RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted May 20, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 20, 2012 To be fair, the chassis kit did come with cylinders and motion, but they were triang/Hornby Flying Scotsman ones. Clearly the original owner though it would be better with them rather than the modified Britannia items that the kit specifies. John and I decided to build as per the kit, so I supplied him with the necessary bits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 @ John, the Body was mainly down to my hamfistedness really John i should not be so rough with these things hey this is another challenge after all Talking of building or fabricating i am having a woeful morning two breakages the hand brake on the tender as i was trying to sand down and another can you masters guess what i have spent an hour making???? A clue its very very small John the Puppy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 John, i did a search for Jedinco but could not find anything do you have a link, i know one thing this is my last 40 + year old kit, Jidenco was sold on and became Falcon Brass many years ago. Now sold on again to Dart Castings http://www.falconbrassworks.com/ Metropolitan's comments regarding the cast white chassis are worth considering. I built the GWR County and Prairie using the original cast chassis. The bearings eventually worked loose and it was very difficult to fix. In addition the blocks warped over time leaving one wheel not touching the track. Both were replaced by the updated SEF etched frames and have given no trouble since. Good luck Mike Wiltshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 John I rember seeing how someone built hand brakes from brass tube,wire and very small washers from the spares box, much stronger than whitemetal, Sounds like we both missed modelling time today, mine was due to going out to lunch and sleeping off the effects of a nice Italian red. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 To be fair, the chassis kit did come with cylinders and motion, but they were triang/Hornby Flying Scotsman ones. Clearly the original owner though it would be better with them rather than the modified Britannia items that the kit specifies. John and I decided to build as per the kit, so I supplied him with the necessary bits. Not having an old chassis kit I assumed they were supplied as the GWR kits in whitemetal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 I thought i would hold my hands up and show you why i bought a new boiler this was trying to file away the amount of glue the chimney was stuck on with ( why didnt i think of nitromorse ), because i did'nt. anyway dont be to hard on me it was not all down to me honest guv. Luckily am still learning as i go so probably just as well i started with older kits to break my bones on. John the pup. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 I thought i would hold my hands up and show you why i bought a new boiler this was trying to file away the amount of glue the chimney was stuck on with ( why didnt i think of nitromorse ), because i did'nt. anyway dont be to hard on me it was not all down to me honest guv. Luckily am still learning as i go so probably just as well i started with older kits to break my bones on. John the pup. Hello John, I've seen worse and some of them have been painted. If it's not been said before, get some good handrail knobs. You are going to need some small drills, and pin chucks to hold them. Have a look on Eileen's Emporium web site. IIRC it's 1/32" for 4mm handrail knobs (it's a long time since I did any 4mm work). There is a direct link from RMweb to his site, but I can't remember where it is. At least you can have a practise on this boiler before you commit to doing anything on the new one, so all is not lost. Just shout out and someone will help, or more likely 20 of us will. Keep at my son, OzzyO. PS. the link is at the start of the Kit-building and scratch-building.section. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 I thought i would hold my hands up and show you why i bought a new boiler this was trying to file away the amount of glue the chimney was stuck on with ( why didnt i think of nitromorse ), because i did'nt. anyway dont be to hard on me it was not all down to me honest guv. Luckily am still learning as i go so probably just as well i started with older kits to break my bones on. John the pup. John Or pop it into a pan of boiling water (don't let the whitemetal touch the bottom) heat also degrades epoxy & super glue. As Ozzyo has said use the old boiler to try out things including the painting and lineing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 John Or pop it into a pan of boiling water (don't let the whitemetal touch the bottom) heat also degrades epoxy & super glue. As Ozzyo has said use the old boiler to try out things including the painting and lineing Have already done that John only reason i put it back together temporarily was to see how the spectacle plate and cab plate fitted, not the best but i will have to wait for new body before doing anymore work on it although i can use the old one as suggested to practice on, god knows i need it My Tender woes continue, am on 4th attempt to fill gap between tender top and front floor it's open so worked on it from below you can just see in the pic BUT i noticed that the rear wheels are stuck i mean solid they were fine when fitted until i fitted the buffer beam which quite nicely also locks up the wheels:( oh the joys of a learning curve. so raather than taking the beam off i will drill out around the flange of the wheel to free it up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 You say the joys of a learning. I have been making models of one sort or another for as long as I can remember. I am still on a learning curve. Stick at it. You will succeed and have something to be proud of. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 You say the joys of a learning. I have been making models of one sort or another for as long as I can remember. I am still on a learning curve. Stick at it. You will succeed and have something to be proud of. Thanks Peter for the encouragement, its certainly taught me a lot in the few months of my apprenticship cant say how much this forum has helped me along the way though the advice on anything has been top class what appears to be something major to me is just a blip to the pro's Regards John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 As long as you keep enjoying it that is all that counts. For me I get more pleasure in building or rebuilding kits than I do in running them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 As long as you keep enjoying it that is all that counts. For me I get more pleasure in building or rebuilding kits than I do in running them. Same here Peter, i dont even have a proper track to run it on, in fact i hav'nt realy got a train set but the enjoyment of finding out how these things go together is amazing, more into building than running if i'm honest. Got boiler today with all periferal parts from Dave at SEF needs a bit of work but thats not unexpected, finaly finished the Tender took an age to drill small holes around the buffer beam without making a mess of the wheels, but they are free now. Got some etch primer this morning but looking at airbrushes i am tempted tbh. we will see. Get some photos asap. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 John Lots of us have brought this make of airbrush, great for beginners and we have had good results. There is a dearer option with a tank, but the basic one is fine for 4mm stuff. Dont think I got mine from this company, but several firms on Ebay are selling the same sets http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRBRUSH-KIT-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-AIR-BRUSH-COMPRESSOR-/370268372610?