sir douglas Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 What i would really like to build is the Bass brewery Baguley, that is a little beauty, but i dont have the wheelsets for it and i cant buy any at the moment https://farm9.static.flickr.com/8859/28138881721_726c0c2a47_b.jpg 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 http://www.ets-trains.com/en/driving-units/driving-unit-axles-distance-40-mm.html There are other power units too..... Just a thought?......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 itll be cheaper to get wheels from slaters and put them on the planet chassis but i dont have the money at the moment Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 What i would really like to build is the Bass brewery Baguley, that is a little beauty, but i dont have the wheelsets for it and i cant buy any at the moment https://farm9.static.flickr.com/8859/28138881721_726c0c2a47_b.jpg How will you simulate the louvres on the bonnet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 ive only said i would like to build it as the replacement for the planet for the back dating but only after getting a 30's tractor for the louvre, i dont know yet Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brack Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 Archer transfers, whose rivets are excellent, also do Louvre transfers. I haven't yet tried them, but they might be easier than trying to sand bits of microstrip triangular and glue them on straight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
844fan Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) ive only said i would like to build it as the replacement for the planet for the back dating but only after getting a 30's tractor for the louvre, i dont know yet I am quite sure you'd figure it out. The little engines are both now on my want list! But I fully understand the money situation while mine is a slight bit better for the time being I can't spend like a madman either. Edit: Hold on a tick that engine is a diesel but she's got a whistle not a horn! Could this be the elusive example of a Compressed Air Whistle on a diesel?! If so I'd love this little engine even more than I already do! Edited August 16, 2017 by 844fan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 Could this be the elusive example of a Compressed Air Whistle on a diesel?! Not so elusive, really. GWR No. 1, the Fowler 0-4-0DM (as depicted RTR by Ixion Model Railways), had a whistle. It's not easy to see in this version of the image: but the version in Russell's book (A Pictorial Record of Great Western Engines, Volume 2, page 183) is rather clearer. I made quite a number of modifications to my model, including replacing the horn with a whistle: See www.davidlosmith.co.uk/GWR_Fowler.htm David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 but if im going to spend money on new wheelsets i'd rather buy them for the Knowles petrol i mentioned in post 424 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/91456-sirdouglas-o-gauge/?p=2735011 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) Archer transfers, whose rivets are excellent, also do Louvre transfers. I haven't yet tried them, but they might be easier than trying to sand bits of microstrip triangular and glue them on straight. Better still; make proper louvres like the real thing. I scratchbuilt a 44/48HP Ruston from plasticard, about 15 years ago. I filed a piece of scrap brass to a wedge shape and pushed it into and through thin plasticard that I had marked out. The thin plasticard was then used as an overlay. Edited August 16, 2017 by Ruston Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) Better still; make proper louvres like the real thing. Just so! I did the same thing, but in brass, whilst building my Fowler 0-4-0DM LMS No. 2, making use of some of the parts from the Underhill kit - long before Ixion Model Railways came out with their fine RTR offering. Here is a louvred panel and in place: Captioned pictures of 'how I did it' at: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/LMS_Fowler.htm#MakingLouvres David Hijack mode = off Sorry :-( Edited August 16, 2017 by Isambarduk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 back when i made a narrow gauge fowler i did the louvres with trapezoids of thin styrene with the ends bent glued on over trapezoidal cutouts on the bonnet side, if im going to do it again, i'll not do the cutouts and use thin brass strip instead of styrene 372 by Sam, on Flickr 379 by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Ever since i first made the pick ups for Thunderchild, theyve been constantly playing up because they dont stay sprung against the wheels shown here back in March Thunderchild (79) by Sam, on Flickr using what look like pickups from a Hornby 0-4-0, the old ones were taken off and the new ones soldered on in place, the length of them is a perfect fit. it runs a lot better now but the trailing wheels are still playing up jumping about at random even after taking the spring off and fettling it, it now jumps off every time again but at different places this time thunderchild (130) by Sam, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 after trying a different spring that way too soft i instead tried it with some lead glued on and without a spring as suggested to me way back by 5050, it runs very well now, it ran back and forth through the points at speed about 20 times in a row and facing in both directions, with only about 1 or 2 derailments in all, it runs much better slowly because of the new pick ups and the trailings wheels are are a lot less likely to derail at slow speed, but i now have the slight problem of nodding, its not enough to effect the running quality enough to be priority but now with out the support of that spring under the rear overhang the body nods a tiny but because of the weight of the whitemetal figures in the cab Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hesperus Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 If the only differences you are planning between a 30s and a 50s layout are stock and road vehicles then could you model both? You have built a great set of stock to operate with already, a lot of it would work for 50's era as well so with a few extra bits you could model 2 eras which would add interest at exhibitions. When you change over you could swap the tractor and any figures that stood out as being wrong. If it worked well you could try a 1910s era with pre grouping stock and a horse. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 (edited) I found out the other day that theres a 7mm drawing of a manning wardle D class in Railway modeller, December 1975, ive got a scan of it from our bound back issues from the club library and thanks for Jamie doing the scan for me Edited August 27, 2017 by sir douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 And also very kindly been given a scan of Manning Wardle E class side on engraving by 5050 from a IRS booklet he bought recently Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 since ive got Thunderchild running better with phospher strip pickups, i thought i would replace the brass wire pickups on J Aspdin and Halfmoon as well J Aspdin, while i had the loco on the workbench it was best to also get started on the retaining screw to hold the chassis and body together that i never got around to doing, the old screw hole in the underside of the smokebox is a bit too far forward so a new styrene block had to be glued in which meant cutting out the back of the smokebox to get in, this cutout will never be seen as it is hidden by the boiler and gearbox, a new frame stretcher n the chassis is currently being glued in which the screw will pass through, it sits in a very tight place with just a little gap either side between the gearbox and the split pin of the front coupling hook j aspdin (91) by Sam, on Flickr Halfmoon, a slight problem i noticed recently was that the buffers and the bottom of the bufferbeams were a bit low so some packing has been added onto the top of the inner chassis halfmoon (134) by Sam, on Flickr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 the screw fixing in the smokebox j aspdin (93) by Sam, on Flickr the new stretcher inbetween the gearbox and spring j aspdin (92) by Sam, on Flickr unfortunately while drilling the hole in the stretcher, the drill head rubbed agaisnt the gear and ruined some teeth and i dont have another gear the same size so the gearbox will have to be rebuilt getting back to the second dumb buffer wagon from post 412 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/91456-sirdouglas-o-gauge/?p=2694252 After putting it together, there wasnt enough room on the solebar for the ironwork but i wasnt up to fixing it until now, thw wheels were taken off and more chassis timber was added wagon 4 (4) by Sam, on Flickr wagon 4 (5) by Sam, on Flickr 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 An injured interloper I'm taking temporary custody of Jamie's locos one at a time to repair and fettle, I'm starting with the one that needs the most doing which is No 1008 compound Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hesperus Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Post up the size of the gear you have ruined, I'll have a dig through the box and see if I've got owt. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 10, 2017 Author Share Posted September 10, 2017 i havent been doing any of my own modelling since then because ive been working on Jamie's compound. to photograph the gear means taking the rods off and the one of the wheels to take the axle off and then taking the gearbox apart to get the gear out and i cant bothered with that at the moment, but i can just about get to it with the calipers, the over teeth dia' is 17.9 but there will be bit of wear so 18mm. ive got a little box full of gears but they're either a little bit big or a bit smaller. thanks for the offer Hesperus, any you find might have different size teeth and not mesh but we'll give it a go 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 (edited) compound (12) by Sam, on Flickr lately ive not been liking Rebecca's brown anymore but i do like Midland green https://ebid.s3.amazonaws.com/upload_big/9/0/1/1423436650-31937-13.jpg it looks quite a different green to what ive chosen as i went with the shade in a little book ive got Rebecca (139) by Sam, on Flickr all the body, the cylinders and steps are done, just need to take off the motion to do the wheels. comparing them now, my choice looks a bit darker than in the book but ive done it now and quite like it Rebecca (138) by Sam, on Flickr Edited September 16, 2017 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 In myopinion, the only "brown" which looks reasonablye good on locomotives is the LBSCR "Marsh Umber" livery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 this one? http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/LBSCR_B4_loco_files/RIMG0393.jpg the wheels are now painted and left to dry. I couldnt take off the rods because the crank pin nuts wouldnt come off, when i assembled them a small drop of super glue was put onto the thread to stop them coming off on their own but now when trying to take them off the crankpin bolt just spins in its hole and i cant get a screwdriver to the head behind, so it was quicker and easier to take the wheels off instead Rebecca (140) by Sam, on Flickr 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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