A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[MikeTrice]

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79025-a-guide-to-using-the-silhouette-cameo-cutter/?p=1259262 show my first attempt, cutting out the glazing bars individually. I was still not totally happy with them so I ended up scribing the glazing bars instead which worked superbly: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/117593-erstfeld-depot-a-swiss-n-gauge-diorama/?p=2582133

[PaulCheffus]

Hi 

 

I built the chassis for this N gauge tanker using the supplied software (Silhouette Studio).

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Robin2]

So far as I can see, neither Microsoft's Word, Publisher nor Excel will save in these formats

I don't use Windows but I do use LibreOffice draw (which is free and does work on Windows) for making my drawings. It is a lot like Microsoft PowerPoint and I wonder if PowerPoint can save its drawings in a suitable format.

 

I also have Inkscape but I am more familiar with LibreOffice Draw and as far as I can see it has a greater choice of ready made shapes than Inkscape.

 

...R

[jonhall]

So far as I can see, neither Microsoft's Word, Publisher nor Excel will save in these formats so how good is Silhouette's own design program. Is it capable of, for example, drawing to scale (1:148) the front elevation of a building showing the window and door positions accurately?

Regards

 

Silhouette studio can produce artwork as if you had drawn it on graph paper with 0.1mm squares - accurate enough for most I would suggest!

 

As some of you may have noticed, I'm demoing my Silhouette cutter (and talking about CAD for LASER and etch if you want) at Scalefourum later in the month.

 

Jon

[Siberian Snooper]

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79025-a-guide-to-using-the-silhouette-cameo-cutter/?p=1259262 show my first attempt, cutting out the glazing bars individually. I was still not totally happy with them so I ended up scribing the glazing bars instead which worked superbly: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/117593-erstfeld-depot-a-swiss-n-gauge-diorama/?p=2582133

I didn't realise that it was 4 years ago that the thread was running.

[Londontram]

I've got a bit of a problem which I hope you chaps can help me with.

 

I draw mainly on Inkscape for no other reason than i'm used to it and find it meets my needs completely. After completing a drawing I save a copy on Inkscape and also convert a copy to a dxf file for the silhouette which generally I don't have any problems with but once in a while I get a problem which is only on something that's been joined by union on inkscape. When the file is opened in silhouette there's extra "lines" across the drawing. At the moment I get rid of them by double left clicking on the line bring up the nodes then just move the line away mostly just laying it over an exciting line. This is more annoying than problematic but I'd like to eliminate it if possible.

 

When preparing a copy for saving as a dxf file I select all and save to path first then save.

 

Sorry if this has been asked before but I don't fancy trawling through 82 pages on the off chance that it has and I've missed it. Here's a few pictures of what I'm trying to sort out.

 

The first is a couple of axle box covers made simply from a square and a circle joined by union the one on the left has been altered the one on the right still has the rouge line running across it diagonally

By double left clicking on the line it brings up these nodes

Then its a simple job to move the line out the way usually laying it over an exciting line as I'm doing in this last picture

 

Any help or ideas much appreciated thanks Steve

Edited September 10, 2017 by Londontram

[terrysoham]

Having read all of this thread I have decided to buy a Silhouette Cameo cutter to cut 10thou Plastikard for aiding the construction of model buildings. However, I need advice as to where to buy it. What are your experiences? I would prefer to buy from a retailer who enjoys a good reputation for service as well as price.

What extras do I buy? Is the longer life cutter worth getting? What other extras should I get?

I have already ascertained that the Silhouette software is good enough for my purposes.

Thanks in advance for your guidance

Edited September 15, 2017 by terrysoham

[Ray H]

Having read all of this thread I have decided to buy a Silhouette Cameo cutter to cut 10thou Plastikard for aiding the construction of model buildings. However, I need advice as to where to buy it. What are your experiences? I would prefer to buy from a retailer who enjoys a good reputation for service as well as price.

What extras do I buy? Is the longer life cutter worth getting? What other extras should I get?

I have already ascertained that the Silhouette software is good enough for my purposes.

Thanks in advance for your guidance

 

Do you actually need a Cameo? The majority of people on here seem to suggest that the Portrait is probably all that most people will need.

