JeffP Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Sorry to hear that. Why not put a price on it and offer it in the for sale section? Most folk wouldn't have a clue what to offer, I'd think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Awfully ghostly on this site? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyram Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Just read your post Ian. Sorry to hear about your shoulders. I hope the operations go well for you. Sorry I didn't get to Mansfield as I was looking forward to catching up for a chat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Awfully ghostly on this site? Yair Peter, I was thinking that myself. Issue 52 arrived here today with all those lovely wheels, so I have ordered a couple more. Havent compared them yet but they look very similar to the Scotsman wheels..... wish they had given us some extra screws though, they strip the heads so easily... For me, haven't done a thing on mine for a month - trying to sort out a few other things that have a higher priority and getting nowhere fast, never mind, it all takes time! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 I'm not very happy with the tender assembly order. I've done it in the order of the issues, but I think doing 70, assembling the frames to the floor, before 64 and 66 which is adding details to the join between the floor and frame, would have been a lot better. Thinking I need to take it all apart and redo it. Anyone else done this part ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 I'm built up to part 80 almost I think there may be a problem ie:- If the rear buffers (on the tender) are spring loaded, how is that going work as the tender frame comes down through the centre of the hole? (check photo!)----ROB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Mike47j Part 70 was a bit scary I soldered mine and it came out ok.---ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 I'm built up to part 80 almost I think there may be a problem ie:- If the rear buffers (on the tender) are spring loaded, how is that going work as the tender frame comes down through the centre of the hole? (check photo!)----ROB. That is as the prototype so as long as they use the correct buffers with the internal captive spring all will be fine...all looking good... Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 ah..just noticed the guard irons...not sure if it's covered in the instructions (not got that far myself yet) but those irons should be kinked in towards the rails, dog legged for want of a better word so that they are over the rails.. cheers Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Aye-greenglade,you have to bend them to suit--ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 ah..just noticed the guard irons...not sure if it's covered in the instructions (not got that far myself yet) but those irons should be kinked in towards the rails, dog legged for want of a better word so that they are over the rails.. cheers Pete With regard to the guard irons; My experience with Scotsman was one of putting them on when told during the build, and then having them constantly bent until they eventually broke due to the amount of handling that occurs during the build. Ended up having to make new ones, and found it best to make them the last parts fitted before painting, they just get in the way all the time. Try and fit them as late in the build as you can.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 With regard to the guard irons; My experience with Scotsman was one of putting them on when told during the build, and then having them constantly bent until they eventually broke due to the amount of handling that occurs during the build. Ended up having to make new ones, and found it best to make them the last parts fitted before painting, they just get in the way all the time. Try and fit them as late in the build as you can.... they certainly are at risk and often left of in the larger scales due to the problem you've stated...I'm a little pedantic (or is that just mad) with my builds and so everything that the prototype had must be on my models no matter how impractical..... as reference this is my er slightly larger model.... which shows the shape of the guard irons for the tender...the model has moved on a long way from this picture though...lining has been tidied up (not noticed until close ups like this were taken) and the buffer straightened although I still need to paint the buffer stocks black....lot's to do... regards Pete 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 All's went ghostly the now! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 I've just had issues 65 / 68 this morning, for those further along in the subscription what tender type is it? Corridor or non? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Hi Steve...no one has got to the tender body yet but I can say it's a non-corridor tender.. http://www.buildthemallard.com/ cheers Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Watch this space--we are here to help--|ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweedy Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Hi Steve...no one has got to the tender body yet but I can say it's a non-corridor tender.. http://www.buildthemallard.com/ cheers Pete That would be right before March 1948, so with the model appearing to be in original condition with skirting, the non-corridor streamline tender would be correct. When first out-shopped it was 5642 until March 1939, and then 5639. From March 1948 she was fitted with a 1928 style corridor tender (first fitted to flying scotsman) and then 3 other through to withdrawal in 1963. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Mine will be having the skirts removed and done in 1962 condition. OzzyO who will be doing the build has the Hachette flying Scotsman kit still Unstarted so we will do a tender swop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Where will you source a corridor tender? remember there were two types, I THINK Mallard had the streamlined type in 1962, that one isn't readily available. ACE (Mr Ascough) MAY do you one out of the Acorn/Big Four kit? The Finney one is non-streamlined. I'm going to have the same problem for Silver Fox circa 1962. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 We have looked in to this and probably use the corridor tender supplied with the flying Scotsman kit and use this as a basis to do the streamlined version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Do you have such a kit? IIRC, it is the 1928 version, so if you are going to do a conversion, the Finney one would be a better bet? Or get the Acorn one, his is the correct version and the tender not so difficult. He quoted me a reasonable price for one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 To be honest Jeff I'm not sure, what version was supplied with the Hachette Flying Scotsman kit? This is the one we are hoping to use as a basis. My knowledge of the Eastern stuff is not as good as the good old Western ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) From the Gresley society's "Chime" magazine, the following might be of use: From release to traffic to 1939, tender No 5642, non corridor streamlined type. From 27/8/58 until 30/05/62: 1928 corridor type, No 5330 as fitted to FS in the kit, I believe. From 30/05/62 to with withdrawal, streamlined type, No 5651 http://www.sirnigelgresley.org.uk/tenders/tenders1.shtml HTH Edited April 12, 2016 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 (edited) Hi to all, I finally got around to experimenting with the super glue and Bicarbonate of Soda trick that I mentioned hearing about in one of my earlier posts. Got to tell you chaps - this trick is absolute MAGIC that would do Hogwarts proud! Try this one yourself; 1: Squeeze two small puddles of super glue on a bit of scrap or whatever 2: Sprinkle a small amount of Bicarb on one. It sets INSTANTLY and ROCK HARD! The other one can take an hour or more depending on temperature. Now, I realise that super glue sets fast on mating surfaces, like two flat bits of brass, but when you have something thats a tad sloppy, like a bit of .4mm wire that is going into a hole that you had to drill using a .6 drill bit because that was the only one you had, it can be a different story. Fill the hole with super glue, hold the wire in position, sprinkle on the bicarb, done - instantly! Give it a try. The other thing that I have found it works well for is FILLING. Holes, unwanted detail, whatever. You can just build it up in layers if the hole or scratch is deep, with a sprinkle of bicarb on each layer of glue - sets instantly, ready for the next layer. The best part is yet to come - it can be wet sanded with wet and dry paper within minutes, to a fairly smooth finish ready for undercoat/primer and then paint. I have tried over painting with enamel, and auto acrylic with no problems at all, just wash off the bicarb to neutralise the surface. Every so often, one come across one of these tricks that actually works really well, and this is one of them! I have downed tools on Mallard for the moment and am concentrating of putting the final touches on Scotsman, which is making me feel guilty every time I look up from putting another part on Mallard, and see her sitting there unfinished! Have decided that I am going to give her driver the nickname of "Ben Isaacs" - some of you older movie buffs might get the pun...... Cheers, Bushrat Edited April 16, 2016 by bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Every so often, one come across one of these tricks that actually works really well, and this is one of them! Try http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/adhesives/super_glues_and_carded_adhesives/everbuild_mitre_fast_superglue_activator_200ml_P27241.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwxce4BRDE2dG4ueLArHMSJADStCqMcofpPj5OGk37_6UekJxp7ajVV2WMbpSMCyhiryy5_BoC0z_w_wcB ; It does much the same thing. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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