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Great British Locomotives


EddieB
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The builders plate was moved from the smokebox to the cab side when deflectors were fitted. A quick look through Coster shows no A3 in service with BR with the plates located as in Scotsman after preservation. I must check my Prince Palatine to see what I did.I'm sure I didn't alter it.

I'm about to fit my last Mallard on my last Hornby chassis with the fine valve gear. So far, all I've done is remove the Gbl body from the chassis and remove the plastic handrails.. As it will be in BR,as 60006, the valance will be cut away. I'll put the odd photo up as things progress, but it's a really easy motorisation. Cutting up plastic is very therapeutic and makes a nice change from my other ongoing build of a PDK B16/3.

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Hi Rowanj,

Thanks for the confirmation about the builders plate. And yes I agree with you cutting up plastic is very theraputic. I am just about to start on an old 1980's Hornby 9F using the GBL body and tender. I hope that it comes out as well as the 2 A3's i have just done. It will be a lot more grimy though........  :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

A few pics of the start of what will be the last of the A4's. I always remove the plastic handrails, and will replace the lamp irons on the tender with staples.The body is already hollow so only needs the fixing pegs snipped away. The nameplate needs removing in most cases to allow a longer replacement to fit against the body, and I've made a start on that, too. In earlier jobs, I found the white lining band could continue to show through the new paintwork, so I removed it with a fibreglass pencil as I was doing the same to the numbers on the loco and tender.

 

Next stage is to remove the valance, which will be started with the Dremel and finished with a craft knife. After that rubbing down, and then a coat of primer after fitting new handrails, lampirons, whistle and BR numberplate backing plate  ( which I always find a pig of a job on the A4 front). Finally I'll add a reversing lever and rocking grate lever but I usually do this last after the final coat of BR green.

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Hi all,

Well the work on the 9F I was going to start has not happenned. I realised that in my spares box I had almost enough bits to build 2 Black 5's. For one I needed a replacement chassis. I picked one up from Ebay and when it arrived I realised that it was set up for an XO3 motor and not the tender drive ringfield one as it still has the axel mounted gear/cog fitted. Does any one know if Hornby ever released an engine mounted Black 5, Or have I managed to get my hands on a Pre Production chassis.

Any info would be appreciated.

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Hi all,

Mersey a Black 5 chassis is very cheap. Getting a working tender drive is more expensive. I just paid £10.00 on Ebay for a full chassis and body plus the remains of the tender drive. The reason I commented on the chassis I mentioned is that unlike my other Black 5 chassis this had the drive gear inplace on the back wheel. On all my others it is not there. I have 6 black 5's to check on, They are all the older models and not the rubbish new one.

The 9F will be the GBL loco and Tender body on a Hornby chassis. Was going to use the newer super detailed chassis, But for expediancies sake and cost I am going to use an old ringfield tender drive one.

Just to show I am not a one trick pony fixing engines that are really past their sell by date i do other things as well.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116239-have-you-ever-wondered-what-your-model-railway-looked-like-in-the-real-world/

Well you did not expect it not to be model railways related did you.........  :)

Edited by cypherman
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The Old Tender Drive Hornby Black 5 used the "B12" type chassis block.

 

Black 5 Production versions do not have the Gear Wheel (B12, Flying Scotsman, Hall, etc. Locos did have the gear.)

 

Brass Gears are around Pre 1968, when a Black "plastic" gear wheel was introduced (The X.04 motors kept th eBrass worm...)

 

The X.03 Motors used a Black "Plastic" worm, and a silver grey (or any colour other that Black or Brass). The X.03 Gear Ratio is different, and uses a single start worm.

 

Later versions of the B12 chassis have slots to accept the motion bracket, not needed on the B12 and Hall!

 

The Hornby Black 5 Chassis also has a larger hole in the "Back" to accept the body fixing Screw.

 

The motor position of the B12 was filled by a weight block, which was also the front chassis extension, holding the cylinders. There are two types of Block....one for the "Britannia" Cylinders (and valve gear) and one for the "Duchess" type cylinders and valve gear (Later).

 

More here!

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/76497-sarahs-projects/?p=2477978

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Hi Sara,

Where did you get the valve gear, blocks etc to replace the britannia style valve gear.

 

 

The later Tender Drive Black 5 Locos came with the Duchess type cylinders and valve gear... with the second type of weight block....or the parts can be obtained from spares sellers (Ebay, East Kent Models, Peter's Spares etc.)

 

You would aso need a Pick Up Plate (Tri-ang Hornby Flying Scotsman type.), Motor, wire, and a gear wheel to mate with the motor. A new driving axle can be useful, one with splines in the middle for the driving gear...

 

I haven't yet done so, but it should be perfectly possible to cut the Black 5 weight block down, so the bit in the way of an X.04/ X.03 Motor is clear.

 

The one I made earlier has a Tri-ang Hornby Flying Scotsman type Chassis Extension (Fits the chassis, as it is basically the same chassis block as FS used!), bulked up with Plastic card (see link in previous post...and attached photos)

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Edited by Sarahagain
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.....I have the model of the GBL Black 5 numbered 44781 which up to now I have not been able to begin the conversion to make it run like....

