porkie Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 That's great Lee. Hope 2015 turns out to another great year for you. Love all the 37's you have done so far Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 That's great Lee. Hope 2015 turns out to another great year for you. Love all the 37's you have done so far Cheers bud! With everything that's going on in the workshop at the moment, it surprises me that it's the (very!) little things that tickle my fancy the most. I really enjoyed weathering these vehicles. 004 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 002 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 015 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 014 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 011 by rothburyuk, on Flickr I was sent a few of these to re work. 022 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 023 by rothburyuk, on Flickr The 7mm 26 now has headlights, soon to be working. 025 by rothburyuk, on Flickr The 7mm HEA hoppers now have their basic colours on. 038 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Another monster lands on the bench. 035 by rothburyuk, on Flickr A rake of the new FTG models SPA wagons have had a tone down. 017 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Something I have wanted to have a crack at for ages, a MERG surface mount circuit build. Looks pretty, but can't get it to work so far..... 032 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveymills Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Those HEAs look like they will be ready in no time ;-) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Those HEAs look like they will be ready in no time ;-) Getting there, they arrived primed and I stupidly thought I would have had them done by now. That was until I realised it was the wrong type of primer, and the first top coats I applied didn't adhere properly Stripped back to brass again, properly etch primed, fingers crossed things stay put this time when the masking tape comes off! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveymills Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Getting there, they arrived primed and I stupidly thought I would have had them done by now. That was until I realised it was the wrong type of primer, and the first top coats I applied didn't adhere properly Stripped back to brass again, properly etch primed, fingers crossed things stay put this time when the masking tape comes off! nice one, thanks Lee. am happy to wait. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 A long time workbench resident, 47643 is finally off to her owner. Full lights have been installed, including independent cabs, tail, and engine room. 47643a by rothburyuk, on Flickr 47643b by rothburyuk, on Flickr 47643c by rothburyuk, on Flickr More progress with the 7mm hoppers. 024 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 022 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Back to 4mm, I have just finished 37026 in faded and weatherworn triple grey livery. She also has a nice big speaker fitted in the tanks. 006 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 016 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 010 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 008 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 004 by rothburyuk, on Flickr These 3 have been made up with spare bodies and chassis, what to do with them? 002 by rothburyuk, on Flickr And finally, something to keep me on my toes! 017 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) These 3 have been made up with spare bodies and chassis, what to do with them? 002 by rothburyuk, on Flickr You could always ask me if I wanted to swap my spare 09 'Dick Hardy' body for one of your blue ones! Edited January 10, 2015 by forest2807 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 That sounds like a jolly good idea! Send me a pm to arrange. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 A Thumper repainted into careworn grotty plain blue. 027 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 009 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 008 by rothburyuk, on Flickr The mighty (and bloody heavy!) Heljan 7mm 26 chassis having some snowplough brackets added. 028 by rothburyuk, on Flickr You can just see them glinting in the light. 032 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Raided the scrapbox for some suitable metal strip. 034 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Cut up the rather chunky Heljan ploughs, and added the centre piece mounting brackets, again from scrap strip offcuts 035 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Started the sleepering on this headache.... 036 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) And finally, something to keep me on my toes! 017 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Lee What thickness are the timbers in the kit ? I see you have some Peco flexi track, if the timbers in the kit are the thinner ones I would try and exchange them for the thicker ones (1.6mm) or better still buy a pack of Exactoscale turnout timbers which are also 1.6mm thick, but the longer timbers on the sprue are much longer than the C&L ones and will save you having to join some together to match the longer ones on the plan Edited January 12, 2015 by hayfield Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TrevorP1 Posted January 12, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2015 That grey 37 looks extremely good. I really do like that. Restrained and very realistic! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 That grey 37 looks extremely good. I really do like that. Restrained and very realistic! Cheers Trevor, one ogf my favourites so far that loco Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Lee What thickness are the timbers in the kit ? I see you have some Peco flexi track, if the timbers in the kit are the thinner ones I would try and exchange them for the thicker ones (1.6mm) or better still buy a pack of Exactoscale turnout timbers which are also 1.6mm thick, but the longer timbers on the sprue are much longer than the C&L ones and will save you having to join some together to match the longer ones on the plan Hi. They are the thin sleepers, but don't worry, if the project it's getting built for ever gets off the ground, the rest of the trackwork will be matching C and L Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Lee Use one of the weaker solvents with plastic on plastic, Butanone and MEK are too aggressive, When laying the turnout make sure the sleeper ends have plenty of glue on them and lay it quite soon after building, as solvent on one side of the timbers has the tendency to curve the sleepers. If glued down well they will stay straight. The longer sleepers in the packs are shorter than the longest on the 3 way. You will have to join two together, do this under a chair position as it both hides the join and strengthens it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 So, C and L 3 way point kit, all of the common crossings supplied made up and ready to go. So what's going on here then? 007 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 006 (2) by rothburyuk, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) The drawing looks to be printed underscale to me. It may be camera angles though. Have you stuck a ruler across the gauge an initial check? Edited January 15, 2015 by RBE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 The drawing looks to be printed underscale to me. It may be camera angles though. Have you stuck a ruler across the gauge an initial check? Yep, rails on the template are correctly gauged. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevpeo Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 You have the curved rail in the check-rail groove in the roller, bottom right Lee! Kev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 You have the curved rail in the check-rail groove in the roller, bottom right Lee! Kev. No I haven't, that is where the gauge is resting because of the position of the opposite rail that it is sitting on properly. Look at the centre road, the gauge is placed correctly on that. The next gauge you are looking at is impossible to place correctly, the second rail coming off the V seems to be at the wrong angle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold griffgriff Posted January 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2015 Is the curved rail curved enough? I think you have some gauge pinching going on. I agree with kevpeo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mr.S.corn78 Posted January 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi, Lee, it's looking good so far but I have to agree with Kevin. The template is used as a guide not a difinitive plan. It's not the first time the templates are out due to printing problems and One of the reasons why in templot you have to calibrate the printer. Even the ready made crossing V's may be out. On a normal point you always lay the stock rail (straight one) first then gauge the rest from that and you would do the same for a three way, lay one rail first, either side would do and then gauge from that. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 The big 26 now has working twin headlights, full bufferbeam detailing, and the tricky snowploughs fitted. Weathering next. 001 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Also made some new door handles up from plasticard. 026 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Bachmann 40 redone as D200. 017 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 018 by rothburyuk, on Flickr The etched headcode discs make a difference too. 022 by rothburyuk, on Flickr A new one on me...a customer sent me a pre printed class 101 interior. Very tricky and time consuming to fit, but I think it's been worth it. 008 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 010 by rothburyuk, on Flickr A job I have been meaning to sort for a while now, as I have started doing a lot of O gauge stuff, was to increase my overall spray booth cover size. You can see the original size from the dark filter, the white surround is new and fabricated from foamboard. I also took the opportunity to improve the lighting and installed a daylight balanced tube. So much easier and better to work with now. 002 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 I agree that the template is a guide but it should be correct in a commercial kit and the Vs should also be correct for the money they cost. Personally I dont buy kits I use rail and sleepers and make my own points based on templot plans. Very rarely do I ever have a straight stock rail. I personally lay the v first to ensure that the diverging point of the turnout is in the correct place and work out from there. I've never been a fan of layong the stock rail first. It does make sense if laying the stock rail as a continuous stretch of main line though so it is useful to do sometimes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi, Lee, it's looking good so far but I have to agree with Kevin. The template is used as a guide not a difinitive plan. It's not the first time the templates are out due to printing problems and One of the reasons why in templot you have to calibrate the printer. Even the ready made crossing V's may be out. On a normal point you always lay the stock rail (straight one) first then gauge the rest from that and you would do the same for a three way, lay one rail first, either side would do and then gauge from that. Cheers Simon That is what has been done Simon. Both stock rails are fixed, and everything has been gauged from them. There is nothing wrong with the template, everything lines up perfectly as it should, bar this last common crossing. I don't think it's entirely clear what the issue is unless you are actually standing looking at the point. I will speak to C and L tomorrow as my money is on the common crossing in the photograph being the wrong one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Is the curved rail curved enough? I think you have some gauge pinching going on. I agree with kevpeo. If I do loosen the glued chairs on that curved stockrail and move it out to obtain the correct gauge, the rail is going to be right on the end of the last few sleepers. I guess that would solve the issue though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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