Wright writes.....

[Barry Ten]

21 minutes ago, Northmoor said:

  Other than the slight paint bleed onto the canopy I was quite pleased with the finish.

 

 

 

 

That should polish away nicely with a bit of T-cut on a cotton bud. Don't ask me how I know...

[LNER4479]

32 minutes ago, micklner said:

No I mean the ECJS single Coach, the end doors marked 3rd with no windows either side  . I am presuming, it is not a Corridor vehicle.

Ah, sorry, misunderstood. It IS a corridor coach, with end doors both sides, both ends into the vestibule area, through into the corridor connection. On the corridor side, every other door is a dummy door, hence only five '3rd' labels on that side.

[LNER4479]

53 minutes ago, Barry O said:

 as for curtains  Any ideas on the best way of fitting them?)

 

A really simple, cheating - but surprisingly effective - way is simply to paint them on the inside of the glazing!

[Barry O]

5 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

A really simple, cheating - but surprisingly effective - way is simply to paint them on the inside of the glazing!

Tried that but it is a bit flat..

 

Baz

[davidw]

8 minutes ago, Barry O said:

Tried that but it is a bit flat..

 

Baz

Try Dartcastings they do brass and white metal curtain. Very effective. Easy to position with glue and glaze.

[Iain.d]

2 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Some nice coaching stock there, Iain. I'm just tackling my first (and last?!) Roxey Mouldings kit myself at the moment - a Dia 1778 50ft LMS brake.

 

I'm naturally drawn to the LMS stuff - the CO vehicle (D.1903) looks lovely - a very common pairing on the LMS with a 12-wheel restaurant car.

 

I've just taken delivery of a Comet (Wizard) 12-wheel LMS sleeper first vehicle so I'm hoping that might see the light of day (ha!) in 2021.

Thank you.  I did two D1778 full brakes last year; one in crimson, the other in maroon. Not sure if Roxey ever did them in brass, mine are/were white plastic with raised moulding, whitemetal ends and bogies. I recall them being quite a faff to construct. I cut the height of the sides on one incorrectly (too low) and rebuilt it back up with evergreen strip. The roofs were a pain also. They'll run in a pigeon special and will past muster when moving. I wouldn't be in a rush to do another one!

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

[dibateg]

This years output has ben pretty good, exploiting the lockdown.

 

Stanier tank ( its just come back from being painted by Paul Moore, I've not opened the box yet! ) 

 

LNER O1

 

GWR Hall for a client, painted by Alen Brackenbrough

 

LNER J6 which is pretty well finished now constructionwise.

 

And laying and wiring the track on the layout

 

So all in all, as well as lots of other minor projects in between, a lot of progress....

 

Have a good and safe Christmas with plenty of modelling all!

Regards

Tony

 

[Dave John]

Silver linings I suppose. No doubt it has been a strange year but I agree that alongside the buyers of models many people are sitting down and making models. 

 

A few highlights of my year.

 

CR 670 class

 

 

CR D27 Machinery wagon

 

 

CR D25 Lime wagon

 

 

CR D38 Glass wagon

 

 

There were quite a few others too, but those illustrate the point that I have learned skills from building them. 

 

The 670 class is from an etched kit, but making it made me think about drive mechanisms, pickup design and compensation. My painting and lining skills are nowhere near as good as the experts, but it is something I persevere with improving slightly with each attempt. 

 

The three scratchbuilt wagons have improved my ability to work with styrene. I am now much more confidant about using the silhouette, effectively designing a cut of parts which fit together accurately. It is a time consuming process, but the costs are small compared to rtr and that now has to be taken into consideration for many modellers. 

 

Oh, and archers rivets. Over a thousand later I'm getting the hang of those. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MJI]

I completed this DMU

 

 

This Lima 47

 

A few Airfix aircons.

 

Still waiting on Brian for wider Mark 2 glazing to match his frames, got 8 carriages waiting.

 

Waiting for paint 4 Arifix cattle

In workshop a few odd GWR carriages for a side project.

 

[Jamiel]

I hope it is OK to ask for a bit of advice here.
 

My second brass loco build, a London Road Models L&Y 0-6-0 Class 23 saddle tank.
 

