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The Mill


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I don't envy you doing all those windows! Casting in resin might be an option, but that's still quite time consuming. I guess with something like a NWSL Chopper at least you know you're cutting all the strip to same length and squarely.

 

I quite like the look of those Sentinel kits myself, not sure what use I'd have for one though.

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Apparently, according with the info which comes with the instructions, some lasted in service into the early 80's. So, Foundry Lane could become exchange sidings? Not sure 100bhp would be enough to haul bolsters and TTA's up the bank on BCB.

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I picked this up at Warley but completely forgot about it until a post in Mike's Dent thread reminded me. Future motive power:

 

Sentinelkit001_zps8438cfe7.jpg

 

Sentinelkit002_zpsb3c9e953.jpg

Ah! I have been useful at last!

 

Regarding the windows have you thought about 'SMS' I think its called, they do resin type buildings and building parts, I can find out if interested.

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Good evening......

 

Painting is not my thing & it makes me quite nervous but with the house empty & today being my day off I've set up & got stuck in with the chassis components for the Neilson, well priming then anyway.

 

As promised a pic of the pick-up arrangement, wheels, brake gear & cylinders off & ready for paint.

 

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post-19016-0-32200000-1420824941_thumb.jpg

 

My homemade spray booth made from a box file, as seen in my workbench tread has undergone an upgrade with the addition of a home made extraction unit.

 

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The 'upgrade' is made/cobbled together using a rectangular plastic funnel/hopper with its spout cut off to allow a 4" diameter dryer vent hose to pass through tightly. Then I've removed the fan, also 4" in diameter from an old disused computer & attached it to the end of the hose by removing the metal grill on the fan & pushing that inside the end of the hose then screwing it back on clamping the two together. Using gaffer tape the fan is held tight to the inside of the funnel & creating a seal. The funnel is mounted in the back of the box file by cutting a rectangular hole so it is a tight fit from the inside. The fan is 12v so power comes from the little controller on my bench. I may get some filter material & install it somehow, my guess is it may just be the same stuff used in cooker hoods?......

 

post-19016-0-31896900-1420826790_thumb.jpg

 

May get chance to do the top coat, black, later.

 

All that info probably belongs elsewhere but as the loco is for 't'mill' it's on here.

 

Cheers for now.

Edited by Chris-GNR
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Chris, you know those fragrant dryer sheets. A few used ones taped across the front of that fan should do the trick!

Nice spray booth assembly job. I like the wire hanger arrangement too.

Loco is coming along very well.

 

Regards Shaun

Edited by Sasquatch
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Have you ever started something and then immediately wished you hadn't?

 

This weekend's task (and probably ongoing for a few more) has been on the windows for the main building. thanks for all the advice re: using ready made ones but for some reason, I like using Microstrip and that it what I have started doing with this building.

Which leads me onto the opening sentence. I started to build up the windows to be six panels, examples of which abound in reality (loads of mills with that window pattern in Bingley) but out of curiosity, I built one with 12 smaller panels and it looked much nicer.

All well and good so far but there are 110 windows and this is six additional bits of Microstrip per window. And once they are all added, I plan to paint them all with a 000 brush.

 

So far, all the outer frames have been added (015 x 030") and the inner frames (010 x 020") are in progress in the windows in the below shot.

 

TheMillMovesForward001_zps4e355d7d.jpg

 

 

I got sick of windows yesterday so built another Parkside kit, this one being a 5 plank RCH open. The one next to it and blurred is a Cambrian LMS 5 plank that I at least managed to get the chassis square on (they are a bloody nightmare).

 

TheMillMovesForward003_zps77f44a28.jpg

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Hi Mate, that's an excellent job on the windows, they look just right and as you say much better as a 12 pain even though there a PAIN to do.

 

Wagons look good mate, are they some of the ones that Jeff will be making soon, or are they an exclusive type for the Mill?

Edited by Andrew P
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I don't know if I'll subject him to a Cambrian kit just yet as they are a pain compared to Parkside ones, although he (and you, and all of us modelling the late 50's and early 60's) need a ton of 5 plank opens; it's just a shame that the RTR boys don't realise that (or care because they aren't glamorous?).

