Kirkby Luneside (Original): End of the line....

[Physicsman]

Thanks for all the positive comments.

 

Andy - I think I could do with a few of those slaves you referred to from Hadrian's time! 

 

Chris - I think I'll enjoy building the bridge sections of the aqueduct, but the real toil will come when I have to build walls for the fields - and they'll have to be built on the spot. 

          

           The clay is pretty stable but bits broke off when I was chopping them with a craft knife. Polly's suggestion of adding colour to the PVA is a good one. I think I will paint the 

           aqueduct sections using a brush, but an airbrush may become a necessity for the Fell walling (and be easier to use when painting in situ).

 

Chip - glad you like the pics. I'm out for a huge curry tonight but I should get a lot more done tomorrow. We'll see!

 

Jeff

[Andrew P]

You can't beat a good curry to clear your BRAIN OUT,   hahhahaaheeeee

 

Bodgit and Dodge it,       down wind :no: :no: :no:

[Mythocentric]

Someone mentioned using cat litter for stone walling a while back, but did you know it also makes great mud? This tip came from Allan Downes, (you can also ask him here on rmweb), photo’s here:

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10970&forum_id=14

Ideal for river beds, around gates used by farm animals or anywhere mud would build up. For instance, hollows in a river bank or field where standing water after rain dries away. It’s an easy technique as Allan explains in his posts and very effective!

 

Bill

[robmcg]

Cheers Rob. No problem with the duplication as I hadn't read the "other" version.

 

I agree with you about the Patriot model. I've a Bachmann "Home Guard" and will need another for my fleet at some stage.

 

Jeff

 

It appears that there will be no shortage of locomotives to sweep past that unremarked but impressive structure Physicsman's Wall, a large number of Stanier and Gresley cross-country carriage rakes will be needed. 

 

I have now bought a total of four engines of the Patriot and Jubilee types, all TMC weathered, and wonder how often these engines worked over the S&C unaided and how often they were banked by presumably 4MT tank engines or Standard 4-6-0s. I imagine eight or nine carriages was the limit unaided, and/or maybe 300 tons goods,  must have been spectacular in typically wind-rain-sun type weather...

[Scott B]

I feel a bit like a school boy questioning Shakespeare but I will ask anyway.

 

Would you be better off sticking the stones to a flexible bottom layer so that when you come to apply the wall to the scenery you can mould the wall into the contours?

 

"Lurking upstart can't be a Lune after 1 post"  Lune

 

John

 

That wall is looking pretty damn good Jeff, and despite your predicted man hours of building they will look top notch I am sure.

Re Johns comment, I sort of agree here, but surely the flexible base would actually need to be moulded to the contour first and its profile held whilst the stones are then glued on (at least the first two layers at any rate) ?

I cannot see you bending a wall with that amount of glue used in its construction now matter how flexible the base may be, surely if you try to bend a glued and dried wall it is going to snap rather than bend ?

 

Also agree about the painting, if the das could be dyed first it is going to help no end.

 

Keep at it.

 

Scott

[robmcg]

Cheers Jason. I'm pleased with the result and a bit relieved that it actually looks half decent!

 

Jeff

 

I am certain that rock-building is in fact an art, and a relaxing one at that. 

 

As to the definition of steam age 'links' as descriptions of engines and operations, I always have understood the terms 1st link, 2nd link and so forth to represent groups of locomotives AND the crews assigned to them. Top link or first link being usually the fastest or most important work, in passenger duty at least, 2nd link might include fast trains too, also fast goods especially on the East Coast Main Lines,  and going down to local passenger, freight, shunting, maintenance trains and so on, also a 'spare link' of drivers who for one reason or another like health, disposition, fitness, might not always be up to the most skilled and or arduous work.

 

To complicate this, many drivers could and did move between links, as when being a 'passed' fireman, or driver, able to 'fill in' for absentees, breakdowns and so forth. Cleaners were 'passed' to be able to fire engines, sometimes even important trains, depending on skills and men available. This is largely how men learned their jobs.  Sometimes drivers had to endure unskilled firemen and vice versa, very trying work sometimes.

 

A shedmaster's job was often complex, especially on summer Saturdays!

 

The term link also refers, more literally, to a diagram of engine usage and scheduled work for engines, and crew. Perhaps I should have stated this first, but I am opening a new A2 model so my brain has gone funny...

Edited May 15, 2013 by robmcg

[emt_911]

As usual, the Lunester Knowledgebase has provided me with some more education.

