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Dapol "O" gauge Terrier.


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Just received my Early BR sound equipped Terrier.  I set up my Roco DCC kit and had a test run.  The Roco Locmaus has 4 functions, but it was great.  Set up approx. 3 metres of Peco Setrack.   When the throttle is opened up the loco chuffs off until you ease the controller back, It will then coast and as coming to a halt the brakes squeal most realistically.  Functions 2 and 3 are a pip on the whistle and a longer toot.  Function 4 opens the smokebox door and you hear coal being shovelled, the firebox glowing well.

 

Very impressed.  Even Linda took the helm.

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Yay, got one! Went in to the LMS and asked, and he had the BR early crest version, which was the one my head wanted me to buy. My heart was vacillating  between SR green and the KESR blue.The very nice man gave me 10% off the cost; I spent most of that on a yard of track and the new Peco plans book.

 

Ed

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Very pleased with DCC Supplies, two orders of bits (one of extras, and then the second for things I broke taking mine apart- someone had given my assembler extra glue rations!) including a last minute amendment to the second, in the post nice & quick and well packed. Nice easy website to use too.

 

Only thing I'd note is that the photos and descriptions for some of the tank vents are a bit muddled on the website- I ordered 110411, received what is the picture for 110410 (which is what I think 110411 should be, 110410 description is for the vents themselves which are photographed as 110414)! Based on my experience the descriptions and part numbers match but the photos don't. Easily done though.

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Only thing I'd note is that the photos and descriptions for some of the tank vents are a bit muddled on the website- I ordered 110411, received what is the picture for 110410 (which is what I think 110411 should be, 110410 description is for the vents themselves which are photographed as 110414)! Based on my experience the descriptions and part numbers match but the photos don't. Easily done though.

 

Corrected on the website now- very prompt response thanking me for letting them know :)

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I know how that feels Mike. I contacted Dapol twice and joined their collectors club so l could purchase a"Waddon" Terrier. Each time l rang them to find out what the delay was. I was told "sorry clerical error but that's it sorted and order confimed" Still no Waddon or advice as to when it will arrive.  Like you Mike, its spoilt an other wise good experience.

 

Bob.C

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I've run into a problem with my Terrier even before it has arrived. I bought an A1 in LBSCR livery - the Paris Exhibition version. I intended to convert it to an NSWGR N67 class, which would involve destroying the LBSCR livery and painting it black. I'm not so sure that I can bring myself to do it. I don't know if this particular model is sold out or not, but if I can find someone who wants it, I'll happily do a swap for another A1 Terrier (not the A1x).

 

Dammit! My inner preservationist is expressing itself onto an O gauge model!

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I've run into a problem with my Terrier even before it has arrived. I bought an A1 in LBSCR livery - the Paris Exhibition version. I intended to convert it to an NSWGR N67 class, which would involve destroying the LBSCR livery and painting it black. I'm not so sure that I can bring myself to do it. I don't know if this particular model is sold out or not, but if I can find someone who wants it, I'll happily do a swap for another A1 Terrier (not the A1x).

 

Dammit! My inner preservationist is expressing itself onto an O gauge model!

Tower models still show a few Bodiams in blue. Someone will buy your Brighton, they are otherwise sold out.

 

Dava

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Am I the only person who bought blue ones to actually model the K&ESR? Everyone else seems to be planning to do vicious things to them :O.

If/when I can muster up the space for a 7mm layout, it'll have to be something with very short trains, such as a Light Railway.

 

Therefore, I'm leaving mine just as it is but for a bit of detailing/customisation (crew, bare wood effect cab floor and a few more minor tweaks I have yet to think of).

 

It's far too nice to re-paint IMHO.

 

John

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Everyone here seems to have praised the running qualities of this Dapol Terrier, so I went ahead and purchased a BR black one for my test track / experimental 7mm lab and was sadly disappointed. Slow speed running was very poor, current pick up was intermittent, and "running-in" (such as I could manage) seemed to make things worse, not better. Now, I am sure that I was unlucky and I just had a Friday Afternoon lemon, but just in case anyone else has had trouble here is what I did -

 

The design of the motor/chassis etc seems fine, it was the very poor assembly which turned out to be the problem. To rectify this I removed the body from the chassis after taking out the outermost four screws on the underside. The body is quite a tight fit, so you have to very gently ease it off and also remove the glowing fire pcb which is held in with double-sided tape. Mine turned out to have two basic problems - first, the engine was making a strange ticking noise in both directions at low speed. If you have this problem, don't ignore it, it is caused by dry motor bearings and a slightly eccentric flywheel. I lubed the bearings at both ends of the motor using Singer oil and an oiling pin, it's tight in there but you can just do it with care. The second problem was that the wheel pickups (which are springy copper strips) were not tensioned correctly on four of the wheels and were losing contact altogether at times. You can check for this by holding the mech upside down and pushing the wheelsets sideways to make sure that the pickup stays connected with the back of the wheel. I removed the brake gear assembly (which plugs into its sockets and is not glued thank heaven) using a pair of needle-nose pliers with the jaws softened with masking tape. Then you can undo the remaining screws, take off the baseplate and drop the wheelsets out. Very carefully and gently bend the pickups out from the frames until they spring nicely against the backs of the wheels. Then clean the treads, backs of the wheels and pickups with alcohol or similar, reassemble everything and lube all the moving parts with LocoLube synthetic. After all this my little Terrier runs sweetly down to a crawl, as she should!