I am wanting to confirm my driving the rear wheels is correct?
 

The cab footplate will need opening out to allow the (recommended) gearbox to fit, but it looks like that is the best place for it. I presume that I should allow a bit of play as well for the wheels rather than a snug fit?
 

Some photos to show the progress and how bit fit together.

 

 

 

I know that I should build the chassis completely first but I have been wating for some replacement wheels from Markits so that I can fully isolate the body to allow DCC to be used. They are on their way, just the Christmas post to navigate, so I have started the body.
 

I would also like to ask if people would advise cutting off the second drive shaft, or to get a flywheel weight as it is an 0-6-0 so might needs the extra push to get over small losses of power at points. There will be a DCC chip to go into the boiler as well, but it looks like there is plenty of space.
 

I am really enjoying this build, not such an easy assembly as the Comet kit I built first but that needs some work to get it running. I think building this I may have learned what the problem is, if not perhaps a visit to Tony or old friends at LMRS when things get back normal may be called for (if that is not a problem).
 

Thank you in advance for any advice.
 

Jamie

[Michael Edge]

Have you tried the motor the other way up? It might fit vertically in the firebox and up into the tank, still driving the trailing axle.

[micklner]

Looking at this photo

 

http://traders.scalefour.org/LondonRoadModels/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/LOCO46b.jpg

 

The loco appears to have no gaps between the footplate and the boiler/tank ? If that is correct , drive off the centre Driver. It gives a more balanced drive as a result. It stops the motor being in the cab as well.

Do you need such a large motor? unless pulling heavy loads, a smaller motor giving you more space and gives enough power.

Edited December 12, 2020 by micklner

[Michael Edge]

There's no advantage in driving the centre axle, it will work just as well off the trailing one. In fact it's better not to have the gearbox on the centre axle because that's where you need some sideplay.

[Jamiel]

Thanks for the replies, and on my ‘Ellerby’ thread.

I think that the back axel might be a good idea for the reasons above, especially giving the centre axle some play.
 

I took a few photos of the loco at the London Road Models stand at the York show in 2018, and although I don’t know if that one has a motor fitted, or is just made as a display model, there is a gap under the tank above the centre wheel which I would like to keep.

 

I have opened out the cab footplate to allow the motor to go in horizontal or vertical, and will see how it works best when the wheels come through. Both are options, as is driving the centre wheel if the back doesn’t work out.
 

Thank you again for all the advice. I will post some photos the model as it progresses.
 

Jamie

Edited December 12, 2020 by Jamiel

[micklner]

Which gearbox ?

 

The slot under the boiler , I appear to be there to allow the motor to fit there?  If it is yes, you will need to fill the slot/hole otherwise you will have unprotoypical daylight showing through when built.

[CXW1]

 

 

 

 

 

 

Evening All, here is a round-up of what I have managed to produce in 2020. I have always 'made stuff' but most of this has been under the radar. After some gentle arm twisting I finally took the plunge and started posting pictures of my work on RMWeb. This couldn't have come at a better time as it has been the source of much interaction during a period when it has been in short supply.

 

I started off 2020 by finishing off a scratchbuilt J78 crane tank which had been kicking around the back of my workbench for a couple of years.

 

 

This was followed by a scratchbuilt N12.

 

 

Restoration of an old Connoisseur Models J79. I originally built this a few years ago - the body was OK but I made a right hash of the chassis. A new scratchbuilt chassis was made and it now runs a lot better.

 

 

A 2mm finescale tar wagon for Laurie Adams. This is a 3-D printed body on a 2mm Association underframe. In an ideal world this would have been delivered to Laurie many months ago but it is unfortunately still in my possession.

 

 

Another restoration job - this is an old Ks Y8 that my late grandfather made 40+ years ago. It never ran very well so I made a new chassis and fitted it with a small High Level gearbox and motor, and it is now much better. It isn't the best  model but it has some sentimental value.

 

 

A scratchbuilt LNER D24.....

 

 

was followed by a scratchbuilt LNER A7....

 

 

and a 2mm scale house.

 

 

My current scratchbuild projects are a D22...

 

 

and F8....

 

 

I'm not a regular contributor to Wright Writes so I hope you don't mind me posting my 2020 pictures here. 

