greenglade Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 I today have also e-mailed Hatchette to cancel all future binders and their associated payments, fingers crossed they do as asked.. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sojourner Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 (edited) I'm late starting, so am only at issue 52 so far (received 49-52 today) However, I opted out of binders - a £2-00 lever arch file from Tescos will hold at least half of the total, so less than a fiver for the whole series..... (the components are stored in boxes - haven't started the build yet) Edited November 26, 2015 by Sojourner Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 I enquired to them about a few parts for the scotsman tender.. I was asked by a none railway friend whose late father had bought them all, but with a few omissions to se if they could be sourced. I was told that the whole series was no longer in production! so if anyone has a tender for 4472... I have a friend who would love to see it made up Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sojourner Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 (edited) I enquired to them about a few parts for the scotsman tender.. I was told that the whole series was no longer in production! so if anyone has a tender for 4472... I have a friend who would love to see it made up Not surprising - the series finished 5 years ago..... ebay do have some of the magazines - you might be able to collect the tender parts that way. Edited November 27, 2015 by Sojourner Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted November 27, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2015 ebay do have some of the magazines - you might be able to collect the tender parts that way. Also things like wheels, axleboxes, buffers etc will be readily available from suppliers of O gauge bits. Post a list of what you need on here and I'm sure someone will suggest some sources. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 You could approach Mr Ascough at ACE Models, he will do tenders separately. Or wait for Martin Finney to sell up, then the new owner will, hopefully, offer two types of tender for an A3. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabreman64 Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) When I received Mallard #31 a few months ago, the small sheet of brass parts arrived slightly bent. I finally got around to requesting a replacement issue a couple of weeks ago, which arrived today. However, thanks to Mr Postie, the brass parts with this replacement are even more bent than the original parts. Is there a way to remove slight bends from these small brass parts, or should I request another replacement from Hachette and hope I'm lucky with Mr Postie's delivery? (Incidentally, all the other brass parts with previous issues have arrived undamaged.) Edited November 30, 2015 by Sabreman64 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) Hi everyone, Just got to the point of fitting the cab roof assembly, and I need some advice. The instruction about super glueing it on seems pretty silly to me, it is not a great fit, and I reckon that it would let go fairly easily if anyone (probably me!) were not thinking and picked the loco up partly by the roof. There is nothing to glue onto really, except the thin brass section of the cab sides, which does not mate up well. Also, it seems to me that the steam turret on the backhead would catch when putting into place, and it would be a nightmare to juggle in and attach the backhead assembly with the roof already fitted, so I think that I would be best served by maybe making the roof removable, maybe with screws. So, has anyone else had the same thoughts on this, and do you have any ideas on a solution to the problem? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated, Bushrat Edited December 10, 2015 by bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 You could make it removable by fitting some brass angle to the roof so it's a tight fit onto the cab sides...but you would have to be careful about picking it up, just the same. Update: last week my lost binder and dividers arrived, along with the missing issue 20. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 I stuck the roof on with epoxy, so its not coming off, it did not seem like a bad fit except at the pointy bit at the front.. I tried getting the backhead in and out at the time and it was difficult but not impossible. However, a few more parts have been fitted to it since then, and I have not tried since. I expect it will not be coming out if it ever goes in again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Thanks Mike and Jeff, I combined both or your suggestions, and the idea evolved as below................ Much head scratching and use of Great Aussie Expletives later, I found a less than elegant solution, but it will work. I fashioned two squares of brass sheet left over from one of the larger etch frets, These are about the same size as the rear cab windows. I have been soldering my brass parts rather than glueing, so it was a matter of using alligator clamps to stop the previously soldered cab window assemblies from coming apart. I then proceeded to solder these two plates on to the top of the cab window frames, pointing up at a roughly 45 degree angle. I Clamped the roof in the right position, and drilled through the cab roof and the plates. Tapped in a couple of 12BA brass cheesehead screws so that the thread projects through the plates. Because of the angle, just the screws without any nuts on enable the whole shebang to be lifted by the cab roof. SUCCESS!!! One just has to spring the sides of the cab out to get the initial position right so they go into the holes. When the time comes for final assembly, the screw heads will be removed, and the resulting scar filled and painted, so it wont be seen. I will also be able to trim these plates down in size to make them less obvious and hopefully, with the help of a small "c" clamp, bend them to a snug fit uder the roof. I will use "Sikaflex" adhesive construction silicone as a secondary attachment, which also has the advantage of being paintable. Pity upon me if I ever need to remove it! Sikaflex is good stuff, I dont know if you get it over there, but I actually used it to stick a marble slab about a foot square onto a sandstone headstone when the bolts rusted out about 5 years ago, and it is still holding on, taking the full weight, after being out in the weather and all, so it should work quite well! On mine, with the roof in place, and the cab doors fitted, I tried to slip the backhead in. Now, even with the cab doors open wide it will foul on them, and as I suspected, the steam turret on the backhead top, which fits in the recess created by the sliding hatch assembly in the cab roof. so it is nearly impossible to get it in with any accuracy. I had visions of trying to get this in with the roof attached, epoxy all over everything, and trying to get the position right, and concluded that I have done the sensible thing here! I learned from bitter experience on Scotsman that one follows the instructions as given on these to ones own peril, so I have got into the habit of trying to spot potential problems as I go and doing a workaround. I have used super glue over the years on brass HO scale models, and whilst it is good, it can also let go without warning. Some years ago, I took a shotcut using super glue on a rather expensive brass loco, and glued on a detail part on the footplate. All was well for about two years, when one night, during a running session on a mates layout, the part let go, speared into the track ballast and propelled to loco straight off the edge of the layout and onto the floor, via the head of my mates Labrador dog, much to the mutts displeasure! The dog's head broke the fall, but I still had a badly damaged loco, with a bent footplate which meant a full rebuild and repaint, plus of course a dog who growled at me instantly every time he set eyes upon me after that. Unfortunate, but a lesson well learned! Superglue doesnt like oil, heat, vibration or stress. I have even had it let go on models in storage. Some plastics cannot be glued with it AT ALL (like the Great British Locomotive Collection models) so when it came to Scotsman/Mallard I tried to think outside the square a little bit. Some of the other parts I have modified are as follows; Chassis springs - drilled and pegged with 12BA cheesehead screws, which will have the heads filed down later, the screw head will be hidden by the wheels anyway, the chassis mounting plate in the boiler - drilled and tapped in a 14BA screw in addition to epoxy, as if this were to let go when lifted the chassis would drop, only being held by the two screws uder the cab, and this would bend the whole chassis at the back, The chimney has also been drilled with a 14BA in from under the smokebox, as I figured that this part would also cop a few knocks. So my logic is that if it can fall of, be knocked off, has any kind of stress or strain put on it, the screw it or pin it! I know it's over engineering, but time has taught me that a little prevention is worth a lot of cure! I am building mine as a runner, as I did with Scotsman, not that I have an O guage layout, or even the space for one, but, well, one never knows........ I will post some photos over the next few days to show the modifications above, Cheers, Bushrat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 I have to admit to having had a chuckle at the poor labrador's mishap. Your loco sounds as if it did the same as 70052 near Settle on January 21st 1960, when the right hand slide bar lower assembly fell off, the connecting rod and piston rod, (which had then broken, due to lack of support),fell onto the track, and then pole vaulted the entire loco over the conn rod after digging into the ballast. It did enough damage to the opposite track to derail an oncoming Stanier 5 2-6-0 hauled freight, which then hit the express with five deaths and eight injured. http://www.railwaysarchive.co.uk/documents/MoT_Settle1960.pdf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Settle_rail_crash Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold traction Posted December 13, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 13, 2015 (edited) Hi people, I have got so much on I'm never going to get this finished. A bit gutted as I was looking forward to it, but I have to be realistic and start to slim down everything I'm doing, what with a log cabin with 3 layouts in, a garage with two uncompleted layouts in and a spare bedroom with another layout in, it's time to take stock of what I'm doing as it's getting out of hand, plus I would actually like to stay married! I have all issues and binders up to current issue 63. I've assembled the body and cab, although the cab isn't fixed to the body. I have used super glue, so if required a bath in hot water will no doubt allow it all to fall apart and it can then be cleaned of the lacquer for soldering if you wanted to. I also happen to have two spare cab etches that are still unwrapped and a complete spare body with valences and nose, again still in the plastic pack attached to the issue. Looking for sensible offers, it's actually up to over £500 spent now. I know I won't get anything near that but perhaps a couple of hundred quid would be OK plus P&P as the box will need to be big to get all the parts and binders in. Just PM me if you or someone you know is interested. You could quite easily carry on the subscription from this part as it's all complete and up to date and I won't cancel anything until it's sold. This is how it still looks:- Cheers Ian Edited December 14, 2015 by traction 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 (edited) Happy Christmas and New Year to all! Finally getting around to taking some photos............ The body so far, I fettled the nose section to make it fit the boiler and side skirts, as my nose section was a touch longer on the left side. My solution to the cab roof problem. Screws in roof section will have the heads removed and be filled before painting. Body mounting plate is screwed to inner support for extra strength. Chimney is pinned with a 14 BA screw Springs screwed with 14BA cheese heads - now they wont fall off! Close up of boiler front Backhead so far...A couple of bits need adjusting It is a pain doing all this extra, but I feel that there could be problems with bits coming off otherwise ........ Bushrat Edited December 27, 2015 by bushrat 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Looks pretty good. I might change the cab-roof screws for counter-sunk ones, and maybe the ones for the springs too? Easier to disguise, yet just as strong. I get most of my screws from a place near Gainsborough, by mail order, he does BA and mm screws, and nuts in small or large quantities. Items Mail order, iirc.......here you go: http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/suppliers/40143-ItemsMailOrderLtd Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Looks pretty good. I might change the cab-roof screws for counter-sunk ones, and maybe the ones for the springs too? Easier to disguise, yet just as strong. I get most of my screws from a place near Gainsborough, by mail order, he does BA and mm screws, and nuts in small or large quantities. Items Mail order, iirc.......here you go: http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/suppliers/40143-ItemsMailOrderLtd Hi Jeff, Yair, I considered that, and what you say makes sense, but I felt that the roof was not thick enough in section to countersink safely and be able to cover it up. This way when the final adjustments are made and the nuts in place underneath, all I have to do is cut the head off the screw, wind it in a couple of turns with a bit of loctite or dreaded superglue applied to the thread, and fill the hole, which will be a lot smaller than what would result from a countersunk head. Maybe if it was a thicker section I would have done just that, but I reckoned that this way there's less chance of the fill coming out and being visible. With the spring attachment screws, they are pretty well hidden by the driving wheels, in fact on Scotsman, there were a couple of them behind the drivers, I forget what bit they held on, - I think from memory it might have been a chassis bracing rod somewhere in the middle of it all - with the instruction to file the head down smooth after they were in place, and you cant see them at all once a bit of black paint is on the chassis, so it worked ok. Scotsman chassis pic below, which also shows my cunningly hidden motor, I will be doing the same on Mallard, except I think I will be using the live tender method for my pickups. The Slaters plunger pickups worked sort of ok on Scotsman, but I figure that live tender might be better for this one, (I hope) ! Cheers, Bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Hi all, Although i am not making this model I have followed this thread out of interest. i have notice people talking about supergluing some items. I know this can be a pain as you have little or no time to position the items to be glued. Well I have found a solution to this in the form of Hafixs professional glue. if kept cool it takes about 2 minutes to start to go off and once set nothing it seems can break the bond. I will admit it is not cheap but for 00 models which be very fiddly it works wonders. I have finally found a fix for the mainline 4mt slipping axels problem which has condemned many an engine to the scrap heap as supposed to being unfixable with this glue. www.hafixs.co.uk/products/profglue Hope this helps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Thanks for the above, I'll look some of that stuff up. Bushrat: you fooled me, you never said you'd cut the heads off...LOL 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 (edited) Hi Cypherman, I agree with you on the Hafix, I found a guy selling it at the local markets about six months ago, and after he did a demo I almost broke my arm getting the old wallet out of my pocket! I am pretty hard to impress, but this stuff is pure MAGIC, and also happens to be the ONLY glue that I have found that will stick loose parts onto the models offered in the "Great British Locomotive Collection" series, which I am collecting just out of interest. I don't know what sort of plastic they use but NOTHING will re-glue any of the parts - and there are often loose bits floating about in the packs - that have fallen off. I have tried everything from ordinary super glue, to polystyrene cement, epoxy, and even plumbers pipe glue. They wont stick, but Hafix does. He told me to keep it in the fridge to prolong it's shelf