Graham108

When I was having problems with Eckon signals some time ago I was advised to have a resistor for each bulb, rather than one connected to the 'common' wire.

...; the future's so bright, I gotta wear shades (Timbuk 3)

These any good?

9 grand for what is essentially some Hornby track and a few Metcalfe buildings - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225672495175?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20221115143056%26meid%3Da621ed05f4fc4605a168df5476bbc9cb%26pid%3D101612%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D225672495175%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DHornby&_trksid=p4375194.c101612.m4236&_trkparms=parentrq%3Ac5e865311890acf3c18b10beffff58ca|pageci%3Ad98b85d1-3394-11ee-b43a-76df4741255e|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage

What you say is entirely correct - no power to the track nothing on a loco would work. But if you operate using DCC why would you have sections of track without power?

Or Brian Lambert's excellent web site - https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical_Page_1.html

Surely with DCC this concept is irrelevant

@McC @AccurascaleReceived yesterday - don't know if my earlier post expedited matters but thanks Accurascale. Still waiting for an answer to a question I posted earlier regarding cab lighting on a DC version - Yes or No? If Yes then how do I make it work please?

As a novice to all the electrical stuff I'd say the layout in your first photo is extremely ambitious. If I was you I'd start off with a simple oval of track with a single point - work out the wiring for the track & the point. Then add a 2nd point to make a loop. And only when you've got it all working and able to run trains should you then expand to something a bit more complex.

My order number for 37043 is 18986 from June 2021 - not heard anything yet (but I'm not in any hurry anyway so this isn't a complaint!)

From the picture it looks like you don't have a power feed going to the switch (middle contact) - only the 2 wires going to the point motor. The wire that looks like it's connected to the track needs to be connected to the other polarity on the controller.It looks like you have correctly installed insulated joiners on the track from the frog but the controller should be connected to the track BEFORE the frog; e.g. at the bottom of the photo before the tie-bar.

You're sidings won't work regardless of success in identifying the source of your shirt circuit

I noticed these are numbered 9001 - 9010. Does anybody know how many were produced and if the Accurascale numbers are correct?

Is that what's known as 'heavily weathered'?

Is that easy to do - does it just pull down? Do these wagons ever run in tandem with the KUA's?

Surely Great Britain in the post-Beeching era wins the award

@AccurascaleIf the DC versions have interior lights how do I get mine (37051/37023) to work please?

Did you have to do anything to get the interior lights working? I don't appear to have this function on mine - and all the 6 switches are on

Today's offer from Rails:

There's now't as queer as folk

That's one hell of a coincidence! Earlier today I was reading through an old copy of Model Rail from December 2007 and there's an article on Class 37's with reference to the Class 38 project - when it was 'shelved indefinitely' it gave rise to Class 37/4's, 37/5's, 37/7's and 37/9's being developed

But I bet you don't have to go out and lick road wit' tongue

You can probably get some idea of colour from the location of the building. Then identify what type of stone was used in the area. Most stone was mined from a local quarry.

A simple Google search - https://www.google.com/search?q=model+telegraph+poles&rlz=1C1CHBF_enGB1040GB1040&oq=model+telegraph+poles&aqs=chrome..69i57.4414j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8