Wright writes.....

[Michael Edge]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening John,

 

DJH frames are really designed for OO (it's the main market, after all).

 

However, by adding spacing washers on the axles (anathema to the purists, but 'invisible' with the lid on) they can be made successfully in EM. If you widen the frames (in the half dozen or so I've built in EM, I haven't bothered), then the cylinders will protrude too far out. You'll need to file off the backs of the cylinder blocks to bring them in a twitch. Then, you'll find clearance problems between the crossheads/slidebars and the leading crankpins. My 'dodge' is to plug the cylinders with solder and re-drill holes for the piston rods an mil' and a half further outboard, setting slidebars out accordingly. 

 

I hope this helps.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

The cylinders are all too wide on 00 frames, you need to take even more off for EM.

[Ray Chessum]

3 hours ago, hayfield said:

Tony

 

I see you have a liking to DJH kits an, I have recently have added a few kits to my collection, these are second hand either unbuilt or part built. I have a BR standard 4 class tank to build, other than buying a different make of chassis is it possible to build the chassis in the kit to EM gauge.

 

The main (or perhaps the first) stumbling block is the cast cylinders which would have to be modified slightly if I widen the main frames.

 

Any thoughts please

I built the chassis in OO and added plasticard cosmetic frames glued outside the brass frames, this saves the problems with the frame spacers and cylinders etc, Ray

[polybear]

12 hours ago, jrg1 said:

Jewellers may be able to supply small screws.

 

Ebay is your friend....(This is the first that came up in the list - there may well be better/cheaper suppliers):

M1.6 x 0.35 cup point grub screws:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M1-6-M2-M2-5-M3-Socket-Cup-Point-Grub-Screws-A2-Stainless-Setscrews-DIN-916/273058052101?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3f93873805:g:0i4AAOSwIh5d88C3&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkY3FSd4Ad8xn3oRtkVexxrEzbqpq3DAoVKuYWAnnPM9NJ1B8Xjf9rm8TizmcelZkdG7mulmO5W3byybGoJMI19Zre8M%2Fp02fnzqvOBs2aH7sYZZE2PcXNkYQ8Rm%2FyYyOU8i2yEA3oGwzRjmZyTd5BO6pwtbXWCIWsSS6pLjtDYgjpFg%2BbhDGk9QJ5KsM0kT%2Ffkr7M4%2FkRogqL9LkrDiorfRfEU14c9O5bwhYN80Z0NcaidmoLVhmc5rEvsMYy24TBzEOo%2Bgn7wiozSls7ulTi2PjGs2J%2BSVnvzT4GZ4xqb%2BRwQeYbM%2FN4qLXOi73PvoaXAiLMHzmGRlquPr2hlKUfJDRQi6WAeJFIq4MK4Vrzo%2Fq7SnQ9mQdj82LhjrjBQk8LOM0FV7jTdxxEYAroOcLhU95yjt9H%2BtVXuZlLSTICOOP9Hprx6HACfZK1QdVMZAu6h33DFc2BJtcd4AqfwcSlE73EPjjDZerPyES24QfnDInCEVlNwIvY3EjA3kVWaYY%2BcbFpmhFBsrtNY7nGCiv%2FoZmJqE%2FFZGa936DwBDF3thAFLiZO2x0%2BEzXSOZemJsfEcJcMZh388TK6UnbMMGGoJrQkE%2FLs%2Bow%2BBTTHDW%2FmQsbGzfWXSYTqIawammfzKLe77Yoq5fTuuyGn0vPBNYHyBJemtUEEw89O0AgY1tsMAdRSJ9kgC%2FjtXD9yT6KDIFtE6aDeWY0IfWYtcTM%2BrMjIQ6s2HDKhKiXy%2FNcQsh8eAzLTSX%2FgDn5%2BDlGtlI5HWFx%2B|cksum%3A27305805210140d235f2792b4a3490f4df9b00aede9d|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

 

 

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening John,

 

DJH frames are really designed for OO (it's the main market, after all).

 

However, by adding spacing washers on the axles (anathema to the purists, but 'invisible' with the lid on) they can be made successfully in EM.

