Wright writes.....

[jwealleans]

Tony's is the 52' diagram, the same as mine above. I'll dig numbers out tomorrow if no-one beats me to it.

Edited May 8, 2017 by jwealleans

[Headstock]

Afternoon all

 

I'd appreciate some advice, regarding modelling dry stone walling.

 

After a couple of months of very little interest, I'm returning my attention to Cwm Prysor.

_MG_8758.jpg

 

IMG_5359.jpg

 

I'm close to starting the grass work, and the few Scots Pine's that appeared along the branch. However before then, I need to add a couple of rows of dry stone walling that ran along the moorland road and over the level crossing. The method I'm looking into, is one as used by Ian Nuttall on his Settle and Carlisle layout, Dentdale, which involves making a jig from plasticard strips of different thicknesses. DAS Modelling clay is then added and once dry can be cut into strips of different thicknesses. Below is the drystone walling I'll be trying to recreate and how it is today, granted in a more deliberated state.

IMG_3562.jpg

 

IMG_3565.jpg

 

 

Has anyone tried the above method?

 

Evening Tom,

 

that's a smashing little layout you've got there, I hope that now your interest has been rekindled you will be posting some future updates.

[Headstock]

I'd appreciate any help that the assembled company can provide, relating to a long wheelbase LNER CCT which I constructed some years ago from Parkside Dundas kit No.PC30.

 

SJPIMG_134302170507.jpg

 

I am a Southern Railway modeller, modelling the period 1938 - 1948 and I built this for an inter-regional parcels train but at that time I was unable to discover what lettering and numbering was appropriate and where it should be applied - so the van has sat in a drawer ever since.

 

I believe that a suitable number would be 1247 but I'd appreciate any help that is offered - perhaps someone has built some of these kits for the same period?

 

Tony

 

The LNER built batch had numbers from 1242 to1301 and coded LLCK. I believe that some transfers were produced with all the data lettering some time ago, whether they are still available I do not know. I would have thought that Jonathan (jwelleans) is the expert in such matters.

[Headstock]

Thanks Jonathan,

 

The vehicle you refer to is now being painted. I'm painting it in BR maroon, which fits my period (1958). 

 

E1621 60069 York '59.jpg

 

However, should it not be like this? It looks like the CCT behind SCEPTRE (the last single-chimney A3?) at York in 1959 is the same diagram, but what a peculiar colour. There is a red 'smudge' on the lower bodyside towards the rear. Is that where any brandings were applied? 

 

Speaking of brandings, does anyone know what these vans carried by way of numbers/designation in the late-'50s, please? I can't now find my Larkin book with a picture of one in, but that's too late, anyway. 

 

Mine is a model of an LNER-built van, made during the War years. Does anyone know the BR numbers of these CCTs, please? 

 

Many thanks in anticipation. 

 

I bet it's crimson under the muck not maroon.

[Paul Cram]

Campling only has a 48'6 version built by the LNER numbers as previously given. The NER version was 45'.

[Headstock]

Thanks Jonathan,

 

The vehicle you refer to is now being painted. I'm painting it in BR maroon, which fits my period (1958). 

 

E1621 60069 York '59.jpg

 

However, should it not be like this? It looks like the CCT behind SCEPTRE (the last single-chimney A3?) at York in 1959 is the same diagram, but what a peculiar colour. There is a red 'smudge' on the lower bodyside towards the rear. Is that where any brandings were applied? 

 

Speaking of brandings, does anyone know what these vans carried by way of numbers/designation in the late-'50s, please? I can't now find my Larkin book with a picture of one in, but that's too late, anyway. 

 

Mine is a model of an LNER-built van, made during the War years. Does anyone know the BR numbers of these CCTs, please? 

 

Many thanks in anticipation. 

 

Tony,

 

just about where the red patch appears on your photo was usually some information about what lines that NPC's could or could not work over.

[kandc_au]

Afternoon all

 

I'd appreciate some advice, regarding modelling dry stone walling.

