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Wright writes.....


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3 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

How's this for something different.............?

 

HornbyAPT02.jpg.d16a2d0cc249425192438087229d8826.jpg

 

HornbyAPT04.jpg.4fa45e28d1f884238a22159dfa4e546d.jpg

 

This afternoon, Howard Smith brought over Hornby's latest APT full set (at over £1,300 it's rather an investment!). If one buys the lot, one gets 14 cars plus the test car.

 

We gave it a thorough testing (flat out at times!), and we've made a video which will appear on here and on BRM's WOR. 

 

I think it's an incredible model, though who'll have contemporary WCML layouts big enough to really show it off? As you can see, it takes up a lot of space on Little Bytham, and it required a lens with a huge depth of field to get it all in! 

 

 

Obviously the (electric) APT never operated through Little Bytham, but oddly enough it did run on the ECML.  Aerodynamic drag trials in the early '80s involved a pair of derestricted Class 37s pushing a unit (uncoupled I believe) up to 100mph on the level North of York, before backing off and just letting it coast.......  Long before the enthusiast grapevine on the Web (or even mobile phones), an APT must have raised some eyebrows on the platform ends as it quietly whirred past at speed, apparently being chased by a pair of diesels.

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1 hour ago, MarkC said:

Like most intricate jobs, there's a knack to it, but once you've done a few joints, you'll wonder what the fuss was all about!

 

 

Orthopaedic surgeons say the same.

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1 hour ago, MarkC said:

You speak for all of us who have had the same concerns, Jesse. Practice on some scrap first - drill some holes in narrow offcuts & have a go. Like most intricate jobs, there's a knack to it, but once you've done a few joints, you'll wonder what the fuss was all about!

 

Cheers

Mark

 

Use baking foil between the links to stop the assembly seizing up with solder.

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3 minutes ago, jrg1 said:

Use baking foil between the links to stop the assembly seizing up with solder.

 

Don't solder - use shouldered valvegear rivets instead.

 

CJI.

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1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

How's this for something different.............?

 

HornbyAPT02.jpg.d16a2d0cc249425192438087229d8826.jpg

 

HornbyAPT04.jpg.4fa45e28d1f884238a22159dfa4e546d.jpg

 

This afternoon, Howard Smith brought over Hornby's latest APT full set (at over £1,300 it's rather an investment!). If one buys the lot, one gets 14 cars plus the test car.

 

We gave it a thorough testing (flat out at times!), and we've made a video which will appear on here and on BRM's WOR. 

 

I think it's an incredible model, though who'll have contemporary WCML layouts big enough to really show it off? As you can see, it takes up a lot of space on Little Bytham, and it required a lens with a huge depth of field to get it all in! 

 

 

Have you ever had HST’s running through Little Bytham?

 

Stephen

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1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

How's this for something different.............?

 

HornbyAPT02.jpg.d16a2d0cc249425192438087229d8826.jpg

 

HornbyAPT04.jpg.4fa45e28d1f884238a22159dfa4e546d.jpg

 

This afternoon, Howard Smith brought over Hornby's latest APT full set (at over £1,300 it's rather an investment!). If one buys the lot, one gets 14 cars plus the test car.

 

We gave it a thorough testing (flat out at times!), and we've made a video which will appear on here and on BRM's WOR. 

 

I think it's an incredible model, though who'll have contemporary WCML layouts big enough to really show it off? As you can see, it takes up a lot of space on Little Bytham, and it required a lens with a huge depth of field to get it all in! 

 

 

Reminds me of the Eurostar Units that used to run on the ECML when I first moved up this way. They were smart and comfy and almost 'proper' Trains compared to the spartan 800s.

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22 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Don't solder - use shouldered valvegear rivets instead.

 

CJI.

Far quicker than soldering pins. Locate rivet between the two parts on a thick metal sheet, top part to the bottom, two taps check for movement, if loose one more tap check again etc. You are aiming for a joint without slop but not tight.