 

 

I'm pretty sure that EM axles are available from Markits (and also P4 I believe, even though the wheels aren't to p4 profile)

[APOLLO]

On 28/11/2020 at 15:52, robertcwp said:

How about magnetic couplings? I have used some Hunt ones on Retford coaching stock and they seem to work OK.

 

 

 

Regarding my previous post regarding my newly purchased rake of Heljan BOC bogie tank wagons bunching up and causing derailments when running down a grade, and the reply above, I purchased a pack of Hunt magnetic couplings. They arrived today and being a direct plug in fit to the NEM coupling sockets were quick and easy to fit. Instant success, no bunching up, no derailments and they look good. I bought the standard length, but the slightly shorter ones would be better for this stock.

 

I left the outer couplings of the rake tension lock, the rake is only split (simple & quick now) when stabling in sidings. The only downside is a heavy start / tug will part them somewhere in the rake. Start slow and they are OK

 

I have a similar problem with the couplings on the "new" Hornby Pullmans, derailing when pushing mainly, however these are not plug in and are attached to the damnable swiveling mechanism with a small screw. Any ideas ?

 

I won't standardise on these Hunt magnetic couplings. but will use them again and can thoroughly recommend them.

 

https://www.westhillwagonworks.co.uk/hunt-couplings-new-c-2/hunt-couplings-original-oo-gauge-c-15/hunt-couplings-close-coupling-10-pairs-for-nem-sockets-oo-gauge-p-23

 

Brit15

 

[robertcwp]

9 minutes ago, APOLLO said:

 

Regarding my previous post regarding my newly purchased rake of Heljan BOC bogie tank wagons bunching up and causing derailments when running down a grade, and the reply above, I purchased a pack of Hunt magnetic couplings. They arrived today and being a direct plug in fit to the NEM coupling sockets were quick and easy to fit. Instant success, no bunching up, no derailments and they look good. I bought the standard length, but the slightly shorter ones would be better for this stock.

 

I left the outer couplings of the rake tension lock, the rake is only split (simple & quick now) when stabling in sidings. The only downside is a heavy start / tug will part them somewhere in the rake. Start slow and they are OK

 

I have a similar problem with the couplings on the "new" Hornby Pullmans, derailing when pushing mainly, however these are not plug in and are attached to the damnable swiveling mechanism with a small screw. Any ideas ?

 

I won't standardise on these Hunt magnetic couplings. but will use them again and can thoroughly recommend them.

 

https://www.westhillwagonworks.co.uk/hunt-couplings-new-c-2/hunt-couplings-original-oo-gauge-c-15/hunt-couplings-close-coupling-10-pairs-for-nem-sockets-oo-gauge-p-23

 

Brit15

 

I thought there were similar couplings available for screw fit but don't know the details. I have only used them so far for some stock on Retford to replace the Bachmann pipe couplings.

[APOLLO]

3 minutes ago, robertcwp said:

I thought there were similar couplings available for screw fit but don't know the details. I have only used them so far for some stock on Retford to replace the Bachmann pipe couplings.

 

Thanks again, I will investigate.

 

Brit15

[Dunsignalling]

37 minutes ago, APOLLO said:

 

 

I have a similar problem with the couplings on the "new" Hornby Pullmans, derailing when pushing mainly, however these are not plug in and are attached to the damnable swiveling mechanism with a small screw. Any ideas ?

 

 

Brit15

 

Later runs of Hornby K-class Pullmans have links with NEM pockets. Straight swap,  but you do need to cut/rejoin the lighting wires.

 

Part number is X9098M.

 

John

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, Beechnut said:

Well done Tony and note you have fitted the expansion link correctly :o) Looking forward to seeing it painted and running on Retford.

Were they used on the ECML or is it for the GCR?

Another loco for your EM stud which seems to be slowly but surely growing.

