Wright writes.....

[60526]

Just going back in this thread a bit, 60508 Duke of Rothsay, where was the AWS box fitted?

[Andy Hayter]

The greenhowards

 

Unless Graeme comes along and says differently I would advise against using brake fluid to do any stripping.

 

I used this on a resin kit (not one of Graeme's) that has to be stripped back when the can of varnish - which had previously been giving a steady fine spray - decided to shoot out huge globs of varnish.  The end result was that some of the parts softened and distorted.

[gr.king]

Can't recommend brake fluid on resin as I've never tried it. Andy's experience sounds alarming!

 

I wonder if Phoenix Precision can comment on the suitability of their stripper for plastics on polyurethane resins and on polyurethane/isocyanate resins?

[Headstock]

I've been impressed by this stuff, probably the best paint stripper I've ever used. It has been used on white metal, brass and I have stripped Hornby RTR carriages back to the bare plastic. I used it first to remove decals and white painted windows from a Hornby Maunsel without any ill effects to the glazing.

 

I have no connection with the company, and with any stripper I would always recommend to test first.

 

http://www.biostrip.co.uk/paint-stripping/biostrip-20-sample-bottle.html

[davidw]

Can't recommend brake fluid on resin as I've never tried it. Andy's experience sounds alarming!

 

I wonder if Phoenix Precision can comment on the suitability of their stripper for plastics on polyurethane resins and on polyurethane/isocyanate resins?

I used on a number of plastics. Only Hornby body shell and Bachmann

[micklner]

I have used Brake fluid on resin without problem, wash off as soon as paint starts lifting. Sadly as this a mix with plastic = a potential nightmare. Much easier to rub down the nose with fine wet and dry until smooth, repaint and re varnish.

Edited February 25, 2016 by micklner

[Barry Ten]

I have used Brake fluid on resin without problem, wash off as soon as paint starts lifting. Sadly as this a mix with plastic = a potential nightmare. Much easier to rub down the nose with fine wet and dry until smooth, repaint and re varnish.

 

if it is only the nose area that's affected, surely worth a go at rubbing down and retouching before stripping the main body colour, lining etc?

[Norwenglish]

In my days of painting and repainting wargaming miniatures, I always found red spirit to be quite effective when stripping plastics and resin. I just filled a plastic tub with it and submerged the item in there for a few days, then gave it a scrub with a nail brush or toothbrush before washing it in water.

 

We actually found a tub recently with some miniatures and red spirit still in it, and they must have been put in for stripping a good 5 years ago!

 

Stuart

[newbryford]

I have used Brake fluid on resin without problem, wash off as soon as paint starts lifting. Sadly as this a mix with plastic = a potential nightmare. Much easier to rub down the nose with fine wet and dry until smooth, repaint and re varnish.

 

I've used DOT4 brake fluid on plastics without any problems. Although it won't lift some of the printing from Lima locos, it's excellent on Airfix/Hornby/Dapol Mk2's.

 

My usual weapon of choice for stubborn paint is Phoenix Superstrip, very good, but it's not cheap and I've had no problems with any materials..

 

I've heard of others use Dettol, Mr Muscle oven cleaner, Fairy Powerspray, but my most recent (new to me) stripper is Iso Propyl Alcohol - IPA. Obtained from a well known online site at £15 for 5 litres at 99% strength. It needs thinning slightly to about 93%, but will happily remove Humbrol enamel over Halfords primer.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[gr.king]

I've tried Google for the answer, without success, so can I be daft enough to ask publicly what "red spirit" is please?

[Norwenglish]

Sorry, I was just making a direct translation from Norwegian (Rødsprit over here), I wasn't aware such a thing doesn't exist over there. From what I can find, it would seem to be methylated spirits/ denatured alcohol.

 

I also forgot to add in my earlier post that my experiences have only been with acrylics.

 

Stuart

Edited February 25, 2016 by Norwenglish

[St Enodoc]

with any stripper I would always recommend to test first.

Couldn't agree more.

[Guest Brighton_JunctionLNER]

hello Mr Wright,

i was looking at the Gresley Collection that Hornby are making this year. it consists of a P2, A4, A1 and A3,the A3 being no2503. in the group shot 2503 has a banjo dome...is that correct? 
in the single image it has a banjo dome; however in the packaged image it has the slandered dome!!

i thought the banjo dome was added in BR days or Thompson days am i correct? 

if not can someone please explain to me the correct information or if Hornby has made a boo boo!

cheers
jesse

[jwealleans]

the slandered dome

Is is still an offence to slander an inanimate object?

[jrg1]

Is is still an offence to slander an inanimate object?

The package image also has left hand drive

[Dr Gerbil-Fritters]

The new A3s all seem to feature the ski jump footplate too...

[gr.king]

Morning Jesse,

Whatever happened to "Hey Tony...."?

Anyway, I believe the true teardrop shaped banjo is correct for just the final batch of A3s as built. All later elongated dome covers, whether described (wrongly) as banjos or as streamlined domes were the type that first appeared on the V2s, with straight sides.

 

Presumably the apparent ski jump running plate on the A3s is the consequence of some special suspension set-up to counteract understeer when racing?

 

I see all four locos seem set to have a freshly dipped toffee-apple ultra gloss finish too. Mr Gresley would not be pleased!

[micklner]

As Graeme has said 2500 -2508 were the only A3's ever fitted with Banjo Domes. I am amazed they are still showing photos of Harrier Aircraft Carrier launch strips posing as Locomotives.

