RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 My what a bunch of happy spring bunnies we are now and how refreshingly positive . Great stuff ! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearwater Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Are you telling me that the door dart doesn't actually operate? Cuh. What good are opening cab doors for the fireman to exit the cab if he can't clean the smokebox at the day's end? As it's held by two small magnets surely a very small flat-ended screwdriver would prize it off? I would anticipate that it would 'pop' off quite easily? Just my two cents - let us know how you get on! CoY Agreed - pretty poor the door dart doesn't work. Completely compromises the model's fidelity. Amazed the magazines haven't led their reviews on it. #smokeboxdoordartgate I'd tried a small screwdriver but it didn't 'pop' as I'd also expected. Hence the question David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 7007GreatWestern Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi Clearwater, I use a very small watchmaker's screwdriver, inserting the tip of the blade behind the (cosmetic) smokebox door hinges. Pull gently and that should unseat the door, though it will still be held against the front of the smokebox by the magnets.You can then get the blade in a second time to remove the door completely. After that I use fine tweezers to pull out the circuit board to fit the decoder. Cheers, Andy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi Keith, I would respectfully point out that in real life, a 48xx wouldn't be expected to haul 4 or more coaches up a 1 in 50. There'd be a pannier on the job at least, either that, or a 56xx or prairie. Ian May I also respectfully point out that I posted the official GWR figures from 1936 showing the maximum loads these locos could take up a gradient: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92852-hattons-announce-14xx-48xx-58xx/page-61&do=findComment&comment=2632243 This equates to 4 coaches up 1:60 and 3 coaches up 1:50 (BTW a B set coach is under 29T) Cheers Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 Has no one yet made any kind of attempt to remove the numberplates? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Has no one yet made any kind of attempt to remove the numberplates? Seems that their is no need to - a replacement fits over the top judging by posts in this thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 Here's the 1450 on my "layout" Lovely model, the brass plates are just off flush, on the body side and being etched fit better than any other model of such type. You can overlay on top, but it would be a shame. Where do I start., Lovely shade of green, sprung loaded footplate gates, etched plates, separate smokebox number plate, excellent detail inc auto train gear, and option to add covers on the draw bars. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 May I also respectfully point out that I posted the official GWR figures from 1936 showing the maximum loads these locos could take up a gradient: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92852-hattons-announce-14xx-48xx-58xx/page-61&do=findComment&comment=2632243 This equates to 4 coaches up 1:60 and 3 coaches up 1:50 (BTW a B set coach is under 29T) Cheers Keith Hi Keith, Indeed you did! Did 48xx's work on 1/50 gradients with 4 coaches? I don't for a minute discount your findings, but I've never seen evidence to suggest it. Every photo I've seen of a 3 car service, has either a 54, 64, or a prairie. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 On my bookshelf I have a pictorial album by Eric Treacy entitled "Steam Up" with a selection of his work from the late 193o's through to about 1950. He has a pairing of photos entitled "Dignity and Impudence" contrasting large powerful locomotives with small types. I took the opportunity this afternoon of giving my MN "Royal Mail" its first outing and to ease it into "service".What a majestic,powerful beast it is,cruising along with its load of Maunsells.To complement it on the adjoining track with its autocoach,I chose one of my little 14XX tanks.....GWR 4825....my nod to a great railway lover. Well..I enjoyed it anyway. I reflect on how well blessed we are at present. Both models acquitted themselves nobly without a shred of bad manners or irritability. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danemouth Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 I may well have missed it in this thread but has anybody bought the sound version please? If so: What sound chip is used, and Does it produce a reasonable sound? I am debating acquiring one but it's a hell of a lot of wine tokens and I would hate to get things wrong! Many thanks, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guardian Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) Hi everybody, is anybody out there having trouble with poor running capabilities? When operated analoguely, my model is running inconstantly (stuttering), in particular backwards. This "misbehaviour" is even more intense when running digitally (DCC, ESU, Lokpilot v4 Micro DCC). I have lubricated the model accordingly, had it running in for hours, tried every reasonable CV configuration. At very low speed, it digitally runs very smooth as this is being controlled directly by CVs 51 and 52. The same or similar values in CVs 54 and 55 lead to a stuttering walk. Operating the Decoder on 20 kHz frequency did not effect any improvement. May my model simply be mechanically faulty? Is required to unsolder any capacitor (I did not find any)? How can the engine, worm and gear be accessed (as this is not included in the description). I used the following CVs: 2=2 3=55 4=16 51=9 52=6 53=75 54=30 55=22 Any other CV default or irrelevant for engine Operation Any idea? Thank you. Regards Mark Edited March 19, 2017 by Guardian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Decorum Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Here's the 1450 on my "layout" Lovely model, the brass plates are just off flush, on the body side and being etched fit better than any other model of such type. You can overlay on top, but it would be a shame. Where do I start., Lovely shade of green, sprung loaded footplate gates, etched plates, separate smokebox number plate, excellent detail inc auto train gear, and option to add covers on the draw bars. Grumpy Git here, ignoring 1450 and admiring what’s on the same track in the second picture. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 Grumpy Git here, ignoring 1450 and admiring what’s on the same track in the second picture. That would be the new ready to run s160.. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80959-roco-2014-catalogue-s160-in-h0/?p=2657044 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 The more I look at the 14xx the more I spot other subtle things... Notice the footsteps moulded onto the tops of the buffers... post-20773-0-18625500-1489934457.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 7007GreatWestern Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi everybody, is anybody out there having trouble with poor running capabilities? When operated analoguely, my model is running inconstantly (stuttering), in particular backwards. This "misbehaviour" is even more intense when running digitally (DCC, ESU, Lokpilot v4 Micro DCC). I have lubricated the model accordingly, had it running in for hours, tried every reasonable CV configuration. At very low speed, it digitally runs very smooth as this is being controlled directly by CVs 51 and 52. The same or similar values in CVs 54 and 55 lead to a stuttering walk. Operating the Decoder on 20 kHz frequency did not effect any improvement. May my model simply be mechanically faulty? Is required to unsolder any capacitor (I did not find any)? How can the engine, worm and gear be accessed (as this is not included in the description). I used the following CVs: 2=2 3=55 4=16 51=9 52=6 53=75 54=30 55=22 Any other CV default or irrelevant for engine Operation Any idea? Thank you. Regards Mark Hi Mark, I have no working knowledge of ESU decoders, I standardised on Zimo and Lenz. However, I've dowloaded a manual for the LokPilot V4 family and had a look. On Page 46 there is a Table (Figure 25) giving sets of recommended values of CVs 51-56 for a range of common motor types. (CVs 51-56 are to do with Load Regulation). The set of values you have used don't correspond with any of the sets recommended in the Table. Maybe worth giving some of them a try? I now have two Hattons/DJM 14xxs both fitted with Zimo MX622s. I found that using appropriate vales for a coreless motor as recommended in the Zimo manual gave a very significant improvement in running. Cheers, Andy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 7007GreatWestern Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi everybody, Is required to unsolder any capacitor (I did not find any)? How can the engine, worm and gear be accessed (as this is not included in the description). Mark Hi again Mark. No, you should not need to unsolder any capacitors. I strongly suggest you read post 1686 on this thread from Hatton's Model Railways which deals with the eventually of poor running. If you start tinkering with the engine, worm and gears you risk your warranty! Kind Regards, Andy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guardian Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) Hi Andy, of course I tried values higher than the ones stated. These lead to the comparatively best results. Any value in CV 54 above 35/40 and CV 55 above 40 effects a heavily stuttering engine instead of a slightly stuttering one (the default values of the ESU LoPi v4 decoders are CV 54=48 and CV 55=64 and do not work properly at all). CV 53 is the equivalent of Zimo's CV 57 and just reduces the voltage. The ESU LoPi 4 are my decoders for difficult cases, and as yet, I have "caught" any reluctant model by using them. Unfortunately, I do not have a matching Zimo MX622 at Hand, that may work better in case ot the DJM class 48XX. Generally, I made the experience that Zimo and ESU decoders provide for similar adjustment options with regard to the operation of engines. I agree that the DCC operation significantly improves the running of the engine, in particular at minimum and slow speed compared to analogue mode (operated analoguely, my model starts running rather abruptly at approx. 