A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[bgman]

Your post reminded me that, very many years ago, some of my former work colleagues used etch-resist pens in an HP Plotter to make prototype printed circuit boards.  The same method should be feasible by using the pen holder in a Silhouette.

Hi Mike,

 

Now that's an interesting thought, I wonder how fine the tips are ?

 

Thank you for your comments re: my first "efforts" , I am really enjoying the possibilities with the cutter and will push it further in the future hopefully. I think the use for BG vehicles is an excellent prospect but don't make me start on mine just yet !

 

Grahame

[Robin2]

Your post reminded me that, very many years ago, some of my former work colleagues used etch-resist pens in an HP Plotter to make prototype printed circuit boards.  The same method should be feasible by using the pen holder in a Silhouette.

Interesting. However the Silhouette is intended for cutting around things. I wonder how you could get it to (say) work back and forth to paint over a whole square? And then there would be the problem of getting it to draw a precisely aligned mirror image on the back. I will wait until someone else posts a successful result before rushing off to buy a pen-holder.

 

...R

[bgman]

Interesting. However the Silhouette is intended for cutting around things. I wonder how you could get it to (say) work back and forth to paint over a whole square? And then there would be the problem of getting it to draw a precisely aligned mirror image on the back. I will wait until someone else posts a successful result before rushing off to buy a pen-holder.

 

...R

 

 

Although I haven't used the method there is a fill colour in the menu for whatever shape you draw when pens are inserted, therefore i assume this would be the method to use.

 

I stand to be open for correction or comments in the above with a view to helping with the use of the cutter.

[raymw]

If you can shove thin brass sheet through your Silhouette, then I mentioned previously precoat the sheet, and use a scriber to scratch through the coating where needed. Generally, in etching, you want to remove the minimum of metal, so your etch lines only need to be about the same as the gauge of your sheet. Etch resist pens are basically the same as a sharpie, generally with a harder  fibre tip, which you may be able to sharpen. They tend to dry out, and normally come with a replacement tip. No need to etch from both sides on a thin sheet, simply paint over the back. Look into the old methods of etching, (the old chat up line - 'come up and see my etchings') generally scraping through a wax coating (for printing). However, if you are wanting to do many etches of the same item, then better to use a photo mask - printed onto transparent material, and learn how to apply photo resist to the brass, and expose through the transparency in sunlight, or other source of uv. Once exposed, wash off the exposed (or unexposed - depending on chemistry of photo resist) usually by means of weak caustic soda solution. Been there, got the T-shirts, all with brown stains from Ferric Chloride.

 

However, what you most likely find, in order to get consistent results, you'll have to get the equipment to do so, but much of it can be home made.

[Robin2]

 No need to etch from both sides on a thin sheet,

You do if you want half-etched lines for folding.

 

But the idea of scraping is interesting. In some other posts in this Thread people have modified the cutter blade to make a scrawker - perhaps that could scrape through the etch-resist.

 

...R

[raymw]

 

You do if you want half-etched lines for folding.

It depends. You can stop the etch part way through, dry off and paint over the bits you want half etched (assuming half etches needed on one side). If you precisely need to half etch from both sides, then it is easier to go down the photo resist route, you align the two transparencies, and tape one edge. It'll keep exact alignment when you insert the brass sheet and expose.

[Robin2]

You can stop the etch part way through, dry off and paint over the bits you want half etched (assuming half etches needed on one side).

That is an interesting idea and would be easy to achieve with salt-water electro-etching. I am very new to etching and this had not occurred to me.

 

Going back to your earlier comment about one-sided etching, could I expect to etch right through 10thou or 15thou brass sheet from one side? Presumably it would take longer - but that would not really matter.

 

I wonder how I would know when the half-depth had been reached?

 

...R

Edited May 1, 2017 by Robin2

[raymw]

You'll need to experiment, since the electro etching is something I've intended trying (for the last 20 years or so, being quicker for small jobs compared to waiting for the ferric chloride to heat up although for small pcbs, i use an old electric kettle as a water bath, with an empty coffee jar resting inside- ferric chloride in said jar.) As an aside, which you are aware of, you have to ensure electrical continuity for electro etching, not easy to do for pcb, since you want the copper etched away, isolating the tracks, but for model brass pieces, you don't want the edges of parts to be completely etched away, else it'll drop parts into the bath, and give ragged edges. I used plenty of 'tags' so make sure parts stayed in the sheet.
 