As to gloss finish "Yuk" that look like toys not models.

[Focalplane]

I know next to nothing about the LNER so cannot comment on the details of the Gresley locos, but as RTR models a few things stand out, particularly when Hornby insists on displaying side on views.

 

The first is the apparent raised front buffer beam and the huge gap between the front frames and the bogie wheels.  Next the enormous gap between engine and tender which is only there for negotiating "radius 2" curves.  At least Bachmann allow some adjustment of that gap on more recent products.   Third, no flange on the rear pony, missing by design apparently.

 

I have only bought one new Hornby loco in recent times compared to many Bachmanns (this before I switched to 7mm) and that was the rebuilt Patriot, one their better offerings, in my opinion.

 

But, taking all things considered, I am with Tony 100%, building your own from a decent kit cannot be bettered.  One of these days I might tackle scratchbuilding and thereby move to a yet higher level of modelling zen.

 

(I may not using the term "zen" correctly so I apologize to anyone who may feel offended)

[t-b-g]

My views on the "finish" of models have changed over the years. I used to think that everything should have a dead matt finish but nowadays I prefer a degree of gloss on the finish of locos and carriages. My modelling period is admittedly a lot early than that of most people but in pre-grouping times most locos and carriages had a gloss finish and when I see the reflections in them in photos, I want to recreate that look on my models.

 

A roof or an underframe, I am happy to see with a matt finish and that variation in finish adds to the realism.

 

Some of the best looking models I have seen have been where a gloss finish has then been well weathered. The combination of textures and finish really brings the model to life.

 

I recently saw a superb pre-grouping loco model, built and painted by one of the best regarded modellers around but it did nothing for me because it was modelled in a "clean" condition but with a dead matt finish. A nice gloss finish would have really lifted it to another level.

 

I am not suggesting that all locos should have a full gloss finish and those modelling the 50s and 60s should probably avoid gloss except on an ex works passenger loco but I prefer to just look at photos of the real thing and model from that, rather than what our modellers eyes have got used to seeing.

Edited February 26, 2016 by t-b-g

[Dunsignalling]

Whilst it often sits well in the larger scales (O Gauge and upwards), a gloss finish looks rather OTT and "chocolate box" when applied to smaller models unless applied with the utmost skill and restraint. However, as always, there are those who prefer idealism to realism in their models.

 

This is not the only area of modelling where reproducing something directly from the prototype just doesn't look "right". A good example was seen in recent runs of Bachmann BR(s) coaches; the shade is as close a match as one could wish for but looks far too dark when applied to the models. Similarly, the gleaming appearance of most SR green coaches in photographs taken well into the 1960s wouldn't transfer well to a Bachmann Bulleid or Mk1.

 

The thickness of paint and varnish just doesn't scale down. Three thou on a OO model equates to roughly a quarter of an inch on the prototype so is more out of scale than anything except the gauge....... 

 

I do agree, though, that an ex-works paint job with a dead flat finish also looks wrong - in either case, that's where satin comes in.

 

John

Edited February 26, 2016 by Dunsignalling

[jrg1]

An ex-works paint job with a dead flat finish looks.............plastic.  Satin varnish at least improves it no end.

[billbedford]

A good example was seen in recent runs of Bachmann BR(s) coaches; the shade is as close a match as one could wish for but looks far too dark when applied to the models. Similarly, the gleaming appearance of most SR green coaches in photographs taken well into the 1960s wouldn't transfer well to a Bachmann Bulleid or Mk1.

 

 

Yes, but if you take you models outside the colours will look a lot brighter. This is because, even on an overcast day, there is much more light reflected off the model than there would be under artificial light.

[Poggy1165]

My views on the "finish" of models have changed over the years. I used to think that everything should have a dead matt finish but nowadays I prefer a degree of gloss on the finish of locos and carriages. My modelling period is admittedly a lot early than that of most people but in pre-grouping times most locos and carriages had a gloss finish and when I see the reflections in them in photos, I want to recreate that look on my models.

 

 

While I broadly agree with t-b-g here, and certainly would agree if we were talking about something like a GC Atlantic emerging from Marylebone on an an express, I have just been looking through a few photos of my favourite pre-group railway, and have to say that many engines, certainly post 1914, look anything but 'gloss'. The GCRS photo gallery throws up some examples of both. (Anyone visiting the site will have to work their way through as most of the photos are in fact post-1923.)

 

I think cleaning standards went down sharply at some point (possibly 1914ish) and taken across the board things were not always as lovely as we like to think. 

 

I am arguing against myself in a way, as I have always held that the pre-group engines were kept clean. Compared to BR circa 1960 I still think they were, generally speaking. But gloss? I'm less sure. 

[Clive Mortimore]

Morning Jesse,

 

Whatever happened to "Hey Tony...."?

 

Anyway, I believe the true teardrop shaped banjo is correct for just the final batch of A3s as built. All later elongated dome covers, whether described (wrongly) as banjos or as streamlined domes were the type that first appeared on the V2s, with straight sides.

 

Presumably the apparent ski jump running plate on the A3s is the consequence of some special suspension set-up to counteract understeer when racing?

 

I see all four locos seem set to have a freshly dipped toffee-apple ultra gloss finish too. Mr Gresley would not be pleased!

Hi Graeme

 

Your comment on the colour of the locos seems to have sparked a debate. But hang on everyone these are catalouge photos aimed and the serious collector, I don't think they are intended for the modeller as such.