 

One thing is clear though - I think I need to get out more.....

 

Cheers 

 

Chris

 

 

 

 

[t-b-g]

57 minutes ago, CXW1 said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Evening All, here is a round-up of what I have managed to produce in 2020. I have always 'made stuff' but most of this has been under the radar. After some gentle arm twisting I finally took the plunge and started posting pictures of my work on RMWeb. This couldn't have come at a better time as it has been the source of much interaction during a period when it has been in short supply.

 

I started off 2020 by finishing off a scratchbuilt J78 crane tank which had been kicking around the back of my workbench for a couple of years.

 

 

This was followed by a scratchbuilt N12.

 

 

Restoration of an old Connoisseur Models J79. I originally built this a few years ago - the body was OK but I made a right hash of the chassis. A new scratchbuilt chassis was made and it now runs a lot better.

 

 

A 2mm finescale tar wagon for Laurie Adams. This is a 3-D printed body on a 2mm Association underframe. In an ideal world this would have been delivered to Laurie many months ago but it is unfortunately still in my possession.

 

 

Another restoration job - this is an old Ks Y8 that my late grandfather made 40+ years ago. It never ran very well so I made a new chassis and fitted it with a small High Level gearbox and motor, and it is now much better. It isn't the best  model but it has some sentimental value.

 

 

A scratchbuilt LNER D24.....

 

 

was followed by a scratchbuilt LNER A7....

 

 

and a 2mm scale house.

 

 

My current scratchbuild projects are a D22...

 

 

and F8....

 

 

I'm not a regular contributor to Wright Writes so I hope you don't mind me posting my 2020 pictures here. 

 

One thing is clear though - I think I need to get out more.....

 

Cheers 

 

Chris

 

 

 

 

 

I wish I was just half as prolific as you are Chris. Seeing them all together like that, with so many of them scratchbuilt, is really inspiring and makes me want to try just that bit harder (and faster!).

[CXW1]

57 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

 

I wish I was just half as prolific as you are Chris. Seeing them all together like that, with so many of them scratchbuilt, is really inspiring and makes me want to try just that bit harder (and faster!).

 

Tony, under normal circumstances I don't think I would have been so prolific. In reality, if it wasn't for the restrictions on daily life, things like the J79 and Y8 wouldn't have seen the light of day for many years. Work and other real life events have been challenging to say the least in the past 9 months, and sitting down and making things has been a welcome release. 

 

I've just remembered that I also made a LRM Hull & Barnsley Railway horsebox. 

 

Looking at the above pictures I reckon that I've fitted a Westinghouse pipe to the D22 buffer beam rather than a Vacuum pipe. I'll change it tomorrow. I should have also mentioned that the D22 tender is an Arthur K kit - only the loco is scratchbuilt. 

[St Enodoc]

10 hours ago, davidw said:

Try Dartcastings they do brass and white metal curtain. Very effective. Easy to position with glue and glaze.

I have tried those but find them a bit too "unflat" if you see what I mean. If I bother I just paint them.

[St Enodoc]

9 hours ago, dibateg said:

This years output has ben pretty good, exploiting the lockdown.

 

Stanier tank ( its just come back from being painted by Paul Moore, I've not opened the box yet! ) 

 

LNER O1

 

GWR Hall for a client, painted by Alen Brackenbrough

 

LNER J6 which is pretty well finished now constructionwise.

 

And laying and wiring the track on the layout

 

So all in all, as well as lots of other minor projects in between, a lot of progress....

 

Have a good and safe Christmas with plenty of modelling all!

Regards

Tony

 

If that's the Derby Line, Tony, those put me in mind of Chaddesden SIdings.

[St Enodoc]

I haven't done much in the way of locos (apart from detailing a couple of RTRs) or rolling stock (apart from refurbishing two or three eBay purchases) but so far this year on the layout I've:

 

- fitted fences/fascias along the front of the storage loops

- fitted guard rails to the tracks over the future viaduct

- fitted uncoupling electromagnets and built a panel to control them and the "hand" points in Porthmellyn Road yard

- completed Porthmellyn Road lever frame including Line Clear switches and indicators between Paddington, Porthmellyn Road and Penzance

- ballasted all the visible tracks that are laid so far

- built and installed all the main line and yard signals for Porthmellyn Road

- started the woodwork for the branch baseboards

 

More details and photos on my layout topic if anyone's interested.

