Hattons announce 14xx / 48xx / 58xx

[DAVE1562]

Yes as said above,it is a brass band.I painted mine over with precision gwr paint,and it looks much better,and yes like you i broke my whistle too 

          while disassembling it,The other good thing about the cab removal is that you can fill those unwanted holes in,that are in the front on it.

Yes them holes.. the pic of hilux5972 post shows a whistle guard fitted why not the hattons 1420... should or could this have been fitted or at least included in the detail bag? 

 

 

can see a whistleguard.....?

Edited March 28, 2017 by DAVE1562

[The Great Bear]

I am sorry to say the one I've got doesn't run well on my layout, very picky over smoothness of track and poor pick up. In fairness, that is a lot due to my track laying but other models cope much much better. A shame.

Fair play to Hattons. I returned it and asked for a refund, as a replacement I was convinced would fare no better - this model unfortunately was never going to get along with my layout/track. Money refunded no questions asked. Thank you, Hattons.

[GWR Chris]

I am very pleased with mine.

 

Digitrax DZ126IN after rediscovering the Digitrax on-line manual and setting CV 57 to 5, CV 55 to 100 and CV 56 to 30.  I'm sure I can do better with some more trial and error, but it's now running sweetly and, of course, it looks the bees knees.   I hope this is helpful to others.

 

I should say that for a while I thought I'd got a dog, then I thought I'd better try it on DC (PP3 and two light bulbs in series!!) and it seemed to run smoothly.  Never had this problem with Digitrax decoders on Hornby or Bachmann, so it would be nice if Hattons added a note about decoder settings, as suggested in an earlier post.

 

I am an average modeller, who likes to add detail to make my models believeable; I'm very pleased with mine for less than £100 (especially as it's a present from her outdoors!)

 

Chris

Edited March 30, 2017 by GWR Chris

[melmerby]

 

 I'm very pleased with mine for less than £100 (especially as it's a present from her outdoors!)

 

Chris

But does she know?

 

Keith

[melmerby]

SWMBO and I have an arrangement about birthday presents:

We don't buy each other any but if we see something we want/need we buy it ourselves (From each other).

 

When SWMBO sees a loco she thinks is new I only have to say "It's the one you (I) bought me for my birthday - it's very nice, thank you"

Fortunately she can't spot the subtle differences between different locos so doesn't notice whether it is yet another new one or not!

 

Keith

Edited April 1, 2017 by melmerby

[Captain Kernow]

Still no evidence of anyone having had a go at removing the inset numberplates, then?

[Tim Hall]

SWMBO and I have an arrangement about birthday presents:

We don't buy each other any but if we see something we want/need we buy it ourselves (From each other).

 

When SWMBO sees a loco she thinks is new I only have to say "It's the one you (I) bought me for my birthday - it's very nice, thank you"

Fortunately she can't spot the subtle differences between different locos so doesn't notice whether it is yet another new one or not!

 

Keith

A similar arrangement happens here, Mrs H never gets round to getting me anything, then panics a couple of days before my birthday/ 25th Dec. I then cunningly produce a suitable, recently arrived, red or blue box, which she gratefully pays for Think the 4TC, due nearish to my birthday, might be a stretch too far though

[Ian Hargrave]

Welcome to this week's instalment of True Confessions......

Edited April 1, 2017 by Ian Hargrave

[Rising Standards]

I am very pleased with mine.

 

Digitrax DZ126IN after rediscovering the Digitrax on-line manual and setting CV 57 to 5, CV 55 to 100 and CV 56 to 30. I'm sure I can do better with some more trial and error, but it's now running sweetly and, of course, it looks the bees knees. I hope this is helpful to others.

 

I should say that for a while I thought I'd got a dog, then I thought I'd better try it on DC (PP3 and two light bulbs in series!!) and it seemed to run smoothly.

Thanks Chris. I got one of these decoders for my 1400 a few months ahead of the loco's release, and have only got as far as plugging it in, but the combination of loco and decoder seemed very unhappy when I tested it. I haven't got around to fettling the CVs yet, but from previous discussions about suitable decoders in this thread I'd assumed that I was going to be looking at reusing the DZ126 elsewhere and replacing it with a Lenz or Zimo. You've given me hope, so perhaps I'll have a go tomorrow.

[coachmann]

Still no evidence of anyone having had a go at removing the inset numberplates, then?

Dammit, I ordered plates today for a number of locos and overlooked the 14XX.

[GWR Chris]

On my 48XX I didn't need to remove the whistles to get in the cab.  Unfortunately the cab was a bit stuck in place so I thought I did need to remove them; now they are going to need glueing or replacing.

 

Hope that's helpful.

[davegreenly]

Still no evidence of anyone having had a go at removing the inset numberplates, then?

I've put new number plates on top of the Hatton ones. They show a small bit of edging and look fine to me, so dont risk trying to remove the old ones. Unless you think youll get a bob or two for them on e bay!

[coachmann]

Still no evidence of anyone having had a go at removing the inset numberplates, then?

Evidence ha ha.......

 

Prised out of the recess with the point of a craft knife.....

 

 

Recess filled with a piece of 5thou thick plastikard.....

 

 

Modelmaster plates glued in place and then lined out in orange......Full story....  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116060-coachmanns-4mm-loco-coach-wb/page-14 ....