 

Brendan

It'll be 43037, Brendan,

 

It was eventually shedded at 36E Retford (GC). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited December 10, 2020 by Tony Wright

[The Fatadder]

Ok it might have taken a year to finally get it running,  but following a conversation with Tony at Warley last year about the issues I was having getting my 47xx running.  Several months ago I built new pickups following Tony’s instructions.  Tonight I wired them up to the motor and it runs.  It still stutters a little, so further tweaks are no doubt required. But I’m impressed that it can now run end to end on my test track.  Just need to buy some Romford crank pin retention washers and summon up the courage to solder them on (given I prefer a threaded crank pin).

ive had rather a lot less luck with my Comet County chassis. It was free running when I assembled the chassis, now the motor is pulsing (ive recorded it below on 3/4 power).  Motor is anchored to the frames with the bar.  Would welcome any thoughts 

 
the third loco I have tried working on suffers from a problem of my own creation. When rebuilding my Mitchell 43xx from P4 to OO i soldered the front hornblock in position and left the middle one free to move.  Now the loco will work upside down (at which point the axle must be correctly aligned) , but jams solid when out the right way up.   
 

I’m thinking the answer is probably to secure the hornblock in the position where it works...

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, Barry O said:

Why can't Hornby get BR Green correct on their locos?  It detracts from what looks like a nice loco.

 

Baz

I'm not sure if it's the Hornby BR green itself which at 'fault', Baz,

 

It's the surface finish....................

 

 

This is Hornby's CORONACH from some little time ago, as supplied (complete with A4 boiler!).

 

 

 

And, believe it or not, this is the same loco. Apart from my ditching the horrid bogie wheels and renumbering/renaming it, Tom Foster has applied a coat of Klear to it, then weathered it; perfectly.

 

The difference in the green is astonishing. The Klear really brings out the Hornby BR green, and it looks dead right to me. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

Edited December 10, 2020 by Tony Wright
typo error

[Tony Wright]

3 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

Ok it might have taken a year to finally get it running,  but following a conversation with Tony at Warley last year about the issues I was having getting my 47xx running.  Several months ago I built new pickups following Tony’s instructions.  Tonight I wired them up to the motor and it runs.  It still stutters a little, so further tweaks are no doubt required. But I’m impressed that it can now run end to end on my test track.  Just need to buy some Romford crank pin retention washers and summon up the courage to solder them on (given I prefer a threaded crank pin).

ive had rather a lot less luck with my Comet County chassis. It was free running when I assembled the chassis, now the motor is pulsing (ive recorded it below on 3/4 power).  Motor is anchored to the frames with the bar.  Would welcome any thoughts 

 
the third loco I have tried working on suffers from a problem of my own creation. When rebuilding my Mitchell 43xx from P4 to OO i soldered the front hornblock in position and left the middle one free to move.  Now the loco will work upside down (at which point the axle must be correctly aligned) , but jams solid when out the right way up.   
 

I’m thinking the answer is probably to secure the hornblock in the position where it works...

Good evening Rich,

 

The first thing you need to do with the 'County' chassis is solder a wire to the motor's top brush, then attach a crocodile clip to/from the power source. By just placing one on by finger pressure, you're forcing the motor down, causing too much friction. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

Some more shots of Hornby's forthcoming A2/2..................

 

 

 

 

Far better bogie wheels than in the past. The drivers are the right pattern, too. And the valve gear is superior to what's gone before.................

 

Despite the prototype's perceived unpopularity, this model is going to be a winner! 

 

 

Edited December 10, 2020 by Tony Wright
to add something

[Chuffer Davies]

5 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Rich,

 

The first thing you need to do with the 'County' chassis is solder a wire to the motor's top brush, then attach a crocodile clip to/from the power source. By just placing one on by finger pressure, you're forcing the motor down, causing too much friction. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

And if that doesn't work, and because you've said that you've had it running previously, is it possible that you have switched the left and right coupling rods?

Frank

[cctransuk]

7 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

 

 

...... ditching the horrid bogie wheels .....

 

Looking at those bogie wheels from the perspective of someone who does not model LNER / BR(ER); all I can see that is notably different is that the Hornby spokes are straight, whereas the replacement ones are dished.

 

That being the case, and assuming that the Hornby spokes are plastic, it should be dead easy to place a Hornby wheel on an axle in a mini-drill; (or lathe if that is available); and apply a sharp, curved edge - such as one of the smaller curved scalpel blades - to the front face of the spokes.

