Hayfields turnout workbench

[hayfield]

Quentin

 

Its from C&L  4ZC101A  80 mm x 3 mm x 0.6 mm, the same as I use for common crossings if built as a stand alone unit

[hayfield]

 

Work to date on the complex, the turnouts are still being built, but the first two diamonds are nearly completed, but cannot be finished untill the complex can be taken off the building board

 

 

Closer view of the crossing, next up is the building of the double Vee of the 3 way

[PjKing1]

Some excellent work as always there John, if I had a hat on I'd take it off to you!!

 

Cheers

[mightbe]

That does look good. Is this the personal project?

 

One more question John, this time about the Exactoscale special chairs. For a single slip, would one need to buy 2 obtuse crossing sets and 2 slip road sets or just one of each? (in addition to 2 common crossing sets) I don't quite understand the abbreviations they use on the website and there isn't any description

 

Quentin

 

Edit: Nevermind! I see you've written this before. Only 1 of each.

Edited August 1, 2016 by mightbe

[k22009]

Anyone any ideas where i can get 15.2mm check gauges from for OO sf? as C&L don't seem to have them and my search on the internet has drawn up a bit of a blank

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[martin_wynne]

Anyone any ideas where i can get 15.2mm check gauges from for OO sf? as C&L don't seem to have them

 

Hi Dave,

 

This is a disaster if C&L are no longer stocking them. The check gauges are the single most important gauges in making 00-SF pointwork.

 

Although they are no longer on the C&L current web site, they are still on Google's page cache from June 4th, see:

 

 http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:CNbBKGdUOTAJ:www.finescale.org.uk/index.php%3Froute%3Dproduct/product%26product_id%3D8776

 

Try clicking the Add To Cart button on there and see what happens, or send them an email.

 

The only other source would be to buy the DCC Concepts 00-SF roller gauges and cut off the end flange at one end. But I'm not sure that they are made to the same accuracy as the C&L gauges (previously supplied by Brian Tulley).

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[Guest bri.s]

Hi Dave,

 

This is a disaster if C&L are no longer stocking them. The check gauges are the single most important gauges in making 00-SF pointwork.

 

Although they are no longer on the C&L current web site, they are still on Google's page cache from June 4th, see:

 

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:CNbBKGdUOTAJ:www.finescale.org.uk/index.php%3Froute%3Dproduct/product%26product_id%3D8776

 

Try clicking the Add To Cart button on there and see what happens, or send them an email.

 

The only other source would be to buy the DCC Concepts 00-SF roller gauges and cut off the end flange at one end. But I'm not sure that they are made to the same accuracy as the C&L gauges (previously supplied by Brian Tulley).

 

regards,

 

Martin.

I've just gone 00 and wanting to go 00-sf (or whatever it's called now)

I wanted to get those gauges but like already stated they arnt on the website anymore they were a few weeks ago

I was going to give them a call see if they're getting them back in stock before moving forward with 00 sf I think

 

Brian

Edited August 2, 2016 by bri.s

[hayfield]

Failing that DCC do two sets of 00SF gauges one for code 75 bullhead http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_375_376&product_id=12217 the other set for code 82 flatbottom (head is thinner) one is a standard roller gauge the other is a check rail gauge

[Stephen Freeman]

At a push you might be able to use C&L EM gauges (4-SF is EM gauge -2) so the outer slot goes on the vee (you'll need to put a flat on it of course) , the opposite inner slot goes on the turnout rail. The inner part of whih is (on mine anyway 1mm).

 

I do actually have both EM rollagauges and the check gauges and have checked that this works for mine at least.

[hayfield]

I have been thinking for sometime how to make a hands free common crossing jig, the one I use at the moment is fine but needs finger pressure to hold all in line

 

 

I use the C&L 0.6 mm copperclad strip (shim from an etched fret will work just as well) to join all together so I thought I could develop the idea further. I found a nice off cut of ply to which I added a wooden straight edge. I use 10 x 2 mm Ali bar for the Vee jigs and used a left over bit, which I drilled 2 holes to make it into a clamp

 

 

Using a couple of strips of copperclad as temporary supports I slid the Vee into place, then soldered a piece of copperclad to the wing rail

 

 

Both can now be put in place using a wing rail gauge and clamped together, then soldered together

 

 

By simply turning the Vee around and sliding into the end, I could then easily attach the other wing rail again using a wing rail gauge

 

Very simple to use and thankfully requiring a minimum of basic tools and components to build. If you have no Ali then some hardwood strip may also work, just need something around 2 mm thick to hold the rail upright.  

