Weathering with ink and weathering powders - O Gauge Ruston 48DS

[Barry O]

]I have been doing a bit of experimentation on a Bachmann Mark 1 RF roof. Shaving the ribs down on the roof followed by a quick layer of grey paint followed by a bit of fine sandpaper to give it something like some of the shots Phil Parker took at the Midland Railex https://www.flickr.c...57646554807851/

I then followed up with a gentle wash of ink and water

 

 

[The Stationmaster]

]I have been doing a bit of experimentation on a Bachmann Mark 1 RF roof. Shaving the ribs down on the roof followed by a quick layer of grey paint followed by a bit of fine sandpaper to give it something like some of the shots Phil Parker took at the Midland Railex https://www.flickr.c...57646554807851/

I then followed up with a gentle wash of ink and water

 

 

[attachment=460337:Mk1 RF new roof (1280x217).jpg

 

I think its getting there - any opinions??

A bit too dirty to see

[Barry O]

Is that better Mike?

 

 

 

[The Stationmaster]

Is that better Mike?

 

Mk1 RF new roof (1280x217).jpg

Definitely - looks good too.  I like the 'sandpaper' idea - flour paper would be about the right grade for that (although I do wonder if you can still get it?).

[Crumplezone]

Hello Barry,

I stumbled across your thread after looking through a fair bit of the others and at first I did raise a eyebrow to using ink with weathering even though I've used ink washes in the past with warhammer 40000 figures, I was quite surprised to see the results you had achieved so I had a rummage around in the cupboard and found some old gamesworkshop ink wash tubs which were still quite usable.

Honestly, I've just spent about maybe 2hours on my 2-6-0 4MT and got this result with your method:



I've previously used humbrol weathering powders and then matt varnished to get horribly blotched effects so I was both surprised and pleased to see by using your ink method that the locos look better and the weathering powder doesn't really come off at all. I did require to add a drop of washing up liquid to have the ink adhere to the Bachmann factory finish but once it did and the powder went on the results really did start to show. I am quite happy to have read this method and been able to apply the method with practical results and happy with the results I got.

A question I'd like to ask, I worked on a Ivatt 4mt, it went blotchy over a period of days using a different weathering method, I managed to get the weathering off via thinner but unfortunately the cab side, emblem on tender and smokebox numbers came off. I'm just wondering do you have any sources/shops/sites available which supply transfers for 00 scale br steam locos as I'm going to have to get some to redo the numbering and emblems before attempting your method of weathering again on the ivatt 4mt.

I figured you may know a few places with doing weathering for so long

Thanks in advance.

[Barry O]

Crumplezone

 

looking good. I tend to use Modelmasters decals  http://www.modelmasterdecals.com/

 

They do some good packs covering loco numbers etc 

 

I also use Cambridge Custom Transfers  http://www.cctrans.freeserve.co.uk/

 

Hope that helps!

 

If you need anything else either post it here or PM me...

 

Baz

[SDJR7F88]

Hi Barry. Just wondering if you could do a sort of tutorial on how you apply inks and powders an RTR model, see CrumpleZone got some great results form it!  I'm very tempted to give your technique a go, as I must admit the sprays I use to hold the powders down are getting a bit of a pain.

Many thanks Callum

[Barry O]

Hi Callum

 

can do!

 

I have a Hornby 4MT to weather and will take some stage by stage photos..probably wednesday or thursday....

 

Baz

[SDJR7F88]

That would be superb Barry! Thanks you ever so much. Looking forward to it! 

[Barry O]

Callum

 

I will be down at Steam in Swindon in September - could you make it to that for some hands on weathering??

 

baz

[SDJR7F88]

Callum

 

I will be down at Steam in Swindon in September - could you make it to that for some hands on weathering??

 

baz

That would be super! Sadly I might not be going this year though, I might be going to Duxford for there airshow to see the two Lancaster's in action. Will message you when I know. 

[Barry O]

I promised to do a step by step weathering a loco...

Well, time to make a start.

 

I found a nice colour Photograph of Southern Region 4-6-0 4MTs in the Final volume of the RCTS overview of BR Standard Steam Locomotives. I removed the loco from its box and added the brake pull rods etc

 

.

 

I then removed the plastic coal from the tender and added real coal.

 

 

I use a ink.water mix as a basis for my weathering. In this case it is Rotring drawing ink (black) let down 50/50 with water.

 

 

I selected a crew and gave them a ink/water wash first.

 

Starting with the tender I take some of the ink/water on a paint brush and spread it along the top of the tender.

 

 

then, using a piece of soft foam ( in this instance a make-up wedge from Superdrug) spread teh ink down the body... remember Mr N Ewton still works in all scales and gauges. Make sure it covers everywhere. Any finger marks will show up now- just keep working the ink/water mix on these areas and they will remove the finger marks.

 

 

 

and do the same with the locomotive..

