Hayfields turnout workbench

[hayfield]

Well, most of us only recommend methods we have tried and found satisfactory, which explains why I have not recommended that method. But it sounds to me very similar to the approach recommended by Howard Bolton and gives him very good results.

Regards

 

 

Keith

 

The method I use allows me to tweak the crossing easily and perhaps gives a little more wriggle room when adjusting, making the a K crossing sub assembly may be a little bit harder for some

[Siberian Snooper]

Thanks John

 

I tried it before and it went into globules. I will try it again- maybe an old batch. PJKing also used the same method as you and he managed to produce some good looking track too, so it must just be me.

I put the sleepers/timbers in an old butter tub and pour in the Coloron and leave it too soak for 24 hours, giving it a shake now and again to move it around a bit. After 24 hours I pour off the surplus for re-use and the tip the sleepers/timbers on to a news paper to dry. If you want a weathered look, leave them in the sun for a week or so.

[Derekstuart]

Thanks Siberian Snooper. Based on the number of (very talented) people who are describing the process, it must be a different product I bought (either type or defective) as it would not take to the wood- even wiping it on with a cloth as you would for furniture did not work.

 

I shall mix some with various combinations of IPA, white spirit, thinners and so on to see if that makes any difference and if not I will go back to B&Q; it might be that I have tried to follow the method of someone like John who is using a version that is no longer legal due to [insert latest law here].

 

Thanks.

[Derekstuart]

Thanks Siberian Snooper. Based on the number of (very talented) people who are describing the process, it must be a different product I bought (either type or defective) as it would not take to the wood- even wiping it on with a cloth as you would for furniture did not work.

 

I shall mix some with various combinations of IPA, white spirit, thinners and so on to see if that makes any difference and if not I will go back to B&Q; it might be that I have tried to follow the method of someone like John who is using a version that is no longer legal due to [insert latest law here].

 

Thanks.

[Stephen Freeman]

Hi,

Sounds like hard work to me! I normally use fence paint these days, it's water based (Ronseal I think without checking), so easy to brush on and clean up, dries quickly too. Being designed for exterior use it isn't prone to fading. How black you want it depends on how much you apply.

 

I've used it on the track under construction here. Normally I too build from the inside out but for obvious reasons the single slip had to be an exception.

[PjKing1]

Thanks John

 

I tried it before and it went into globules. I will try it again- maybe an old batch. PJKing also used the same method as you and he managed to produce some good looking track too, so it must just be me.

Thanks Derek but I think I fluked it

 

To drain the sleepers I use this Derek, Wilkos Jackobean Dark Oak.

 

http://www.wilko.com/wood-stain+varnish/wilko-traditional-wood-dye-interior-jacobean-dark-oak-250ml/invt/0315908

 

Cheers

Edited October 13, 2016 by PjKing1

[hayfield]

Thanks Siberian Snooper. Based on the number of (very talented) people who are describing the process, it must be a different product I bought (either type or defective) as it would not take to the wood- even wiping it on with a cloth as you would for furniture did not work.

 

I shall mix some with various combinations of IPA, white spirit, thinners and so on to see if that makes any difference and if not I will go back to B&Q; it might be that I have tried to follow the method of someone like John who is using a version that is no longer legal due to [insert latest law here].

 

Thanks.

 

 

Derek

 

Check if its water or spirit based, C&L also do sleeper stain

 

I will check out Wilco's stain, but I think all stain these days are water based

 

John

[hayfield]

Hi,

Sounds like hard work to me! I normally use fence paint these days, it's water based (Ronseal I think without checking), so easy to brush on and clean up, dries quickly too. Being designed for exterior use it isn't prone to fading. How black you want it depends on how much you apply.

 

I've used it on the track under construction here. Normally I too build from the inside out but for obvious reasons the single slip had to be an exception.shirebrooktrack.jpg

 

 

Stephen

 

There is no one way which is correct, when I build complexes similar to this I fit all 3 common crossings at the same time, tacking the two opposite each other first then fitting arr the rest (common crossing) chairs to lock the sub-assemblies in place. I am not saying you have to do it in this order, just that I find it easier to do it in this order

 

Going back to an earlier reply there is certainly no need in both 00 & EM gauges so make the common crossings as sub-assemblies. By just using pre-built Vees the Exactoscale chair range can be used as a functional chairs for the wing rails, using this simplified method setting out the vee's may be the easier method but equally working from a stock rail would also work

[Derekstuart]

This thread is proving to be a collection of about the most talented people in this hobby. I feel well and truly out of place.

 

Thanks all for staining advice. Paul, I think that is the same stuff I use (though I had the brand named version, the containers are identical and probably made in the same factory).

 

John, re: C&L sleeper stain... what was the one question I overlooked asking you at Aylesbury? I'll give you a clue, it was "John, is this stuff any good?"

 

Stephen, I shall try that version too.

[Stephen Freeman]

Hi,

Memory failure! Just checked it is actually Cuprinol Black Ash Fence Paint as purchased from B&Q.

[hayfield]

This thread is proving to be a collection of about the most talented people in this hobby. I feel well and truly out of place.