[k22009]

Failing that DCC do two sets of 00SF gauges one for code 75 bullhead http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_375_376&product_id=12217 the other set for code 82 flatbottom (head is thinner) one is a standard roller gauge the other is a check rail gauge

 

Thanks for that its not obvious from the website that the 2 are actually a track gauge and a check gauge.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[Stephen Freeman]

Looking at the photo you can see the difference, still cheaper to buy a set of of EM gauges though - you really need 2 of each.

[hayfield]

I have been advised by Martin in the past that it is preferable that check rails should be set with check rail gauges in P4, EM and 00SF gauges, 00 having sufficiency tolerance within the wheel back to backs to be set from the stock rail (providing its in gauge), though 00SF check rail gauges are fine for 00 intermediate gauge in setting the check rail

 

Some even build turnouts by fitting the check rails before the stock rails using the appropriate gauges. But its a broad church so each can equally use the method they prefer

[hayfield]

Been a week since my last update and things have moved on a bit, but time initially at work then removing 15 sq meters of baked turf (ectending the drive width wise)over the past 5 days have limited building time

 

 

The 3 way turnout is mostly built, but cannot be finished until I solder some chair half's to a couple of rails, as I am using a copperclad sleeper in place of a plastic on which will act as a tiebar

 

The final diamond is also under way, but as it has curved rails I have to wait for one part to set before I do the next

 

 

Selecting the chairs has been interesting as there are no chair packs exclusively for 3 ways, anyway this one is quite un-standard if any are standard to start with.

 

The part of the build which does not follow standard turnout practice is the first vee, mainly owing to the closeness of the second switch/closer rail which is caused by the 3 Vee being further away from the second vee, so in 2 places I used the centre parts of a block chair (from an obtuse crossing pack), then a few small and bride chairs. Still looks OK

 

The garden and work will continue to get in the way as I want to get the levels for the parking area dug out whilst the weather holds out, then 2 to 3 tons of chippings to spread out, so will spread my leisure time between both projects

[hayfield]

 

Sadly not quite as far ahead as I had hoped due to the drive extension, now working on the last turnout and the 2 way is waiting for the last bit of the second stock rail to be fitted, before I can remove the wooden timbers and replace them with the plastic ones (after trimming the copperclad strips back to the rail sides) I need to make the 3rd sleeper tiebars and fit them, Not far to go now before a final test

 

As for the drive way I have a tree stump (which is really not in the way) to dig out and 3 tons of chippings are due on Friday to complete the job, just need to box the tree stump ( will dig it out once the soil gets wet) in and lay the fabric liner. Then its back to modelling in my spare time

 

Just had a message from Peter at C&L, The Exactoscale P4 track bases will be normal stock lines, as will be the switch rail assemblies. Will order a few bases as I fancy building both a P4 and EM gauge turnout using the bases. I am expecting the former to be quite straight forward owing to the locating pips on the bases the EM one not much harder once the pips have been removed

[hayfield]

The P4 formation is nearly completed, just waiting for some chairs to set thoroughly and I need to solder the bonding wires to the switch rails prior to a final test

 

 

I have soldered the sleeper/tiebar/chair arrangements and finished off the obtuse crossings in the middle of the diamonds

 

This one has taken a bit longer due to work on the house, and looking at the options given to us my work/railway room has shrunk by 4' in length

 

A few more bits on the go and just about to order some Exactoscale turnout and crossing plastic frets, I have an idea about an even easier to build P4 turnout and another about adapting a fret to EM gauge

[Derekstuart]

That's good.

 

That's really good.

 

I am knackered just looking at it, let alone trying to build it.

