Your liner may have to be skewed Jeff. Ie put it on the diagonal, sho that the stones go from the right side of the front of the bridge, to the left side of the rear......

 

 

Andy G

 

Yuk. Nothing as complicated as that, Andy.

 

Jeff

[Jason T]

Jeff, for the underside of the arch, are you sure that the dressed stone will look right? I would have thought it was a bit chunky.

You do see stone built bridges where the arch itself (e.g. the underside) is brick, I imagine because it is easier to get a consistent size to ensure that it all holds together well.

 

As for weathering with acrylics, my only experience to date has been with weathering the stone on the various houses, etc., and it dried far too quickly and was a sod to remove. With enamels, not only can you remove paint for a long time afterwards with thinners (the bad weathering job I removed from the Ivatt 2MT had been on there for 5 years!!!), but you can also remove only part of it which allows you to add effects like streaking, etc.

 

Another example is what I was able to do with the Cravens DMU. I initially airbrushed dirt up the sides of the bodywork but looking at it later (and looking at colour photos of the units on the Bacup branch - and in the station itself), it became obvious that the bodywork, including the fronts, were kept pretty clean.

Had I sprayed with Acrylics, I would have had a right job removing it but as I'd used enamels, I was able to wipe thinners in a downward motion with a cotton bud and then wipe / polish off the excess with a cloth, which left the gunk where it should be (around hinges, etc.) but removed it from where it shouldn't be, with the added bonus that it polished the sides a bit, giving them a bit of a metallic sheen.

 

The advice that Tim gave me (and a few others have said) is that a good way of weathering shouldn't be what you put on but what you remove, e.g. spray on and then take it back with thinners to leave the muck where it would collect. You can then add a lighter dusting over the top, which will give the overall mucky effect but in crevices, etc., the muck would be thicker and more built up, which is what will happen on the real thing. Not sure how easy that would be with acrylics.

[Physicsman]

Funny you should say that. I was in the bunker this morning, checking up on the space available for rock faces in the cutting. I looked at the cutting from different angles and it was the low angle - I've still got the 40 and 45 in there - that made me think about the liner.

 

It's not going to be totally straightforward as I haven't built-in enough overhang on the arch rings. But I'll fit something, one way or another!

 

Jeff

 

 

You will need to borrow my HOT GLUE GUN then Jeff, hahaaaaa :dancing: :dancing:

 

Bodgit :shout:

 

Sticking it is no problem..... But it may end up being plain, if the "overhang" from the stonework protrudes too much. I'll look at that shortly.

 

Thanks for the offer Andy (aka "Hot Glue Peters" - reminds me of "MASH"!!  )

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Jeff, for the underside of the arch, are you sure that the dressed stone will look right? I would have thought it was a bit chunky.

You do see stone built bridges where the arch itself (e.g. the underside) is brick, I imagine because it is easier to get a consistent size to ensure that it all holds together well.

 

As for weathering with acrylics, my only experience to date has been with weathering the stone on the various houses, etc., and it dried far too quickly and was a sod to remove. With enamels, not only can you remove paint for a long time afterwards with thinners (the bad weathering job I removed from the Ivatt 2MT had been on there for 5 years!!!), but you can also remove only part of it which allows you to add effects like streaking, etc.

 

Another example is what I was able to do with the Cravens DMU. I initially airbrushed dirt up the sides of the bodywork but looking at it later (and looking at colour photos of the units on the Bacup branch - and in the station itself), it became obvious that the bodywork, including the fronts, were kept pretty clean.

Had I sprayed with Acrylics, I would have had a right job removing it but as I'd used enamels, I was able to wipe thinners in a downward motion with a cotton bud and then wipe / polish off the excess with a cloth, which left the gunk where it should be (around hinges, etc.) but removed it from where it shouldn't be, with the added bonus that it polished the sides a bit, giving them a bit of a metallic sheen.

 

The advice that Tim gave me (and a few others have said) is that a good way of weathering shouldn't be what you put on but what you remove, e.g. spray on and then take it back with thinners to leave the muck where it would collect. You can then add a lighter dusting over the top, which will give the overall mucky effect but in crevices, etc., the muck would be thicker and more built up, which is what will happen on the real thing. Not sure how easy that would be with acrylics.

 

You read my mind, Jason. The "chunkiness" was what I was alluding to in my previous post. I think it'll be a piece of plain plastikard, painted grey.

 

Thanks for the weathering info. If you look at the top of the page you'll see Mike's original post (#6001) which sparked the discussion on weathering. For my normal painting I've always used acrylics.

 

Jeff

[Jason T]

How about Slaters brick sheet for the lining? I have a spare sheet of plain bond I can send your way? By the time it is weathered up with 100 years worth of soot, it'll look the part and the relief of the brick will look better than just plain plastikard.

[Physicsman]

How about Slaters brick sheet for the lining? I have a spare sheet of plain bond I can send your way? By the time it is weathered up with 100 years worth of soot, it'll look the part and the relief of the brick will look better than just plain plastikard.

 

I'm not going to complain about that offer! Please send it by all means - PM me if you need me to re-send my address.

 

Cheers Jason.

 

Jeff

[Jason T]

Still have it from when the sheep decided that they would rather live on the fells than the streets of some grotty Northern town