 

I bought a Portrait and haven't regretted it yet. I managed to get a unit that had been returned un-used by a customer so was around £91 plus tax from Graphtec. They still appear to have some. They've even got the Cameo on offer.

Edited September 15, 2017 by Ray H

[Regularity]

That price excludes VAT: it is £110. Still a good price - I just bought one!

I also bought a spare blade (reserved for my use, the good lady has her blade) a tool set and a spare mat, so the price including shipping was nearer twice £91, but like the Unimat 3 the investment in these tools reduces my reliance on manufacturers even further.

[Podhunter]

That price excludes VAT: it is £110. Still a good price

It looks like they are reduced in price because the manufacturer is introducing new models.  For example, the Cameo 2 is also on offer at the moment (September 2017).  It's replacement is the Cameo 3.

[Robin2]

and a spare mat,

A piece of card sprayed with Spray Mount can be used as a mat.

 

I discovered that a local print shop gets card (and paper, I guess) in sheets that are a bit larger than the standard Ax sizes to allow for trimming back to the proper Ax size. (I presume all print shops use the same sizes). I got a piece cut in half so I have two pieces each comfortably bigger than A3.

 

...R

[Ray H]

It looks like they are reduced in price because the manufacturer is introducing new models.  For example, the Cameo 2 is also on offer at the moment (September 2017).  It's replacement is the Cameo 3.

 

The Portraits are their Grade B which equates to items which have been out to a customer and returned. They're either unused - mine appeared to be - or have been checked and re-packed.

 

I certainly can't complain about mine.

[JCL]

I've got a bit of a problem which I hope you chaps can help me with.

 

I draw mainly on Inkscape for no other reason than i'm used to it and find it meets my needs completely. After completing a drawing I save a copy on Inkscape and also convert a copy to a dxf file for the silhouette which generally I don't have any problems with but once in a while I get a problem which is only on something that's been joined by union on inkscape. When the file is opened in silhouette there's extra "lines" across the drawing. At the moment I get rid of them by double left clicking on the line bring up the nodes then just move the line away mostly just laying it over an exciting line. This is more annoying than problematic but I'd like to eliminate it if possible.

 

When preparing a copy for saving as a dxf file I select all and save to path first then save.

 

Sorry if this has been asked before but I don't fancy trawling through 82 pages on the off chance that it has and I've missed it. Here's a few pictures of what I'm trying to sort out.

 

The first is a couple of axle box covers made simply from a square and a circle joined by union the one on the left has been altered the one on the right still has the rouge line running across it diagonally

silhouette three.jpg

By double left clicking on the line it brings up these nodes

silhouette two.jpg

Then its a simple job to move the line out the way usually laying it over an exciting line as I'm doing in this last picture

Silhouette one.jpg

 

Any help or ideas much appreciated thanks Steve

 

Hmm, I remember this from a long time ago, but I'm afraid I can't remember off-hand the solution. Mine was that I was getting diagonal lines across the end of a coach. If you can send me 2 files, one from before and one from after merging I can certainly have a look at it next week if you like.

 

J

[Londontram]

Right oh Jason I'll sort it out and get it over to you thanks.

[Ray H]

I bought the Portrait primarily to provide assistance when making buildings for my 4mm layout - any other uses are a bonus! To this end I've started drawing out a pair of semi-detached shops.

 

Previous exploratory work with the cutter has led me to look at laminating plasticard, probably with an outer layer of 0.020" and a supplementary inner layer of the same thickness that will also incorporate the frames for doors and windows. The shops will only be in low relief and there are no openings in the end walls.

 

I'm planning to butt joint the ends to the inside edge of the front.

 

I can see that I need to produce a separate drawing for the front wall layer as the windows and doors will need smaller apertures on the inner wall layer. However, I'm wondering how people would deal with the inner end wall layer.

 

My gut feeling is that I need to take 0.020" off each end of the outer front wall width for the inner front wall layer. Presumably I need separate drawings for the inside end layers as they will also need to be 0.020" narrower (at the front edge - the back of the model will be open).