 

 

next up will be the chassis... followed by powders..

 

Baz

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[trisonic]

Tasty, so far, Baz.

 

I bought surgeon’s vinyl gloves for handling stock for painting. Grip well too.

 

Best, Pete.

[Barry O]

Pete,

I use similar gloves while weathering. It helps to grip the loco without leaving fingermarks...next installment will be tomorrow.

Baz

[Barry O]

Taking photos of yourself doing some weathering does cause some technical issues(!)

 

Anyway  onwards and...some necessities..

 

 

A good colour photo, pots of weathering powder, brushes, a box (to catch all excess powder in , paper covering work place and... a cup of tea!

(the pile of minerals are some more for weathering...) What isn't visible is the face mask I use to protect me from the dust.

So you put the loco in the box  once the ink is dry

 

 

and using a soft (makeup) brush add some dark (black in this case) powder as shown by the reference photograph.

 

 

the more you use the more you may need to catch in the box.

 

Next up brush the powder down the loco using a soft brush (again this is a make up brush)

 

 

a little ink along the boiler/footplate joint allows a build up of dirt along this joint. It is where (from observation) "crud" collects on a loco even if it is a cleaned loco

 

 

 

And, for this loco the photo shows a greyish patch on the side of the smokebox - something I have seen on other locos

 

 

Tap the loco on the bottom of the weathering box to get rid of loose powder

 

The tender body is done in the same way.... next up underframes..

 

but that will probably be next week as umpiring comes first at weekends!

 

Baz

 

 

edited to add bits I had missed - in Bold

Edited September 1, 2014 by Barry O

[Barry O]

Nearly done!

 

Underframes and motion to do.

 

The tender is easy - just like the bodywork cover the underframe in the ink/water mix. Let it dry then add underframe dirt.

 

 

My underframe  dirt is a mix of the sweepings from the weathering box its a brownish/blackish/greyish colour.

 

Add some ink to the buffer heads and .. just before its dry add powder.. 

 

The loco chassis is done in a different way in that the inl and water mix is brushed on all over (including wheels and motion) 

 

 

Before its dry  add the powder by tapping the soft brush over it to let the powder drop on the chassis. Remember to move the wheels round to get them weathered all over.

 You can also wipe the wheels clean while doing this using a soft cloth or cotton wool bud on the backs and treads of the tyres.

 

This shows the outcomes of "dobbing" the powder  on..

 

 

 

Tap the loco up on the bottom of the box to get rid of loose powder and then do the other side once the first side is dry.

 

(NB this picture should be blurred as its me tapping the loco in the bottom of the box..)

 

 

(Pete note the gloves)

 

and the other side..

 

 

 from the photo of the original you will notice the cylinder ends are "rusty" so a bit more dust on them..

 

 

and....

 

 

 

job done..

 

Areas of grease/rust etc can be highlighted with some ink/water then a suitable colour of powder..

 

Hope this helps 

 

Baz

 

edited with a slightly better shot of the completed loco... need to get some photo tips off Tony Wright and Andy Y!!

Edited September 3, 2014 by Barry O

[SDJR7F88]

Thanks for doing this Barry! She looks superb!   Turns out I maybe able to make it to Swindon after all, so really look forward to seeing how to do it in the flesh! 

[Barry O]

Callum

 

will be good to see you . by then this loco should be back in Oz.....

 

baz

[SDJR7F88]

Wow! Quite a distance! Still very much looking forward to have a few pointers 

[Barry O]

Callum, I hope to bring some test pieces to let people have a go at but if you have a way on you want to try out fetch one along..that's the same for everyone else coming to Steam.

[SDJR7F88]

Callum, I hope to bring some test pieces to let people have a go at but if you have a way on you want to try out fetch one along..that's the same for everyone else coming to Steam.

Was just about to ask the same thing . I have a Bachmann TTA Tanker which I messed up, an old Airfix Large Prairie Kit and a Hornby A4 body shell. Would those item be suitable? 

[Barry O]

Yep

 

fetch them along and lets do some weathering! (and fetch any photos for the real thing if you can).

 

barry

[Peter Kazmierczak]

Barry,

Just wondering if you've ever used Derwent Inktense coloured ink pencils for weathering locos and stock?

 

I find them very effective on buildings, but haven't tried them on rolling stock.

[Barry O]

Barry,

Just wondering if you've ever used Derwent Inktense coloured ink pencils for weathering locos and stock?

 

I find them very effective on buildings, but haven't tried them on rolling stock.

Peter,

Not yet but interested in trying them.where do you get them from please?

Baz

[Peter Kazmierczak]

Hello Barry,

I got mine from "The Range", one of the chain of home, leisure and garden stores. I know "Hobbycraft" also sell them, but they tend to charge full price.

 

They can also be found on "Amazon".

 

I used these pencils in the stonework above and below the window in this photo.

 

Regards,

Peter