english electric Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 i thought something else didnt look right with the livery on the Hornby version and upon finding my photos from worksop open day on 1st sep 1991 just 5mins ago the penny dropped it has got a black roof and the real version had a grey roof but it could have had a black roof painted after the 01/09/91 so when did it get its black roof Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Illustrious37 Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 In all the photos I've seen it looks like a black roof, but then others have said that it was a grey roof. The Lima version was grey and didn't look right. Just seen one on display in Model Zone, nice looking model - shame about the Light fault though. i thought something else didnt look right with the livery on the Hornby version and upon finding my photos from worksop open day on 1st sep 1991 just 5mins ago the penny dropped it has got a black roof and the real version had a grey roof but it could have had a black roof painted after the 01/09/91 so when did it get its black roof Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Illustrious37 Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 It might be better to wait until Hornby have resolved the issue as tampering with it would invalidate the warranty (if anything else goes wrong). If memory serves me right they had a PCB fault with the first Class 50 issue (R2349) that affected the lights when under DCC, then they issued a replacement PCB. That may be a little harder in this case as it looks from your photo as if they've soldered the wires rather than using push on connectors. Now.....it could be me....with my dire electronics knowledge, but i would appear that Hornby have wired the lights up...somewhat completely oddly.... it would appear we have positive wires....going to negative...connections on the board...LED 2 and LED 3 appear to be wired backwards... any idea on what to move to where to actually get it to work correctly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold pheaton Posted January 11, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 11, 2010 http://www.class50.co.uk/picture/save0042.jpg deffo grey roof there, but im not sure if it got that repaint in preservation..... http://www.preserved-diesels.co.uk/2005b/50015_1.htm grey roof there as well whilst in undercoat so i reckon it got grey in preservation... Black roof there in 1990 in br service http://www.class50.com/c50_zoom.php?img=0881000028018 Black roof there worksop open day 1991 http://www.class50.com/c50_zoom.php?img=1151044049300 Black roof again believed preserved by now... service 1993...note black nameplates... http://www.class50.com/c50_zoom.php?img=0990000194018 conclusion....it was painted in 1990 in civils and is photted with a black roof in 1990 and still carried it in 1993 so im wondering if the grey roof was a preservation "mod" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillinghamgus Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 In all the photos I've seen it looks like a black roof, but then others have said that it was a grey roof. The Lima version was grey and didn't look right. Just seen one on display in Model Zone, nice looking model - shame about the Light fault though. it's a black roof the sky bleaches out the gloss painted roof. if the headcode box is black then so is the roof. I have this model and I am impressed with the sound even if I only have it on DC (Must get a DCC controller) sounds like 50015 too so I hope the other sound chips like southwest digital are more old style (back in the day) sounding locos? The lights aren't a big issue once Hornby advise what/how it needs fixing then I will do it, at first going forward number 2 end the marker lights didn't work but they have come on now/ the only down side it the fan belt is squealing does anyone know how to fix this apart from removing the belt? I also have noticed a battery box put on backwards and the one of the pins has snapped off so thats not good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
reevesthecat Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 I didn't realise and was pleasently surprised to find some sounds work on DC as well as DCC. Is this the same with hornbys other sound models such as the 60 and steam loco's? Can't decide about the lights issue, maybe will go back to Hornby when solution announced. cheers mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
english electric Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 has anybody heard of a remedy for the light issue yet from Hornby ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Depot Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 It does make you wonder, who if anyone ever tests anything! Perhaps someone should get a job in China doing tests on loco's before shipping!!! I had the orginal cl50, 035 and had to swap the circuit board in order to use DCC and a sound chip. it was straightforward since all the wires plugged in, this one however looks anything but if the board needs replacing/re-wiring! cheers Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D400 Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 I've taken the plunge and bought one these as well - not tried it yet however. Assuming mine too has the light issue has any progress been made of tracking down the source? If it is a wiring issue anyone successfully rewired there's yet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