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I don't know if I'll subject him to a Cambrian kit just yet as they are a pain compared to Parkside ones, although he (and you, and all of us modelling the late 50's and early 60's) need a ton of 5 plank opens; it's just a shame that the RTR boys don't realise that (or care because they aren't glamorous?).

I agree, I have about 8 opens, and I grab one any time I see one at a show as there like gold dust. 

 

I'll have to have a look at some kits soon now that all the points are built, I need another project, haha ha.

Edited by Andrew P
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I don't know if I'll subject him to a Cambrian kit just yet as they are a pain compared to Parkside ones, although he (and you, and all of us modelling the late 50's and early 60's) need a ton of 5 plank opens; it's just a shame that the RTR boys don't realise that (or care because they aren't glamorous?).

I have to agree with you and Andy. I'm going to need 20 - 30

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Great work on those windows it's an acquired taste for doing windows in styrene lol

Just wondering what glue your using for the styrene and windows ?

 

Also great work on those wagons

 

Looking forward to the progress of mill and wagons

 

Brian

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Hi mate. I use thin cyano glue to stick both the glazing to the card (which the building formers are made of) and the microstrip to the glazing. You get a few seconds to adjust the strips before it sets, which is usually enough.

 

For the station canopy (for Bacup), I used MEK and it was a nightmare with it spearing and the strips not glueing to the glazing properly. You do get a bit of frosting with Cyano but you can remove the worst of it with a cotton bud and cocktail stick and for anything left, it is a mill so the windows would be in an awful state anyway.

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Thanks Mate

I started with mek and moved to humbro clear fix due to the frosting but that stuffs takes a while to set and it's quite thick and gloopy so thanks I'll try the cyano

 

Got to say those frames look very neat and true well done .

do you mark where the individual bits of frames go or is it just judged by eye ,either way very nice

 

Brian

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I used to but now I do them by eye (which is why a couple of the horizontals are a bit out).

 

Chris and I had another session on the layout this evening, removing the area where the FY cassette goes and then building a cassette and pivoting it.nunfortunately, the bit of wood put aside was warped but that didn't stop us pinning a length of SMP to it, wiring it up and playing trains for an hour (with the mill propped up along the back). With a maximum train length of three wagons, it is surprising how many moves are required to shunt everything around, and how satisfying.

 

We worked out that given the length of the layout, at an exhibition, even three spectators will seem like a crowd :)

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Off to work in a minute but here is a last update shot from the weekend, showing 'testing' being performed with Chris's N5 (which along with the C12, will never be used on the layout at exhibitions). It also shows how far I got with the windows and the difference between the 6 and 12 pane ones.

 

TheMillMovesForward005_zpsf84b5595.jpg

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All those windows, and not one of them open.....

 

Excellent work, Jason, very impressed at the consistency and in keeping your sanity !

 

Will you be adding all the looms inside ?

Edited by Stubby47
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That's why he doesn't mind the windows frosting!  The 12 pane windows look right to me. I used thin strips cut from self adhesive labels for 0 gauge ones bit difficult to cut strips thin enough for those windows. Excellent work.

Don

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Morning Jason,

Hope your commute wasn't too stressful today!

I agree with Andy and the others on the window panes, the shot in post #219 shows the improvement to great effect. If I ever get as far as the engine shed on my intended MPD, I'll need 12 windows at each end, different sizes and curved tops and the top panes have curved frames. Would it be possible to bend the micros trip before sticking?

Thanks for the tip on the use of Cyano. Thanks also for reminding us all what it's all about - playing (sorry - testing?) trains!

Kind regards,

Jock.

Edited by Jock67B
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Off to work in a minute but here is a last update shot from the weekend, showing 'testing' being performed with Chris's N5 (which along with the C12, will never be used on the layout at exhibitions). It also shows how far I got with the windows and the difference between the 6 and 12 pane ones.

 

TheMillMovesForward005_zpsf84b5595.jpg

 

Those 12 pane windows look far more realistic.  They give the whole building a more substantial look, as if it was not imposing enough in the first place.

Well worth the effort :declare:

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