Cwm Bach - A South Wales Branch Line

[81A Oldoak]

Great start to the ballasting, Chris.

 

A couple of questions:

Are those Peco buffers, but with the cross piece changed?

What's the arrangement with the tie-bar of the turnout on the edge of the photo? Is there a point motor hidden in the signal box?

Kev,

In answer to your questions:

 

1. The buffer-stop is a PECO product, but I have replaced the beam in the kit with one made from balsa wood. The rear view of the buffer-stop shows where I have fitted a rod between the side members and attachment plates on the back of the beam. I'm not content with the latter and will replace them. I will shortly be weathering the buffer-stop and dressing the ground in and around it.

2.  The third photo shows the recently ballasted, but as yet unweathered three-way point and the drive arrangement. The rods are driven by Tortoise point motors under the board and what you see will be hidden under Cwm Bach Signal Box. It's a very simple set-up that requires less precision than mounting directly under the tie bar.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[Barnaby]

Dainty indeed Chris.

[Kev_Lewis]

Thanks for answering my questions, Chris.

 

I've actually purchased some Peco buffer-stops to do the exact same thing.

 

Ah ha! The point control looks very ingenious.

[chaz]

 

"I will shortly be weathering the buffer-stop and dressing the ground in and around it."

 

Don't forget some impact marks in your nice red paint.....

Edited June 5, 2014 by chaz

[The Stationmaster]

I can't ever recall a Western stop block painted in the style Chris has adopted apart from some very occasional (and very latterday well post dieselisation) use of a drop of whitewash on the front face of the beam.  The usual Western style was red paint on the front of the beam itself, frequently well stained/weathered where buffers had come into contact with it while the ironwork was treated with what appeared to be a tar or bituminous substance which weathered to a dull black fairly quickly.  The back of metal beams was also painted in this colour and I suspect - but can't be certain - that it was no different on timber ones although they always looked like weathered wood to me and might at one time even have had some red on them.

 

Hopefully the pics below will help (click to enlarge on all of them) and the stop block in the first one (Newton Abbot c.1971 is more or less central in the image, the black in what appears to be a rectangular shape on the face of the beam is unusual.  The second view in Radyr yard in the summer of 1973 shows the black finish and also, just, the faded red on the face of the beam.   It also shows what tended to happen if you hit a stopblock with a rough shunt - the fishplates broke (usually) and the whole thing was pushed backwards working like a sort of retarder and in this case, fortunately, the brakevan involved hasn't gone over the top indicating that it was more likely shoved steadily into the block rather than hitting it as a runaway.

 

 

 

Also, while passing I've included some pics to show what a lamp case looks like on a [G]WR subsidiary signal

 

 

 

 

 

 

[81A Oldoak]

I can't ever recall a Western stop block painted in the style Chris has adopted apart from some very occasional (and very latterday well post dieselisation) use of a drop of whitewash on the front face of the beam.  The usual Western style was red paint on the front of the beam itself, frequently well stained/weathered where buffers had come into contact with it while the ironwork was treated with what appeared to be a tar or bituminous substance which weathered to a dull black fairly quickly.  The back of metal beams was also painted in this colour and I suspect - but can't be certain - that it was no different on timber ones although they always looked like weathered wood to me and might at one time even have had some red on them.

 

Hopefully the pics below will help (click to enlarge on all of them) and the stop block in the first one (Newton Abbot c.1971 is more or less central in the image, the black in what appears to be a rectangular shape on the face of the beam is unusual.  The second view in Radyr yard in the summer of 1973 shows the black finish and also, just, the faded red on the face of the beam.   It also shows what tended to happen if you hit a stopblock with a rough shunt - the fishplates broke (usually) and the whole thing was pushed backwards working like a sort of retarder and in this case, fortunately, the brakevan involved hasn't gone over the top indicating that it was more likely shoved steadily into the block rather than hitting it as a runaway.

 

img291.jpg

 

img149.jpg

 

Also, while passing I've included some pics to show what a lamp case looks like on a [G]WR subsidiary signal

 

img330b.jpg

 

img331b.jpg

 

img331str.jpg

Thanks for the photos Mike. About 90 seconds work should sort out the buffer beam and the modification to the Shunt Ahead arm won't take long either.

[81A Oldoak]

Thanks for the photos Mike. About 90 seconds work should sort out the buffer beam and the modification to the Shunt Ahead arm won't take long either.

I have been looking through my collection of colour albums for prototype shots. Needless to say, buffer stops do not feature prominently with the photographgers seemingly more interested in the trains. A colour photo of Marlow station showing two buffer stops with red beams. One looks freshly painted with no black patches or marks from buffers. The other has buffer marks, but no black patches. A shot of Newtown shows two buffers with red beams and square black patches. Churston, Staines West, Farringdon, Strata Florida, South Molton - red, no black patches. Yelverton - pale grey, no black patches, but buffer stains. Dowlais Cae Harris - looks like weathered, unpainted wood. Anyway, I have whipped some red onto the beam and will add buffer marks in due course.