 

Thanks all for staining advice. Paul, I think that is the same stuff I use (though I had the brand named version, the containers are identical and probably made in the same factory).

 

John, re: C&L sleeper stain... what was the one question I overlooked asking you at Aylesbury? I'll give you a clue, it was "John, is this stuff any good?"

 

Stephen, I shall try that version too.

 

 

Derek

 

No idea at all, sorry I cannot comment

[hayfield]

Just thought I would post this, little and large, a C 10 in oofs and a 12" radius 009 turnout

 

[hayfield]

 

The C10 is progressing well and should be ready for testing tomorrow if I get time as friends are coming tomorrow for a visit from where we moved from

 

 

Small amount done on the 009 turnout, this will be a stop and start project and will be taking a back seat on the work bench

[hayfield]

Not much done yesterday as our friends stayed all day and had a lot to catch up with, also the Blackwater Estuary was in full flow as it has a spring tide which covered all the smaller islands normally visible and came over the edge of the quayside

 

 

Sorry for the poor photo quality, 2 bolt chairs used in most of the places I use either check rail or common crossing chairs

 

 

Slide chairs using 2 bolt outers with normal slide plates, will get the slide timber fitted later and try to finish the catch point

[hayfield]

 

Check point in construction

[hayfield]

 

Tie bar/timber arrangements fitted, just needs testing, focus better on this photo

[hayfield]

Crikey a month since I last posted an item, have been away for a bit, work is very busy (this week looks like 47 + hours) and a few items on the bench which I have not had time to write up.

 

Been asked to make what was initially described as an outside slip from a layout plan (I think one of Mr Rice's), well after a bit of head scratching, help from both here and Templot club (mainly Martin) a solution to the problem is a formation which really is half of a scissors formation rather than a slip. Thought it may be of interest

 

 

Well the plan is on a building board, sleepers cut and I just need some daylight to fine tune the timber positions, it will have the 3 sleepers acting as the tiebar, these will be made from copperclad and metal chairs

 

 

[PenrithBeacon]

John,

 

Can you offer some advice? I am about to start building a small shunting layout. I've finished the Templot and I bought the last (or I think it will be the last) components from C&L at the Portsmouth show yesterday.

 

I have stuck the Templot plot to the single baseboard and my understanding is that the sleepers/timbers are stuck to the Templot using double sided cellotape, so far so good. But how do you get the finished section of track off without damaging it? Cellotape is very sticky!

 

I think I ought to add that it is the intention to building the track separately from the baseboard on a piece of contiboard and then add the sections of track to the baseboard as and when.

 

 

Hope you and yours are well,

 

Regards

 

David

Edited November 20, 2016 by PenrithBeacon

[N15class]

Nice looking crossing. Or is it classed an outside slip?

 

When I was working 47 hours was a short week. If shop fitting it could be a short weekend.

[hayfield]

David

 

I use very cheap double sided tape from Hobbycraft, its 12 mm wide.

 

I tape tracing paper over the plan

 

Cut a length (4" appx) of DS tape, then cut thin slivers length ways (either 4 of 5 per strip)

 

I then run a line of tape along each side of the turnout or formation (look carefully at post 791 & 792) and stick the timbers to it

 

I super glue the slide chairs to the stock rails

 

Just flood the tape with white spirit and the paper backing comes away very easily leaving the timbers in place, ready to lay

[hayfield]

Nice looking crossing. Or is it classed an outside slip?

 

When I was working 47 hours was a short week. If shop fitting it could be a short weekend.

 

 

Peter

 

When I was self employed I also worked long hours. I am supposedly now part time. one we are ready to start the extension (plans passed and seeking approval by building regs now) I will revert to 22.5 hours a week, normally doing 10 or 12 hours extra when needed, this week again looks like 44+ hours then back to a bit of normality, plus I have worked 11 out of the last 13 days and will be 16 out of 18 days, then a 3 or 4 day break

[hayfield]

Building the first bet is a bit like what comes first, the chicken or egg

 

 

Well the common crossings do, I have fabricated all 4 and now need to trim to length and add the stock rails for the crossing at the same time

[Derekstuart]

I have come up with a solution to that very dilemma with the work I'm doing.

 

It is called "stare at it for long enough, think about it and do nothing and eventually you lose interest and learn to play the violin."

 

It really works for ME. There again, if I had YOUR talent...

Building the first bet is a bit like what comes first, the chicken or egg

 

[PenrithBeacon]

David

 

I use very cheap double sided tape from Hobbycraft, its 12 mm wide.

 

I tape tracing paper over the plan

 

Cut a length (4" appx) of DS tape, then cut thin slivers length ways (either 4 of 5 per strip)

 

I then run a line of tape along each side of the turnout or formation (look carefully at post 791 & 792) and stick the timbers to it

 

I super glue the slide chairs to the stock rails

 

Just flood the tape with white spirit and the paper backing comes away very easily leaving the timbers in place, ready to lay

Thanks, John

[hayfield]

I have come up with a solution to that very dilemma with the work I'm doing.

 

It is called "stare at it for long enough, think about it and do nothing and eventually you lose interest and learn to play the violin."

 

It really works for ME. There again, if I had YOUR talent...

 

Talent, violin and me are words that definitely not go go together.