cctransuk Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 I have a queerie, What is the colour of green for the Union of South Africa?-Ihave read it was Brunswick green,but this seems darker than what it runs today (The mind boggles!!)---ROB Beware of the colour of preserved locomotives - there are some very weird interpretations of BR loco green running nowadays. IMHO, you can't beat http://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/precision-paints/railway-colours/post-1948-colours/colours-for-british-railways-the-nationalised-railway/p100-b-r-pre-1954-locomotive-green-1.html . Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Hi John According to some sources, "Brunswick Green" was never a colour, just an interpretation of green from 1948 onwards. I think I'll stick with Doncaster Green. Thanks for reply.--ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 Just recieved the plastic tender body sides in part 88. I assume the sides are supposed to be flat, mine have a couple of dimples on each side near the front. Also the back has a slight ripple effect. Also its not very square, and pulling it square just curves the back. Running a ruler over the sides is not a good idea as they are not flat. I'm more than a little disappointed. There is nothing complicated in the plastic that could not have been done in etched brass sheet, except the top curve might be difficult without more than basic tools. I think I'll ask for a replacement, but I expect it will be just as bad. Mike J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted June 4, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 4, 2016 It is`nt that bad...... in fact it has`nt got enough ripples................ And they are providing some excellent side strengtheners........ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Man Phil Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 I have a queerie, What is the colour of green for the Union of South Africa?-Ihave read it was Brunswick green,but this seems darker than what it runs today (The mind boggles!!)---ROB Brunswick Green is actually not a colour at all. The true Definition and actual colour is RAL 6007 Bottle Green. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Brunswick Green is actually not a colour at all. The true Definition and actual colour is RAL 6007 Bottle Green. Surely RAL didn't exist during the GWR / BR steam eras? The green used for diesel locos - which I understand to be the same green used on steam passenger locomotives, was specified as Loco green BR Spec. 30- item 34a . However, I gather that reproducing that shade is problematic in the absence of an original colour patch. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) Build so far(-excuse the mess) Edited June 20, 2016 by Blue Peter 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold jcarta Posted June 20, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2016 Looking very nice...... I just hope mine resembles something similar Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Just noticed (Issue 96)--is there another part for the cylinders,does'nt look right at the moment???---Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lemburg Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Probably a shaped brass overlay is on the cards with matching cut-outs for the piston flange and valve spindle -either way it will -no doubt -further compromise ease (if you can call it that)of removing/replacing chassis without damaging all the thin brass outriggers and brackets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lemburg Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 As I decided with my Mallard to complete by scratch building(following the debacle of the wrongly quartered wheels episode) Would be most grateful if anyone can continue the issue /parts list from 71 to date (as produced/edited by Mike 47J 6months ago) I have noted that for the 1st time in their back numbers list(from 97) Hachette are describing the build details -let's hope that this isn't a one off. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lemburg Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 1 cab 2 firebox and skirts 3 boiler and handrails 4 window frames 5 boiler access plates 6 right inner chassis 7 left inner chassis 8 chassis spacers and axel bushes 9 left outer chassis 10 right outer 11 backhead 12 backhead details including water gauge castings that need a lot of work 13 boiler and backhead details 14 boiler details 15 tender chassis 16 cab roof and some details 17 left loco springs 18 more cab roof details 19 right loco springs 20 cab doors 21 loco hornblocks 22 cab seats 23 tender chassis spacers 24 lower tender chassis 25 sand boxes 26 brake tanks and hangers 27 chimney & front chassis fixing plate 28 loco buffer 29 2nd loco buffer 30 water scoop links 31 more water scoop links 32 water scoop castings 33 one driving wheel and axle, actually these wheels and axles are junk so only the screws issue 52 has 6 replacement wheels and 3 new axles but not the screws. 34 tender brake cylinders 35 2nd driving wheel 36 tender brake links 37 3rd driving wheel and axle 38 tender wheel bushes 39 4th driving wheel 40 motion bracket and guard irons 41 5th wheel 42 4 small castings for one side, including slide bar support 43 6th junk wheel 44 4 small castings as 42, for the other side 45 loco buffer fixings, speedo bracket 46 footplate supports 47 steps, rivet strips, speedo bits 48 rear drawbar, chassis spacers 49 9 small castings, speedo gearbox, ashpan support 50 same as 49 51 5 small castings, small lubricator, l/h cab floor 52 3 castings, r/h cab floor, ashpan parts, replacement 6 wheels, 3 axles, balance weights 53 7 castings for the backhead 54 3 backhead castings 55 backhead parts, firebox shelf, hand wheels 56 6 brass backhead castings 57 bogie pivot missing from 41, center wheel crankpins and bushes 58 r/h coupling rods 59 l/h coupling rods 60 safety valves, crankpin covers, coupling rod screws 61 pony axle box and spring l/h 62 pony axle box and spring r/h 63 first tender wheel and axle 64 r/h tender outer frame 65 2nd tender wheel 66 l/h tender outer frame 67 3rd tender wheel 68 Tender floor 69 4th tender wheel 70 Tender buffer beam and drawbar 71 5th tender wheel 72 4 Tender axle boxes 73 6th tender wheel 74 4 more tender axle boxes 75 7th tender wheel 76 6 brake castings 77 8th tender wheel, 1mm brass wire 78 R/H tender steps 79 L/H tender steps 80 6 brake castings 81 2 brake castings, tender brake pull rods 82 brake pull rods 83 brake pull rods 84 sand box castings 85 firebox casting 86 tender body front 87 more tender body front 88 plastic tender body sides and back 89 tender coal hopper 90 tender side supports 91 bogie etch 92 bogie axle boxes, screws, springs and bushes 93 bogie wheel 94 2nd bogie wheel 95 cylinder block etch Many thanks for the issue update -appreciated Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 As regarding cylinder gaps, I don't think there is anything forth-coming,I therefore grabbed the preverbial "Bull" and fettled mine out. remember,this won't be seen on a "Full Skirt"-----Photo's to follow.-----Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 Re-cylinder gaps rectified-----Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 Everybody on holiday?