[hayfield]

Would have been much easier if everything was straight rather than curved, had a lot of distractions during the build so short bursts of building rather than prolonged sessions.

 

Also I stop when tired (like now) as errors creep in and it takes so much longer to sort them out

[Derekstuart]

Either way, that's in a league of its own. It is almost as if you have gone out of your way to design the most challenging piece to test yourself.

 

Something for the rest of us to aspire to.

[hayfield]

These formations are not to difficult to do, agreed at first its best to stick to single turnouts and diamond crossings and become proficient making them first. However once you have mastered (if any of us ever do) the basics, nothing stopping anyone building simple formations, providing they have a decent plan. The most common fault I find is due to modellers wanting to build things as quick as possible, when in fact all speed does is increase mistakes as does tiredness. Also pick up tips from others, even those new to building track as they have fresh eyes on the subject. Then be self critical, trying to improve each time

 

I am thinking of running a small workshop on a Saturday in the winter/autumn, bring your kit/half built or problematic build free of charge happy to supply parts (at cost) if you do not have any, I have both tools and gauges if you have none, just 2 or 3 folk. Chelmsford area

[Junctionmad]

were all the chairs functional , or did you use your copperclad shim techniques ?

Edited August 25, 2016 by Junctionmad

[hayfield]

On this one all the crossings were on differing radii plus on ply the joins are not as strong as plastic, so both the common and obtuse crossings use 0.6 mm thin copperclad strip. Having said that the vast majority of chairs are functional

 

Had the the crossings been on a size that the special plastic chairs are made foe and on plastic, then I would be more than happy just using a soldered up Vee. Having said that under normal circumstances plastic chairs on ply timbers is a well proven method of construction

 

As I have said I am about to order some Exactoscale plastic turnout bases, these are for P4 but can be adapted for EM gauge, I am planning to make both a P4 and an EM gauge turnout using a soldered Vee only, just to prove/show how easy turnout building can be, also hopefully disproving the myths that building to scale is easy.

 

Have you a specific project/build in mind ? Happy to give my thoughts on the subject either through the thread or PM

[Junctionmad]

On this one all the crossings were on differing radii plus on ply the joins are not as strong as plastic, so both the common and obtuse crossings use 0.6 mm thin copperclad strip. Having said that the vast majority of chairs are functional

 

Had the the crossings been on a size that the special plastic chairs are made foe and on plastic, then I would be more than happy just using a soldered up Vee. Having said that under normal circumstances plastic chairs on ply timbers is a well proven method of construction

 

As I have said I am about to order some Exactoscale plastic turnout bases, these are for P4 but can be adapted for EM gauge, I am planning to make both a P4 and an EM gauge turnout using a soldered Vee only, just to prove/show how easy turnout building can be, also hopefully disproving the myths that building to scale is easy.

 

Have you a specific project/build in mind ? Happy to give my thoughts on the subject either through the thread or PM

 

no, have been building some 00-SF on thick plastic sleepers, I find the inability to easily " fettle " the track work , compared to copper clad a bit of a drawback.  with the plastic , one its set, it requires considerable effort to release the chairs. My next one is in plywood , so I see how that goes .

 

Im working up to a curved double junction !!!!!

Edited August 25, 2016 by Junctionmad

[PjKing1]

Wish I lived near Chelmsford John!! Although I've nothing problematic at the moment it would be great to pick up some tips off you in flesh

 

Cheers

[hayfield]

no, have been building some 00-SF on thick plastic sleepers, I find the inability to easily " fettle " the track work , compared to copper clad a bit of a drawback.  with the plastic , one its set, it requires considerable effort to release the chairs. My next one is in plywood , so I see how that goes .

 

Im working up to a curved double junction !!!!!

 

This could be a drawback, but with things like wing rails I make the angles slightly tight. Glue the half not next to the vee and let set overnight. The gap now between the wing rail and Vee should be very slightly under gauge, just slip in a wing rail gauge then again let the solvent cure overnight no need for fettleing.

 

If you use gauges there is no need to fettle, unless the gauge is too tight and will not let the head of the rail rotate, this will result in gauge narrowing.