50033 Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Afternoon Having watched lots of video's of the new DCC sound 50 015 Valiant, I am very tempted to purchase one, but with the current light issue I have decided to be patient and wait to see if the later release 50 037 Illustrious will be a better option. It seems there is still no word from Hornby on a remedy. Livery does not bother me as I plan to completely respray into my chosen period. In the mean time I am saving any spare money up to purchase sound for my other 50's. I think most will be Howes fitted but to get some variety I may well get a couple of SWD versions too. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D400 Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 So many blown LEDs later I've finally managed to come up with a workable solution to the lighting issue on 50015. Finally got one end all working (as well as fitting brand new LEDs! - long story!!) correctly late last night. Be warned however its not for the faint hearted - I suspect (cynically of course) Hornby's reluctance/delay with providing a solution to this officially is because there really is no quick fix - the main circuit board has been cut incorrectly meaning the outputs for the LEDs for the marker lights are constantly on regardless of what you do. To make things worse the polarity of this lighting circuits is the opposite on this model to all previous class 50s - 50015 has a positive common feed rather than a negative common return... The obvious thing to do was to wire the headlight and marker lights in the same circuit as the headlight is bi-directional and although in an ideal world the market lights would be independent I've settled to have them on with the headlight. However, because the resistor is on the main board simply wiring two LEDs to the same output on the board leads to them being "dim", and in some cases only 1 LED illuminating due to the reduced current caused by the resistor. The solution to this is to wire the LEDs in series rather than parallel - i.e the return (actually the feed in case as the circuit is "backwards!" but we'll ignore that for now!!) from the first LED feeds the second one which then returns to main board. Having completed one end - I shall do the other end (which currently as supplied) this evening and try and take some photographs as I do. Cheers, Bruce Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulliver Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Thanks Bruce - the simpler you can make it for us idiots the better!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinza Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Of all models I would have hoped Hornby would have got the circuitry right for the 50, given the original issues when the model was released and the need to re-issue circuit boards for the first release of models. Has anyone compared the sounds to a SWD version? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Of all models I would have hoped Hornby would have got the circuitry right for the 50, given the original issues when the model was released and the need to re-issue circuit boards for the first release of models. Has anyone compared the sounds to a SWD version? Within my fleet of 50s i have SWD sound chips , Howes Models chips and the Hornby sounds. My personal fave? well is a very close call Between Hornby and Howes . All three brands of class 50 sound chips sound and behave very differently . I think its good to have a bit of variety in a flewet as not all 50s (or any loco for that matter) sound(ed) exactly the same . Aside from the lighing problem, I love my noisy Valiant tfn Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D400 Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Thanks Bruce - the simpler you can make it for us idiots the better!! Sorry about the delay in replying – been rather busy of late – I did however manage to take a couple of photographs to describe the mod – so here goes. First of all you need to remove the end lighting units completely to make them easier to work on – de solder all the joints to main circuit board, but make a note of what order they are in first! For the record the feeds are as follows: “A†end: LED11 – – Headlight Return – Black Wire Left hand side LED1 – – Not Used V+1 – Common Feed – Black Wire Right hand Side LED4 – – Tail lights Return – Red Wire Right hand side LED51 – – Marker Light Return (Red Wire Left hand side, although we shall not be using it) “B†end: LED3 – – Headlight Return – Black Wire Left hand side LED31 – – Not Used LED51 – – Marker Light Return (Red Wire Left hand side, although we shall not be using it) V+1 – Common Feed – Black Wire Right hand Side LED2 – – Tail lights Return – Red Wire Right hand side Once you’ve disconnected everything thread the wires out and remove the boards. What we are doing is simply discounting the headlight feed from the common feed on the board and then connecting the market light return to the highlight feed so they are wired in series. We do this as follows: First with a sharp scribe we need to break through the “track†on the circurt board that connects the headlight LED to the common feed. This is located fortunately towards the bottom of the board and usefully is under the part ref: X002R2. As you can see I’ve cut through it between the second 0 and the 2. Make sure you go through several times and it is defiantly broken. If possible set up a test rig with a 9V battery and a couple of resistors (DON’T FORGET THE RESISTORS!!) to test the circuit – basically if connecting the black wire on the right (+feed) and black on the left (-return) doesn’t light up then LED then you’ve either blown it or successfully broken the track