[Donw]

Mikes photo of the back of the buffer in black with the red front reinforces my memory of these things. I used to see the backs of the ones in Vastern Road goods yard (Reading).

 

I used a similar technque for driving turnouts from tortoise motors with the tortoise reclining on its side as the wasn't sufficient room underneath. I also round that a bit of plastruct tubing could be used to run the rod through when I needed to hide it.

 

I also have trouble with the ballast turning green and usuallycover it with heavy weathering the light gray looks quite good. Perhaps a different ballast would help. I am still using some N scale ballast that I bought 20 years ago.

 

Don

[81A Oldoak]

Work has been interrupted by sunshine yesterday and today as we ended up on the beach at Boscombe. However, I managed some more ballasting this evening; it helps me to sleep. I have also started work on the fiddle-yard board, which I hope to have finished by next week. 

[Donw]

Further to Mike's picture of the Brake van being a bit too close to the buffer, from information elsewhere the chairs just prior to the buffer are specials in that the rail is held upright rather than canted at 1:20. When a rough shunt occurs the whole lot get shoved back and these chairs sometimes get damaged. It seems these are no longer available and in some cases are now missing.

Don

[81A Oldoak]

Some good news from the ballasting front line. My old stock of ballast was finally exhausted and I have replaced it with Woodland Scenics Medium Ballast Gray (sic) B1382. The great feature of this ballast is that it does not darken and turn green with the application of diluted PVA glue. The first photo shows some freshly laid ballast after the glue has set. The second photo shows the old ballast, with the rear-most track set as glued and the front track after dry-brushing with a light grey paint to conceal the green tinge. The new ballast obviates the need for dry-brushing with grey paint, though it will be weathered in due course. A spell of cold and wet weather is now  required so that I stay off the beach at Boscombe and in the garage working on Cwm Bach.

[keefr2]

I think the slight green tinge actually works quite well in the sidings Chris - with the amount of rain we get in South Wales, most things that aren't regularly used or cleaned have a green film of moss or algae on them...

 

Keith

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Some good news from the ballasting front line. My old stock of ballast was finally exhausted and I have replaced it with Woodland Scenics Medium Ballast Gray (sic) B1382. The great feature of this ballast is that it does not darken and turn green with the application of diluted PVA glue. The first photo shows some freshly laid ballast after the glue has set. The second photo shows the old ballast, with the rear-most track set as glued and the front track after dry-brushing with a light grey paint to conceal the green tinge. The new ballast obviates the need for dry-brushing with grey paint, though it will be weathered in due course. A spell of cold and wet weather is now  required so that I stay off the beach at Boscombe and in the garage working on Cwm Bach.

 

Hi Chris,

 

Nice work - keep the photos coming, great inspiration!

 

I think that for Down Ampney, I shall try Copydex or similar instead of PVA, this time, as it stays more flexible and helps with sound deadening etc.

 

ATVB

 

CME

I think the slight green tinge actually works quite well in the sidings Chris - with the amount of rain we get in South Wales, most things that aren't regularly used or cleaned have a green film of moss or algae on them...

 

Keith

Hi Keith,

 

I see what you are saying, yet I dont think that the 'mineral' green works too well in that regard.

 

It may be more appropriate to use Lifecolor's (sic) Damp Effect and/or Grime Effect (Easy 3) products.

 

ATVB

 

CME

[ianwales]

Hi Chris and all

 

I use Astonish wood polish, the cheap version of Johnsons Klear, to stick my ballast, 99p a bottle from Home Bargains, flows nicely without diluting etc and your ballast will smell nicely of tangerine!

 

Ian

[ThePurplePrimer]

Hi Chris

 

The layout is looking great so far

 

If you have time could you give some more details of what you have done with the remote operation using the tortoises please

 

From the pictures I can't quite make out if it's as simple as it looks - is that actuating rod just attached via a piece of tube soldered on ? And at the point end does it have a fixing tube to hold it down or anything ?

[Barnaby]

Looking good Chris and like CME I'm going down the Copydex route watered down with a splash of Meths in it.  Trials seemed to have gone well allowing for some flexing while holding all the ballast in place.  I did it for reasons of sound-proofing but I'm not too sure how much better it is when compared to the concrete slab effect you get with PVA but I'm hopeful.  

 

Spent some time yesterday and today sorting through my scenic bits into built, un-built, painted and un-painted groupings and being very surprised how many bits I have.

