Jaz Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Will I agree, if anyone notices discrepancies, we would be happy for them to be pointed out, as this would give us a chance to try to rectify them. There are a couple of small things we know we will have to ignore, but in the main we want to try to get this right. Which is why this part is going so slowly. Hope everyone had a great Xmas and is looking to a happy New Year. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcredfer Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Hi Both, Might it be possible to make the Bridge - pretty much "as is" - then run the road horizontal for maybe an inch or so - followed by the road up the hill being very much steeper and foreshortened [with maybe a touch of false perspective in it, to give an impression of the actual distance]? ................... Just a thought, as it seems, from the photographs to be fronted by lots of other interest too, which might allow the hill to be background itself, if you .. err see what I mean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 If I remember rightly, it dips down (the road does) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D9QOKtrAB0 Skip to 1:20 Will Thank you vey much for this it has some really good reference. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 The layout is looking awesome!! I am enjoying watching your build. If I wasn't so indecisive I could commit to a layout plan and start my own build, for now I just run trains round a couple of ovals Great job on the trees as well ! We all enjoy this hobby in our own way. I often see stuff I admire but don't want to try to replicate. e.g. the brass locos are fabulous, but not something I would want to make, but their detailing threads give some fantastic insight. I admire them but know I don't have the time. At the end of the day...there is no right way just a fun way. The only restrictions is some times our age, our space, and our pockets, and for those who can't there is RMWeb Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Hi Both, Might it be possible to make the Bridge - pretty much "as is" - then run the road horizontal for maybe an inch or so - followed by the road up the hill being very much steeper and foreshortened [with maybe a touch of false perspective in it, to give an impression of the actual distance]? ................... Just a thought, as it seems, from the photographs to be fronted by lots of other interest too, which might allow the hill to be background itself, if you .. err see what I mean. This is exactly the way I suspect we will have to go. The bridge will the the last part we try to do as close to the real thing as we can. Just getting the cameos in will be difficult, some aspects will have to be placed elsewhere around the layout. So we expect to do the easy ones that we have buildings for first, then try to make the area look ok, then place the others as an appropriate space becomes available. The Aidens Arms and Scripps garage being opposite each other will be one of the first to get a good home, The church should follow, Birch Inn isn't in Heartbeat and will probably have it's cameo elsewhere, as making the river for it will require a lot of space. I would like to leave a space that can take the shops and the green,but as those will need to be scratch built in time that decision is still being mulled over. There is still one more layer of foam to go on by the roadside anyway. Beyond the roadway will all be a fudge / compromise regardless. The thing is to 1. make it look good for photographs 2. make it look good for trains entering and leaving Goathland. 3. make the Heartbeat area look like a village. There is also the possibility of re siting Hogsmeade and Hogwarts, which would be simple, and they may suit a spot in the old loft. This would give more space but the waterfall and cove would remain which is not Heartbeat style. Port Lynn town could move though, that area is mostly just plonk on buildings so a sheet of 25mm could be laid there and quickly updated. At the moment I am checking what is the minimum space the cameos need, and whether I can make it look sufficiently Heartbeat to feel happy with it. Anyway another walk through Goathland on Google earth for me I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sasquatch Posted December 27, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2013 I want to wish you guys a very merry Christmas and a happy new year. Albeit a little late. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Nah.... Your 11 and a bit months early Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) Oooooh ooooh What have you been up to that you took so long to post...... Edited December 27, 2013 by Jaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) terraforming rmweb262terraforming14 In the foreground is an area painted ready for grassing, behind it the road which you can see is due to follow grooves cut into the PIR. The main house has two outbuildings on different levels, being a large structure it could be a bed and breakfast establishment, something that Goathlnad has a good number of. To the right is an area still needing a lot of terraforming (it runs over the rail tracks that have just gone under a tunnel rmweb263terraforming15 The large house has several accesses servicing the various buildings. once the paint is dried, more terraforming will follow. I like to colour the ground as it makes it easier for me to judge the space required for the buildings, and consider what dressing items might fit. to the side of some of the road with be pavements or grass verges.the road has been cut in, you can see the areas to be grasses have not been smoothed as the layers of grass will cover this up. rmweb264terraforming16 I am struggling again with downloads and uploads, more pictures will follow as they process. Edited December 28, 2013 by Jaz 