 

After a couple of months of very little interest, I'm returning my attention to Cwm Prysor.

_MG_8758.jpg

 

IMG_5359.jpg

 

I'm close to starting the grass work, and the few Scots Pine's that appeared along the branch. However before then, I need to add a couple of rows of dry stone walling that ran along the moorland road and over the level crossing. The method I'm looking into, is one as used by Ian Nuttall on his Settle and Carlisle layout, Dentdale, which involves making a jig from plasticard strips of different thicknesses. DAS Modelling clay is then added and once dry can be cut into strips of different thicknesses. Below is the drystone walling I'll be trying to recreate and how it is today, granted in a more deliberated state.

IMG_3562.jpg

 

IMG_3565.jpg

 

 

Has anyone tried the above method?

In a word NO.

But what I did was make my own rocks by hand and place them as a dry stone wall is done.

I was quite chuffed with the outcome.

It can seem slow and tedious but in the end, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

 

Khris

 

Edited atrocious spelling.

Edited May 8, 2017 by kandc_au

[jwealleans]

The LNER built batch had numbers from 1242 to1301 and coded LLCK. I believe that some transfers were produced with all the data lettering some time ago, whether they are still available I do not know. I would have thought that Jonathan (jwelleans) is the expert in such matters.

I'm always a little worried if someone describes me as an 'expert' - it usually indicates a global paucity of knowledge than any excess of it on my part. In this case, however, it was me who commissioned the transfers Andrew mentions from John Peck at Precision Labels. I don't believe he advertises them on his site, but you might be able to have a set printed - he's usually very helpful. You'll need to let him have a running number and tare weight; if all else fails, use those off a Hornby model, as far as I've ever seen they're accurate.

 

I detailed one of these on my workbench thread a few years ago, if you fancy tarting it up. One comment I would make, they were never finished in teak. There's a very good colour picture in Paul Bartlett's collection, along with a number of B & W ones, which might be helpful.

[The Johnster]

In a word NO.

But what I did was make my own rocks by hand and place them as a dry stone wall is done.

I was quite chuffed with the outcome.

It can seem slow and tedious but in the end, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

 

Khris

 

Edited atrocious spelling.

 

'I am a dry stone waller and I dry stone dry stone walls.

Of all appalling callings dry stone walling's worst of all'

 

Pam Ayres, absolute genius.

[Blandford1969]

However, Roger also did kits for both the longer versions, which are essentially two of these stuck together. I think you have the droplights for the double doors from one of those. The end strapping, which is on the rest of the etch, is the same, so it may be he's reused that part of the artwork or even that you have a piece of etch which has been left over from another kit or used to replace a damaged part.

 

This is the longer version - Tony has one of the LNER design, which evolved from this, in his exhibition display at the moment.

 

They are lovely vans and superb building and painting. I've got one of the bogie version from a job lot of parts, part build. Does anyone have a set of instructions they would be able to scan? - and did these vehicles last till BR days?

Edited May 8, 2017 by Blandford1969

[Tony Teague]

I'm always a little worried if someone describes me as an 'expert' - it usually indicates a global paucity of knowledge than any excess of it on my part. In this case, however, it was me who commissioned the transfers Andrew mentions from John Peck at Precision Labels. I don't believe he advertises them on his site, but you might be able to have a set printed - he's usually very helpful. You'll need to let him have a running number and tare weight; if all else fails, use those off a Hornby model, as far as I've ever seen they're accurate.

 

I detailed one of these on my workbench thread a few years ago, if you fancy tarting it up. One comment I would make, they were never finished in teak. There's a very good colour picture in Paul Bartlett's collection, along with a number of B & W ones, which might be helpful.

 

Many thanks for this, but how disappointing to find that it should not be teak!

 

I had wondered about this because I was unable to find a relevant picture, but I went ahead because the Parkside Dundas instructions say "Painting: LNER body - teak..."