-very quiet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lemburg Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 As a part subscriber I am wondering how Hachette are going to pad out the remaining 27 or so issues! Particularly if -as in my case-the connecting rods and valve gear have been purchased (from premier components) The difficult to source transfers have been provided so other than the rear buffers and a few other detail parts -many of which can be easily fabricated- I am struggling to see how the extra few hundred quid+ can be justified Anybody with any thoughts on this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted August 18, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) Hi Lemburg, I think there was a discussion on the final cost at the very outset and most of us were happy with buying a kit on a monthly basis, even though the final cost is greater than a kit. As far as I`m aware no kit manufacturer offers such a purchase method. Apart from the soft white metal lamp irons and perhaps, for some, the indifferent quality white metal backhead detailing the quality of the rest has been, in my view, excellent. The driving wheels at first where unuseable, but were very efficiently replaced to every subscriber. I too, have replaced the coupling rods etc with Pemier parts, but that is because I hate fabricating etched rods, there is nothing wrong with those supplied. Perhaps the only negative for me has been the offer of a very poor motor and gear box, which I have not bothered with as there are better quality versions available at a similar price. I hav`nt started mine yet, but am certain it will produce a quality model. Bearing in mind, this project is designed for an absolute novice. The instructions on how to build it are second to none............ John Edited August 18, 2016 by ROSSPOP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Hi guys Just to say that I'm still here, pop in regularly to keep tabs on people's progress. Alas I have stopped working on my Mallard for now as I have far to much work left to do on my big A1, I shall return to the build once the A1 is built but this will be many years yet. To add, I agree fully with John (ROSSPOP), the quality and accuracy of this model is very good, as I'm building my A1 (using some works drawings) which for most things is near identical to an A4 under the shell the attention to detail put into this O gauge model is superb, can't fault it. Regards Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Apologies for off topic post: Finally finished Scotsman! With more than a few departures from original mag specs. Now when I get back from holidays, I can once again tear into Mallard! And perhaps have a fiddle with scratch building Scotsman #2, which reposes on the shelf above Mallard.................. One question though, I have noticed that on Scotsman, the trailing bogie / cartezi truck will touch the side frame on sharper curves and cause the drivers to derail because it seems to put all the wheels in a "rigid" position. There seems to be no easy answer for this, the question is therefore, since Mallard has a similar arrangement, is the same issue going to occur with it as well? Anyone got any ideas? Bushrat 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lemburg Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Hello all If there's anybody out there i'm just keeping this topic alive!! I recently reached the stage of priming the body and thought i would pass on a few of my experiences to those that are about to do the same. Firstly the gap where the valance joins the body-particularly at the short vertical section in line with the back of the cylinder fairing -there is some flexing here particularly when installing and removing the chassis. I initially used the single pack filler (which comes in white or green)but I found it brittle and difficult to apply.I found that using a 15amp backing wire glued in the gap(inset not proud) avoids pushing through the 2 part epoxy filler which i prefer to the aforementioned. This filler when mixed can be moistened with water and made into a thin sausage so avoiding a lot of cleaning up which is better for retaining the rivet detail on either side of the gap. Prior to priming i washed the 18 months or so of grease and debris off with a soft toothbrush in a large shallow plastic box to avoid loss of any parts like lamp irons but then made the mistake of using a single pack etching primer without solvent cleaning after the washing/rinsing off process(white spirit would have done) this resulted in a large section on the top of the boiler and the cab roof bubbling as if nitromors had been applied-Apparently etching primer contains zinc chromate which will react(almost immediately)with any lanolin residues which are not visible may i add.In a situation like this leave for 48-72 hours as i did and then remove the mess with white spirit which will not effect the cured areas at all then feather edge in with a flexible superfine abrasive pad. In respect of the topcoat I would not recommend gloss as when using a subsequent varnish over not easy to get a consistently uniform finish-better to use Railmatch which is a satin sheen and accepts transfers well. I used this with the scotsman and achieved excellent results Hope this is useful 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted October 6, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2016 I'm still here in this rather quiet thread. I just haven't built anything yet as I'm waiting for the partwork to finish so I can learn from everyone else's problems before I start. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted October 6, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2016 (edited) Same here......... somebody remind me of how many issues in total ......... But.... I have made these this year............ Edited October 6, 2016 by ROSSPOP 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Me too, still here, noting what others are doing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Man Phil Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Hello all. I, too, have been a little lax. Poor health, lack of enthusiasm, partially due to the ridiculously hot summer, and other people breathing down my neck. I finally received a few long overdue parts from suppliers and was able to complete the valve gear assembly. It all runs nice and smoothly. The Chassis is from JPL Models and needed modifying to fit under the Body. The thickness of the sideskirts in the area of the cylinders required that the cylinders be fabricated in slimline form to fit. Looks like I'm going to have to re-spray the Body because it's been knocked about a bit during the last year while I was building 013 shunters and GWR classes. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickBrad Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 I am another who has yet to start building the Mallard, I was planning to tackle something simpler first as I have never assembled a loco before and this is a lot of money to mess up on, so this thread will be invaluable to me when I do get started. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now