Coach bogie Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 (edited) I am just wondering why K's made such good models of LMS GC and LNER types and such awful models of the GW 28XX and 42XX. The 44XX with a late front end and early short bunker and hideous oversize cylinders You are fully entitled to your opinion but I have no issue with any of these k's kits. With minimal alterations, improvements can be made. K's were made to a budget using standard part in kits. The 44XX sharing the cylinder assembly with other models. It only takes a few minutes with a file to resize and profile. Mike Wiltshire Edited February 5, 2018 by Coach bogie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RThompson Posted February 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 7, 2018 (edited) This is the only K's kit in my collection. A body only kit for the GWR 97xx. Heavily modified with Bachmann chassis, body parts and scratch building. Just realised the photo was taken before etched cab side plates was fitted, oh well. Edited February 7, 2018 by RThompson 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 Looking excellent, these kits were only ever bodyline and fitted (from memory) the Hornby Dublo R1 chassis. With added detail they scrub up really nicely. I do like the heavy whitemetal bodies, not only replicating the mass of the real thing, but improves pulling power Another chassis option is the Southeastern Finecast FC201 HD R1 replacement chassis which is a direct replacement for said chassis, this comes with full brake gear. On the other hand it will be easy to convert the footplate to take other 57xx type chassis like the Comet, High Level and Perseverance I do like the ides of replacing the cab though, from the Bachmann ? as the K's one is very basic and has a few issues Not only a stunning piece of modelling, but a great bit of thought provoking Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 A really nice piece of work there, a true silk purse in every way. My sow's ear is below: [/url] It was bought very cheaply as a complete wreck with damaged and missing castings although the chassis was, more or less, running. The build blog is here [if you have absolutely nothing more fruitful to do with your time...]: https://srmg.org.uk/gwr-97xx-condensing-pannier-tank/ Some better side rods are in order certainly, but I like the fact that it has the original Hornby chassis. It runs with a longish rake of improved Wrenn Mica vans. The rear coupling bar has since been replaced by something rather more discreet. Tony 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 Tony Looks a very good and accomplished piece of modelling, certainly vastly better than any I have bought S/H Quite often Romford wheels become available quite cheaply on eBay and are an easy retro fit on the Hornby Dublo locos, Mainly Trains did a set of replacement coupling rods (I guess others are available) which also improved the look HD R1 chassis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RThompson Posted February 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 7, 2018 Looking excellent, these kits were only ever bodyline and fitted (from memory) the Hornby Dublo R1 chassis. With added detail they scrub up really nicely. I do like the heavy whitemetal bodies, not only replicating the mass of the real thing, but improves pulling power Another chassis option is the Southeastern Finecast FC201 HD R1 replacement chassis which is a direct replacement for said chassis, this comes with full brake gear. On the other hand it will be easy to convert the footplate to take other 57xx type chassis like the Comet, High Level and Perseverance I do like the ides of replacing the cab though, from the Bachmann ? as the K's one is very basic and has a few issues Not only a stunning piece of modelling, but a great bit of thought provoking Anything black/dark green is from the Bachmann 57xx. The weir pump just out for f view came from branchlines, etched sandbox pull rods in front of the front wheel splashers and lost wax brass smokebox dart are from RT Models. Other than that, a lot of scratch building was carried out of the smokebox wrapper and other details. Need to still sort out a hand wheel for the near side rear. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 (edited) Anything black/dark green is from the Bachmann 57xx. Need to still sort out a hand wheel for the near side rear. Well I was going to post in reply to what have you done with your keyser s kit Bought another one!....... and it's a 97XX I was going to put it on a a Bachman chassis haveing enjoyed doing one already But now do I copy you to keep the detail with the Bachman cab? P S proberly not a lot of help but my hand wheel on the first one came from a etch of hand wheels from the much missed Dave Cleal (mainly trains) I only live in walking distance of the last address handy or what! At least it was! Anyone know if he is well out of interest Edited February 7, 2018 by Graham456 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 (edited) Here is my K's 97xx although this one is in TT gauge. It came as a part done up, part soldered part glued, with broken bits, missing bits etc. I know the handrail is over scale, wire soldered to brass screws, but that is part of it for the period. Garry Edited February 7, 2018 by Golden Fleece 30 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 I'm loving the 97XXs. I bought one of these a few years ago still in the blister pack and was wondering how to go about putting it on a Comet chassis. Using a Bachmann body may be the solution. I'm sure I've got a damaged one somewhere. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 I'm loving the 97XXs. I bought one of these a few years ago still in the blister pack and was wondering how to go about putting it on a Comet chassis. Using a Bachmann body may be the solution. I'm sure I've got a damaged one somewhere. Jason Jason If you are not worried about cab detail, Southeastern Finecast do a direct etched replacement chassis, otherwise the Comet chassis is an easy fit. A lot of us are using the High Level Chassis as they work straight out of the box Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killian keane Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 Still mulling over the best way to motorise my milestones Rover class, I've settled on cutting out a large portion of the inner frame (leaving enough to leave the rest structurally sound) and making a motorised brass chassis to carry the rear 6 wheels 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 Lord, these things are like buses: none for weeks then dozens within five minutes! Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 Jason If you are not worried about cab detail, Southeastern Finecast do a direct etched replacement chassis, otherwise the Comet chassis is an easy fit. A lot of us are using the High Level Chassis as they work straight out of the box A few ideas there. I haven't tried a HL chassis yet. I keep meaning to get a Pug kit. The main problem I noticed was how poor the front bufferbeam area is. Obviously designed to fit the chassis. I'll have a good look at Prometheus's link as that's covered there. Also got a J50 that I want to do something with. Even though you can now get the Hornby version for less than it would probably cost to put a decent chassis under it. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 Steve Flints editorial in the March RM makes interesting reading, some sympathy for keeping going with models from the past. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Seen them go for a tenner in the past, I guess if either you need to replace one or as a collector need one to complete a kit, you pay what is required. Ruston, one way of reducing the cost is to sell on the wheels and motor + gears, might even make enough to buy the gearbox I have at last got around to building the Hudswell Clarke kit that I mentioned a few pages back. Until now I had only peered at the parts through the shrink wrap on the cards but now it is revealed in all its glory. The most amazing thing is the motor - it looks and feels like something out of a Christmas cracker. I can feel resistance when just turning the shaft between my fingers when there's no worm and gear on the other end. Fit the worm, gear and axle and it feels like it's not going to run on anything less than full power. I'm going to wire it up with an ammeter, just out of interest, to see how much current it draws when compared with one of those little 99p Chinese motors. So, after that absolutely honest sales pitch do I have any takers for the wheels and motor? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 (edited) So, after that absolutely honest sales pitch do I have any takers for the wheels and motor? Yes your dustbin will take them!.....quite happily Or Perhaps some might like the wheels, I still have a few in service! Edited February 22, 2018 by Graham456 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 I have at last got around to building the Hudswell Clarke kit that I mentioned a few pages back. Until now I had only peered at the parts through the shrink wrap on the cards but now it is revealed in all its glory. The most amazing thing is the motor - it looks and feels like something out of a Christmas cracker. I can feel resistance when just turning the shaft between my fingers when there's no worm and gear on the other end. Fit the worm, gear and axle and it feels like it's not going to run on anything less than full power. I'm going to wire it up with an ammeter, just out of interest, to see how much current it draws when compared with one of those little 99p Chinese motors. So, after that absolutely honest sales pitch do I have any takers for the wheels and motor? I believe that the magnets in motors of that era can lose their magnetism (that is so with Hornby Dublo). To compensate for the lack of magnetic flux, you have to increase the voltage and hence the current. That may be what is happening. Motors of that period weren't that efficient either, so an inexpensive modern can motor will probably be better than an aged K's one anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 so an inexpensive modern can motor will probably be better than an aged K's one anyway. Only 'probably' Jol? Right Dave, lets see this little gem built to your usual high standard! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Only 'probably' Jol? Right Dave, lets see this little gem built to your usual high standard! Fat chance! I've got as far as fitting the smokebox and firebox castings to the saddletank/boiler and to get the front of the smokebox parallel with the front of the tank I've had to file one side of the tank level with the other and lose all the rivet detail in the process. Perhaps I should build it without putting my specs on and then I won't notice these things. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Fat chance! I've got as far as fitting the smokebox and firebox castings to the saddletank/boiler and to get the front of the smokebox parallel with the front of the tank I've had to file one side of the tank level with the other and lose all the rivet detail in the process. Perhaps I should build it without putting my specs on and then I won't notice these things. Welcome to the Wonderful World of K's! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EHertsGER Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) There is a strange allure to these kits for me; once upon a time I laid out my Triang-Hornby ‘layout’ (OK, train set) and wished upon the Railway Modeller/MRC star (for ‘Model Railways’ was for serious people with lathes and soldering irons and stuff..) in the hope I might one day produce one of those ‘K’s kit with Romford drivers’ oft listed in layout write-ups (Stan Roberts’ ‘Middleton to Blewcote’ was where that all started). Nowadays, having beaten, bashed and subdued any number of ‘kits’ into some recognisable shape and indeed had the result whizz around quite satisfactorily, I now find myself hankering after a ‘build’ of a K’s or ‘Wills’ on that rudimentary foundation of either a Triang-Hornby chassis (‘Wills’) or a K’s kit to be run on good ol’ fashioned code 100, venturing no further than the 6’ x 4’ product of CJ Freezer’s imagination. Some days, while fettling metal to the purity of accurate beading along a scratchbuilt tender side, I stop and ponder such things. I feel I have (and my display cases prove it) gone ‘beyond’ those rudiments, but in doing so have missed out on my ‘roots’, so to speak. So, onto the list of kits to build has gone either a K’s pannier (nope, no idea why either) or a ‘Wills’ something that will run on a Triang-Hornby chassis with Romford drivers. It’s a wonderful pastime that enables that as a diversion from the ‘angst’ of making the finest detail ‘just so’. Or is it simply ‘fun’? Best, Marcus Edited February 25, 2018 by EHertsGER 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RThompson Posted February 26, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2018 I fully understand where you are coming from EhertsGER, a lot of kits are quite complicated now and can take an age to build. Sometimes it's nice just to have a simple build and with the minimum of tools (and modifications). As a kit producer it's been nice this week to to do some simple pattern making, cutting and filing brass to shape and soldering the details on and for what the loco is, not a great deal or large parts to do. The hardest and most frustrating was trying to make the driver from milliput. Unfortunately making figures is not my strongest point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 The hardest and most frustrating was trying to make the driver from milliput. Unfortunately making figures is not my strongest point. Why bother when Alan Buttler can supply any number of them - as he is already doing for Hattons. You could even have me! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Alan's 3D printed figures are excellent. If you are looking for earlier period figures as well, then Andrew Stadden's are also very good. The enginemen, Victorian, Edwardian and 1950's, are available with separate arms and heads, so can be posed as required. https://www.acstadden.co.uk/shop-3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RThompson Posted February 26, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2018 (edited) Why bother when Alan Buttler can supply any number of them - as he is already doing for Hattons. You could even have me! I need the figure to withstand going into a vulcanised mould plus the final item needs to be whitemetal to add weight to the loco as its only a bit bigger than my thumb! Edited February 26, 2018 by RThompson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now