 

Done carefully, after a little practice with a set of wheels from the junk box, this should result in dished spokes that can then be cleaned of any 'rag' with a fibreglass pen.

 

Given the price of replacement wheels nowadays, this may well be worthwhile; (if the originals really offend one's eye).

 

John Isherwood.

[micklner]

3 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Looking at those bogie wheels from the perspective of someone who does not model LNER / BR(ER); all I can see that is notably different is that the Hornby spokes are straight, whereas the replacement ones are dished.

 

That being the case, and assuming that the Hornby spokes are plastic, it should be dead easy to place a Hornby wheel on an axle in a mini-drill; (or lathe if that is available); and apply a sharp, curved edge - such as one of the smaller curved scalpel blades - to the front face of the spokes.

 

Done carefully, after a little practice with a set of wheels from the junk box, this should result in dished spokes that can then be cleaned of any 'rag' with a fibreglass pen.

 

Given the price of replacement wheels nowadays, this may well be worthwhile; (if the originals really offend one's eye).

 

John Isherwood.

At a total guess I always thought the percieved problem of Tony's , is the tread depth on earlier releases.

 

I might have to get some spare lined out LNER versions if they are available next year when the LNER A2/3 is released. A lot cheaper than other makes.

[The Fatadder]

30 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Rich,

 

The first thing you need to do with the 'County' chassis is solder a wire to the motor's top brush, then attach a crocodile clip to/from the power source. By just placing one on by finger pressure, you're forcing the motor down, causing too much friction. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Thanks again, amazing what one small change makes.  It now is running much nicer, if a tad noisy.  So I’ve applied some oil and will give it a run on the rolling road before replacing the cylinders.  Thanks again for the assistance 

 

and it also works with the left hand cross head/rod assembly added.  The right hand I appear to have cut a couple of mm too short so it ends up just falling out of the hole when at full extension.  

Edited December 10, 2020 by The Fatadder

[cctransuk]

2 minutes ago, micklner said:

At a total guess I always thought the percieved problem of Tony's , is the tread depth on earlier releases.

 

I might have to get some spare lined out LNER versions if they are available next year when the LNER A2/3 is released. A lot cheaper than other makes.

 

I looked at a photo of the prototype; (not my copyright) :

 

 

If anything, both the Hornby and the replacement wheels seem a tad long in the spoke / thin in the rim - though there's only a gnat's whisker in it!

 

John Isherwood.

[Barry Ten]

29 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

I'm not sure if it's the Hornby BR green itself which at 'fault', Baz,

The Klear really brings out the Hornby BR green, and it looks dead right to me. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

Buffing works pretty well with the Hornby green too, I reckon - either with T-cut or (as here) a small amount of solvent on a cotton bud, used to cut back weathering and which then gave a nice sheen and depth to the green.

 

 

 

 

[cctransuk]

Just now, Barry Ten said:

 

Buffing works pretty well with the Hornby green too, I reckon - either with T-cut or (as here) a small amount of solvent on a cotton bud, used to cut back weathering and which then gave a nice sheen and depth to the green.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm a great fan of Klear - every RTR loco that I buy is unweathered, and every loco gets a coat of Klear before I do anything further to it.

 

Klear gives that straight-from-the-paintshop sheen which, IMHO, should be the basis of all weathering.

 

I have just received my second Kernow D6xx Warship; the finish is flat and lifeless- but not for long!

 

John Isherwood.

[Jack P]

I've always thought the key to weathering a loco to a realistic standard was a focus more on the variation in tone and texture, than the actual colours themselves.

 

A great example is black locomotives. Both of these modified Hornby models have been full repainted, both using the same shade of matt black, the glossy/satin parts have simply had a varnish applied. Neither is 'fully' weathered, being turned 

 

 

 

My photography skills are pretty lacking, so it might not be as easy to see the effect on my modified Hornby West Country, but the entire loco had the main colours blocked in, and then was gloss varnished for transfers, after which the dirty areas were gone over with a matt paint.

 

 

Lots of excellent stuff posted in here over the last few days!

[hayfield]

6 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening John,

 

DJH frames are really designed for OO (it's the main market, after all).