 

The building will be located next to the Bachmann R-T-P low relief school. This has a degree of relief that provides detectable mortar courses. Consequently my initial thoughts of using Scalescenes printed brick papers are giving way to using Slater's embossed plasticard and this is where I'm really seeking advice - the embossed plasticard appears to be about 0.6mm thick - i.e. approx. 0.025" thick

 

It would be good to be able to use the Portrait to cut the embossed sheets out as well rather than simply stick it on to the outside of the outer (plain plasticard) layer and manually cut the door and window openings using the outer (plain plasticard) layer apertures as guides. Am I being too hopeful?

 

Presumably I would need to make a third drawing of the front and ends with each 0.025" (0.6mm) wider at the ends where they butt join an adjacent side/end. The doors and window openings needn't be any larger than those on the outer (plain plasticard) layer.

 

To complicate matters further, the shops are located on a slope but I know the angle and can incorporate that in the drawings.

[Ron Heggs]

I bought the Portrait primarily to provide assistance when making buildings for my 4mm layout - any other uses are a bonus! To this end I've started drawing out a pair of semi-detached shops.

 

Previous exploratory work with the cutter has led me to look at laminating plasticard, probably with an outer layer of 0.020" and a supplementary inner layer of the same thickness that will also incorporate the frames for doors and windows. The shops will only be in low relief and there are no openings in the end walls.

 

I'm planning to butt joint the ends to the inside edge of the front.

 

I can see that I need to produce a separate drawing for the front wall layer as the windows and doors will need smaller apertures on the inner wall layer. However, I'm wondering how people would deal with the inner end wall layer.

 

My gut feeling is that I need to take 0.020" off each end of the outer front wall width for the inner front wall layer. Presumably I need separate drawings for the inside end layers as they will also need to be 0.020" narrower (at the front edge - the back of the model will be open).

 

The building will be located next to the Bachmann R-T-P low relief school. This has a degree of relief that provides detectable mortar courses. Consequently my initial thoughts of using Scalescenes printed brick papers are giving way to using Slater's embossed plasticard and this is where I'm really seeking advice - the embossed plasticard appears to be about 0.6mm thick - i.e. approx. 0.025" thick

 

It would be good to be able to use the Portrait to cut the embossed sheets out as well rather than simply stick it on to the outside of the outer (plain plasticard) layer and manually cut the door and window openings using the outer (plain plasticard) layer apertures as guides. Am I being too hopeful?

 

Presumably I would need to make a third drawing of the front and ends with each 0.025" (0.6mm) wider at the ends where they butt join an adjacent side/end. The doors and window openings needn't be any larger than those on the outer (plain plasticard) layer.

 

To complicate matters further, the shops are located on a slope but I know the angle and can incorporate that in the drawings.

 

Yes you are correct - The inner layers will need to be 20thou shorter at each end, and the end pieces just 20 thou shorter at the front edge

 

You may have a problem cutting the embossed sheets. First, there may be a issue with holding the sheet to the cutting mat due to the smaller area being in contact with the mat, and the increased movement potential involving the blade repeatedly hitting the raised parts of the embossing. If you wish to do a trial, it may be better to cut the sheet from the reverse side

 

Ron 

[Ray H]

Yes you are correct - The inner layers will need to be 20thou shorter at each end, and the end pieces just 20 thou shorter at the front edge

 

You may have a problem cutting the embossed sheets. First, there may be a issue with holding the sheet to the cutting mat due to the smaller area being in contact with the mat, and the increased movement potential involving the blade repeatedly hitting the raised parts of the embossing. If you wish to do a trial, it may be better to cut the sheet from the reverse side

 

Ron 

 

Thanks Ron

 

I was planning to cut the embossed plastic with the embossed side face down.

 

I've not experienced any problems with cutting small pieces of plain 0.010" plasticard - approx. A6 size, and the embossed will probably be cut from something nearer A4 size.

[Stubby47]

Is there a simple guide somewhere for the best settings when cutting various thicknesses of plain plasticard sheet ?

 

This would ( hopefully) include blade depth and cutter speed and thickness values.

 

Stu

[Ray H]

Is there a simple guide somewhere for the best settings when cutting various thicknesses of plain plasticard sheet ?

 

This would ( hopefully) include blade depth and cutter speed and thickness values.