Etching from one side, you may get a tapered edge on thicker pieces, but if you have to square them up/trim with a file, it'll make little difference. Different chemical processes can increase the undercut and give sharper edges. For half depth, then if it takes an hour, say, to etch all the way through, then check at say 20 minutes - again experience will give the answer. Spray etching is much quicker, and generally gives an even control. i.e. For electro etching, it will etch quicker for the part of the sheet nearer the negative connection. Probably best to use a plate parallel to the work-piece, but you need to agitate the electrolyte. You will most likely find that the depth of etch also depends on the width of the line you're etching. Initially I used an old fish-tank air pump to blow plenty of bubbles  up through the liquid to agitate the liquid.
 
This guy is electro etching, similar to what you are doing, but not much fine detail http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Electro-Etch-a-Solid-Metal-Plaque/ He suggests peeling off the waste vinyl from the metal, after it's stuck to the metal sheet. I think that it could leave a trace of etch resistant glue on the metal surface, but worth a try.

[davetheroad]

Although I haven't used the method there is a fill colour in the menu for whatever shape you draw when pens are inserted, therefore i assume this would be the method to use.

 

I stand to be open for correction or comments in the above with a view to helping with the use of the cutter.

 

I think the colour fills and patterns etc are meant for printing on say an ink jet printer. If you include registration marks the cutter will sense these and cut around the shapes. The idea is you produce the whole image and cut it entirely within the silhouette software.

[Robin2]

You'll need to experiment, .....

Thanks for all that.

 

The link you included is one of the things that got me started with electro-etching.

 

I have a nice deep 2 litre plastic container with a clip-on water tight lid so I can keep my salt solution. So far I have just used copper wire for the negative electrode and my last attempt was affected by being etched more nearer the electrode which was at the bottom of the tank. I am now thinking of using some old 00 gauge flexitrack hanging on the sides for electrodes as the sleepers will prevent the brass sheet from touching the rails. I don't know if it will matter that the electrode in nickel silver.

 

...R

[raymw]

Although aiming for a different result, worth a read wrt electrode grid http://nontoxicprint.com/electroetching.htm

[Robin2]

Although aiming for a different result, worth a read wrt electrode grid http://nontoxicprint.com/electroetching.htm

Many thanks.

 

...R

Edited May 1, 2017 by Robin2

[Rob Pulham]

For anyone who is interested, I will be doing an InkScape/Silhouette Cutter demo at the Stainmore Railway Model railway exhibition on the 24/25th of June at Kirkby Stephen East Railway station. A bonus is that admission is free too.

Edited May 5, 2017 by Rob Pulham

[Y_Rail]

Hi all,

 

I just unboxed my new Cameo 3!!! I setup the machine, plugged it to the linux-laptop and even though i have inkscape 0.92 version installed, and i do see the dialog with extensions export/send to silhouette, when i try to send something i get the following message:

 

 

"Inkscape has received additional data from the script executed.  The script did not return an error, but this may indicate the results will not be as expected."  :

 

Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "sendto_silhouette.py", line 122, in <module>
    from silhouette.Graphtec import SilhouetteCameo
ImportError: No module named silhouette.Graphtec

 

When i did connect the Cameo to the laptop, Linux Mint popped up a message about printer with missing driver.

 

Any ideas? I suppose since i do see the export to silhouette dialog, i did install the plugging for inkscape correctly.

 

Many thanks in advance for your help!

 

Update, i did originally copy the required extension files to the usr folder instead of the home folder... this made all the difference for not being able to work (linux). I now have sorted it out and i have it working perfectly on inkscape v0.92. Copying to the usr folder did make the dialog appear but it did not make the machine operable. Copying them to the .config directory in the home folder did make it all work!