 

Duncan - Learning Lunester

[uax6]

Jeff,

 

I must say that I have used the Craftmanship button twice for your wall, it is looking very good, although, looking back at the photo of the real thing, the 13th stone on the second course, and the 23rd on the fourth course are the wrong size and shape....

 

Re colouring the stones, would it be possible to mix the colour into the clay before you roll it out? Ok you'll need your rubber gloves (or you'll never get the paint off your hands!) and several pots to mix/store it in. I'm sure this would make it easier in the long run. Then you will not need to colour the pva.

 

I agree with the comments above that you cannot use a flexi-base with so much glue, contored walls will have to be built in situ.

 

I can't wait to see the all the walls built now, as they are going to look the muts nuts!

 

(Are you going to force the perspective again by reducing the size of the stones and heights of the walls as you get further up Lunefell?)

 

Andy g

[Physicsman]

Morning Andy.

 

I've already made a large batch of DAS strips so I'll use them in the next bit of the work before I think about colouring. I'm quite happy to paint the structures with a brush - a bit of mindless weathering is quite relaxing here! Besides, the wall colour is fairly light anyway with only light greys needed - and a bit of black highlighting every so often.

 

As for perspective - yes, I'll give that a go when I build up the hill. I can judge the appearance as I progress. 

 

I have to say that I'm tempted to have a go at one of the hill walls very shortly - to see how it turns out. A few hours of fun there, I think!

 

Cup of tea then time to build a wall...or two...

 

Jeff

[uax6]

Cup o'tea sounds a good plan, and I've remembered all the bits I need to make one today!

 

I'm guessing that the weathering will be a lot of shades of greens for litchen?

 

Andy g

[Physicsman]

That wall is looking pretty damn good Jeff, and despite your predicted man hours of building they will look top notch I am sure.

Re Johns comment, I sort of agree here, but surely the flexible base would actually need to be moulded to the contour first and its profile held whilst the stones are then glued on (at least the first two layers at any rate) ?

I cannot see you bending a wall with that amount of glue used in its construction now matter how flexible the base may be, surely if you try to bend a glued and dried wall it is going to snap rather than bend ?

 

Also agree about the painting, if the das could be dyed first it is going to help no end.

 

Keep at it.

 

Scott

 

Cheers Scott, good to hear from you. I've seen you lurking about - I hope KL is providing some measure of entertainment!

 

You are correct about the rigidity of the wall. A remarkably stiff structure - and probably quite brittle - which could never be bent. Like many things I've encountered in this project, the way forward often involves a bit of experimentation - which makes things interesting. I'm going to do some more work on the bridge sections of the aqueduct, including the drainage channel, and see how it works out.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Cup o'tea sounds a good plan, and I've remembered all the bits I need to make one today!

 

I'm guessing that the weathering will be a lot of shades of greens for litchen?

 

Andy g

 

That is an interesting point in as much as lichens tend to prefer north-facing (hence out of the sun) environments. The walls on the fell side, facing towards the operating well, are north facing - so a bit of green and a smidgeon of vegetation will be added once the thing has its base coat.

 

I've plenty of photos for reference but the great thing is this. While the general structure of S&C walling is similar across the region, do two walls are ever the same - giving "carte blanche" to whatever you fancy doing. Walls were generally well-maintained. However, the technique certainly lends itself to a ramshackle collapsed stone shelter or two on the hilltops.

 

Jeff

[Jason T]

I wonder if using Copydex rather than PVA for the sections you need to be flexy would be the solution, as the latex in it does allow some movement?

[Physicsman]

I wonder if using Copydex rather than PVA for the sections you need to be flexy would be the solution, as the latex in it does allow some movement?

 

Jason - you are the world Copydex expert, so it'd probably work!

 

However - I don't need any sections to be flexible. The bits for the bridge tops are being built on plastikard in the kitchen for convenience. The sections outside - when I get there - will just go straight onto the hill.

 

Quite a complicated corner is this. I still need to build and fit cutting rock-faces, paint them, build some more wing walls (main bridge), paint the bridges, fit them in place, build the surround hills and then I can build the hill walling. A bit of ballasting in the cutting will also need to be chucked in. 

 

Hopefully, by Christmas.... 