So having “broken†your circuits you now need to fix them! Turn the board over and fortunately the two points you need connect are right next to each other. However physical room when the board is fitted limits your options here so best option is solder a short section of phosphorous bronze strip across the return feed from the marker lights to the top LED spigot. And that is basically it! Well sort of… you circuit still won’t work as it now requires the marker lights (on the body) to be in place for both the marker and headlights to light up. However you can test it by connecting the two marker light feeders together with croc clips. Having completed these mods you will need to refit the circuits as they came out but with the exception that you don’t refit the red wire on the left hand side that used to feed the marker lights – as it’s not required now you can snip it off to neaten everything up. Good luck – oh and always be careful when soldering near LEDs they don’t enjoy heat for long periods! Bruce Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinza Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Within my fleet of 50s i have SWD sound chips , Howes Models chips and the Hornby sounds. My personal fave? well is a very close call Between Hornby and Howes . All three brands of class 50 sound chips sound and behave very differently . I think its good to have a bit of variety in a flewet as not all 50s (or any loco for that matter) sound(ed) exactly the same . Aside from the lighing problem, I love my noisy Valiant tfn Jon Thanks for that John, I have bought from SWD from the past so will probably go down that route. Can I ask what speaker(s) you used and how you have mounted them? Cheers Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Thanks for that John, I have bought from SWD from the past so will probably go down that route. Can I ask what speaker(s) you used and how you have mounted them? Cheers Duncan Hi, I mount a bass reflex speaker (from DCC supplies) pointing upwards on the chassis casting I think theres space to do this at either end of the loco - My preference is to remove the working fan mechanism and fit the speaker at that end (the no1 end) - so the sound can escape though the roof grill. HTH Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47423 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Have Hornby advised anyone if they are to cure the light issue.Not buying a loco at that price till they fix the faults. Cracking model though B) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D400 Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 Have Hornby advised anyone if they are to cure the light issue.Not buying a loco at that price till they fix the faults. Cracking model though B) Thank you for your e-mail and apologies for the time taken to respond to you Please return the loco to us with a copy of your receipt and this email. Please ensure that your name, return address, telephone number and email address are included with the parcel. We will investigate the problem and rectify it as appropriate. Our address is: Repair Dept Hornby Westwood Ind Est Margate Kent CT9 4JX Please ensure that the items are carefully packed and for your own benefit we would suggest you obtain a Certificate of Posting. Kind regards Customer Care I sent Hornby an Email on Feb 3rd - I finally received a reply today, however as I have "repaired" the loco myself I shall not be following the action advised which is to return the loco to Hornby at Margate. Any one else email? Regards, Bruce Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47423 Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 Thanks for the reply Bruce,glad Hornby are offering to sort the problem out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Housey_D444 Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Has anyone tried to put a different body onto this or is that out of the question? Before i go buy one i wanted to see if i can put a large logo body on it with ease? Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vac_basher Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Has anyone tried to put a different body onto this or is that out of the question? Before i go buy one i wanted to see if i can put a large logo body on it with ease? Cheers Go for it! There shouldn't be any reasons for it not to fit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Go for it! There shouldn't be any reasons for it not to fit. true - ive got a 'Lion' bodyshell on my 'Valiant' chassis and its all ok - even the lights still work wrongly I know on other Hornby locos - like the 60 you have to swap the cabs aswell as the lighting is wired different on the sound models. tfn Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
english electric Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 has there been any future news from Hornby in regards to the light issue with this loco yet and im still holding out on it at the moment, im thinking of getting it and just remove the chassis and refit the body to another Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
english electric Posted April 26, 2010 Author Share Posted April 26, 2010 ive tried fitting 50015 body to 50031 and 50149 chassis's and then the headcode lights dont work but they work fine when i put everything back on the correct chassis but it appears 50015 shell wont work properly on the older style chassis's so now im awaiting a reply from Hornby about sorting the problem with the chassis on 50015 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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