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Weathering with ink and weathering powders - O Gauge Ruston 48DS


Barry O
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Very good Baz.

Do you own a so called Blender Brush? Or tried one to smooth transitions inside the wagons for example? 

I’m always browsing the "make up” sections of Phamracies (yes, I ignore any comments) They have some great cheap Blender Brushes!

 

Keep up the good work, you appear to have infinite patience (I’m a lousy teacher)...

 

Best, Pete.

Yes I think I have what you mean... its scary going into the local SuperDr"g asking to feel how soft the make up brushes are...

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I have been busy with work but have managed to finally get a couple of brake van sleds modified for use on Grantham. They started off as Airfix Brake vans - change the handrails, lamp brackets the roof detail and the step boards and ....

 

post-7650-0-29038300-1414604952_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Barry,

 

I have been following your thread with interest and will soon be having a try. One question please.

 

You mostly seem to be suggesting adding the powder to the ink when it is dry to the touch - I assume this is before it is 'bone dry'.

 

However, I have also seen reference to adding it to wet ink.

 

Under what circumstances are these seemingly different approaches best utilised?

 

Thanks

 

Graham

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Hi Graham

Ilet the ink dry to the touch before i add general dirt.

If you add powder while the ink is still damp you can build up patches of rust, as well as layers of texture. (Such as along the lower edges of a smokebox where you get a mix of soot, coal,gunk etc)

 

Will post some picks later

Baz

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Hi Graham

Ilet the ink dry to the touch before i add general dirt.

If you add powder while the ink is still damp you can build up patches of rust, as well as layers of texture. (Such as along the lower edges of a smokebox where you get a mix of soot, coal,gunk etc)

 

Will post some picks later

Baz

 

Thanks Barry, I understand what you are saying now.

 

Graham

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Fish vans don't you just love them........

 

Some ex LNER designed ones in chronological order..

 

post-7650-0-34263800-1418741601_thumb.jpg

 

"Shorty" fish - Bachmann weathered

 

post-7650-0-81988000-1418741618_thumb.jpg

 

long wheel base Parkside kit

 

post-7650-0-98477600-1418741656_thumb.jpg

 

long wheelbase insulfish  Parkside kit

 

and

 

post-7650-0-26004000-1418741637_thumb.jpg

 

Long wheelbase Insulfish - pre roller bearing so not a Blue Spot.. Parkside

 

Baz

 

 

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Thanks Barry, I understand what you are saying now.

 

Graham

Graham

 

the underframes and edges on the fish vans above have the powders added while the ink is wet.. provides a "texture" to teh weathering..

 

Baz

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Graham

 

the underframes and edges on the fish vans above have the powders added while the ink is wet.. provides a "texture" to teh weathering..

 

Baz

 

Thanks for that Barry.  The texture on the frames is very effective.

 

Graham

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Hi Barry

 

I've asked a similar question on a separate thread, so I hope you don't mind me asking the question here as well.

 

I've got a Heljan Class 15 to weather - as I wanted an all green one, I had to get a high gloss loco (all the non high gloss locos had yellow panels which are too late for me) and it's the high gloss that's causing me problems with the weathering. What suggestions would you have about how to deal with the loco?

 

Thanks and happy new year.

 

Phil

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Phil

 

sorry for the delay in replying.. missed this in my end of year/New year euphoria!

 

There are several ways of toning down a high gloss finish. I generally use a 80% water/20% ink mix with a tiny drop of washing up liquid added. Use this as an overall wash - if it is still too shiny add another coat of ink and water... let it fry then a quick dust with some black (top down)and brown  (bottom up) and it should be fine. This works well on locos painted  by Coachman as Larry used good quality paints and I have used it to tone a down a couple of 2-6-4T (Stanier and Fairburn varieties) to get rid of their plastic black sheen.

 

Hope this helps

 

Baz

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Phil

 

sorry for the delay in replying.. missed this in my end of year/New year euphoria!

 

There are several ways of toning down a high gloss finish. I generally use a 80% water/20% ink mix with a tiny drop of washing up liquid added. Use this as an overall wash - if it is still too shiny add another coat of ink and water... let it fry then a quick dust with some black (top down)and brown  (bottom up) and it should be fine. This works well on locos painted  by Coachman as Larry used good quality paints and I have used it to tone a down a couple of 2-6-4T (Stanier and Fairburn varieties) to get rid of their plastic black sheen.

 

Hope this helps

 

Baz

 

Thanks Barry - I've stopped building and started a painting and weathering phase, so I'll give this a go tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

 

Phil

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Any news Phil??

 

Hi Barry

 

I wish there was, but life has got in the way and I've done no modelling yesterday or today, and I won't be doing any tomorrow either - rest assured I'll keep you posted once I get the opportunity to get to the workbench!

 

Phil

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and more fish vans...

 

post-7650-0-80863200-1421491710_thumb.jpg

 

but I have also been busy with some ventilated meat vans..

 

post-7650-0-67672400-1421491755_thumb.jpg

 

and even some ex GMR BR 21T mineral wagons..

 

post-7650-0-10794900-1421491789_thumb.jpg

 

more wagons soon!

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At last a loco weathered for ... me! Courtesy of some time at Normanton show last weekend a recently acquired second hand Hornby Royal Scot - The Old Contemptibles. 

 

post-7650-0-64885700-1422641846_thumb.jpg

 

Baz

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I used a couple of  photos of another Scot - I didn't have one of The Old Contemptibles in colour with me at the show. They are from Gavin Morrisons book on Leeds Holbeck shed.

 

I try to make use of colour plates of particular stock to help with weathering.  Major problems are caused by the lack of decent shots of the top of locos and coaches as well as of the insides of mineral wagons.

 

edited to include book details

Edited by Barry O
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