 

Edited April 4, 2017 by coachmann

[gwrrob]

I've been reliably informed that the weathered GWR wartime black version will be available next week.

[Captain Kernow]

Evidence ha ha.......

 

Prised out of the recess with the point of a craft knife.....

 

WEB 1458 1.jpg

 

Recess filled with a piece of 5thou thick plastikard.....

 

WEB 1458 2.jpg

 

Modelmaster plates glued in place and then lined out in orange......Full story....  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116060-coachmanns-4mm-loco-coach-wb/page-14 ....

WEB 1458 8.jpg

At last, someone braver than me!

 

Well done, that man! I'm hoping that 247 plates will fit equally well over the resulting bit of black plasticard.

 

Did the original plate bend or pop out easily, Larry? Looks like they are just glued in?

[Captain Kernow]

I've had a replacement 14XX sent by Hattons in exchange for the original one that didn't run properly, and having tested it briefly, I'm satisfied that there is a half-decent chance that it might end up running in sufficiently well, to warrant keeping the original chassis. If it ends up being another pig in terms of running quality, the chassis will be binned and a replacement built from a kit.

[coachmann]

At last, someone braver than me!

 

Well done, that man! I'm hoping that 247 plates will fit equally well over the resulting bit of black plasticard.

 

Did the original plate bend or pop out easily, Larry? Looks like they are just glued in?

They popped out, or more accurately flew out (I still haven't found one of them). Didn't bend either. Good luck with your latest 14XX.

[spiket4]

Has anyone used a Gaugemaster combi controller with the Hattons 14xx yet?

And is it ok with the coreless motor.

 

Regards Mark

[kandc_au]

The Gaugemaster W I believe is the one to get.

[Ian Hargrave]

Has anyone used a Gaugemaster combi controller with the Hattons 14xx yet?

And is it ok with the coreless motor.

 

Regards Mark

 

Simple course of action.Give Gaugemaster a ring.

[rembrow]

Still no evidence of anyone having had a go at removing the inset numberplates, then?

 

Hi Tim

 

since I pm'd you I've now put Modelmaster cab plates on 3 14/58 locos, as my BR lined with topfeed 1444 arrived and I ordered an extra Class 58. On all, I didn't remove the old plates as I found they were flush enough for the new plates to fit over the top with the appearance of being flat to the cabside. As the old plates are etched, the adhesive needed to get into the surface of the fitted plate, so I used clear araldite, but only needed to use the smallest possible bead on the end of a cocktail stick, which I gently smeared over the existing plate until it covered sufficient of the area for adhesion. Here are photos, all 3 also have my plasticard made ashpans as well.

[aaron3820]

G'day all from down under,

 

A few days ago I took delivery of a pair of the 14xx locos, 1420 in GWR and 1450 in late BR green being the new arrivals. This pair compliment the early lined black 1470 which was purchased last year. I've been lucky in that my locos so far run quite well, although they do have the sloppy rods which have been discussed earlier. One major issue I've found on 1450 however is the top of the cab being warped near the roof gutter rail. Has anyone found this to be a problem on their locos?

 

In the next few weeks I'll be placing an order for replacement Comet chassis kits and associated wheels and gearbox for all 3 locos. Whilst they run ok at the moment I am concerned about the longevity of them.

[70E]

I took delivery of a long awaited #1444 a few weeks ago. I ran it in and lightly oiled it as per the instructions on a rolling road but it did not run at all well at slow speed making a strange noise from the motor as Well as lurching on a revolution. I contacted Hatton's and I asked for a replacement as well as for it to be test run before sending. To give them their due they replaced it promptly however they clearly didn't test run it in as requested as the second one did the same thing! So I asked for another replacement on the basis if they could test it and ensure it ran correctly at slow speed as it should do I would be very happy or if they couldn't to refund me. I had an email from Bryan earlier advising of a refund. So unfortunately it would seem they cannot provide one that runs correctly, very disappointing and I should have kept the modified Hornby version I had which I sold previously on eBay.

[w124bob]

I've had the Hattons/DJM 1470 for a few weeks now. I fitted the Zimo MX622N and got disappointing performance when running with factory default CV values. I then looked at the Zimo online manual:-

 

http://www.zimo.at/web2010/documents/MX-KleineDecoder_E.pdf

 

Page 17 recommends the following for "small coreless" motor: CV9=51 / CV56=133

 

I duly entered the CV values as recommended and performance was transformed for the better.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

Andy.

I now have a non sound Zimo decoder to install ,so apart from the 2 cv values above what other basic cv values did you use?

[Guest 7007GreatWestern]

I now have a non sound Zimo decoder to install ,so apart from the 2 cv values above what other basic cv values did you use?

 

As I recall those two adjustments alone were necessary for an improvement in the loco in question (1470). I then bought another one (1444) which ran well even without those adjustments!

 

If I changed anything else at all it will just have been standard stuff that has no particular bearing on smoothness of running (CV2/5/6 and maybe 57) as well as the loco Address.

 

A common problem I have with some Bachmann locos (especially Halls) is that they run very well at very low speed, but then start to run rough as they pick up towards mid speed. I usually find that reducing the Load Compensation (Back-EMF) using CV58 is helpful but I don't recall that being necessary for the 14xxs.