 

Stu

 

From memory when reading what's appeared in this thread before (and my own experience with the Portrait) you'll only cut cleanly through 0.010" plasticard. Anything thicker will only be scored. The thickness is usually set to 33 and the speed to 1 (& two passes) with the blade set to 10 EXCEPT for the 0.010" when I can get it to cut with a blade setting of around 4-5 (with all the other settings unchanged).

[Stubby47]

Thanks Ray, that's really helpful.

 

I'd already tried the speed set to 1 and thickness of 33, so will experiment more with the blade depth.

 

Do you use two passes for the 10thou ? I take it there are no alignment problems between passes ( as long as the whole sheet is not removed, obviously).

[Siberian Snooper]

The Slaters embossed brick that I used was 15 thou and is almost cut through. Make sure that it's face down and that your drawing is the correct orientation for the brickwork, guess who forgot to turn the drawing through 90.

[Ray H]

Thanks Ray, that's really helpful.

 

I'd already tried the speed set to 1 and thickness of 33, so will experiment more with the blade depth.

 

Do you use two passes for the 10thou ? I take it there are no alignment problems between passes ( as long as the whole sheet is not removed, obviously).

 

I've only made limited use of the Portrait and have set it to two passes (or left it at two passes) even with the 0.010". I suspect doing so unnecessarily would only be of a major concern if you were making a lot of cuts which even with one pass would tie up the machine for ages.

 

I haven't used the Portrait enough to decide the minimum blade depth for the 0.010" plastic - the last time I cut some I used a depth setting of 5 - having jumped from 3 to 5 (because 3 didn't cut through). I did have to snap some out with a depth of 5 but the majority cut so I suspect a depth setting of 4 probably wouldn't hack it possibly unless it was a new blade.

 

I'd already thought about the alignment when cutting the embossed plastic SS, but thanks for reminding me. Luckily, the cutting mat is transparent enough to check that it is aligned properly.

 

First things first, I still need to get the drawings finished for the outer (plain plastic) layer - it's amazing how much of an A4 sheet I've used already even trying to positioning the various parts to take up the minimum of space!

[BG John]

I've done very little with mine, but what I have done I've tested by cutting on paper to start with. Obviously not with the same settings as for plastic though! It saves a lot of wasted plasticard.

[Mikkel]

Thanks Ray, that's really helpful.

 

I'd already tried the speed set to 1 and thickness of 33, so will experiment more with the blade depth.

 

Do you use two passes for the 10thou ? I take it there are no alignment problems between passes ( as long as the whole sheet is not removed, obviously).

 

I use at least two passes for the 10 thou. One thing I've found is that the settings required are different depending on what brands of styrene/plasticard you use. For example, the nicely priced sheets that Wizard have started stocking are fairly dense and need one more pass on my Portrait compared to the same thickness of Evergreen sheet.

[Ray H]

I've made some progress on the building.

 

The brick outer layer is now cut after a brief hiccough with the ends. One end has to be "taller" than the other because the building will be on a slope and they're handed because the building is only in low relief.

 

I took the inner (plain plastic) end shapes and increased their width by the required amount completely overlooking that I'd continually moved the various shapes around to minimise the waste and this included turning it over several times (although I never gave it a thought) knowing that didn't matter with the plain plastic.

 

Guess who initially cut the brick ends the wrong way round?

 

I've had a couple of problems.

 

Firstly, adjacent straight lines often seem to join together and behave as one thereafter. I haven't yet found a way alter each component part individually.

 

Secondly, the roof slope requires cut lines to be drawn diagonally. Is there any way to extend a diagonal line in the same way as you can a vertical or horizontal line? The angle or the line thickness seems to change each time I've tried it.

 

And finally (for this post) . . . 

 

The window and door apertures of the middle (plain white) layer of the laminated front are the same size. Consequently the inside cut edges of the white are clearly visible through the window and door openings. The answer (I presume) is to paint the white edges. Can I do this without fear that any adhesive I use whilst subsequently fixing the inner white layer (which also requires painting and has smaller cut openings) will damage any earlier painting? I don't think my painting precision is good enough to leave it until all the assembly work is complete.