Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge

[N15class]

Yes, very sad news that. Enough to drive you to buying LSWR coaches.

I have some nice SWC ones

[Simond]

And the above, together with the now solved chimney issues, is why the build ground to a halt...

Still wondering whether it's worth correcting all the cylinder and frame issues.

Chris,

 

Frames too close together. Not hugely important except when you look at it end on, (Or if you have aspirations to the S7 brigade!) but probably annoying, however reasonably easy to fix. "L" shaped frame spacers of an appropriate width, which, given the very short wheelbase, and little wheels, and inherent play between 31.5 or 32mm track and G0G FS wheels, would allow pretty tight corners without being very much under scale anyway.

 

Frames 3mm too deep. Again, not hugely difficult to fix. Particularly when you have them apart to get the spacing nearer to something reasonable. Fretsaw & needle files. And hopefully a reliable drawing...

 

Cylinders. Mmm, right diameter should be ok. Correct sidebar centres may be more challenging. I had real difficulties on my POWSides one, with the front crankpins clouting the crossheads. Solution was to have a recessed top-hat nut, because I'd already glued 10BA studs into my wheels. If you could Araldite a brass insert into the wheel & tap it, you could simply countersink the rod & use CSK machine screws as crankpins. I recall I fretted out new cylinder formers and used the wrappers in the kit. I had some difficulties with the motion plate too, so made one of them too. I probably still have the drawings if they would help.

 

I can have a look tomorrow, and check on the max frame width / min radius too if you want.

 

Best

Simon

[2ManySpams]

Chris,

Frames too close together. Not hugely important except when you look at it end on, (Or if you have aspirations to the S7 brigade!) but probably annoying, however reasonably easy to fix. "L" shaped frame spacers of an appropriate width, which, given the very short wheelbase, and little wheels, and inherent play between 31.5 or 32mm track and G0G FS wheels, would allow pretty tight corners without being very much under scale anyway.

Frames 3mm too deep. Again, not hugely difficult to fix. Particularly when you have them apart to get the spacing nearer to something reasonable. Fretsaw & needle files. And hopefully a reliable drawing...

Cylinders. Mmm, right diameter should be ok. Correct sidebar centres may be more challenging. I had real difficulties on my POWSides one, with the front crankpins clouting the crossheads. Solution was to have a recessed top-hat nut, because I'd already glued 10BA studs into my wheels. If you could Araldite a brass insert into the wheel & tap it, you could simply countersink the rod & use CSK machine screws as crankpins. I recall I fretted out new cylinder formers and used the wrappers in the kit. I had some difficulties with the motion plate too, so made one of them too. I probably still have the drawings if they would help.

I can have a look tomorrow, and check on the max frame width / min radius too if you want.

Best

Simon

Frame spacing will stay as is. I just noted it two years ago as it helped highlight the undersized cylinders. Frame depth certainly will get adjusted front and rear. Still pondering about correcting the cylinder size. Looks wrong, so will probably bite the bullet. One to sleep on perhaps (the thought not the loco).

[2ManySpams]

They belong to rhino loving Dutchman.

I think he's mounting a stealth takeover bid of ANtB.

[2ManySpams]

Spams, if you feel this way then it really must be a challenge. Such a disappointment. I wonder what thoughts on this kit the man Mr Wright might produce; he tends to say it as it is. I have heard him 'comment' on quite a few 'stone in shoe' types.

My only comments would be, will it go together and run and then will it look like the real thing? If so, then continue.

If not.............................choose your disposal method matey.

Must be bl##dy annoying as 7mm kits are not inexpensive.

However, from what you have said elsewhere (re where was I on July 30th 1966) you are young and fit and the stress should be manageable.

Phil

I expect Mr Wright would have been appalled if one of his beloved prototypes had received a similar treatment from Agenoria. His bin would have been overflowing!

[Donw]

Sell it? Nope, I shall fight it in the research, I shall fight it on the work bench and the paint shop, I shall never surrender.

 

I had been wondering whether it was going to quietly gather dust in the back of the cupboard. As you say the 3mm narrowing of the frames may be ok. The other two is really a case of if you hadn't checked with the drawing would you have noticed? The trouble is having checked you proabably can see the faults now. How much is it going to niggle? I suspect I could live with it.

Don

[The Stationmaster]

1366 back on the workbench. Now where did I get to?

 

It would probably be rude to remind you ....

 

However I am pleased to learn that you are returning to the fray - now where are the pics I took yesterday of certain pieces of saddle tank which will have some commonality with the pannier version?

[2ManySpams]

Going well...

 

[MikeHemmings]

You have allowed Mrs spams in the train room, ak e dent.

 

 

Mike.

[Siberian Snooper]

Going well...

tmp_23067-rps20160807_193549-1851452544.jpg

Looks nasty

[Indomitable026]

Melt it down and sell it for scrap.

[gwrrob]

Melt it down and sell it for scrap.

 

OMDB.

[2ManySpams]

Been working on the cab. Just about every bit I look at needs altering as it either doesn't fit or doesn't match photos of the real thing. Thankfully I checked a shot of the bunker rear before pressing out the rivets. The kit had them where they weren't, and some missing where they should be.

[The Stationmaster]

Going well...