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item5635b6fe82 Compresser, 2 airbrushes, water trap and extra hose great value. Some will say pay a lot more and buy a beter quality item, fine if you will do a lot of airbrushing. But a great set to learn on, not only to paint stock but also weather if you are into that as well. And if you break the airbrush you have a spare and they are cheap to replace. Tell your wife she can do her nails with it!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 John, My wife is going to kill me. That is all. John the eunuch ( This is before she kills me ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted May 23, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 23, 2012 John, before you take the plunge with the above (makes a nice birthday present don't you think ) consider seeing if you can get the set with a finer gravity fed brush, the difference between 0.35 and 0.3 is minimal, I wish I'd got a 0.25 gravity. Having said that I havn't used either, I bought one of these http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5893fd2bea when they were about 7 quid, the same price as a rattle can and very easy to clean out. Not great for fine work but if all you want is a spraycan replacement then it's ideal. Teamed up with the compressor above and I only buy 25ml tinlets and thinners now EDIT: Just checked their website and they do a 0.2mm nozzle as a spare, so they might supply it fitted for the same price ... and they sell compressors on their own Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Thanks Ian, too late i'm afraid i bought the set John posted, its going to be another learning curve and if i can master it i will prob upgrade to Harder & Steenbeck ( years away though ). Got the boiler halves yesterday need a bit of work done to them the one on the left i'm about to start the one on the right i have finished although you can still see a moulding line top and bottom i'm sure primer will cover it as there is no ridge whatsoever, but the ridge is actualy quite prominent. Think i need new files and a lot more emery paper John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 John, before you take the plunge with the above (makes a nice birthday present don't you think ) consider seeing if you can get the set with a finer gravity fed brush, the difference between 0.35 and 0.3 is minimal, I wish I'd got a 0.25 gravity. Having said that I havn't used either, I bought one of these http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5893fd2bea when they were about 7 quid, the same price as a rattle can and very easy to clean out. Not great for fine work but if all you want is a spraycan replacement then it's ideal. Teamed up with the compressor above and I only buy 25ml tinlets and thinners now EDIT: Just checked their website and they do a 0.2mm nozzle as a spare, so they might supply it fitted for the same price ... and they sell compressors on their own John and Ian If you look carefully one of the airbrushes enclosed is fed by a bottle from below,though I have better results from using the top cup fed version, each to their own though The problem I found using the one Ian showed is that the canned air you use gets too cold if used for long periods and causes problems with air pressure. This unit can be connected to the compresser though. The graet thing about the compresser is that the compressed air is virtually free, so much cheaper than canned air and works on demand. John you need to practice a bit first, Phoexix fast drying thinners is great for enamals. You need to get to know how to set the paint flow, again just practice on scraps of card and plastic. Its much easier to overspray an area without floudinf the model with paint. Get plenty of cheap white spirit to clean out the brush, though I have been told cellulose thinners is best, but make sure to allow this to evaporate fully before using enamals again. I have also been told that thinned Hunbrol matt grey makes a good primer. I see a new thread comming up on painting !!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Hello John, if you make some thing like this for your wet'n'dry used wet for removing some of the small ridges on the white metal, made these myself you can then make them with different grades of wet'n'dry on them. It will help to save your files. There are a few thing to help, when you use files on white metal, rub the files with chalk, get a file card to remove the filling from between the file teeth. You can get file cards for about £2.00 + P&P. on EBay OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted May 23, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 23, 2012 The problem I found using the one Ian showed is that the canned air you use gets too cold if used for long periods and causes problems with air pressure. This unit can be connected to the compresser though. The graet thing about the compresser is that the compressed air is virtually free, so much cheaper than canned air and works on demand. Sorry, I didn't make myself clear, I would never advocate the use of canned air, leave that to the temporary tattoo people I use the cheap airbrush with the compressor and at last I have solved my satin varnish woes. Going to check tonight that my top fed brush is the same as those offered by RDG Tools and if so will order a 0.2mm needle/nozzle - worth it for an extra fiver Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Hello John, if you make some thing like this for your wet'n'dry used wet for removing some of the small ridges on the white metal, made these myself you can then make them with different grades of wet'n'dry on them. It will help to save your files. There are a few thing to help, when you use files on white metal, rub the files with chalk, get a file card to remove the filling from between the file teeth. You can get file cards for about £2.00 + P&P. on EBay OzzyO. Thanks Ozzy O master, are they lolly sticks? i tend to be a bit heavy handed sometimes especialy on curves so for large amouns of flash i use a file ( or flat stanley blade ) otherwise its a thumb or finger job with emery. John & Ian thanks for the advice and help re Airbrush looking forward to experimenting, i have all the phoenix paints so i need to buy thinners as well i assume a 50/50 mix but dosn't that mean you have to give it more than one coat? . OzzyO this is for you sir please do not cry with envy ( or laughter ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 John The mix is about single cream thickness, will vary between colours and makes. Buy a large tin of Humbrol Black (you can use it for chasis detailing etc)enamal paint from Hobbycraft and just spray a few bits of card or plastic to get the hang of the best mix and spraying techniques. Offer to give the wife a fake tan !! Will post the bits on friday, not got my act together yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Well i've done some work on the body ( boiler ) rather pleased to be honest needs some refinement, i used the spectacle plate as a grip at the back and a small G clamp on the front to keep it place. I kept the original handrail knobs as it's an old kit which i want to keep as original as poss. Hope you approve. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 That looks like you will get somewhere with it now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 progess is slow Peter, but coming along. Another lesson learned this afternoon Build the body and Fill all the gaps Before fitting chimney, valve, dome, and saftey valves, it would make life a lot easier Grasshoper John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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