Butler Henderson

f0 - headlights (directional) f1 - interior lights f2 - tail lights (directional, requires f0 on) f3 - step lights f4 - search lights (directional, requires f0 on)

Well that was a surprise. Postie hammering on door this morning with a Rapido Trains labelled box sent Tracked 24. Replacement 1501 in it which is intact, no paint missing and runs smoothly.

If it's second hand I would be suspecting the motor is damaged in some way.

Mine has gone back to Rapido - they reckon a 2-3 weeks turn round. No issues with it being bought not directly from them and the seller had sold out. Would recommend anyone with one that is faulty in some respect does the same as I would expect it either gets repaired or replaced by one that hopefully is fully checked before it gets sent, Aside from the missing paint issues, having said it was a good runner once slowed to almost a crawl it did wobble so noted that as well, Nothing to lose in doing so as far I can see - they send a Tracked 48 label for the return and having posted mine yesterday luchtime and so far it has got to the Meday Mail Centre having first had a Trans Pennine journey to the North West superhub.

This recall has been made Shimano Recalls Cranksets for Bicycles Due to Crash Hazard https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2023/Shimano-Recalls-Cranksets-for-Bicycles-Due-to-Crash-Hazard produced before July 2019 for a possible bonding separation issue. Affects Ultegra 6800 and 8000 series, and Dura Ace 9000 and 9100 series: applicable model numbers are ULTEGRA FC-6800, FC-R8000, DURA-ACE FC-9000, FC-R9100 and FC-R9100-P. Europe: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/info...owtech-road-cranksets-inspection-program.html A production code is stamped on the inside of the crank arm near the bottom of the arm. The affected models are pre-July 2019 production and have one of the following two-letter production codes on back side of the crank arm where the pedals are attached: KF, KG, KH, KI, KJ, KK, KL, LA, LB, LC, LD, LE, LF, LG, LH, LI, LJ, LK, LL, MA, MB, MC, MD, ME, MF, MG, MH, MI, MJ, MK, ML, NA, NB, NC, ND, NE, NF, NG, NH, NI, NJ, NK, NL, OA, OB, OC, OD, OE, OF, OG, OH, OI, OJ, OK, OL, PA, PB, PC, PD, PE, PF, PG, PH, PI, PJ, PK, PL, QA, QB, QC, QD, QE, QF, QG, QH, QI, QJ, QK, QL, RA, RB, RC, RD, RE, and RF.

What decoder type is needed doesn't seem to be stated anywhere.

Cheapest is the Lais 860019 from Digitains https://www.digitrains.co.uk/860019.html The same decoder without the shrinkwrap is sold as the Dapol Imperium 1 at far higher prices.

He actually could not speak german and learnt the german versions of his songs by the sound of the sung words.

The K1 didn't sell well as Hornby flooded the market with them; far too many made in too short a time. To do 2005 / 62005 correctly I understand a tooling tweak would,be needed but even so I would think apple green 2005s would quickly sell - assuming of course Hornby get the shade of green right. Maybe without SK at the helm.

Whose are the nameplates?

By the usual place I took the reference to be China rather than a brand specific. Would be interested if anyone has/had a poor running or otherwise faulty example that they bought from Derails as they are one of few who do test run loco before despatch and have become my default source for locos subject to availability - the preserved 1501 unfortunately being marked as sold out when I looked.

Looking at the chimney on mine it does look like needing to be returned unless it's easy to fit a replacement as the coating that is applied extends the width. Also noticed paint missing on a buffer shank

Bachmann 3 pole motors are normally pretty quite. If it's new get it changed, if it's second hand then maybe it's not the motor but the whole mechanism in need of lubrication where appropriate.

My 1501 seems to a perfect runner - its presently ambling around a Unitrack oval on the floor, but there is a bit missing of the copper paint on the top of the chimney which given how well it is running I would be reluctant to return for. Out with the paintbrush then - can @RapidoCorbs advise if their is a specific paint match?

Reading around the web 47-100 ohm is the value of resistors which seem to work as dummy loads so maybe Lais meant 56 not 560. In all cases there is a warning to remove the resistor once programmed. There is a suggestion on the Hornby forum of using a reed switch to isolate the resistor but given how easilly a knock causes the Hornby 4 wheelers to light that seems a bit risky to me.

A NEM362 plastic shanked coupling with a bit of care can be trimmed to fit a NEM363 mount. Use the supplied 363 coupling as a template for cutting/trimming the 362

The resistor therefore was not connected so had no effect in acting a dummy load - the L1 and L2 conncections need linking together.

Did you short out the missing L1 and L2 components as the motor connections are otherwise isolated from the decoder?

I had to raise one car slightly to get the connector to align properly on mine, otherwise the lower pins went in the upper socket. Maybe that is what has happened. Try reconnecting it on a shelf it a height where you can clearly see the connector and if neccessary raise one car slightly as needed with card under the wheels.

Setting the function CVs (49 to 55) to 44 turns on the dimming function. The value of that dimming is set in CV64, the default is 6 whch certainly flickers but 30 IME on another model seemed appropraite

Just to cover ebay and Paypal fees seller would need to ask for at least £154.35. Obviously how much more than that is reasonable would down to a purchaser unless its someone who must have regardless of the cost.

Model Railways Direct have the Provincial one on offer at £162.47 https://modelrailwaysdirect.co.uk/special-offers.html They also did have the WY Metro one at that price but have sold out although now claiming more stock in 14-21 days. I did get one of the WY Metro ones from them before they sold out. Have set the interior lights comparable to the rear cab lights.CV53=44 and CV64=30 using an overpriced Dapol Imperium 2 which is a Lais 860015 minus its stay alive connections and heat shrink - Digitrains are sold out of the Lais decoder but there is an ebay seller https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/936366319

Always think the best model preserved railways even if fictuious are those with models of actually preseved working locos etc on them. Nothing worse IMO as watching such a layout and see a Claughton for example.

Very simple - preserved locos do wander between lines even if just for a gala so one of models of a preserved loco would be wholly appropriate.

The mtor connectors are connected to the non-existant L1 and L2 . The other side of L1 and L2 look to be direct to the 21 pin plug