 

However, by adding spacing washers on the axles (anathema to the purists, but 'invisible' with the lid on) they can be made successfully in EM. If you widen the frames (in the half dozen or so I've built in EM, I haven't bothered), then the cylinders will protrude too far out. You'll need to file off the backs of the cylinder blocks to bring them in a twitch. Then, you'll find clearance problems between the crossheads/slidebars and the leading crankpins. My 'dodge' is to plug the cylinders with solder and re-drill holes for the piston rods an mil' and a half further outboard, setting slidebars out accordingly. 

 

I hope this helps.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Tony 

 

Thank you for the reply, I have done this once with a K's loco which worked but looked a bit odd, however with the couple of sand boxes and brake gear it might disguise the excess space between the wheels and frames. With a couple of K's locos I have added 30 though black plastic sides to the outside of the frames which looks a bit better. This would be a bit harder as the frames have a lot more shape, including springs

 

 

6 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

4 hours ago, Ray Chessum said:

I built the chassis in OO and added plasticard cosmetic frames glued outside the brass frames, this saves the problems with the frame spacers and cylinders etc, Ray

 

Ray

 

Thanks, I have done this with a couple of K's locos, two things arise, the bearings not being flush with the frames, though I can get round this with larger holes, then the shape of the side frames, the worst issue are the springs. I was actually hoping for a larger gap between the frames to increase the  choice of gearboxes

 

5 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

The cylinders are all too wide on 00 frames, you need to take even more off for EM.

 

Michael

 

Thank you, This was one of me thoughts but easier said than done. But you have brought in an additional issue. I was hoping to use the Romford wheels supplied with different axles

 

 

 

[hayfield]

4 hours ago, polybear said:

 

I'm pretty sure that EM axles are available from Markits (and also P4 I believe, even though the wheels aren't to p4 profile)

 

Polybear

 

Thank you and I have both types of axle, I bought the P4 ones for setting up P4 chassis, strangely enough they work to a fashion, but as my P4 layout will be a dockside the track can be a bit lumpy. Jesting over. I will change the wheels once the chassis is painted

[CCGWR]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

I'm not sure if it's the Hornby BR green itself which at 'fault', Baz,

 

It's the surface finish....................

 

 

This is Hornby's CORONACH from some little time ago, as supplied (complete with A4 boiler!).

 

 

 

And, believe it or not, this is the same loco. Apart from my ditching the horrid bogie wheels and renumbering/renaming it, Tom Foster has applied a coat of Klear to it, then weathered it; perfectly.

 

The difference in the green is astonishing. The Klear really brings out the Hornby BR green, and it looks dead right to me. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

As others have commented, I also find adding a coat of Clear (I use Humbrol Clear) is an excellent way to bring out the green of Hornby Locos. I always brush paint it on, however, as I have found spraying it on with an airbrush occasionally makes it go all white.

 

This is a Castle I did.

 

 

I did a similar thing with this Star, although the green still looks a little grey on the loco, the overall effect was much improved.

 

Regards Connor

[St Enodoc]

1 hour ago, CCGWR said:

 

As others have commented, I also find adding a coat of Clear (I use Humbrol Clear) is an excellent way to bring out the green of Hornby Locos. I always brush paint it on, however, as I have found spraying it on with an airbrush occasionally makes it go all white.

 

This is a Castle I did.

 

 

I did a similar thing with this Star, although the green still looks a little grey on the loco, the overall effect was much improved.

 

Regards Connor

Connor, the references to Klear are to something called Johnson's Klear, which I believe is some sort of floor treatment. Down here it is sold as Pledge One-Go (if you can find it...).

[Barry O]

5 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Connor, the references to Klear are to something called Johnson's Klear, which I believe is some sort of floor treatment. Down here it is sold as Pledge One-Go (if you can find it...).

And it gives a yellowy hue to anything painted white after a while..

 

Problem is that having paid your money for a loco it should look the right "colour" when you buy it.. for me, a wash over with black indian ink and water provides a more acceptable finish.. but remember before you do anything to the surface finish make sure it is ok .. ottherwise no warranty.

 

Baz