 

tmp_23067-rps20160807_193549-1851452544.jpg

 

That looks like a very good idea - the rebuild might prove awkward but at least the accuracy to prototype should improve with the amount of research you've done.

[2ManySpams]

Morning all, a question or two to those who do lots of kit modification...

 

The photo below shows that Agenoria has helpfully put in a half etch line on the cab front sheet to help align the tank. Unhelpfully this is about 2mm too high. What's the best way to get rid of it as it's now visible?

 

 

Again helpfully Agenoria has used tabs and slots to locate the cab assembly on the footplate. The only problem is that the footplate slots don't align with the cab tabs and in the visible part of the footplate. What's the best way to fill these?

 

 

Thanks for your opinions.

[2ManySpams]

The latter issue does highlight that either the tank and cab are too narrow or the footplate is too wide. If the drawings that come with the kit ate correct then it's the cab and tank that are about 2mm too narrow. Not something I can fix at this point.

[Adrian]

Morning all, a question or two to those who do lots of kit modification...

 

The photo below shows that Agenoria has helpfully put in a half etch line on the cab front sheet to help align the tank. Unhelpfully this is about 2mm too high. What's the best way to get rid of it as it's now visible?

 

tmp_2370-rps20160813_101716270893567.jpg

 

Again helpfully Agenoria has used tabs and slots to locate the cab assembly on the footplate. The only problem is that the slots are in the wrong place and in the visible part of the footplate. What's the best way to fill these?

 

tmp_2370-rps20160813_101716270893567.jpg

 

Thanks for your opinions.

 

 

For the cab plate it's quite difficult - often there is some angled beading around the tank and cab plate will this not hide the half etch line? If not then personally I would just use the cab plate as a template and just cut a new one out of nickel-silver. 

 

As for the slots in the footplate use a scrap bit of etch and fit in from underneath, solder in and then file flat.

[Guest Isambarduk]

I agree with Adrian. 

 

In many cases, although it might be satisfying to correct an incorrect etch or casting, it's often easier, results in a better component and is just as satisfying to make anew.  I speak from experience :-) 

 

When I have really wanted to use an etch supplied in a kit (I have leant better of it now), I cut up the etch and splice it together again with new pieces, as required; it's not easy to disguise the joins convincingly so usually I have not troubled - you'd have to know the prototype very well to know that there was not really a join there.  

 

David

[Donw]

Could you not tin over the etch line and then using a Garryflex block carefully rub back until it just shows as a line of solder. Mind you those suggesting making a replacement part may be right and that would be the easiest course. I do wish I had held on to my Moleskin just the thing for tinning jobs.

Don

[Adrian]

Could you not tin over the etch line and then using a Garryflex block carefully rub back until it just shows as a line of solder. Mind you those suggesting making a replacement part may be right and that would be the easiest course. I do wish I had held on to my Moleskin just the thing for tinning jobs.

Don

 

 

I've tried it a couple of times but it never worked that well. With the solder being softer than the n/s it's very difficult to get a completely flat finish, also when soldering on any subsequent details you have to be very very careful not to get the soldering iron anywhere near the filled etch because all that hard work can disappear in an instant. Been there got the T-shirt!! Which is why I would make a replacement part -it might seem a bit of an effort but in the long run it's worth it.

[2ManySpams]

Whilst I'm contemplating the cab front sheet I thought I'd have a go at cleaning up the big boiler fittings (Rob's chimney and the dome and bonnet). These are now fixed.

 

 

The plan is now to finish adding weight to the tanks, fix the tank sub assembly to the footplate and then fill all the gaps before moving on to the cab.

[Donw]

I've tried it a couple of times but it never worked that well. With the solder being softer than the n/s it's very difficult to get a completely flat finish, also when soldering on any subsequent details you have to be very very careful not to get the soldering iron anywhere near the filled etch because all that hard work can disappear in an instant. Been there got the T-shirt!! Which is why I would make a replacement part -it might seem a bit of an effort but in the long run it's worth it.

Very true. I would either be advisable to use a higher melt solder (silver solder?) or do it when every thing else has been soldered on. Actually rather than a garryflex a piece of wet and dry stuck to a piece of wood should give a flat finish. As you say the replacement is likely to be a better bet.

Don

[N15class]

As above its easier to make new using the original as template. Although I have used car body filler in the past. But that is only good when in a place easy to sand after completion.

[2ManySpams]

Tanks have been weighted, I'm aiming for the completed loco to be just under 1kg. Tank sub-assembly now fixed to the footplate. Some parts refixed to close up gaps.

 

 

Balancing pipe between the panniers has been bent up from some copper wire. The cast brass version in the kit was the wrong shape and wasn't going to be easily bent to shape.

 

I was going to fit the rear tank supports. The cast ones in the kit are miles to short (even after the tank has been lowered to the correct level). I was going to pack them out but, having looked at photos, I think they are also the wrong shape and too bulky. So that's some more parts to make... oh, and the provided toolboxes don't look like those on the loco... and the front sand boxes are too tall and not square enough.

 

 

Going to have lots of parts left over after this is eventually finished. Very poor value for money indeed.

[gwrrob]

Put the unused/poor castings in the post back to Agenoria.Not fit for purpose.