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12 minutes ago, micklner said:

Far quicker than soldering pins. Locate rivet between the two parts on a thick metal sheet, top part to the bottom, two taps check for movement, if loose one more tap check again etc. You are aiming for a joint without slop but not tight.

 

Even quicker, I use an adjustable, automatic (sprung) centre-punch -  one press, CLUNK, and the joint is made.

 

CJI.

 

 

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38 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Even quicker, I use an adjustable, automatic (sprung) centre-punch -  one press, CLUNK, and the joint is made.

 

CJI.

 

 

Never heard of that method.

How do you know the adjustment needed for different metal thickness?. Adjust the punch incorrectly and you have either jammed solid parts or a floppy joint .

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Having built a couple of sets of valve gear with rivets, it's brass pins for me all the way now. The speed of assembly isn't that relevant as I only build a loco or two per year, so whether it takes one evening or two to put together the gear, it doesn't matter to me. But I do find I can get more control of the process with the pins, and I find it weirdly satisfying to make each link and then snip off the excess, file it clean etc.

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4 hours ago, MarkC said:

You speak for all of us who have had the same concerns, Jesse. Practice on some scrap first - drill some holes in narrow offcuts & have a go. Like most intricate jobs, there's a knack to it, but once you've done a few joints, you'll wonder what the fuss was all about!

 

Cheers

Mark

 

A good option is to use brass pins instead of the rivets supplied in some kits. These can be soldered. I've been doing that for as long as I can remember. Tony does the same.

 

I think I got my first packet of pins from NuCast some 35+ years ago.

 

Should have read all replies above first!

Edited by Woodcock29
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4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

How's this for something different.............?

 

HornbyAPT02.jpg.d16a2d0cc249425192438087229d8826.jpg

 

HornbyAPT04.jpg.4fa45e28d1f884238a22159dfa4e546d.jpg

 

This afternoon, Howard Smith brought over Hornby's latest APT full set (at over £1,300 it's rather an investment!). If one buys the lot, one gets 14 cars plus the test car.

 

We gave it a thorough testing (flat out at times!), and we've made a video which will appear on here and on BRM's WOR. 

 

I think it's an incredible model, though who'll have contemporary WCML layouts big enough to really show it off? As you can see, it takes up a lot of space on Little Bytham, and it required a lens with a huge depth of field to get it all in! 

 

 

Ooooh, nice!

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7 hours ago, jrg1 said:

Use baking foil between the links to stop the assembly seizing up with solder.

Baking foil or baking paper? Cigarette paper used to be the go of course.

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Now number eight, I do the same as Jonathan but grease the components to stop the solder flowing in. I used to use rivets many years ago but found it difficult to get the joints consistently free without being sloppy. The rivets are much bigger than the Duchess pins I use now and required an over large end on some if the smaller valve gear parts. 

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23 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

I have a Peco code 100 3 way electrofrog controlled by two Gaugemaster Autofrogs (ref: DCC80). It was dead simple to wire up and works perfectly.

 

Andy

 

Good morning Andy,

 

I was interested in this as I have a Peco 3-way electro frog point to wire & although the Youtube videos showing how to do it are helpful, using 2 DCC80s should involve less wiring so I looked it up on the Gaugemaster website, but I was left confused by their wiring diagram & that the DCC & DC information is the same (I use DC).

 

It wasn't clear how the DCC80 senses what the polarity of the frog needs to be given the Gaugemaster wiring diagram. Can you explain, please?

 

THanks,

 

William

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15 hours ago, MarkC said:

You speak for all of us who have had the same concerns, Jesse. Practice on some scrap first - drill some holes in narrow offcuts & have a go. Like most intricate jobs, there's a knack to it, but once you've done a few joints, you'll wonder what the fuss was all about!

 

Cheers

Mark

 

 

GWR or BR(WR) is good for this, even the MR interlopers are inside cylindered mainly.

 

But then get later and it is Black 5/Hall and Jubilee/Castle.

 

Oh dear valve gear on two

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