 

Never mind, I enjoyed my one experience of teak painting and will soon cover it up.

 

Thanks also for the links which are most helpful.

 

Tony

[Mallard60022]

Many thanks for this, but how disappointing to find that it should not be teak!

 

I had wondered about this because I was unable to find a relevant picture, but I went ahead because the Parkside Dundas instructions say "Painting: LNER body - teak..."

 

Never mind, I enjoyed my one experience of teak painting and will soon cover it up.

 

Thanks also for the links which are most helpful.

 

Tony

Some Workshop 'Scruff' (Apprentice) must have mistakenly painted a van like this in 'teak'....................................thus fear not dear heart.

Phil

Edited May 8, 2017 by Mallard60022

[Tony Teague]

Some Workshop 'Scruff' (Apprentice) must have mistakenly painted a van like this in 'teak'....................................thus fear not dear heart.

Phil

 

Aha!

 

I feel an alternate use of Rule 1 coming on....

 

(& on a Southern Railway layout who would know?).

 

Thanks for your kindness!

 

Tony

[jwealleans]

did these vehicles last till BR days?

The bogie ones certainly did, there are photos in Larkin and the Cheona book of them in BR. Instructions I can't help with, I'm afraid, all of mine were bought second hand and rebuilt. Tbh, with a good photo and some thought they're largely self-explanatory.

[Richard E]

I couldn't agree more with the sentiments recently expressed that the 'worth' of any model is either in its construction by its owner or as a result of a specific commission. In the (current) hands of its builder/owner, its resale value (or potential resale value) is, to some extent, irrelevant. It's only when it's sold on, either because its builder/owner no longer needs/wants it, needs to sell it to raise funds or it's to be sold on behalf of a bereaved family, after the builder/owner had died that its monetary value becomes important.

 

DSC_5021.JPG

 

This model fits into the last-mentioned category. It's a Union Mills Q2 in N gauge and was the property of Peter Wild, a long-standing member of Market Deeping MRC who died earlier this year. The 'big thing' behind it is the model of Big Bertha I'm making. 

 

I was a demonstrator/loco doctor at the Market Deeping Show today in Stamford, where Mo and I raised £35.00 for Cancer Research. My thanks to all who donated, either by my fixing their model(s) - even an N Gauge 4-6-0! - or as a percentage of the sale of models on behalf of widows. A large number of Peter's models were on the club S/H stand, including the one above, plus nine more Union Mills locos. None of these sold. 

 

So, the reason for this posting is to ask is there anyone out there interested in the following? They are all Union Mills RTR N Gauge locos. Most are brand new and/or hardly-used. All are boxed. The prices are those suggested by Mkt Deeping Club members, based on the current price of these locos (though I have no idea whether these are 'realistic' since I haven't looked). All are in BR livery. They are.......

 

B12  61572   £79.00

D20  62395   £77.00

J11   64292   £69.00

J25   65685   £69.00

J38   65929   £69.00

J39   64736   £69.00

J39   64829   £69.00

Q2    63344   £75.00

3F    43808    £69.00

7F    49659    £75.00

 

Are these prices fair? Clearly, nobody at the show today thought them 'tempting' enough.

 

They are being offered on behalf of Peter's widow and his family.

 

If anyone is interested, please PM me.

 

My thanks in anticipation.     

Tony

 

I don't know if it helps but these are current Ebay 'buy it now' asking prices from traders (Rails of Sheffield being the main one) for pre-owned UM items:

 

B12  61572   £79.50

D20  62395   £79.50

J11   64292   £79.50

J38   65929   £59.99 to £79.99

J39   64736   £74.99

J39   64829   £74.99

Q2    63344   £79.50

3F    43808    £62.99

 

No J25 or 7F currently for sale.

 

It seems the recommended prices from your/my local club aren't far off.

Edited May 8, 2017 by Richard E

[Mallard60022]

Aha!

 

I feel an alternate use of Rule 1 coming on....

 

(& on a Southern Railway layout who would know?).