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 The back entrance to the main house, fits in nicely with the lane that runs alongside Aidensfield Arms rmweb265terraforming17 I have left a space next to Aidensfield Arms before the lane, because the actually building has an annexe, which I hope in time to scratch build rmweb266terraforming18 Opposite Aidensfield Arms is Scripps Garage, The main house can be seen to the left, there is a space to the right for another small property, then a large gap to the right which if it is large enough could house the church, the church itself fits but I want to add enough of the outside grounds as to produce a reasonable cameo for the church. The wide space here is because there is parking in front of the Aidensfield Arms and there is space for a petrol pump and a vehicle in front of Scripps. rmweb267terraforming19 I am still fighting the good fight with the photograph and will try to put more up soon. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
7APT7 Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Hi Jaz n Kal Hope you had a great Christmas with family etc... Those photos look stunning, the rocks are bumming marvellous... mate Keep up the fine stunning work. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) More of a birds eye view rmweb268terraforming20 another rmweb269terraforming21 you can start to see the bedding in of the road rmweb270terraforming22 closer up, I expect a kerb and a pavement to materialise around here rmweb271terraforming23 In the distance Hogsmeades rmweb272terraforming24 Edited December 28, 2013 by Jaz 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Realy nice modeling chaps!!! wil follow this now... Cheers neil... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Well feel free to offer how you do yours, because as you know yours (Home Layout) is one of our favourites, I love the way you get your colours so realistic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
7APT7 Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Yes Jaz Couldn’t agree more with you on Neil’s layout, I’ve been to his model club in Birkenhead and 'Banks Road' is excellent to and had several play session with loco of my own, Neil loves his class 37's to. Can I ask a question on your Polythene to raise the banks and over the tunnel in a few photos up from here, what was the name of them and where did you get them from, if you prefer not to say where from I understand, (just don’t look at the roof of the house next door to you) lol I want to have a look at what others have used, my brother who works on roof as recommended 'Kings Span' or 'Poly Foam Eco' or 'Celutex Wall Insulator' and what sizes does it come in, most seem to be in 8'x4' (foot) sheets, but come in different thicknesses, ranging from 3mm / 5mm / 10mm / 15mm / 25mm / 50mm and 100mm. as I’m planning my home layout and what materials to use to raise or drop the scenery levels...? Sorry for the long question, hope you answer will be one word... lol Jamie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) Hi JamieNo worries, it is Polyiso, aka PIR not polythene, and so less toxic than foam. It is known as Cellotex, Kingspan etc. but we use Recticel from Jewsons as it was the cheapest.We are buying 8x4 ft boards in 25, 50 And 100mm, as they are most competitive on price being standard thicknesses, but there are many intermediate thicknesses and up to 150mm, but you need to order them in.If you want smaller sizes Wicks sell Cellotex in 2x4 sizes as do others on the Internet.We like it because it is resistant to paints glues and other solvents etc and is also less likely to burn, and does not give of the vapours polythene does when cut.It does powder when sanded and so a mask is recommended, but it is only mechanically a problem, I.e small particles being breathed in, but not chemically toxic.If you take off the foil as we do, you must remove it from both sides or it will curl like a bi-metallic strip and you end up with a giant banana. However once the second metal sheet is removed it will flatten back out.Hope that is not too much detailRegardsKal Edited December 28, 2013 by Kal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Todd Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 'Kings Span Polyfoam Eco Celotex 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1020273444 Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 WOW............That is........a big lauout........very nice!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 'Kings Span Polyfoam Eco Celotex NOT Polyfoam ECO.... It is EPS not PIR and has very different properties. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 Recticel info here: http://www.recticelinsulation.co.uk/product/eurothane-gp-class-0 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) Because we are buying stuff in to insulate the old roof, we are getting a good discount on their sheets. I paid £13.?? for the 25mm and £33.?? for the 100mm, to avoid delivery charges I take a saw when I collect and cut it in half. and the nice man 'cling films' the ends to stop the bits going all over the car. It is more economical to buy it in the large 8x4foot 2440x1220mm sheet rather than buy 4 pre cut sheets. Edited December 28, 2013 by Jaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 I started on the tunnel, cutting into it was not difficult, but I noticed the tunnel was not too symmetrical, deciding if I was scratch building I was doing something that did not have a glaring fault I decided to try the milliput I owned (first mistake) cut of a smallish bit (second mistake should have been a minuscule bit) tried to fix it to the tunnel (third mistake) milliput does not like PIR. Abandoned the tunnel to try and make something with the milliput. This might not be a mistake but about this time I read the paperwork!!!!!!! How long to mould something useful........trying