RMweb Gold Mr.S.corn78 Posted January 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi Cav, I agree that it should be correct but as with everything in life you sometimes get a rouge item and it's not the first time I've had a crossing V that was out by a little and I've had a few where the rail leaving the V was slightly curved due to being in the kit bag. The starting point is all down to personal choice, as the last set of points I built where curved in 2FS it was best to use the stock rail and gauge from that to ensure everything was curved nicely as the smallest was a 1:11 Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mr.S.corn78 Posted January 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi Lee, Did you lay both stock rails at the same time using the black lines as a guide? As I would have started at one side and worked across. Also not being picky but looking at the pictures the straight rail coming off the first V on the left is slightly below the black guide line which would then push the next rail gauged off its guide rail again. As has been mentioned it may be the photo but that's what I can see. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi Lee, Did you lay both stock rails at the same time using the black lines as a guide? As I would have started at one side and worked across. Also not being picky but looking at the pictures the straight rail coming off the first V on the left is slightly below the black guide line which would then push the next rail gauged off its guide rail again. As has been mentioned it may be the photo but that's what I can see. Cheers Simon Hi Simon. Yes, I layed the L/H stock rail first, (as viewed from the toe end), and then started working across with the gauges from that. The second stock rail I just laid and fixed following the template. I think you may have hit the nail here. You are right, that straight rail is slightly off the black line of the template, but it all still lined up perfectly, so I just left it. However, that slight inaccuracy has 'shifted' everything across to the stockrail, with the result that the stockrail now needs resiting to obtain the correct gauge. It's almost as if the whole v end of the point has been skewed across a bit. The only issue is that when I do move that stockrail, it's going to be pretty much on the edge of the sleepers. I may just leave that one rail unfixed until it's placed on a layout ready to lay, and then gauge it and fix it to the main running line. I think that makes sense? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mr.S.corn78 Posted January 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi, Sounds like a plan. Not teaching you to suck eggs but make sure that you store it flat and not likely to get bent or curved. Also make sure to secure the loose rail down so it's not going to catch in anything as I've just finished replacing rails on a few of hand built points for a customer as he had bent some of the exposed ends. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted January 16, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) That crossing vee is the wrong angle and doesn't match the template. It should be 1:6 and looks more like 1:5. Either 1. C&L have supplied the wrong one, or 2. You have mixed them up. The 1:5 vee is intended for the middle vee (the first one starting from the blades). From the blades the order is 1:5, 1:8, 1:6. regards, Martin. Edited January 16, 2015 by martin_wynne Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 That crossing vee is the wrong angle and doesn't match the template. It should be 1:6 and looks more like 1:5. Either 1. C&L have supplied the wrong one, or 2. You have mixed them up. The 1:5 vee is intended for the middle vee (the first one starting from the blades). From the blades the order is 1:5, 1:8, 1:6. regards, Martin. Just to let you know on further checking Martin is correct, I have managed to mix the 1:5 and the 1:6 crossings up. Thanks a lot Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Lee, just been catching up on what you have been up to, nice work as always. Good to see Thornaby's finest passing over your work bench, I always did like their 37/5s! 501 looked great in BS blue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Just to let you know on further checking Martin is correct, I have managed to mix the 1:5 and the 1:6 crossings up. Thanks a lot Martin. Lee We all have been there !! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Lee, just been catching up on what you have been up to, nice work as always. Good to see Thornaby's finest passing over your work bench, I always did like their 37/5s! 501 looked great in BS blue. Hi mate, funny one 501 wasn't it? Never a livery that really floated my boat, but always looks impressive paired up with a red stripe one at the front of a heavy coil train. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted January 16, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2015 Just to let you know on further checking Martin is correct, I have managed to mix the 1:5 and the 1:6 crossings up. Hi Lee, Sorry to hear that. I hope it doesn't cause too much damage putting it right. Are those C&L track gauges in the photo? If so did you intend using those -- they are for the DOGA-Fine standard (16.5mm track gauge with 1.0mm flangeways). Which would mean widening all your wheels to 14.7mm back-to-back (for RTR wheels) or 14.8mm back-to-back (for kit wheels). RTR wheels won't run as supplied over DOGA-Fine tracks, they will jam across the check rails. There are other options which don't require RTR wheels to be modified. I don't want to repeat it all again here because I seem to be writing this stuff over and over again on RMweb. If they are not C&L gauges, apologies, please ignore the above. regards, Martin. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 sorry for the belated response ...but I particularly like this one you have done Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hmm I particularly dont like that one if Im being honest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 sorry for the belated response ...but I particularly like this one you have done Jaz...this is a one I was SENT by a customer to rework! Mr RBE, I entirely agree Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Lee, Sorry to hear that. I hope it doesn't cause too much damage putting it right. Are those C&L track gauges in the photo? If so did you intend using those -- they are for the DOGA-Fine standard (16.5mm track gauge with 1.0mm flangeways). Which would mean widening all your wheels to 14.7mm back-to-back (for RTR wheels) or 14.8mm back-to-back (for kit wheels). RTR wheels won't run as supplied over DOGA-Fine tracks, they will jam across the check rails. There are other options which don't require RTR wheels to be modified. I don't want to repeat it all again here because I seem to be writing this stuff over and over again on RMweb. If they are not C&L gauges, apologies, please ignore the above. regards, Martin. Hi Martin. No worries about re running over the DOGA standards gubbins as I have been through it all before....I'm a bit narked that these are DOGA gauges though,(they were supplied with the C and L kit), I'm building this to normal RTR standards?? Is it just the check rail gauges that are different? The crossings in the kit are all supplied pre built, so I'm presuming they will take standard out the box 00, if not then this shouldn't really be marketed as a 16.5mm 00 gauge kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Love seeing all the projects you are sent in Lee, thanks for sharing them with us. I do like the people in the DMU, never seen these particular styles, did you buy those or were they sent by the customer? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Jaz...this is a one I was SENT by a customer to rework! Mr RBE, I entirely agree ethanolproducer.com I found this one quickly enough, I have to say I still think it good, although that is only my opinion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Love seeing all the projects you are sent in Lee, thanks for sharing them with us. I do like the people in the DMU, never seen these particular styles, did you buy those or were they sent by the customer? Hiya. They were sent by the customer...Preiser I think. Really nicely painted. ethanolproducer.com I found this one quickly enough, I have to say I still think it good, although that is only my opinion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Oh, and in case anyone thinks i'm being 'funny', I follow this thread because I admire the work here. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Oh, and in case anyone thinks i'm being 'funny', I follow this thread because I admire the work here. Well regardless, I found it funny and really appreciate you appreciating my work Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted January 16, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Martin. No worries about re running over the DOGA standards gubbins as I have been through it all before....I'm a bit narked that these are DOGA gauges though,(they were supplied with the C and L kit), I'm building this to normal RTR standards?? Is it just the check rail gauges that are different? The crossings in the kit are all supplied pre built, so I'm presuming they will take standard out the box 00, if not then this shouldn't really be marketed as a 16.5mm 00 gauge kit. Hi Lee, It is difficult to answer these questions without having the kit in front of me. It is very difficult to find specific information on the C&L web site as to what these kits actually contain. But as far as I can see: 1. The only ready-made crossings on the web site are marked for 00/EM and must therefore have 1.0mm flangeway gaps (otherwise they wouldn't work for EM). See: http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_370_371_372&product_id=3221 2. The only 4-slot 00 track gauges on the web site are for DOGA-Fine (16.5mm track gauge, 1.0mm flangeways). See: http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_375_376&product_id=3346 IF (maybe it's a big if) both of these items are supplied in your kit, then NO, it is not suitable for standard out-of-the-box RTR 00 gauge models. But only you know if that is what the kit actually contained. The reason it is difficult to be sure is that C&L change things from time to time. For example they seem to have changed their 00 back-to-back gauge recently -- see: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/94567-oo-sf-and-oo-bf-can-you-mix/&do=findComment&comment=1736088 What you haven't said is whether you want to use DOGA-Fine or not? If you have already widened some of your wheels to 14.8mm then you have to carry on and widen them all -- you can't mix them up on the same layout. If you don't want to widen your wheels then you can't use DOGA-Fine. In that case the way to proceed would be either: 1. obtain a full set of 16.2mm 00-SF gauges and print a new template for 00-SF from Templot, or 2. continue with that 16.5mm template and crossings, but use only the outer slots on those roller gauges. Ignore the inner slots. Obtain a pair of 00-SF 15.2mm check gauges from C&L and use them to set the check rails. regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm81 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Lee, just been catching up on what you have been up to, nice work as always. Good to see Thornaby's finest passing over your work bench, I always did like their 37/5s! 501 looked great in BS blue. She has sound in too as does 502, they're just waiting on me putting the crew in. Now I just need a layout big enough to run them as a pair on a rake of BAA's... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Martin. No worries about re running over the DOGA standards gubbins as I have been through it all before....I'm a bit narked that these are DOGA gauges though,(they were supplied with the C and L kit), I'm building this to normal RTR standards?? Is it just the check rail gauges that are different? The crossings in the kit are all supplied pre built, so I'm presuming they will take standard out the box 00, if not then this shouldn't really be marketed as a 16.5mm 00 gauge kit. Lee You have a bit of a difficult one there, which would be easier to fudge on a plain turnout than a 3 way one. I guess most if not all of your stock is quite modern and has decent wheels. Your main problem is the centre road as the gap between the crossings and wing rails are 1mm (00 should be about 1.2 mm) . As Martin said the gap here really needs to be 16.2 mm not 16.5 mm for RTR stock to run through without increasing the back to back gap on the wheels (who thought 0,3 mm was that important). If you have an electronic calliper it may well be possible to set the gap with it. If you are confused or getting stuck give me a PM John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Has anyone ever had to mix a paint match to Hornby's rather strange version of EWS gold? I'm renumbering a 67 and can't get anywhere remotely close grrr... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 The first of a lot of weathering sessions this morning. 001 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Started work on weathering the big 26. This is a thing of beauty. So tempted to order one for myself from Tower Models. 005 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 006 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 009 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Has anyone ever had to mix a paint match to Hornby's rather strange version of EWS gold? I'm renumbering a 67 and can't get anywhere remotely close grrr... Hi Lee I've not done a 67, but had the same problem on a Hornby EWS 60. Hornby's "gold" band on it was more "yellow-ish" than gold, so rather than spend time trying to match it, easier to mask and re-paint the whole band with the correct colour. Have to agree - that 0 gauge 26 is most impressive !! HTH Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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