 

Thanks for your kindness!

 

Tony

That's because I desire a southern layout and so rule 1 is already engaged.

You are welcome.

Anyway, if it is covered in filth as most vans were then who could tell what paint was used?

A.N. Artist

[Atso]

Hello Tony,

 

I finally found the most recent Union Mills price list as published in the March/April 17 edition of the N Gauge Journal.

 

 

Interesting to note that Rails of Sheffield are charging above the current price of a new locomotive for many of their second hand versions on ebay.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited May 8, 2017 by Atso

[LBRJ]

I must admit the 'couldn't give a crap' in me is attracted to Hornby's ready-to-plonk walling, then it's simply a matter of changing the colour. 

 

The Skaledale range of dry stone walling is actually pretty good- at least as far as it goes.

[Headstock]

I'm always a little worried if someone describes me as an 'expert' - it usually indicates a global paucity of knowledge than any excess of it on my part. In this case, however, it was me who commissioned the transfers Andrew mentions from John Peck at Precision Labels. I don't believe he advertises them on his site, but you might be able to have a set printed - he's usually very helpful. You'll need to let him have a running number and tare weight; if all else fails, use those off a Hornby model, as far as I've ever seen they're accurate.

 

I detailed one of these on my workbench thread a few years ago, if you fancy tarting it up. One comment I would make, they were never finished in teak. There's a very good colour picture in Paul Bartlett's collection, along with a number of B & W ones, which might be helpful.

 

My apologies for using such a dirty word as an expert. would moderately competent suffice?

[chris p bacon]

My apologies for using such a dirty word as an expert. would moderately competent suffice?

Could you further define "Moderately" .......

[Headstock]

Sorry, My mistake, modestly competent.

[Tony Wright]

Thanks for all the help regarding the Chivers CCT, particularly to Jonathan. 

 

 

It's now finished, apart from body-weathering. I doubt if it's dead right (far from it), especially because I think the brake gear might be wrong on one side (I built it as-supplied). Still, just like my locos are 'layout locos' and my carriages/cars are 'layout carriages/cars', then this is a 'layout van', running in a mixed rake of some 30 other items of non-passenger, fitted stock. 

 

Another task just completed was the 'planting' of some allotment-style vegetables for the station cottages' gardens. These came from TimeCast and are made of resin. They can be easily sawn into separate strips. I just painted them and 'bedded them in'. Since gardening and I are incompatible, I have no idea what plants are represented, but they look all right to be. They, and many other items can be obtained from TimeCast, Unit 5E, Centurion Park, Kendal Road, Shrewsbury SY1 4EH. Tel: 01743 465676. E-mail:sales@timecastmodels.co.uk

Website: timecastmodels.co.uk

 

 

Another pupil came today in the form of 'Clearwater'. He's busily building chassis and just needed a bit of help with pick-ups. Not wanting to go over old ground, because he's a DCC-user, for some reason the chassis shorted out when connected to the tender (and I don't mean because I foolishly fitted the pick-ups to the wrong side on one to start with!) So, I by-passed the chip facility in the tender and it ran really sweetly. His homework is to sort it out! 

Edited May 8, 2017 by Tony Wright

[Headstock]

Thanks for all the help regarding the Chivers CCT, particularly to Jonathan. 

 

Chivers CCT 03.jpg

 

It's now finished, apart from body-weathering. I doubt if it's dead right (far from it), especially because I think the brake gear might be wrong on one side (I built it as-supplied). Still, just like my locos are 'layout locos' and my carriages/cars are 'layout carriages/cars', then this is a 'layout van', running in a mixed rake of some 30 other items of non-passenger, fitted stock. 