to model something quickly (fourth mistake) is not a bright idea. Racked my brain for something to use the stuff for...and decided sacks (stupid stuff sticking to my DRY hands( fifth mistake) thought ooh repair dome building...checked the ones that need repairing appear to be in boxes....time running out........oh sugar!!!!!!1 Made some bin bags, yes really got a 00 wheelie tried sacks a bit big, then the black bin bags......need to wait for them to dry before painting with black enamel and hope they are shiny enough. Lesson Learned...... Only use milliput when you have decided how to use it....that it can be used in the manner you hope to use it..... and only mix a little.....and expect to work fAST!!!!! Oh having read the paper work I ensured I washed the tools....because other wise there would have been severe swearing tomorrow....... It makes me realise how much I like DAS!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sasquatch Posted December 28, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 28, 2013 Looking good. This thread just keeps getting better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 28, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 28, 2013 I started on the tunnel, cutting into it was not difficult, but I noticed the tunnel was not too symmetrical, deciding if I was scratch building I was doing something that did not have a glaring fault I decided to try the milliput I owned (first mistake) cut of a smallish bit (second mistake should have been a minuscule bit) tried to fix it to the tunnel (third mistake) milliput does not like PIR. Abandoned the tunnel to try and make something with the milliput. This might not be a mistake but about this time I read the paperwork!!!!!!! How long to mould something useful........trying to model something quickly (fourth mistake) is not a bright idea. Racked my brain for something to use the stuff for...and decided sacks (stupid stuff sticking to my DRY hands( fifth mistake) thought ooh repair dome building...checked the ones that need repairing appear to be in boxes....time running out........oh sugar!!!!!!1 Made some bin bags, yes really got a 00 wheelie tried sacks a bit big, then the black bin bags......need to wait for them to dry before painting with black enamel and hope they are shiny enough. Lesson Learned...... Only use milliput when you have decided how to use it....that it can be used in the manner you hope to use it..... and only mix a little.....and expect to work fAST!!!!! Oh having read the paper work I ensured I washed the tools....because other wise there would have been severe swearing tomorrow....... It makes me realise how much I like DAS!!!!! Jaz, I have only used Milliput twice? I have the super smooth variety. It took about 3 hours or so to begin to harden the first time but the next time it went off quicker. I think it was because I had tried ti mix a small amount and it is much more difficult to get the amounts of both parts the same, so I think I had more hardener. I have a little pot of water and dip my tools in it before touching the milliput. Before it begins to go off it is softer than DAS and probably dries harder, although that may be my imagination. I also think that you can get finer detail with it. I also use water when working with DAS. My issue with milliput is that as it has to be mixed and used you have to have time to use it- "I have the next two hours to model in." Also it is a bit slimey, wot with all the water and everything and can leave a white film behind. Tunnel. I assume then that you are carving and not putting a tunnel mouth on it made with a different material? Seeing what you have done with the walls that would work but would not have been how I would have thought about it as you could have a full architechural entrance with drains and wotnot. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) The idea was to model the tunnel which does not need to be any particular model, and then model the road bridge over the Goathlnad tracks which does need to be more exact, i nthe hope that the practise would help me tweak a technique. But the tunnel mouth to my mind is a bit uneven to start with, and does not want to be much larger which would be the easiest way to solve the issue. Plus the top of the tunnel is too close to the top of the PIR, and though it is due to have another layer on top, I do not want to weaken the PIR by chopping willy nilly. I looked at the initial proportions, the tunnel is close to the top, so decided against a too complicated pattern, and did not want to cut small bricks into this material rmweb272tunnel1 The stones were then set out, the lower level would be a different stone rmweb273tunel2 Kal suggested giving it more relief so sanding took place, however at this point the poor symmetry glared out at me hence the milliput...... rmweb275tunnel4 And the reason I don't want to gouge a bigger hole, because exposing much mor of the foil is going to cause a collapse. It was already added to the extra 25mm to allow locos through, Of course building a frontage from 25mm and sticking it on would be a solution but defeated the original purpose rmweb274tunnel3 At the moment I can't get my head round it, so I shall sleep on it and have another think on it. I suspect a clean piece of flat 25mm will allow me to draw and cut a more symmetrical shape. But with the tunnel opening annoying me, and no way to 'fill' it and reshape it, I am at a stand still for the second. And what happened to the milliput rmweb267milliput1 sacks? and bin bags, and people and a wheelie bin to gauge the size. not a particularly productive day. Hopefully black enamel will give them a plastic feel, even some gloss cote won't take two secs. Although Kal got some valuable wiring in. Edited December 28, 2013 by Jaz 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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