I've been doing mine on and off as 45491 - the only surviving standard wheelbase Five carrying a boiler with forward top feed. I was lucky enough to obtain a Brassmasters chassis, so this will in time - and I'll need plenty of that - be all-singing, all-dancing.

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Mallard is now a BR Green A4. Reversing lever and ash pan lever are from scrap etch, and I roughed up an AWS banger plate. The whistle is Markits from the spares box.

 

I have decided to make some cab doors to try to take the eye from the gap between loco and tender, but I'll fit this last after all the handling the loco will get when being lined and weathered. I have some Hornby draincocks which again will go on late in the day as these too send to disappear, at least on my locos, with even normal handling. I'm not sure if I have any lights, but if so, I'll fit them in "express mode". Real coal will go in the tender.

I'll post the final version for the sake of completeness.

 

 

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Re the Black 5 chassis queries, some time ago there was a supply of Railroad chassis on Ebay, for £30 I think. This is one of my locos using the chassis. I don't recall any great issues, though there was a fair amount of plastic to remove from inside the boiler/firebox. Sometimes I get away with using the tender chassis but not in this case. Again, the source was Ebay.

As an aside, the other loco runs on a Comet clone produced by my friend 46256, and it runs beautifully too !!

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Here is Sir Ralph after a test run, where all went well. It now only needs, or at least it's all it will get,  draincocks, coal and some weathering. I believe it was a "pool" engine at KX and some of the photos show it rather dirtier than the more favoured A4's. But it will still be a lot cleaner han the truly scruffy ones I saw from my home shed of 52A in my spotting days.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

Well I have got as far as I can with the Black 5's. I have not been able to get the replacement valvegear. Also it is too damp to paint the engines in my shed. So they have been put on one side till warmer weather. So I can now start on the 9F. Just waiting for the donor chassis to arrive from Ebay to commence.

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Hi all,

Update on the 9F, The chassis i got for the 9F is unusable due to severe jamming on the wheels, So I have to now get a new one. So that to is on hold until I can get another chassis.

 

That's bad luck. Is it the wheels, in which case I have found Hornby wheels can usually be tweaked to get them "re-quartered". More often, with second-hand chassis, jamming is usually something catching on the valve gear. If the issue is a motor not in mesh, then it can be trickier to fix. You don't say what the source/make of the chassis is, but tender drive 9F need regular lubrication to stop jamming.

Apologies if I'm teaching grandmothers to suck eggs. I'm well on with my PDK B16 and when that's finished, I'll turn my attention to City of Truro running on an old Triang chassis block

John

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Hi Rowanj,

It is a Hornby Railroad chassis.It is not the valvegear as I have romoved that to check.The wheels seem to be quarterd correctly. I have dismantled the whole chassis,oiled the bearings and reassmbled it. It. has made the running slightly easier, But it still occaisionally locks up. Not to worry though as it was a cheap 2nd hand chassis. Only cost me £6.00.If I cannot find the problem it will just be stripped and put in my spares boxes. Since I posted I have found an origional 9F silverseal chassis in mint condition on ebay. So we shall see what happens when it arrives.

Edited by cypherman
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  • RMweb Gold

Prompted by a comment from Steve (LondonTram) on my status yesterday the Gladstone Class came out for a photo shoot. For those that don't remember since it has been a while this started life as a GBL T9 and a Tri-ang M7, the rear wheels were from a Tri-ang Caley Single and were kindly provided by SarahAgain.

 

gladstone8.jpg

 

gladstone9.jpg

 

Hope you enjoyed, would love to hear some feedback, but keep it quite as This won't appear on my layout thread until next week.

 

Gary

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You must know my wife she blames me for everything as well.

 

     Such a noble beast it seems such a shame we've not seen more of her, sorry if you felt pressured.

                                                                                                                                          Regards Steve

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  • RMweb Gold

No Pressure at all Steve. I enjoy showing what I've done. It just got overlooked when I fist painted it as I had a lot on that week and as it spent quite a while packed away as I can't do anything until the new printer comes I forgot to ever take any pictures.

 

It came out again about a week ago while I was taking photos of all my stock for another project but I haven't even looked at those pictures yet as I have only done my locos so far. Your comment was a well timed reminder that I needed to post some pics of it here.

 

Gary

 

EDIT: For anyone who didn't see my status work on this is currently halted until I get a new printer so that I can make transfers, I am getting one for Christmas so expect to see an update early in the new year.

Edited by BlueLightning
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  • Hi all,

Well the new F9 chassis arrived, and low and behold. Hornby cheated. The new railroad chassis are the same as the original F9 ringfield chassis with just a change to the pickups and finer valve gear.So I just swapped over the bits I wanted from one chassis to the other. So the F9 project is underway again. Though I will not get any painting done till the spring and Christmas will also slow things down a bit.

BlueLightning I love the progress you have made with the Gladstone. Only wish I was that talented.

Edited by cypherman
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  • 2 weeks later...

About to start a motorisation of City of Truro using a Triang M7 chassis block. I'm going to try to get a High level compact+ gearbox into the frames where the X04 once stood. This will mean thinning the area between the frames but I've done similar in the past. I'll take photos as I progress, as I think this will be an unusual way to motorising the City, but will be reasonably cheap if it works.A big thanks to RosiesBoss for the original idea.

Edited by rowanj
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