[manna]

G'Day Folks

 

Time to lower the tone of some of these beautifully built loco's.

The first one is a J6, Airfix N2 boiler, scratch built the rest of the body, Chris P Bacon, J50 chassis (modified), towing a modified Airfix 4F tender.

 

Second one, a (almost finished J1, Scratchbuilt body on another Chris P Bacon J50 chassis, borrowed tender, until i build a proper one.

Third one, a J4, scratch body, Wrenn R1 chassis, Kitmaster tender. ( Nearly finished)

Forth one, is a M&GN J3, with a Fowler smokebox door and a stovepipe chimney, scratch built body, Wrenn R1 chassis, borrowed tender. ( Now if Tony went back a few years !!!)

Fifth one is a J7, almost there, needs new wheels and tender. K's J3 chassis, scratch built body.

 

Just realized, I like 0-6-0's, but this one is waiting for it's axles. A stretched D11, on a old Hornby/Triang 0-6-0 re-wheeled chassis.

 

manna

 

manna

[Iain.d]

15 hours ago, Barry O said:

...as for curtains  Any ideas on the best way of fitting them?)

Baz

 

I have tried various ‘curtain’ options including MJT cast ones, painting on the glass ones, cutting tissue to shape then colouring with felt tip and cutting and scribing/forming pieces of plasticard.  None really gave the look I was after. Probably more to my skillset limits than anything else. I suspect I could go back to the MJT ones and look to use washes and highlights to get the colour variations.

 

 

For now though I’ve settled on making my own, like these above. I cut a peace of black plastic card to the shape you can see. These are 18mm(h) x 5mm(w). These dimensions will vary slightly depending on window size I need them for, these are cut for LMS Stanier coach window sizes and provide a bit of slack to get the position behind the glass where I want it.  I glue these frames to a doubled over piece of material, I think this is blanket ribbon, using liquid poly. It changes the colour of the material slightly but that part will be hidden anyway. Once dry I cut the frame away from the blanket ribbon strip with a sharp blade, tight to the plastic frame.

 

Then pairing the material and frames (so they’re handed) about a third of the way up I put a couple of wraps of cotton, tie off and secure with a bit of liquid poly. I then position against the glazing and fix with a dab of epoxy; normally securing one end first, letting it dry and then do the other end. They’re not exact – but what is in OO gauge…..

 

 

Below is a LMS D2121 FK, I think these curtains should really be blue, but I'm sure I've seen orange curtains (could be from a picture or memories of BR Mk1 CKs in blue/grey)

 

And a LMS D2117 CK

 

 

These are a bit fiddly to make, but they're all individual. I couldn’t sit there making them in one hit, so I usually batch build over time, doing each step when I have chance – letting glue or paint dry on some other job and fitting these inbetween. Hope that helps.

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Edited December 13, 2020 by Iain.d
Typo

[Iain.d]

3 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I haven't done much in the way of locos (apart from detailing a couple of RTRs) or rolling stock (apart from refurbishing two or three eBay purchases) but so far this year on the layout I've:

 

- fitted fences/fascias along the front of the storage loops

- fitted guard rails to the tracks over the future viaduct

- fitted uncoupling electromagnets and built a panel to control them and the "hand" points in Porthmellyn Road yard

- completed Porthmellyn Road lever frame including Line Clear switches and indicators between Paddington, Porthmellyn Road and Penzance

- ballasted all the visible tracks that are laid so far

- built and installed all the main line and yard signals for Porthmellyn Road

- started the woodwork for the branch baseboards

 

More details and photos on my layout topic if anyone's interested.

I've kept an eye on your layout topic. I've not always left a 'feedback icon' of appreciation/support, but your work is pretty impressive stuff. Particularly like your current run of signal builds/installations. And the ballasting looks good too!

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

[micklner]

MJT Curtains, whitemetal version. Painted Garter Blue and a black wash in the folds.

 

Edited December 13, 2020 by micklner