life, which it did, at least it did until I forgot to put it back one night, and even left the top off. Three days later I discovered this to my despair, and it was bye bye Hafix, so I now have to order another off him. I initially thought it was expensive too, and it is at A$30 for the small one, but I got to thinking about that and did a little experiment. I found a plastic screw top container (was a refill bottle from an inkjet printer refill kit) and proceeded to madly open cheap super glue tubes and squirt the contents into it till I had about the same quantity in there. After counting up the tubes of glue I had used I realised that it actually worked out CHEAPER for the Hafix, mainly due to the fact that the tubes of super glue don't have much in them at all, probably only a teaspoon full of glue, and of course once opened and the contents exposed to the atmosphere, half of that usually goes off anyway! And yes, that is true about cold glue taking longer to "grab", it gives one a few extra precious minutes to get things in position. Another little trick I have been told about is to sprinkle bicarbonate of soda over the outside of the joint, which is supposed to accelerate the setting time and also reinforce the bond, another article ( also on "instructables" website ) mentions mixing powdered (filed off) material from the original broken part with the glue itself and using it as a filler! The chap doing it was restoring guitar frets, and it seemed to work well. I haven't tried these tips yet, but I will get around to it..... Another thing that i am going to try is to put some bicarb in and mix it with chilled glue and see if it gives a stronger bond than normal, I figure that if the glue is chilled I will still have some working time left before it sets, and if this little trick works, it might just make super glue a bit more reliable, we will see....................... Jeff - Sorry mate, I should have mentioned that bit about the screw heads, but it slipped my mind completely - seniors moment! You don't actually remove the heads completely, before painting, just file them down until the slot is gone. If you do happen to see them afterwards then they just look like an inspection plate or similar, and after all, these locos had so many bits hanging, dangling and swinging about that I don't think any two were the same anyway! Bushrat (Rattus Australis Horribillus) Edited December 28, 2015 by bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I received issues 64-67 this morning...postman must have been on a manic mission as he managed to damage both tender chassis etches by folding the parcel in half to get it through the letter box...lol top marks to Hachette though, I e-mailed them asking for replacements and got a reply within minutes.....it impressed me.....up to 14 days for the replacements but that's ok as I'm not working on the model right now... Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 My issues 49-52 arrived today, haven't checked them yet, but they were in a cardboard box with a folder, so I'm only looking for missing, rather than damage. Now I have the one with the 6 wheels, I might get round to ordering another couple of sets. Got one or two other LNER Pacifics that might benefit......... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Port Line Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 I've noted an oversight in the instructions for drilling holes in the boiler backhead in part 11. The illustration on page 42 shows the position of only six holes to be drilled 1.2mm for the wash-out plugs (A). Checking images of Mallard's backhead on the web shows an additional wash-out plug between the water gauges and under the regulator gearbox. This is confirmed by the illustration of the backhead on page 216 which shows this extra wash-out plug. I'm attaching the relevant illustrations from the magazine which I hope clarifies all this. In the first, I've added the additional location of the 1.2mm hole (A) in blue ink. Unlike the Flying Scotsman build, Hachette has not recommended painting the backhead before attaching the various fixtures and pipework, so it will be interesting to see how this is covered in a future part. I have started to build my backhead by drilling all the relevant holes followed by painting the backhead and I will then start attaching the various fittings. I am currently sourcing copper wire for the pipework on the assumption that Hachette will be advising painting the brass wire provided with copper paint. This was the approach taken with the Flying Scotsman. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Is the square brass part of the kit? Or something you sourced yourself? And if it's the latter, what size? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Port Line Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Is the square brass part of the kit? Or something you sourced yourself? And if it's the latter, what size? Thanks. Hi JeffP The brass section came with the kit (part 11, I think). It's 1mm square. The instructions suggest cutting lengths of 5mm to represent the plugs. I glued mine in position using epoxy. The remainder of the brass section looks like it may be used for something else later in the build. I hope this helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Received parts 53-6 today. I was surprised to see that there were some exquisite lost wax castings, but the chime whistle was cast in white metal??? That'll be one part replaced, then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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