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Looking fantastic John! :)

 

Thanks Cypher, i am still waiting for the body bands then i can proceed, i want to finish the body before actualy fitting it all togethe so when they are on i can fit handrail.

 

silly question, i cant work out how the rear of the frame fits to the body there appears to be a hole for a scew in the frame but nothing on the body.

 

will post a pic shortly.

 

John.

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As you can see there is a hole at the rear of the frame but nothing in the body/ cab floor i guess drilling out a hole in cab floor and inserting a screw from the top, ie the cab floor i assume there will be enough room as it is probably a 1 or 1 and half inch 10ba. any thoughts.

 

John.

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Small bit of progress got the body bands yesterday so thought i would have a go at my first serious attempt at the transfers a few joints had to be made but they are invisible, carried on with the tender and splashers looks nice in the flesh :) still only dry fitted Final assembly and pick ups to be done soon.

 

Grasshopper John.

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Quick update, here you can see the tender sides have been completed with transfers, cab side numbers put on, balance weights fitted and filled, name plates in situ, and last but not least the handrail trimmed at both ends and i will leave it nickle rather than paint it.

 

Grasshopper.

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Isn't modeling a strange thing, you think about the job in hand before hand and are prepared mentaly :)

and the simplest of tasks takes you unaware, the wheel weights have been problematic to say the least, all my fault, used too much adhesive ( not superglue ) and it has been a pain to get rid of the excess on the spokes, Ho Hum, if at first you dont succeed.

 

John.

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Well after being told by a revered and respected member of this forum what i needed to do, i quickly followed his advice and this is the result, although they were old handrail knobs they were split pin so took a bit of force to remove and a few body bands suffered a bit of damage nothing major but a bit of surgery required, my friend said if your going to do a job Bloody do it well :)

 

I quite agree.

 

Grasshopper John.

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Been a bit of a nightmare this week, i managed to remove the old handrail knobs but had to refine the holes to accept the new ones.

Then the problems started the body is a strange shape and i managed to mix small and medium ( dont ask ) so all medium at the cab end :( 4 of which refused to be removed and had to be drillled out, more filling and sanding i had to start the back again, I also managed to destroy some of the body bands in the process.

Anyway new knobs in situ some bands been touched up with patches just waiting for paint to dry to fit final two at cab end ( if i have enough ) bought some superglue gel as i will not be using ordinary superglue anymore bloody stuff runs and causes more problems

but it's all experience and a learning curve, should have taken some pics but was seriously miffed by something that should have been simple. Will post pics when body is back to normal.

 

Grasshopper.

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bought some superglue gel as i will not be using ordinary superglue anymore bloody stuff runs and causes more problems

 

Put the 'runny' superglue onto a plastic surface and use a scrap piece of wire to transfer it to it's intended position...no more 'runny' superglue!

 

Mike

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Quick update, all modern handrail knobs now fitted and brass handrail wire in place still only a dry fit but getting there slowly, all i have to do now is change the old nickle silver handrails on cab and tender to match :( the joys of modelling.

 

Grasshopper John.

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Quick update, all modern handrail knobs now fitted and brass handrail wire in place still only a dry fit but getting there slowly, all i have to do now is change the old nickle silver handrails on cab and tender to match :( the joys of modelling.

 

Grasshopper John.

 

Those knobs transform the A3, no longer looks like a 60's pretender, good stuff!

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Why do you not like nickel silver? It is ideal for handrails etc as it does not bend so easily when being handled. Also takes paint better than brass.

 

 

The model is looking better all the time. Well done.

 

 

Pete, the brass handrails look better IMHO and will be left as such, i took my inspiration from here:

 

http://www.loveless.co.uk/lner_a1_a3.html

 

The Pose. bronze is for the pick-ups.

 

OzzyO.

 

quite right Ozzy O master nickle silver pick ups dont work too well.

 

Grasshopper.

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Not much of an update the wife has told me to get a job :( after a breif chat with my friend he genly persuaded me to paint the handrails his superior knowledge on this subject far outweighs mine so i did,

 

Although i did like the brass :) still only a dry fit but getting there slowly.

 

Grasshopper John.

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It's looking fantastic John! The painted handrails really give the body a lovely look, I do have a soft spot for that apple green :) might have to find a reason! A gift from gresley to bulleid perhaps? Not a criticism, merely a question, but do the tires on the wheels need to be green aswell? - it would be fine as is and looks amazing!

 

Jack

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It's looking fantastic John! The painted handrails really give the body a lovely look, I do have a soft spot for that apple green :) might have to find a reason! A gift from gresley to bulleid perhaps? Not a criticism, merely a question, but do the tires on the wheels need to be green aswell? - it would be fine as is and looks amazing!

 

Jack

 

Looking good John, as Cypher has mentioned the return crank needs a bit of TLC, when the cranks are at bottom dead centre the return crank should be about 5deg forward of vertical on both sides.

 

IIRC the wheel rims on most L.N.E.R. locos were black, also the motion bracket would look better in black along with the lifting link that was not fitted to L.N.E.R. locos.

 

ATB

 

OzzyO.

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You are going to sort out the return crank on this side aren't you, John? It looks distinctly poorly ATM.

 

Otherwise you are to be congratulated. How does it pull?

 

Nothing is fixed as yet Jonathan as a newbee could you tell me what part is the return crank i'm learning all the time, the motor is not in situ yet so i have no idea how she pulls ( if thats what you meant ) :)

Looking good John, as Cypher has mentioned the return crank needs a bit of TLC, when the cranks are at bottom dead centre the return crank should be about 5deg forward of vertical on both sides.

 

IIRC the wheel rims on most L.N.E.R. locos were black, also the motion bracket would look better in black along with the lifting link that was not fitted to L.N.E.R. locos.

 

ATB

 

OzzyO.

 

Cheers OzzyO, i restarted reading your JLT thread again its amazing the skills you have. On Larrys photos ( which i follow ) none of the tyres are painted but i like the idea of them in black, again can you tell me what part needs a bit of tlc and what bits you suggested could or should be painted black. I got the crankpin spacers on friday so am now ready to start final lap of construction.

 

ATB

 

Grasshopper John.

]

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John,

 

This will tell you what you need to know. The one on the other side looks about right.

 

Yes, I did mean that - what motor and gearbox are you going to use?

 

Many thanks Jonathan,

ah I see, the return gear has yet to be soldered to the crankpin so its not in place yet, it is referred to as the valve gear crank on my instructions hence my confusion. I had some problems with the chassis so bought a new one from Dave at SE Finecast along with a mashima 5 pole motor and 3 stage gearbox, when it arrived it was obvious it was far too good to put on such an old kit so I put them to one side and worked on what I had. A lot of fiddling and filling and 2 motion brackets later It hasn’t turned out too bad ( IMO of course ).

But when I first bought the kit I purchased an airfix X04 5 pole motor and gear from Ian at Redgate models ( Lovely bloke ) this is what will be used on this one and probably the next because I have also bought another A3 body kit from SEF to go with my chassis J and I have a DoG on order from DJH so enough to be getting on with me thinks.

Regards

Grasshopper John.

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I'll tell you what, John, you've got more nerve than me - I've been building locos for 10 years and only done one with Walschaerts gear in all that time.

 

There have been a few DoGs built on here, so you should have a bit of reading to do before you tackle that one.

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