15 mph and stops that abruptly again). Regards Mark Edited March 19, 2017 by Guardian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 Seems that their is no need to - a replacement fits over the top judging by posts in this thread. Well, I have seen those references, but I've also heard that the sunken plates stand just a tad proud of the bodywork. I have obtained replacement plates for mine now, thanks to the excellent service from Brian at 247 Developments, but the thought of even a tiny, tiny gap between the new plate and the bodywork doesn't sit comfortably with me. I haven't got the new plates out of their packet yet, though, so I'll reserve final judgement until I see what it looks like up close. I do hope that the recommended running in does what it says on the tin. I did get mine out and gave it a couple of passes up and down on the set of points I was testing. Whereas some locos run beautifully smoothly straight out of the box (eg. the Hornby Peckett), others do not, and of those that do not, some will improve with running in, and some will not. I've had experience of all types, and I think it's possible to develop a 'nose' for which locos will improve and which ones won't. Some of the etched chassis I've built over the years have been for Bachmann steam locos that just won't improve with running in. This DJM/Hattons model is 'something new' for me in that regard, so I'll have to set my circle of set track up in the week, apply the recommended lubrication and get it running in. Otherwise, the bodywork is just gorgeous. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) I am sorry to say the one I've got doesn't run well on my layout, very picky over smoothness of track and poor pick up. In fairness, that is a lot due to my track laying but other models cope much much better. A shame. Edited March 19, 2017 by The Great Bear Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi Keith, Indeed you did! Did 48xx's work on 1/50 gradients with 4 coaches? I don't for a minute discount your findings, but I've never seen evidence to suggest it. Every photo I've seen of a 3 car service, has either a 54, 64, or a prairie. Ian 1 in 60 definitely on the Mid Wales line. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 The more I look at the 14xx the more I spot other subtle things... Notice the footsteps moulded onto the tops of the buffers... post-20773-0-18625500-1489934457.jpg Don't want to rain on your parade, but my Airfix one had these. They were replacement whitemetal ones, Springside I think, but it 'ad 'em. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 I may well have missed it in this thread but has anybody bought the sound version please? If so: What sound chip is used, and Does it produce a reasonable sound? I am debating acquiring one but it's a hell of a lot of wine tokens and I would hate to get things wrong! Many thanks, Dave Hi Dave, This is the installation Guide on the Youchoos web site. http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Resource.php?L1=Guides&Item=DJM14XX And this is the function list, order option and the ability to listen to the sound file. http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Shop.php?L1=Project&Item=GWR14XX No connection but happy customer of sound for pannier, S15 and A3. Luke Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted March 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2017 (edited) Don't want to rain on your parade, but my Airfix one had these. They were replacement whitemetal ones, Springside I think, but it 'ad 'em.That's cheating, It's not factory rtr! On that basis even Polly /Nellie could qualify ! Edited March 20, 2017 by adb968008 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdh1950 Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hi Dave, This is the installation Guide on the Youchoos web site. http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Resource.php?L1=Guides&Item=DJM14XX And this is the function list, order option and the ability to listen to the sound file. http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Shop.php?L1=Project&Item=GWR14XX No connection but happy customer of sound for pannier, S15 and A3. Luke It must be possible to fit a sound decoder without hard-wiring surely? Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted March 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2017 That's cheating, It's not factory rtr! On that basis even Polly /Nellie could qualify ! I do like that. It brings all of the axle centre lines into their approximate positions, and the ashpan/firebox sits between the centre & trailing axles. I must get me one of those Electro thingys. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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