 

Have a great Christmas!

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20151228_115826.jpg

 

Getting there... a bit of satin black and some transfers before the detail goes back on (steel brakes already on, not worked out how to refit the front sand pipes yet). Quite pleased with how it's coming along- bit different anyway. The camera makes it look much brighter than it is.

 

With apologies to John for ruining a KESR Terrier!

Edited by brianthesnail96
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Filled and sanded- I repainted the smokebox. The lamp irons on the front of the sandboxes came out OK but one the valve doohickeys snapped off at the stem so I filled the holes for them too. They were a pain to sand back though so I wouldn't recommend it! I couldn't get the smokebox off the running plate which didn't help. There seems to be a lot of glue on mine...

 

Edit, losing the condensing pipes leaves a hole in the tank fronts too. I filled these but actually I think they should have bolt on blanking plates. DCC supplies have the blanking plates for the tank top vents but by the looks of things Dapol didn't make a blanking plate for the tank fronts.

Edited by brianthesnail96
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Everyone here seems to have praised the running qualities of this Dapol Terrier, so I went ahead and purchased a BR black one for my test track / experimental 7mm lab and was sadly disappointed. Slow speed running was very poor, current pick up was intermittent, and "running-in" (such as I could manage) seemed to make things worse, not better. Now, I am sure that I was unlucky and I just had a Friday Afternoon lemon, but just in case anyone else has had trouble here is what I did -

 

The design of the motor/chassis etc seems fine, it was the very poor assembly which turned out to be the problem. To rectify this I removed the body from the chassis after taking out the outermost four screws on the underside. The body is quite a tight fit, so you have to very gently ease it off and also remove the glowing fire pcb which is held in with double-sided tape. Mine turned out to have two basic problems - first, the engine was making a strange ticking noise in both directions at low speed. If you have this problem, don't ignore it, it is caused by dry motor bearings and a slightly eccentric flywheel. I lubed the bearings at both ends of the motor using Singer oil and an oiling pin, it's tight in there but you can just do it with care. The second problem was that the wheel pickups (which are springy copper strips) were not tensioned correctly on four of the wheels and were losing contact altogether at times. You can check for this by holding the mech upside down and pushing the wheelsets sideways to make sure that the pickup stays connected with the back of the wheel. I removed the brake gear assembly (which plugs into its sockets and is not glued thank heaven) using a pair of needle-nose pliers with the jaws softened with masking tape. Then you can undo the remaining screws, take off the baseplate and drop the wheelsets out. Very carefully and gently bend the pickups out from the frames until they spring nicely against the backs of the wheels. Then clean the treads, backs of the wheels and pickups with alcohol or similar, reassemble everything and lube all the moving parts with LocoLube synthetic. After all this my little Terrier runs sweetly down to a crawl, as she should!

 

Have a great Christmas!

Hi John,

 

Sorry to hear of your problems - a loose sandbox hampered my running of 32661, when affixed the loco seems fine on DC but is booked in for rectification work for DCC running with DCC Supplies.

 

After 5mins of running up and down with the Terrier, I stopped with a view to having the body off so as to lub the mech etc and I may supply DCC Supplies with just the chassis for the PCB mods.

 

I, for one, am very grateful for your Post as it is sage and useful advice/insights and it is probably best practice to check/lub etc any mass produced RTR model in the same way. My Ixion Fowler is technically run-in, and before fettling n super-detailing I shall 'service' the chassis also.

 

Kind regards and happy New Year to one and all!

 

CME

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I'm currently weathering and detailing my model of 'Bodiam'; with the cab removed you can see there is no bunker door between the rear sandboxes. This may not matter if you can't see it when the model is intact- but you can.

 

So what did the bunker door look like? Unless you have a real one handy, published sources don't give any clues. The only source I've found are dismantled Terriers under overhaul - as here:

http://www.bluebell-railway.co.uk/~uhaa009/bb/vt/72/frames.html

 

Dava

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I'm currently weathering and detailing my model of 'Bodiam'; with the cab removed you can see there is no bunker door between the rear sandboxes. This may not matter if you can't see it when the model is intact- but you can.

 

So what did the bunker door look like? Unless you have a real one handy, published sources don't give any clues. The only source I've found are dismantled Terriers under overhaul - as here:

http://www.bluebell-railway.co.uk/~uhaa009/bb/vt/72/frames.html

 

Dava

Boxhill just has a hole through at floor level. I'll check out my pictures.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/55938574@N03/22877196905/in/album-72157660985737241/

 

This is the door on Stepney at Sheffield Park

 

post-2484-0-82252400-1451769103_thumb.jpg

 

A couple of grab shots from York NRM

 

post-2484-0-99851900-1451769236_thumb.jpg

 

post-2484-0-93077100-1451769248_thumb.jpg

Edited by The Bigbee Line
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