Grasshopper John Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Coupling rods, drilled out the rivets on front and rear on both and fitted crankpin fixing washers. Going to do a dry fit now, will post a pic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Engineering, mighty impressive. Looks like we both have some time off today. Good luck with it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Coupling rods, drilled out the rivets on front and rear on both and fitted crankpin fixing washers. Going to do a dry fit now, will post a pic. Very nice job there, John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Engineering, mighty impressive. Looks like we both have some time off today. Good luck with it Cheers John praise indeed by a master of the craft. Very nice job there, John Thanks Mark, it was really experimental to see if i could fit the Triang coupling rods seeing as i'm using some other parts But not to be unfortunately, even with the washers they will not turn 180 deg on the wheel so going to have to use etched coupling rod as i've already been told by the pro's. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebbles Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 The problem is that the wheel centres on the Wills cast chassis block are not 29mm x 29mm, if I recall they are closer to 28mm x 28mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted June 12, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 12, 2012 Which is why Wills supplied the etched rods in the first place presumably Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Indeed Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 One side gears all fitted runs very well infact small problem, should the last piece on centre crnkpin be solid or allowed to rotate? when it rotates it unscrews the fixing bush. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted June 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 15, 2012 The return crank should be fixed to the crankpin and have a few degrees of "lead" so that the expansion link rocks from side to side like this: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Your a star Ian, how do you fix it to the crankpin ( wish i was in wigan just now ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted June 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 15, 2012 The instructions suggest soldering, which is pretty common with kitbuilt locos. Put a scrap of thin paper behind the crank then solder. Once fixed the paper can be pulled out. This serves two purposes, it gives just enough clearance for free running and it prevents you soldering the crank to the rest of the rods Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 Not much progress this week work interupted play and since i snapped the motion bracket had to wait for replacement anyway, been on a little spree again things bought this week, Motion bracket 25w soldering iron + 145d solder ( Bought separatley ) transfers and nameplates ( no boiler bands though ) but they are being sent. soldering iron stand and lastly some of these which have good reviews and are quite reasonable i think. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120930449245?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Regards John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 John Thought you had gone away on holiday as there have been no postings, before using the soldering iron tin it. usually before turning it on wrap some multicore solder arround the tip and turn on. Whatever you do dont clean the tip with anything abrasive as you will ruin the coating on the tip. Just clean the tip on a piece of wet sponge, dirty tips do not heat up fully I will be interested in those rolling road things, as they look to be a cheaper alternative, with the possability of being re-gauged Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Hello John, no such luck re holiday, work interfered with my new hobby, also breaking the motion bracket set me back. Thanks for the tip on the soldering iron i will do as you suggest I had a thought while working on it yesterday, can i solder the Return crank to the fixing bush rather than the crankpin? its a mighty tight fit when all assembled. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 John I use very fine multicored solder, so I can get small amounts of solder on the tip. When I use lowmelt bars I cut off small bits (then cut them smaller). Still use plenty of liquid flux though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Cheers John, this is what i intend to use not bad for 5 meters, i have multi core as well to tin the tip with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 I could not work out why i was getting some catching of the wheels then i noticed some scuff marks on the crank pin covers. So out with the file and now all is smoooooth it rolls very nicely on my work tray. The wheels are fine although the pic says otherwise, oh and i have done both sides Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Some slight modification to the motion bracket to stop it fouling on the center wheels fits ok and is free of the wheels, now for the gear linkages. Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 I could not work out why i was getting some catching of the wheels then i noticed some scuff marks on the crank pin covers. So out with the file and now all is smoooooth it rolls very nicely on my work tray. The wheels are fine although the pic says otherwise, oh and i have done both sides Grasshopper. Hello John, it's daft question time, now you have fitted the covers to the axle ends, have you fitted the gear wheel to the axle? The build of the frames looks to be coming along nicely. Why not change your moniker to Grasshopper. ATB OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hello John, it's daft question time, now you have fitted the covers to the axle ends, have you fitted the gear wheel to the axle? The build of the frames looks to be coming along nicely. Why not change your moniker to Grasshopper. ATB OzzyO. Ah Master you are wise but i am learning, the gear is in place but loose. Not a bad idea that OzzyO but i dont intend to be a grasshopper for long Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Looking good there John. One of my favourite locomotives and nice to see a kit built example rather than a modified Hornby! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Looking good there John. One of my favourite locomotives and nice to see a kit built example rather than a modified Hornby! Cheers steve, hope you keep popping in. Regards John ( The Grasshopper ) Edit: What is CAD Steve? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Only a test fit but looks ok, i have a snag somwhere so a bit of investigation on the running of the wheels me thinks. Any advice gratefully recieved. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Well its just dry fitted but getting there slowly. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Looking fantastic John! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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