 

Out of curiosity, the settings on the export dialog have various types of media and settings for speed and pressure. I tried custom media with speed 3 and pressure 33 but it was not enough for 0.25mm evergreen styrene sheet. I got the autoblade that comes with the Cameo 3 by the way, should i change the blade settings manually? I must also find the trick to lift / un-glue material/papers from the cutting mat without tearing them, it is too sticky.

 

Needless to say, a whole new world has just opened up, and i now hope to contribute more practically to this thread!!!

 

Yannis
 

Edited May 24, 2017 by Y_Rail

[Biased turkey]

I'm starting a new project for  my silhouette portrait : to cut the masks  ( Tamiya masking tape  )  for airbrushing  the 3D printed rolling stock of the TTM vicinal micro-layout.

Here is the first test:

 

 

 

Jacques

 

 

 

 

[Robin2]

I don't know what sort of stuff is needed for masking the sort of thing you want to do but I have used my Portrait to cut masks for etching from sticky-backed vinyl - the stuff you would use for covering shelves etc. There used to be a brand called Fablon.

 

...R

[The Fatadder]

A further update.

I've decided to attempt the Dean bogie for this carriage and here is my Mk.1 effort in the raw. I feel there will be some refinements needed but overall it's getting there I think ?

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

When considering the cost of a brass etch or modifying a rtr bogie apart from time spent on the 2D programme and time spent assembling I reckon the material cost to be significantly low to produce these together with the enjoyment I'm getting from using the Silhouette cutter.

Grahame

That looks amazing, looking forward to seeing it painted.

 

Makes me want one even more seeing it!

Edited May 30, 2017 by The Fatadder

[Biased turkey]

I don't know what sort of stuff is needed for masking the sort of thing you want to do but I have used my Portrait to cut masks for etching from sticky-backed vinyl - the stuff you would use for covering shelves etc. There used to be a brand called Fablon.

 

...R

Thank you Robin2 for the suggestion.

The covered wagon is  quite small ( TT scale) , see the universal reference next to it.

So the mask should be thin and flexible, shouldn't  leave unsightly marking  and ... I already have a roll of Tamiya masking tape.

My second choice  would be  Avert sticker project paper. 

 

Jacques

 

 

 

[Robin2]

 I already have a roll of Tamiya masking tape.

Curious to know how you get the Silhouette to cut that?

 

...R

[jonhall]

You can cut masking tape by sticking it to the cutting mat, then once cut peel it back off afterwards - if you have lettering with O's or any other letter with an 'inside' you can do the same as the vinyl sign makers and use standard masking tape to help transfer it all together.

 

Tamia also do 40mm wide tape on a roll, and A5 sheets.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116018-wd-type-d-open-from-the-djb-kit/ for an example

 

Jon

Edited June 2, 2017 by jonhall

[Robin2]

You can cut masking ...

Thanks. I had assumed that would lose the stickyness and that it would be difficult for the cutter to know where the tape is. Less of a problem with 40mm tape.

 

...R

[Biased turkey]

Curious to know how you get the Silhouette to cut that?

 

...R

1) print a  paper sheet with  the registration marks , cut a 7" by 6"  and glue  it on the mat

 

2) cut a 2" by 18 mm  piece of Tamiya masking tape and glue it on the mat where the mask to be cut will be located

 

 

 

3) 

 

Draw the mask  where the piece of masking tape is located

 

 

And ... cut

 

 

If you want to cut some color paper  ( particularly  black    ) you must add some  registration marks printed on white paper

 

 

 

Jacques

Edited June 3, 2017 by Biased turkey

[Robin2]

Thanks - that's a nifty approach. I had not thought of making a registration piece with a hole in it.

 

That might be useful for lots of things

 

...R

Edited June 3, 2017 by Robin2

[Biased turkey]

A slate roof for the Montfort TT scale brewery.

 

The rows of slates are printed on Avery sticker project paper then cut using the silhouette portrait

 

i printed  a template on cardstock to glue the slates at the right place

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jacques

 

 

[Rob Pulham]

Hi All,

 

Just a reminder to anyone in the vicinity that I will be demoing Inkscape and Silhouette Cutting at the Stainmore Railway in Kirkby Stephen this coming weekend and I look forward to seeing and having a natter with any one who pays a visit.