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Great British Locomotives


EddieB
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Omis

 

Is the paint job on the spamcan worse than the Deltic model? (I always used to think that 'spamcan' referred to a diesel from the Thomas books). Those flanges on the front bogie look worse than what went under Lima's 1970s wagons.

 

Omis

 

'Spamcan' was originally applied to 'Merchant Navies' in WW II, when 'Spam' was a notorious meat (?) product.

Edited by Il Grifone
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Obtained the two copies I have on Newsagent Order, one for a neighbour who is 'target market' - not a modeller - so I gave him the better of the two Winston Churchill models.

 Mine has the cab side numbers applied at ' A jaunty angle' (?), but I notice these are stick on labels. Has anyone successfully removed and re applied these. I'd like to do this , but don't have any fall back options should removal go wrong. Any (polite/ practical) suggestions that won't instantly double the cost and leave me with a mass of Southern Region transfers for which I'll have no further use, will be appreciated.

 

Regards,

 

             John

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The numbers on one of mine are self adhesive. There is a gloss background to them.

 

I have just noticed in the list of models on page 2 of the magazine it now includes a GWR king and an intercity 125 power car. Don't remember them on earlier lists 

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Thanks, both.

I was planning on a repaint/renumber to a West Country and so that looks a bit easier as new plates can be stuck on over the printing and the old number peeled off. I might go for a full repaint anyway, my only concern are those loooong straight lines!

Pity it's not a better body, though it's the wheels that appall me most.

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Hi Smiffy 2

 

Just a small point that will be worth keeping in mind if you are going to fit replacement nameplates - the panel joints are slightly heavy and a joint line goes right through the nameplates as they are printed with a horrible effect.

If fitting replacement etched plates I think you will almost certainly find you will need to remove a small bit from the body to allow the plate to sit flat to the casing - although that wont look right as the exaggerated panel joint will run up to the nameplate edge rather than passing under it.

the other alternative would be to slightly pack the nameplate out to clear the panel joint - again not a perfect solution.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I hope it helps your planning

Regards

Thanks.

Looking at a picture of the real Winston Churchill nameplate on semgonline (West Country > Nameplates) there simply doesn't seem to be that line of prominent rivets that are on the model. In fact none of the unrebuilts shown in that gallery have such a prominent line, so I think that whole line of rivets can be disposed of - I can't imagine what they are doing there in the first place.

This picture of the loco I'm planning to model is in BR days, but the nameplate is flush to the casing with no noticeable rivet lines.

http://www.semaphoresandsteam.com/p179250408/h59DE3CFC#h59de3cfc

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The numbers on one of mine are self adhesive. There is a gloss background to them.

 

I have just noticed in the list of models on page 2 of the magazine it now includes a GWR king and an intercity 125 power car. Don't remember them on earlier lists 

Thanks for confirming my eyesight isn't that far gone (yet) Darrel, I thought I couldn't make out the slightly raised profile of the stickers on The Weatheringman's excellent photos, but that's definitely what the cabside numbers are on the two I've had through my hands. Very firmly stuck down too.

Hmmm, back to the question I asked in Post #1518.

 

Regards,

 

             John

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omis

 

I have just noticed in the list of models on page 2 of the magazine it now includes a GWR king and an intercity 125 power car. Don't remember them on earlier lists 

 

Unfortunately there are Hornby prototypes of dubious authenticity to copy here too......

 

They seem to have gone overboard with the panel joints (cf Bachmann Mk I roofs), which is strange as they don't appear on the Tri-ang original AFAIK, though it does appear to be the source of the spurious rivets.

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Finally got around to having a play with my Issue 7 Deltic

 

This was my 1st ever repaint /re number job and involved a repaint and renumber job with detail added to the ends including adding extra handrails, what I was after was 55009 Alycidon in its last year of operation when transferred to York depot and didn't have its white window surrounds.

 

Renumber , TOPS panel, headcode dots and York badge come from Fox Transfers

 

Nameplate from A1 Models

 

detailing comes from Craftsman Models

 

Paint used was Halfords rattle cans with Vauxhall Mustard Yellow for the ends and Peugeot Royal Blue for the body, the blue looks lighter than some of my other Railblue locos but the effect I was after was a buffed up ex-repaint loco not a work stained oily dirty Deltic and I am pleased with how it came out. The other blue I looked at was Ford Fjord Blue as per a list on the forum but this looked even lighter.

The GBL Deltic was an Ideal item to work on been low cost and a good confidence booster to have a go at other things.

 

Here are the results

post-12740-0-04155500-1405009018_thumb.jpg

 

post-12740-0-85434700-1405009064_thumb.jpg

 

post-12740-0-90800400-1405009110_thumb.jpg

 

post-12740-0-04890000-1405009097_thumb.jpg

 

As I say this gave me the confidence to have a go at converting my Hornby Railfreight Sound 08 into a Railblue class 09 including high level pipes hope you dont mind a photo of that too..

post-12740-0-02561000-1405009409_thumb.jpg

 

 

Cheers

Steve

 
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I had a look at the SpamCan in Sainsburys yesterday and that had very wonky cabside numbers and a gold fingerprint on the smoke deflector. That one was probably made after lunch on a Friday!

 

Without doubt its the worst GBL release so far.

 

For what its worth the Jinty looks like it will have a reasonable body, i.e. a Bachmann copy. It just doesnt look like the Hornby version. Unless anyone can prove otherwise all the model pictures on the cover are of the actual model released, warts and all!

 

cheers

 

Shane

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I think that's great work, Nes, and I completely agree about the way that GBL opens up some great, enjoyable opportunities for us, less experienced modellers.

I've now got Schools in two liveries, I'm halfway through repaints of the 28xx and CoT into GWR 1930 livery and I'm on my second Hornby E2 repaint - the new one will have the tank extensions, but as they're plain black that's not so impressive. I've bought the paint for the Deltic but done nothing with it. I weathered a Black 5...

 

Nothing as impressive as some of the work I've seen displayed here, but I'm having a great time, learned new skills and really enjoyed myself. I'm really looking forward to a Locomotion diorama and a couple of T9s.

 

That's worth £8.99 a fortnight, is it not? Or would be if mine had arrived.

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Wossis? A King in skirts?  I don't understand (must have missed something in 30 years not modelling...)

 

You must have missed the addendum to your Ian Allan combined volume.  6031 was King Grayson Perry :no:

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6032 was Albert King, in experimental BR livery?

 

One of the great things about GBL is that you could have a bit of fun.

 

No 940 'Bash Street'

 

No 3443 'City of Broken Dreams'

 

How about an A4 No 35 'Foolscap'?

Edited by Smiffy2
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many thanks for the comments, yes it's very enjoyable especially when it comes together. The best bits were the research - Flickr took a hammering as I checked and checked transfer positioning, the initial un masking after I had sprayed the Deltic ends was another good moment the 08/09 was approached differently where I kept the factory wasp ends by masking them and just spraying the blue. The other thing to do is take your time the Deltic came out way back in April I think and since then I've been checking the search function on this site to see how others do it and get all the bits together.

 

But as others say the GBL locos provide an affordable base to learn new skills.

 

Thanks again,

 

 

Steve

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Just been told by a mate that they are still available to buy in shops here, so I'm thinking about getting 2 of them and making 1 UTA and the other NCC, both weathered (well I'll try to weather them :)) I've got a spare Bachmann jinty chassis so that will be used for 1 of them.

 

Does anyone know where to buy complete jinty wheel sets with couplings? And possibly bearings? I want to make it free running so it can tag on the end or do a double header.

Edited by Nelson Jackson
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