No Decorum Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 As usual, there's no little bit of paper with instructions on how to fit the extra brake rigging supplied. With no idea as to which way up the rigging should be, I had recourse to a convention which tool makers seem to follow, which is to put the marks from where the plastic is injected into the mould on the side of the part which is less visible. This puts the axle below the rigging, which seemed to fit well. The rigging is more easily fitted with the wheels removed, which led to the discovery that Bachmann has lubricated the bearings, which explains the free running. Curiously, the brake hangers were not very well fixed on the green S Ry version, which required superglue but on the crimson version, the rigging popped into place with no glue and no problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2015 OOOh - with the van standing on its wheels the rigging is below the axle on mine - means that the actuating rod aligns and can also be glued to the rigging Assumed that was right but am I wrong?Photo later..... Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
'CHARD Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Bachmann appear to have modelled the CCT body in the late condition after BR had sealed up the end doors and removed redundant handles etc. so blue is the only correct livery. If they are sensible (which they usually are) Bachmann will have made their moulds with interchangeable ends so they can produce earlier versions later. More concerning (at least to me) is that Bachmann's CCT has the same, relatively rare, combination of side and door planking represented on the HD/Wrenn/Dapol vans. Is this release of both PMV and downgraded CCTs, then? i.e. two body styles - a PMV correct for any livery, and the downgraded CCT suited to Blue only? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2015 Fitted the fiddly brake rigging on my blue and green ones last night First weathering wash too....and thanks to Bachmann for giving us blackened wheels, that's one less job to do... Phil Looking at post 109 above I think the brake rigging is below the axle ....isn't it? Heres mine fitted... Phil 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Market65 Posted October 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2015 Yes, that is how I did the rigging on my Parkside kit. And it certainly would appear to be that way in that photo in post 109. There is a drawing which appears in a Google search - which I have just conducted - and if accurate, it confirms the position of the rigging as being below the axles - as do the images! With regards, Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Decorum Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 OOOh - with the van standing on its wheels the rigging is below the axle on mine - means that the actuating rod aligns and can also be glued to the rigging Assumed that was right but am I wrong? Photo later..... Phil Ignorance is not bliss. I might have known I'd be caught out. Thank you for the correction Phil & Rob. Now to find out how super Superglue is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2015 Ignorance is not bliss. I might have known I'd be caught out. Thank you for the correction Phil & Rob. Now to find out how super Superglue is. Sorry! Let us know how it goes..... Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Decorum Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Sorry! Let us know how it goes..... Phil Please don't say sorry because what I have now is correct. Well, more nearly correct than before. The crimson one was fine (no superglue needed) and the glue on the green one parted, sometimes easily, sometimes with difficulty. It shows how poor I am at making joints with the stuff. Anyhow, they're back together the right way up and the liquid poly on the broken steps (ahem!) is setting. They did feel right going in the wrong way up because another puzzle presented itself when re-assembling: should the brake pipes go under or over the rigging? I've put the short one under and the long one over because if I put the latter under, it sticks down at an angle. Wrong again, going by your picture, Phil, but it'll stay that way. Mercifully, everything down there is black. I do wish that the great of this land would stop discussing with our guest how the Chinese are going to irradiate us at our own expense and ask him why Kader doesn't put a bit of paper in with CCTs to tell us how the brake rigging should be attached. Thank you again, gentlemen. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2015 Welcome - glad you are sorted What you think are brake pipes are in fact the linkages from the central brake cross shaft - actuates the brakes when brakes are applied. There must have been something else in the rigging that reversed the action as one pair of shoes has to be pulled and the other pushed for them to clasp the wheel . Kind regards Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Decorum Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Welcome - glad you are sorted What you think are brake pipes are in fact the linkages from the central brake cross shaft - actuates the brakes when brakes are applied. There must have been something else in the rigging that reversed the action as one pair of shoes has to be pulled and the other pushed for them to clasp the wheel . Kind regards Phil Duh! If I'd looked properly I should have realised that. Thank you again for the correction. I must buy her an "I'm with Stupid" T-shirt. I assume the separately fitted pipe above the linkages is the brake pipe and the pipe moulded onto the floor is a steam heat pipe. I assume the latter is just a through pipe as there is no passenger or guard's accommodation. Just thought I'd ask, even if my starting to ask is somewhat overdue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted October 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2015 Is this release of both PMV and downgraded CCTs, then? i.e. two body styles - a PMV correct for any livery, and the downgraded CCT suited to Blue only? That appears to be the case for these first releases. No doubt more variants will follow but for now, as a steam-era modeller, I'm hanging on to my two Dapol CCTs. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) Most of the brake rigging that can be seen in modelling terms can be seen on this BR built plywood version. https://flic.kr/p/6TvzTE P Edited October 21, 2015 by Porcy Mane 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted October 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) Welcome - glad you are sorted What you think are brake pipes are in fact the linkages from the central brake cross shaft - actuates the brakes when brakes are applied. There must have been something else in the rigging that reversed the action as one pair of shoes has to be pulled and the other pushed for them to clasp the wheel . Kind regards Phil Phil, There's a pivoted vertical bar that both yokes and pull-rod are attached to. The brakes on the two axles are synchronised by varying the positions at which the yokes and pull-rods are connected to the bars at either end of the vehicle. This is why one pull-rod can be seen to rise from the cross-shaft and the other to fall. These vertical bars are usually omitted from models which makes it difficult to fathom out how clasp brakes actually work. Hope this makes sense to you, it's my third attempt at a clear description and it's getting late! Anybody got a diagram or a clear prototype photo? Regards John Edited October 21, 2015 by Dunsignalling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 22, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2015 Many thanks John - thats clear to me Kind regards Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyh Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Hi, Not seen the blue one on here yet so here's mine that arrived yesterday. I'm no expert but looks pretty good to me! How different is this to the Hornby one? Here it is attached to the Hornby Van C for comparrison. Quite different when you see them side by side, and quite different shades of blue! Not sure which, if either (or maybe both), is correct? Mike 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernman46 Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I think the silver buffer shanks on the BY grate more than any blue colour difference ..................... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 23, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 23, 2015 Absolutely! out with the matt paint... Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted October 23, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 23, 2015 Hi, Not seen the blue one on here yet so here's mine that arrived yesterday. I'm no expert but looks pretty good to me! 003 (2).JPG Here it is attached to the Hornby Van C for comparrison. Quite different when you see them side by side, and quite different shades of blue! Not sure which, if either (or maybe both), is correct? 005.JPG Mike Where NPCCS is concerned, the lshade of blue was generally of no consequence, due to their filthy state you had all on telling whether they were green, blue or red. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad McCann Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 For EM modellers, these aren't quite the drop-in wheel change we've become accustomed to on recent wagons from this source but a few minutes work with a milling bit in a power tool gives acceptable clearance for Gibson wheelsets. You need to remove most of the web that connects the brake shoes either side of the wheel. It probably wouldn't hurt to skim a little from the brake shoes either but I'd consider that discretionary. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenny Emily Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Just bought a blue one today. A lovely model. I must be showing my age when the first thing I tried to do was open the doors - of course they won't, unlike my Hornby Dublo and Wrenn versions. I don't miss the massive metal hinges that allowed the older ones to open though! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogmatix Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Just received my triplet of green vans. They do look good, they run well, but...... of course, once again, Bachmann have ballsed up the NEM pocket positioning. Whilst they are at pretty much the correct height, they are too far in. Standard close coupling couplers will not reach each other. Using Hornby long-shanked Roco couplers works but leaves a buffer-to-buffer gap of 2-3mm (a scale 6-9"). Using one standard and one long Roco coupler is tricky, they will not connect on the track but can be fiddled together off-track by hand - there is just enough lengthwise play in the cams to allow this, and once back on the rails, the separation on curves is enough to prevent buffer lock (which is, after all, the whole point). Why the..., I mean, why on Earth can't Bachmann get it right? They are in the continental HO business, they get it right on their HO models, why can't they get it right on their OO models? Are they really that incompetent? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted October 26, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 26, 2015 How about using a Kadee no.18/19 instead between the vehicles.Thats what I'm planning. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classsix T Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Just received my triplet of green vans. They do look good, they run well, but...... of course, once again, Bachmann have ballsed up the NEM pocket positioning. Whilst they are at pretty much the correct height, they are too far in. Standard close coupling couplers will not reach each other. Using Hornby long-shanked Roco couplers works but leaves a buffer-to-buffer gap of 2-3mm (a scale 6-9"). Using one standard and one long Roco coupler is tricky, they will not connect on the track but can be fiddled together off-track by hand - there is just enough lengthwise play in the cams to allow this, and once back on the rails, the separation on curves is enough to prevent buffer lock (which is, after all, the whole point). Why the..., I mean, why on Earth can't Bachmann get it right? They are in the continental HO business, they get it right on their HO models, why can't they get it right on their OO models? Are they really that incompetent? MikeyH's pics above show the coupling loop proud of the buffers Dogmatix, so is there another issue with your...three!? All three? I'd like to see some piccies if poss. Most of my loops are usually shortened but I need adequate 2nd radius clearances and being a lwb 4 wheeler I'd like to know what I'm letting myself in for with these. (Honking geet "buckeye's" are not an option for me. They look worse on UK outline stock that never had them than equally unprototypical tension locks IMHO.) C6T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogmatix Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Kadees are no use at all at all for close coupling mechanisms because they do not form a rigid straight connection. This is needed to make the NEM pockets move outwards on the curves correctly and thus extend to avoid buffer lock. If you select your Kadees such that the buffers touch (or almost, but not quite, touch) then you're in trouble unless all your curves (and points) are of scale radius. Even layouts in which all visible parts have scale radii, there are often tighter curves and points in fiddle yards. This is why close coupling mechanics were invented well over thirty years ago, but are only recently hesitantly - and mostly incorrectly implemented and well misunderstood - finding use in the UK. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted October 26, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 26, 2015 Now do I buy a blue one, or do I wait and hope they produce a weathered blue one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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