 

Jeff

[Donw]

The walling looks pretty good. I cannot see bits breaking off would be a problem it happens with real stone. The broken bits good be used as there will be small stones in any wall. I expect experts could recognise the builder of a wall by details of their style. At least building your own no two bits of wall will be the same. When building Stone walls you need to 'get your eye in' Marion is good at that.

Not being at all critical but the walls tend to narrow towards the top so use the wider pieces at the bottom and slightly narrow pieces at the top. It is very slight but does show.

Don

[Rowsley17D]

Hi Jeff, I have been Googling ( they can't touch you for it) for air-dried clay to see if a colour other than white is available. There's a company called Craftmill who sell Scola air-drying clay in grey at £3.29/kg or 4.5kg for £7.97. Not sure about shipping costs but seems cheaper than DAS which the same site sells at £5.49/kg. May save you some painting and £££s. Just a thought.

[Physicsman]

Hi Jeff, I have been Googling ( they can't touch you for it) for air-dried clay to see if a colour other than white is available. There's a company called Craftmill who sell Scola air-drying clay in grey at £3.29/kg or 4.5kg for £7.97. Not sure about shipping costs but seems cheaper than DAS which the same site sells at £5.49/kg. May save you some painting and £££s. Just a thought.

 

I'll have a look at this Jonathan. I bought a 1kg packet of DAS and will need to get some more shortly. Thanks for the info - the 4.5kg cost seems incredibly cheap!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Hi Jeff, I have been Googling ( they can't touch you for it) for air-dried clay to see if a colour other than white is available. There's a company called Craftmill who sell Scola air-drying clay in grey at £3.29/kg or 4.5kg for £7.97. Not sure about shipping costs but seems cheaper than DAS which the same site sells at £5.49/kg. May save you some painting and £££s. Just a thought.

 

Right - just looked at this. bit of a no-brainer. You can even buy 12kg for £12!! Stone (grey) colour will help. I'll order some right away! 

 

Good man!

 

Jeff

[Rowsley17D]

Right - just looked at this. bit of a no-brainer. You can even buy 12kg for £12!! Stone (grey) colour will help. I'll order some right away! 

 

Good man!

 

Jeff

 

Happy to help. I hope the quality is up to DAS standard.

[The Stationmaster]

 

A shedmaster's job was often complex, especially on summer Saturdays!

 

Speaking as a former 'shedmaster' (in reality the modern terminological equivalent thereof) at three different depots during my BR career - with over 200 footplatemen at one of them - and at one time having charge of loco and traincrew diagramming & traincrew rostering in a privatised train operating company, I can quite agree with you on that although in my experience Bank Holiday weekends tended to be much worse.

 

Now back to walls and Jeff are you intending to use any of your stone-laying as Masters for mould making?

Edited May 16, 2013 by The Stationmaster

[Physicsman]

Speaking as a former 'shedmaster' (in reality the modern terminological equivalent thereof) at three different depots during my BR career - with over 200 footplatemen at one of them - and at one time having charge of loco and traincrew diagramming & traincrew rostering in a privatised train operating company, I can quite agree with you on that although in my experience Bank Holiday weekends tended to be much worse.

 

Now back to walls and Jeff are you intending to use any of your stone-laying as Masters for mould making?

 

Hi Mike.

 

No, all the walls will be "bespoke"!! The problem is that the circumstances of the wall in every position are different. The golden rule is to keep the layers of stone in the wall horizontal, no matter whether the wall goes up or down. To achieve this I'll have to tailor the wall structure according to the precise position I'm building it.

 

This makes for a lot more work but, to be honest, the results are so encouraging that I'm prepared to take on the challenge! Yes, I'm crazy - but you knew that anyway!!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

I've built another section of the aqueduct walling - the partner for the main bridge. I added a grey mix to the PVA. The results are quite effective...

 

 

Here are the 2 sections in approximately the correct separation for the aqueduct. Yesterday's construct peeled off the plastikard and can be moved around as a very rigid object!

 

 

 

Jeff

[emt_911]

Jeff

 

I'm seriously impressed. Mind you, you may have to do other jobs between walls just to preserve what sanity you have left.

 

Duncan

[Rowsley17D]

Just had a thought Jeff (what? another one) if you mix varying amounts of white DAS with the grey Scola stuff then you'll get stone strips in different shades of grey, may save a bit on painting.

[Andrew P]

Hi Jeff, just had a read through and I can confirm that YOU DO NEED TO SEE A SHRINK, hhaaaa

 

Great walls but you have a LOT more patience than me.

 

Bodgit.