 

 

 

 

Regards

Edited June 14, 2014 by Barnaby

[81A Oldoak]

Hi Chris

 

The layout is looking great so far

 

If you have time could you give some more details of what you have done with the remote operation using the tortoises please

 

From the pictures I can't quite make out if it's as simple as it looks - is that actuating rod just attached via a piece of tube soldered on ? And at the point end does it have a fixing tube to hold it down or anything ?

 

Hopefully, the following series of photos shot a few minutes ago will show the off-set drive clearly. The first shot shows one of the Tortoise motors. It is screwed to the underside of the board in the usual manner with a whole cut in the board for the driving linkage. Normally, this would be installed directly below the point with the wire insterted directly into the tie bar. The second photo shows the offset horizontal linking rod. A small piece of brass tubing is glued to the vertical wire from the Tortoise and the link to the point is soldered to the tubing. The third shoot shows the above-board ensemble and the fourth shot is a close up of the link to the tie bar. The wire is simply bent and inserted into a whole in the tie-bar. It is held in place by the natural springing of the bends in the wire. It has taken me longer to take and process the photos and describe the work than to install the above-board rodding.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Chris

[81A Oldoak]

Looking good Chris and like CME I'm going down the Copydex route watered down with a splash of Meths in it.  Trials seemed to have gone well allowing for some flexing while holding all the ballast in place.  I did it for reasons of sound-proofing but I'm not too sure how much better it is when compared to the concrete slab effect you get with PVA but I'm hopeful.  

 

Spent some time yesterday and today sorting through my scenic bits into built, un-built, painted and un-painted groupings and being very surprised how many bits I have.

 

 

 

 

Regards

I'm not too concerned about sound insulation. My locos and trains will move at such slow speeds that the board will not really resonate.

 

Chris

[daifly]

Hopefully, the following series of photos shot a few minutes ago will show the off-set drive clearly. The first shot shows one of the Tortoise motors. It is screwed to the underside of the board in the usual manner with a whole cut in the board for the driving linkage. Normally, this would be installed directly below the point with the wire insterted directly into the tie bar. The second photo shows the offset horizontal linking rod. A small piece of brass tubing is glued to the vertical wire from the Tortoise and the link to the point is soldered to the tubing. The third shoot shows the above-board ensemble and the fourth shot is a close up of the link to the tie bar. The wire is simply bent and inserted into a hole in the tie-bar. It is held in place by the natural springing of the bends in the wire. It has taken me longer to take and process the photos and describe the work than to install the above-board rodding.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Chris

Hi Chris

 

Has this system of rodding had an extended 'test'? My concern is the soldered attachment of the horizontal drive rod to the vertical tube. This tube is moving in a small arc so that at the soldered joint there is a twisting action every time the point is operated which must surely lead to failure of the joint.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[81A Oldoak]

Hi Chris

 

Has this system of rodding had an extended 'test'? My concern is the soldered attachment of the horizontal drive rod to the vertical tube. This tube is moving in a small arc so that at the soldered joint there is a twisting action every time the point is operated which must surely lead to failure of the joint.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Dave,

It has worked without problem on Abersoch Mark 2, my old 4mm scale layout, which is 20 years old. I grant that it is a simple and inelegant lash-up, but, like Miss Shilling's Orifice, is effective.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[daifly]

I suppose you could call 20 years an 'extended test'! I hope it continues to work for you on Cwm Bach.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Dave,

It has worked without problem on Abersoch Mark 2, my old 4mm scale layout, which is 20 years old. I grant that it is a simple and inelegant lash-up, but, like Miss Shilling's Orifice, is effective.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

Hi Chris,

 

I had forgotten about Abersoch - I remember viewing such in RM, what a cracking layout!

 

ATVB

 

CME

[81A Oldoak]

Hi Chris,

 

I had forgotten about Abersoch - I remember viewing such in RM, what a cracking layout!

 

ATVB

 

CME

Thanks for the compliment CME. Abersoch still exists and I posted some photos of Abersoch at Post 22 on this forum: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83601-cambrian-layouts/&do=findComment&comment=1463598     

 

Boduan Junction was lifted to make way for Cwm Bach, on which progress grinds on remorselessly; last night I painted the rust onto some recently ballasted track.

[81A Oldoak]

For some reason my new Noch Grass Master decided not to work when I finally got around to taking it out of the box today. Unfortunately, I bought it over a year ago from Gaugemaster and I don't have the receipt. ):-(

[81A Oldoak]

Id missed that post with the pics of Abersoch MkII, glad I have now seen them

I dont suppsoe you have any of the MkI version of the layout to show us?

Somewhere I have the prints of Abersoch Mark 1 that were taken in the PECO studio in Beer in 1994. However, if you can lay your hands on a copy of the May 1995 edition of the Railway Modeller you will find Abersoch Mark 1 featured as "Railway of the Month".