 

Another task just completed was the 'planting' of some allotment-style vegetables for the station cottages' gardens. These came from TimeCast and are made of resin. They can be easily sawn into separate strips. I just painted them and 'bedded them in'. Since gardening and I are incompatible, I have no idea what plants are represented, but they look all right to be. They, and many other items can be obtained from TimeCast, Unit 5E, Centurion Park, Kendal Road, Shrewsbury SY1 4EH. Tel: 01743 465676. E-mail:sales@timecastmodels.co.uk

Website: timecastmodels.co.uk

 

Time Cast allotment plants.jpg

 

Another pupil came today in the form of 'Clearwater'. He's busily building chassis and just needed a bit of help with pick-ups. Not wanting to go over old ground, because he's a DCC-user, for some reason the chassis shorted out when connected to the tender (and I don't mean because I foolishly fitted the pick-ups to the wrong side on one to start with!) So, I by-passed the chip facility in the tender and it ran really sweetly. His homework is to sort it out! 

 

Tony,

 

I must admit to rather hankering after one of the big Chivers CCT's. I've found that all the Chivers kits that have come my way really excellent builds. In addition, the prototype is a rather fascinating looking van, rather like an extended potting shed on wheels, quite appropriate for your new vegetable garden. Your completed CCT looks very smart, as does Jonathans back up the thread. If anybody has one languishing in the unlikely ever to be built pile, I would offer it a good home.

[jwealleans]

That looks lovely, Tony. I must bring mine out and rework it.

 

Andrew - Matthew Chivers still trades as Five79 Models - he may have some etches or bits left over from the brief period when he sold these. It wouldn't hurt to enquire?

 

They do come up on Ebay from time to time, but not commonly. I picked up the shorter bogie ones at a show, already built and had to strip and remake them.

[thegreenhowards]

Thanks for all the help regarding the Chivers CCT, particularly to Jonathan. 

 

Chivers CCT 03.jpg

 

It's now finished, apart from body-weathering. I doubt if it's dead right (far from it), especially because I think the brake gear might be wrong on one side (I built it as-supplied). Still, just like my locos are 'layout locos' and my carriages/cars are 'layout carriages/cars', then this is a 'layout van', running in a mixed rake of some 30 other items of non-passenger, fitted stock. 

 

Another task just completed was the 'planting' of some allotment-style vegetables for the station cottages' gardens. These came from TimeCast and are made of resin. They can be easily sawn into separate strips. I just painted them and 'bedded them in'. Since gardening and I are incompatible, I have no idea what plants are represented, but they look all right to be. They, and many other items can be obtained from TimeCast, Unit 5E, Centurion Park, Kendal Road, Shrewsbury SY1 4EH. Tel: 01743 465676. E-mail:sales@timecastmodels.co.uk

Website: timecastmodels.co.uk

 

Time Cast allotment plants.jpg

 

Another pupil came today in the form of 'Clearwater'. He's busily building chassis and just needed a bit of help with pick-ups. Not wanting to go over old ground, because he's a DCC-user, for some reason the chassis shorted out when connected to the tender (and I don't mean because I foolishly fitted the pick-ups to the wrong side on one to start with!) So, I by-passed the chip facility in the tender and it ran really sweetly. His homework is to sort it out!

 

Tony,

 

Interesting that the the DCC problems should come up again just as I have finally sorted out the A2/1that you helped me fix when I came to stay. It ran ok on DC, but that was obviously hiding a multitude of micro shorts as I could not persuade it to shift more than a few cms on DCC.

 

I fixed the following shorts.

 

Tender wheels on tender body. Sorted with a shim of platicard to isolate tender body and some filing on the wheel slots in the body which are invisible.

 

Front steps on loco, fixed by very minor bending of the steps.

 

Tender to loco coupling bar shorting against rear of Cartesian truck. Fixed by filing both articles back.

 

And most significantly, the loco brake gear on the driving wheels where the clearances were microscopic. This has been fixed by the drastic step of removing the brake gear!

 

So I now have a sweet running loco, but need to find a solution to the brake gear, possibly by using a plastic RTR version.

 

Has anyone had similar experiences converting American pick up locos to DCC? Any tips gratefully received!

 

Thanks

 

Andy